New IM 150 EXT build. Diving into the deep end of the pool

Doob

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Good day all!


Who could say no to IM's current sale eh? Not I! This will be my biggest tank by far, and my first setup I'm building from scratch. There will be a lot of firsts here, so follow along, hang out and if you see the chance, help flatten my learning curve. Here’s the plan:
Tank: IM EXT 150 Lagoon

Sump: Looking for recommendations

Lighting: Aquatic life 48” t5 hybrid fixture + undecided LED

Flow: 4x Vortec MP40 on back of tank

Return: Sicce Syncra SDC 9.0



Tank arrived last week:

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Stand package was damaged:

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Minor damage to stand components:

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IM was awesome to deal with.

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I hired a structural engineer to make recommendations for supporting the floor under the tank. He came back with some pretty simple reinforcements:

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Aside from that, I need to add a couple dedicated circuits behind the tank before bringing it in. I plan to have transfer switched in the basement so I can plug a generator into them in the event of a power outage.



I have 3 steps between the garage and the house. The plan is to build a ramp to the doorway. The tank will be turned onto it’s face onto 4 wheel dollies so it can be rolled up the ramp and into the house. The goal is as little lifting as possible, so as little risk for drops as possible. I looked into hiring a moving company, but the one’s I called required I sign a liability waiver in case of an accident, so that’s out.



My first hurdle is proving to be matching a sump to this system. It almost seems like I’m missing something. Seems to me that the most important consideration in choosing a sump should be backflow capacity. If the power goes out, or I just want to shut the pump off for a water change, I don’t want to rely on check valves to prevent a flood.



IM tells me, with the return lines at the surface, up to 17 gallons may drain into down when the return is shut off. I’ve only found 1 sump that lists backflow capacity, and its only the 1 sump from that manufacturer that has it listed. Other build threads I’ve read for this tank the backflow capacity is either a silent consideration or not a consideration at all. I’m really at a loss here. I’ve been playing with a volume calculator to try to figure backflow capacity on my own but it’s really difficult. Especially when the highly rated sump builders have such hard to navigate product lines and poorly built websites.



I hestitated to buy a blemished Trigger CR44 for a steal, and someone got to it first. If you’re reading this, well done.



Current tank is a Red Sea Max E-170 with the in cabinet sump upgrade:

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New tank will also be SPS heavy. This take will eventually be phased out.



More to come soon!
 

BubblesandSqueak

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I really liked this size but I would not have been able to use the side doors in my space or get to the back easily (72" width alcove). so I went the 112 so I could stand on either side. restricts the doors some but I can still get to what I need the depth it was I really liked. I braced my floor as well. was told I didn't need to but felt better that I did. good luck with it. The Bashsea sumps are pretty nice. the 36 pro I believe you can switch between socks and fleece roller. I went with the complete system from IM though.
 

flatlander93

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I have an older skimz 39”. Works great. I had it already so didn’t have to make that decision. I do have the same tank. I also run a basement sump so that might make a difference.
 

Mastiffking

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Congratulations! I love mine! I can tell you I would have chosen option 3 with the two triple joists on each end . But I am also the guy that if three screws will hold it… 5 will do it better! I have the rfs39 from IM as my sump and in the last week only became comfortable shutting off the return when I saw it in action. The overflow raised my sump level from 9 to above 11 on the sump marking. That said, be mindful of the return nozzles. I had to lift them slightly to break the siphon. Look forward to seeing it up and running!
 
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I’m probably going to order the Trigger CR44 today. I’m still uneasy about it because based on the volume calculations and data provided by IM, it’s right on the border of being able to handle the back flow during a power outage. It’s the biggest I can find other than a synergy reef though. I’d feel better if someone with this setup had some first hand experience to offer and put my mind at ease!
 

Naekuh

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that sump looks very close to my rfs-39.

I don't see how that would be a issue, unless you set water level up too high, and your returns are set really low so it back siphons all the water below the outlet.

Even then you could probably put in a check valve in the return portion right above the pump, so you don't get back flow though the return.

Something like this works great...

check valve.JPG


This would prevent your outlet from reverse siphoning down back into the sump.

You would put this right on top of the outlet for your return pump.
 

BubblesandSqueak

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I’m probably going to order the Trigger CR44 today. I’m still uneasy about it because based on the volume calculations and data provided by IM, it’s right on the border of being able to handle the back flow during a power outage. It’s the biggest I can find other than a synergy reef though. I’d feel better if someone with this setup had some first hand experience to offer and put my mind at ease!
really you just need a siphon break or keep the return nozzles up near the overflow. If your sump is only half full, it's not going to overflow your sump if the pump stops. the size in the tank is what...36x60x0.5" thats the overflow of 4.68 gallon plus whatever the pipes have. guessing a few gallons. CR44 sump at 43 gallons should be plenty. I think you're fine.
 

Naekuh

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OH i also forgot to let you know, your stand is too close to the back wall...

You need about 4 inches to clear your rear overflow.... and about 7 inches if your going to use ball valves on the return.

I have pictures of the exact messurements, i can show you if you want, but didn't post as i didn't want to steal attention from your thread.

I also finished setting up my IM150 EXT not too long ago, so i am very well versed in that tank.

Lastly, i would keep your doors off until you finished everything.
I can't tell you how much easier access to the bottom of the tank is with the doors off, and you will need to get back there a lot if you haven't finished your plumbing yet.
 
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that sump looks very close to my rfs-39.

I don't see how that would be a issue, unless you set water level up too high, and your returns are set really low so it back siphons all the water below the outlet.

Even then you could probably put in a check valve in the return portion right above the pump, so you don't get back flow though the return.

Something like this works great...

check valve.JPG


This would prevent your outlet from reverse siphoning down back into the sump.

You would put this right on top of the outlet for your return pump.

I’m hoping it won’t be. Water level for my skimmer is 7” so that’s good. I’m not comfortable relying on check valves though. I will have siphon break holes just below the waterline in the display.
 
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Doob

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really you just need a siphon break or keep the return nozzles up near the overflow. If your sump is only half full, it's not going to overflow your sump if the pump stops. the size in the tank is what...36x60x0.5" thats the overflow of 4.68 gallon plus whatever the pipes have. guessing a few gallons. CR44 sump at 43 gallons should be plenty. I think you're fine.

Tank is ~47 x ~35. Should be about 7gallons per inch of water level. Thanks!
 
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OH i also forgot to let you know, your stand is too close to the back wall...

You need about 4 inches to clear your rear overflow.... and about 7 inches if your going to use ball valves on the return.

I have pictures of the exact messurements, i can show you if you want, but didn't post as i didn't want to steal attention from your thread.

I also finished setting up my IM150 EXT not too long ago, so i am very well versed in that tank.

Lastly, i would keep your doors off until you finished everything.
I can't tell you how much easier access to the bottom of the tank is with the doors off, and you will need to get back there a lot if you haven't finished your plumbing yet.

Thanks! It’s actually 4” from the wall in the pictures, but I hadn’t accounted for ball valves. I may lean on you a bit as I get this thing going since you just went through it!
 
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Doob

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OH i also forgot to let you know, your stand is too close to the back wall...

You need about 4 inches to clear your rear overflow.... and about 7 inches if your going to use ball valves on the return.

I have pictures of the exact messurements, i can show you if you want, but didn't post as i didn't want to steal attention from your thread.

I also finished setting up my IM150 EXT not too long ago, so i am very well versed in that tank.

Lastly, i would keep your doors off until you finished everything.
I can't tell you how much easier access to the bottom of the tank is with the doors off, and you will need to get back there a lot if you haven't finished your plumbing yet.
Did you line the stand with pond liner? I’ve read that people do this but I don’t know what it would accomplish that a good bead of silicone wouldn’t.
 

BubblesandSqueak

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Did you line the stand with pond liner? I’ve read that people do this but I don’t know what it would accomplish that a good bead of silicone wouldn’t.
I used ice rink liner since my stand is white and removes all the black board. makes the black sump stand out more. that bottom board isn't really water proof. and it's fairly large gap to caulk. but white rink liner and white electrical tape was my route.
 
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Doob

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I used ice rink liner since my stand is white and removes all the black board. makes the black sump stand out more. that bottom board isn't really water proof. and it's fairly large gap to caulk. but white rink liner and white electrical tape was my route.

That’s a good idea. Where were you able to source a small piece, or did you just have to buy way too much?

Edit, I bet a white shower curtain would work great.
 

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