New corals! Help please!

[lubashmike]

Hello everyone from Denver!
New to salt water and i am about to give up.
Tank is 4 weeks old, was cycling good for few weeks then added 2 clowns. Week later, i went to the expo in Denver found a few cool corals and some free snails. Turns out some of the snails were dead so created an ammonia spike and I’ve been chasing my tail for a week and all the corals i got at the expo seem to be shriveling up

I have my light at 20% for 6 hours a day to help them acclimate.

Any advise on how to save the corals??
What parameters do i need to check?
I do check ammonia/ph/nitrates/alk

 

[Fish Fan]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

#WelcometoR2R

Im sorry you're having some trouble with your new tank. In my experience, snails die frequently enough, and I've never had them create an ammonia spike, so my suspicion is maybe this tank wasn't fully nitrogen cycled before adding livestock

Water changes can help reduce the ammonia. Don't add ammonia detoxifying chemicals like SeaChem Prime, they do not work as advertised.

Ensure that you have good test kits so that your testing numbers are reliable.

#reefsquad may be able to offer more help

Good luck!

 

[Fish Styx]

Hi, and welcome. I'm sorry that you are experiencing difficulty, but you are moving way too fast.

Your tank is only a month old and is nowhere near old enough to support coral, especially being a new reefer. I'm not trying to belittle or chastise you. Trust me, this is a common mistake made by many a reefer, new and old.

I'm doubtful your cycle was complete before adding the clowns, and you should never cycle a tank with live animals. It is cruel and unnecessary. Now that that is out of the way...

You need to ensure stability. What are you using to measure your nutrients, and give us the recent data, please?

What have your cal/mag/alk/ ph/ salinity been at, and what are you using to measure?

What make and model of light are you using?

How large is your tank?

How are you making your SW and maintianing a consistent level?

What corals did you add? Please provide pictures under white lighting.

More information is needed in order to help formulate a strategy here. Please help us to help you.

 

[TheNative192]

Hello everyone from Denver!
New to salt water and i am about to give up.
Tank is 4 weeks old, was cycling good for few weeks then added 2 clowns. Week later, i went to the expo in Denver found a few cool corals and some free snails. Turns out some of the snails were dead so created an ammonia spike and I’ve been chasing my tail for a week and all the corals i got at the expo seem to be shriveling up

I have my light at 20% for 6 hours a day to help them acclimate.

Any advise on how to save the corals??
What parameters do i need to check?
I do check ammonia/ph/nitrates/alk

Need to know what type of corals you have.

Corals will not die from Ammonia, fish will.

The corals likely do not like some other parameter like 20% light is way too low. I would not acclimate them depending on the type of coral. Check Nitrates and Phosphates, (if its stony corals like SPS and LPS then Alk, Calcium, & Magnesium) if you know the names that helps.

My guess is you have way too little light. What light are you using.

 

[lubashmike]

Hi, and welcome. I'm sorry that you are experiencing difficulty, but you are moving way too fast.

Your tank is only a month old and is nowhere near old enough to support coral, especially being a new reefer. I'm not trying to belittle or chastise you. Trust me, this is a common mistake made by many a reefer, new and old.

I'm doubtful your cycle was complete before adding the clowns, and you should never cycle a tank with live animals. It is cruel and unnecessary. Now that that is out of the way...

You need to ensure stability. What are you using to measure your nutrients, and give us the recent data, please?

What have your cal/mag/alk/ ph/ salinity been at, and what are you using to measure?

What make and model of light are you using?

How large is your tank?

How are you making your SW and maintianing a consistent level?

What corals did you add? Please provide pictures under white lighting.

More information is needed in order to help formulate a strategy here. Please help us to help you.

Hello! Thank you for the help!
I don’t know what i added except the pulsing xenias that are now not pulsing and the Kenya trees that are falling over the rest are just cool things i saw at the show

My perimeters are as follows all checked with Hanna checkers
Ph- 7.8
Salt-1.024
Temp 80.6
Calcium- 451
Alk- 20.0
Phosphate- .18
Ammonia 1.27( which is down from 1.36 yesterday)
NitRATES- 75 (which is up from 42 yesterday)
Copper - .1

It is a Red Sea 200 so 43 display and 10 sump
Reef mat collecting waste and protein skimmer seems to be doing good cup fills every 2 days and is a dark tan
Red Sea 115 i have it set to 20% for 6 hours a day right now

Everything looks sad and i truly don’t know what to do.
I got my all for reef today but i dont know if adding that is going to help
I did add 5 drops of iodine the past 3 days

 

[lubashmike]

@

Need to know what type of corals you have.

Corals will not die from Ammonia, fish will.

The corals likely do not like some other parameter like 20% light is way too low. I would not acclimate them depending on the type of coral. Check Nitrates and Phosphates, (if its stony corals like SPS and LPS then Alk, Calcium, & Magnesium) if you know the names that helps.

My guess is you have way too little light. What light are you using.

what should the light be set to? I don’t have a par sensor and was reading that too much is toxic so wanted to start low but they seem to be fading fast!

 

[lubashmike]

Hi, and welcome. I'm sorry that you are experiencing difficulty, but you are moving way too fast.

Your tank is only a month old and is nowhere near old enough to support coral, especially being a new reefer. I'm not trying to belittle or chastise you. Trust me, this is a common mistake made by many a reefer, new and old.

I'm doubtful your cycle was complete before adding the clowns, and you should never cycle a tank with live animals. It is cruel and unnecessary. Now that that is out of the way...

You need to ensure stability. What are you using to measure your nutrients, and give us the recent data, please?

What have your cal/mag/alk/ ph/ salinity been at, and what are you using to measure?

What make and model of light are you using?

How large is your tank?

How are you making your SW and maintianing a consistent level?

What corals did you add? Please provide pictures under white lighting.

More information is needed in order to help formulate a strategy here. Please help us to help you.

I definitely appreciate the feedback and agree it is cruel! I did 2 rounds of liquid ammonia and turbo 900 and it was at .17 when adding the clowns maybe i shouldn’t listen to petco on that being low enough but they said since i used the agro sand that bacteria should be good. I 100% rushed it now just need to hope it’s salvageable before it’s too late and i realize that fish tanks are not my thing and stick with a garden

 

[Matthew31]

We all learn from mistakes. Even to this day I make mistakes (I haven’t been doing it for decades but close to a decade lol)
I still get pumped for things I’ve been on the hunt for. For example, yellow tail tamarin. I tried this fish 6 times (nobody cancel me for this) but I finally got one to live. The point of this comment is to hopefully convey that even “seasoned” reefers make mistakes and rush things so you aren’t alone and I hope you don’t give up!!

As far as coals go, I have terrible luck with softies. I cannot keep a mushroom alive but I can keep other things way more easily.

I was looking at some of your parameters and I personally think p04 .18 is too high and nitrate is also high at 75ppm. Is your alk in dkh?
There is a good video Lou ekus gives talking about po4 specifically and his thoughts as to why po4 is better around .1ppm.

What I like to do is get my po4 to a “acceptable level .04-.1. And my nitrate to 10-20.

When I get them to typical levels a lot of the community has the most success with their tank, I watch my tank closely. I still monitor my tank parameters but I let the corals tell me when they are happy. I think all tanks run differently.

Why would there be copper in the tank? Are you having massive invert deaths?
There being any heavy metal in the tank would cause both corals and inverts to die. Both extremely sensitive to heavy metal.

A way to clean it out is using purigen. And then figure out why there is metal in your tank.

Whenever I send in icp tests there aren’t ever any heavy metals in my tank.

With your ammonia you can use something called aqua vitro seed or fritz turbo start. I think those 2 products say it makes the water safe for fish immediately. Don’t quote me on that but I think that’s the way they market their product.

I’m curious as to what type of light you’re using and how big of a tank you have.

Here is a pic of my old tank.

 

[Marine Betta]

Hi, and welcome. I'm sorry that you are experiencing difficulty, but you are moving way too fast.

Your tank is only a month old and is nowhere near old enough to support coral, especially being a new reefer. I'm not trying to belittle or chastise you. Trust me, this is a common mistake made by many a reefer, new and old.

I'm doubtful your cycle was complete before adding the clowns, and you should never cycle a tank with live animals. It is cruel and unnecessary. Now that that is out of the way...

You need to ensure stability. What are you using to measure your nutrients, and give us the recent data, please?

What have your cal/mag/alk/ ph/ salinity been at, and what are you using to measure?

What make and model of light are you using?

How large is your tank?

How are you making your SW and maintianing a consistent level?

What corals did you add? Please provide pictures under white lighting.

More information is needed in order to help formulate a strategy here. Please help us to help you.

Hello! Thank you for the help!
I don’t know what i added except the pulsing xenias that are now not pulsing and the Kenya trees that are falling over the rest are just cool things i saw at the show

My perimeters are as follows all checked with Hanna checkers
Ph- 7.8
Salt-1.024
Temp 80.6
Calcium- 451
Alk- 20.0
Phosphate- .18
Ammonia 1.27( which is down from 1.36 yesterday)
NitRATES- 75 (which is up from 42 yesterday)
Copper - .1

It is a Red Sea 200 so 43 display and 10 sump
Reef mat collecting waste and protein skimmer seems to be doing good cup fills every 2 days and is a dark tan
Red Sea 115 i have it set to 20% for 6 hours a day right now

Everything looks sad and i truly don’t know what to do.
I got my all for reef today but i dont know if adding that is going to help
I did add 5 drops of iodine the past 3 days

Sorry to hear about your troubles. We’ve all rushed into something at some point in this hobby. I’m certainly guilty of impulse purchases on occasion. It looks like most of your corals are softies (mostly zoas and palys). These are beginner friendly. The trumpet coral is also a good LPS coral for beginners. However, what appears to be a pocillopora or birdsnest is not. Most sps need extremely stable and mature tanks with high light and flow. Some, like leptos and pavonas are as hardy as most LPS. With that being said, your parameters are out of wack.

pH should be 8.2
Salinity isn’t that low but 1.025 to 1.026 is better.
Calcium is fine.
Is that alkalinity 20 dKh or ppm? If it’s dKh it’s dangerously high and dangerously low if it’s ppm.
What is your magnesium level? This is arguably the most important between alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. What are you using to dose these three elements?
Nitrates and phosphates are high (especially nitrates). It seems as if the tank wasn’t fully cycled or the nitrifying bacteria couldn’t keep up with sudden increase in bioload.

I’d do small water changes over the next couple of days. This should gradually adjust the parameters to where they should be. Do not try to bring everything to their proper levels at once. You really need to find the source of that copper. Which would explain your snail die off. Is there a reason why you believed that there were elevated levels of copper in the water? Use a polyfilter, cuprisorb, or a combination of thereof to get rid of it as soon as possible and find the source.

That’s too little light. I don’t have those, but I believe Red Sea lights have an acclimation function that gradually ramps up the power. As long as you acclimate them to the light, those corals can handle it. Most people that I know who have red seas have them at 100% blue and 25-30% white. Maybe someone with more knowledge on these lights can chime in.

 

[lubashmike]

We all learn from mistakes. Even to this day I make mistakes (I haven’t been doing it for decades but close to a decade lol)
I still get pumped for things I’ve been on the hunt for. For example, yellow tail tamarin. I tried this fish 6 times (nobody cancel me for this) but I finally got one to live. The point of this comment is to hopefully convey that even “seasoned” reefers make mistakes and rush things so you aren’t alone and I hope you don’t give up!!

As far as coals go, I have terrible luck with softies. I cannot keep a mushroom alive but I can keep other things way more easily.

I was looking at some of your parameters and I personally think p04 .18 is too high and nitrate is also high at 75ppm. Is your alk in dkh?
There is a good video Lou ekus gives talking about po4 specifically and his thoughts as to why po4 is better around .1ppm.

What I like to do is get my po4 to a “acceptable level .04-.1. And my nitrate to 10-20.

When I get them to typical levels a lot of the community has the most success with their tank, I watch my tank closely. I still monitor my tank parameters but I let the corals tell me when they are happy. I think all tanks run differently.

Why would there be copper in the tank? Are you having massive invert deaths?
There being any heavy metal in the tank would cause both corals and inverts to die. Both extremely sensitive to heavy metal.

A way to clean it out is using purigen. And then figure out why there is metal in your tank.

Whenever I send in icp tests there aren’t ever any heavy metals in my tank.

With your ammonia you can use something called aqua vitro seed or fritz turbo start. I think those 2 products say it makes the water safe for fish immediately. Don’t quote me on that but I think that’s the way they market their product.

I’m curious as to what type of light you’re using and how big of a tank you have.

Here is a pic of my old tank.

Thank you for the advise!
My nitrates have been climbing all week and tomorrow i was going to do a 50% water change to remove them. Should i not do that big? I have the water in a can heating up currently

I honestly don’t know i only use rodi water

My alk is dkh. How do i lower it?

 

[lubashmike]

Sorry to hear about your troubles. We’ve all rushed into something at some point in this hobby. I’m certainly guilty of impulse purchases on occasion. It looks like most of your corals are softies (mostly zoas and palys). These are beginner friendly. The trumpet coral is also a good LPS coral for beginners. However, what appears to be a pocillopora or birdsnest is not. Most sps need extremely stable and mature tanks with high light and flow. Some, like leptos and pavonas are as hardy as most LPS. With that being said, your parameters are out of wack.

pH should be 8.2
Salinity isn’t that low but 1.025 to 1.026 is better.
Calcium is fine.
Is that alkalinity 20 dKh or ppm? If it’s dKh it’s dangerously high and dangerously low if it’s ppm.
What is your magnesium level? This is arguably the most important between alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. What are you using to dose these three elements?
Nitrates and phosphates are high (especially nitrates). It seems as if the tank wasn’t fully cycled or the nitrifying bacteria couldn’t keep up with sudden increase in bioload.

I’d do small water changes over the next couple of days. This should gradually adjust the parameters to where they should be. Do not try to bring everything to their proper levels at once. You really need to find the source of that copper. Which would explain your snail die off. Is there a reason why you believed that there were elevated levels of copper in the water? Use a polyfilter, cuprisorb, or a combination of thereof to get rid of it as soon as possible and find the source.

That’s too little light. I don’t have those, but I believe Red Sea lights have an acclimation function that gradually ramps up the power. As long as you acclimate them to the light, those corals can handle it. Most people that I know who have red seas have them at 100% blue and 25-30% white. Maybe someone with more knowledge on these lights can chime in.

I was planning a 50% water change tomorrow should i not do that much?
I haven’t dosed anything other then Seachem fuel so amino acids. And the drops of iodine

 

[Marine Betta]

Sorry to hear about your troubles. We’ve all rushed into something at some point in this hobby. I’m certainly guilty of impulse purchases on occasion. It looks like most of your corals are softies (mostly zoas and palys). These are beginner friendly. The trumpet coral is also a good LPS coral for beginners. However, what appears to be a pocillopora or birdsnest is not. Most sps need extremely stable and mature tanks with high light and flow. Some, like leptos and pavonas are as hardy as most LPS. With that being said, your parameters are out of wack.

pH should be 8.2
Salinity isn’t that low but 1.025 to 1.026 is better.
Calcium is fine.
Is that alkalinity 20 dKh or ppm? If it’s dKh it’s dangerously high and dangerously low if it’s ppm.
What is your magnesium level? This is arguably the most important between alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. What are you using to dose these three elements?
Nitrates and phosphates are high (especially nitrates). It seems as if the tank wasn’t fully cycled or the nitrifying bacteria couldn’t keep up with sudden increase in bioload.

I’d do small water changes over the next couple of days. This should gradually adjust the parameters to where they should be. Do not try to bring everything to their proper levels at once. You really need to find the source of that copper. Which would explain your snail die off. Is there a reason why you believed that there were elevated levels of copper in the water? Use a polyfilter, cuprisorb, or a combination of thereof to get rid of it as soon as possible and find the source.

That’s too little light. I don’t have those, but I believe Red Sea lights have an acclimation function that gradually ramps up the power. As long as you acclimate them to the light, those corals can handle it. Most people that I know who have red seas have them at 100% blue and 25-30% white. Maybe someone with more knowledge on these lights can chime in.

I was planning a 50% water change tomorrow should i not do that much?
I haven’t dosed anything other then Seachem fuel so amino acids. And the drops of iodine

In this case, I’d start with a 20-25% water change. That should do take care of a good amount of ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates, without changing the other parameters too drastically. The only way to lower alk is through water changes and/or gradual consumption by the coral. Where do you get the RO/DI water? Could that be the potential source of your copper? Is there any metal that could be leaching into the water?

As for maintaining the other parameters, pH buffers (which also raise alkalinity), and Ca, Mg, and Alk supplements will need to be used to keep these stable going forward. You’ll get a lot of opinions on this, but Red Sea, Aquaforest, and Brightwell are all fine.

 

[Matthew31]

We all learn from mistakes. Even to this day I make mistakes (I haven’t been doing it for decades but close to a decade lol)
I still get pumped for things I’ve been on the hunt for. For example, yellow tail tamarin. I tried this fish 6 times (nobody cancel me for this) but I finally got one to live. The point of this comment is to hopefully convey that even “seasoned” reefers make mistakes and rush things so you aren’t alone and I hope you don’t give up!!

As far as coals go, I have terrible luck with softies. I cannot keep a mushroom alive but I can keep other things way more easily.

I was looking at some of your parameters and I personally think p04 .18 is too high and nitrate is also high at 75ppm. Is your alk in dkh?
There is a good video Lou ekus gives talking about po4 specifically and his thoughts as to why po4 is better around .1ppm.

What I like to do is get my po4 to a “acceptable level .04-.1. And my nitrate to 10-20.

When I get them to typical levels a lot of the community has the most success with their tank, I watch my tank closely. I still monitor my tank parameters but I let the corals tell me when they are happy. I think all tanks run differently.

Why would there be copper in the tank? Are you having massive invert deaths?
There being any heavy metal in the tank would cause both corals and inverts to die. Both extremely sensitive to heavy metal.

A way to clean it out is using purigen. And then figure out why there is metal in your tank.

Whenever I send in icp tests there aren’t ever any heavy metals in my tank.

With your ammonia you can use something called aqua vitro seed or fritz turbo start. I think those 2 products say it makes the water safe for fish immediately. Don’t quote me on that but I think that’s the way they market their product.

I’m curious as to what type of light you’re using and how big of a tank you have.

Here is a pic of my old tank.

A few things,

What salt are you using?
How much food are you feeding what what type of fish food are you feeding?
Feeding any coral food?

I looked at your pictures and your tank looks clean haha. I would expect a hair algae nightmare with how high your nutrients are.

Are you using Hanna low range phosphate or ultra low range?
And low range nitrate or you using higher range nitrate test kit?

With high ammonia, I’d change water more frequently but a lower amount. Just for your fish sake.

But I’d also be a little hesitant on changing large amounts of water if you’re putting metal back in the tank.

Have you ever tested your freshly mixed water?

I have an auto water change system. I use tropic Marin pro and that stuff mixes with very low alk. I buff the water with alk, mag and calcium before it changes water. I like to keep my tank at 7.5 dkh. Again this is just a number I prefer keeping.

There are other ways to reduce nutrients. You can keep it simple by feeding less, skimming wetter and water changes.

There are a lot of other ways you can do this but they are more involved. Seeing you are just learning id keep it simple and do it the easy way.

Alk can be lowered with water changes as well. You just don’t want to swing it more than like 2 ppm at a time. Bulk reef supply has a video explaining how you should raise your alk and how much is “acceptable”

There are so many videos man! Watch watch watch, Read read read read and ask ask ask ask.

 

[lubashmike]

I’m using instant ocean from petco
Ultra low phosphate and high range nitrate

I can test the water tomorrow before doing a change. I am confused on where the copper is coming from now

I was feeding twice a day but now just once a day the past 2 days and i make sure a few pellets at a time and watch the fish eat it so it doesn’t settle. Its bulk reef supply pellets

I don’t really have a way to add mag or alk except the all for reef i guess

Is ph okay under 8?
Should i keep adding bacteria till the ammonia is gone?
I do have bio balls and 2 plates in sump

 

[lubashmike]

In this case, I’d start with a 20-25% water change. That should do take care of a good amount of ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates, without changing the other parameters too drastically. The only way to lower alk is through water changes and/or gradual consumption by the coral. Where do you get the RO/DI water? Could that be the potential source of your copper? Is there any metal that could be leaching into the water?

As for maintaining the other parameters, pH buffers (which also raise alkalinity), and Ca, Mg, and Alk supplements will need to be used to keep these stable going forward. You’ll get a lot of opinions on this, but Red Sea, Aquaforest, and Brightwell are all fine.

I got a bottle of all for reef today should i start dosing that?

I have an rodi system in the house used for freshwater tank that I’ve had over a year now never had problems there but also never tested the copper so I’ll check that tomorrow! Is there a way to remove metals? Like Seachem prime?

 

[lubashmike]

In this case, I’d start with a 20-25% water change. That should do take care of a good amount of ammonia, nitrates, and phosphates, without changing the other parameters too drastically. The only way to lower alk is through water changes and/or gradual consumption by the coral. Where do you get the RO/DI water? Could that be the potential source of your copper? Is there any metal that could be leaching into the water?

As for maintaining the other parameters, pH buffers (which also raise alkalinity), and Ca, Mg, and Alk supplements will need to be used to keep these stable going forward. You’ll get a lot of opinions on this, but Red Sea, Aquaforest, and Brightwell are all fine.

I got a bottle of all for reef today should i start dosing that?

I have an rodi system in the house used for freshwater tank that I’ve had over a year now never had problems there but also never tested the copper so I’ll check that tomorrow! Is there a way to remove metals? Like Seachem prime

 

[Matthew31]

I’m using instant ocean from petco
Ultra low phosphate and high range nitrate

I can test the water tomorrow before doing a change. I am confused on where the copper is coming from now

I was feeding twice a day but now just once a day the past 2 days and i make sure a few pellets at a time and watch the fish eat it so it doesn’t settle. Its bulk reef supply pellets

I don’t really have a way to add mag or alk except the all for reef i guess

Is ph okay under 8?
Should i keep adding bacteria till the ammonia is gone?
I do have bio balls and 2 plates in sump

When you bought your clowns did the lfs have the fish in copper? And did you dump the fish and water into your display?

I’d test the new water for copper, alk mag and calcium. I’d personally hold off on dosing. Your alk is already high and adding will just raise it. I dont see you have many stony corals so I think your tank could be managed with water changes.

When you start adding corals that uptake cal, alk and mag then I’d dose.

My tank is in a small area and I don’t have any window open so it’s always around 8. At night it’ll dip but it’s always pretty close to 8. I would stay FAR AWAY FROM ANY PH BUFFER! Or spending huge amounts of money on any co2 scrubbers. Open a window or run an airline from your skimmer to outside if you want to raise it lol.

I would follow the instructions on the bottle for the bacteria. I wouldn’t add any chemicals or anything to the tank.

The first thing I’d do is test my new water to see what you’re putting in the tank. If you have any carbon I’d add it to remove any metal or toxins that are in the tank.

I don’t have much experience keeping those type of coral but I think I read Zoa and paly can release some toxins in the water. Maybe your coral are just unhappy from that.

It’ll just be easier to systematically go through things 1 at a time and be able to eliminate potential causes!

I know it’s heartbreaking and stressful to watch but it’s important to not speed through fixing the tank or you’ll end up possibly making it worse

Just be patient and check things off. If your new water is good water changes should help you resolve most issues.

 

[lubashmike]

When you bought your clowns did the lfs have the fish in copper? And did you dump the fish and water into your display?

I’d test the new water for copper, alk mag and calcium. I’d personally hold off on dosing. Your alk is already high and adding will just raise it. I dont see you have many stony corals so I think your tank could be managed with water changes.

When you start adding corals that uptake cal, alk and mag then I’d dose.

My tank is in a small area and I don’t have any window open so it’s always around 8. At night it’ll dip but it’s always pretty close to 8. I would stay FAR AWAY FROM ANY PH BUFFER! Or spending huge amounts of money on any co2 scrubbers. Open a window or run an airline from your skimmer to outside if you want to raise it lol.

I would follow the instructions on the bottle for the bacteria. I wouldn’t add any chemicals or anything to the tank.

The first thing I’d do is test my new water to see what you’re putting in the tank. If you have any carbon I’d add it to remove any metal or toxins that are in the tank.

I don’t have much experience keeping those type of coral but I think I read Zoa and paly can release some toxins in the water. Maybe your coral are just unhappy from that.

It’ll just be easier to systematically go through things 1 at a time and be able to eliminate potential causes!

I know it’s heartbreaking and stressful to watch but it’s important to not speed through fixing the tank or you’ll end up possibly making it worse

Just be patient and check things off. If your new water is good water changes should help you resolve most issues.

It is hard! With freshwater you can make it brand new in an afternoon but this is a challenge for sure!

I’ll test the water tomorrow before the change. I did add the water from the bag and they were from petco so maybe?

I do have a door and window few feet from the tank maybe I’ll just open them for a cross breeze a little bit a day

I adjusted the light to the Red Sea set programming with acclimation on maybe they need more light for strength

Should i get reef food? Like reef roids?

 

[Marco_99]

have you ever changed your filters or resins on your RO/DI? Has it got a tds meter on it or have you checked the tds of the RO/DI output water? Slow down as other have said and dosing anything right now is only going to cause you issues. Stop dosing amino acids (or any coral food) as well until you truly understand what you are doing and how everything works, they can spike your nutrient levels in a hurry. Weekly 10-20% routine water changes will help guide you in keeping things stable. Patience and consistency are your friend

 

[lubashmike]

have you ever changed your filters or resins on your RO/DI? Has it got a tds meter on it or have you checked the tds of the RO/DI output water? Slow down as other have said and dosing anything right now is only going to cause you issues. Stop dosing amino acids (or any coral food) as well until you truly understand what you are doing and how everything works, they can spike your nutrient levels in a hurry. Weekly 10-20% routine water changes will help guide you in keeping things stable. Patience and consistency are your friend

It does not have a tds meter on it but tomorrow I’ll test it
So even with the corals looking so sad right now just water change, light, and flow for now?