New Lux Meter--how do I use...

[Susan Edwards]

Agreed.

Algae ? Lower the red a bit , shrooms angry and shrunk , drop the par 100 , zoas browning , increase the par 100 etc.

so this is saying I do need to have the reds and greens but maybe if cyano is an issue, turn down those intensities?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

so this is saying I do need to have the reds and greens but maybe if cyano is an issue, turn down those intensities?

Yep. Exactly.

IMO , set the peak color to eye. Make the tank look great to you. If there is an issue slowly change.

I run a very warm tank by comparison to many others. No real issues from the light.
It’s the difference between a 14k bulb or a 20k.mh, Or c+ b+ T5. They all grow coral.

 

[mcarroll]

so this is saying I do need to have the reds and greens but maybe if cyano is an issue, turn down those intensities?

Yes but no.... ;) A big light change can provoke a bloom in some circumstances, but it takes more than light to create and algae bloom....that takes light, available nutrients, and space. You may or may not want to turn down your lights, but there are at least two other avenues to consider when addressing the issue. ;)

 

[Susan Edwards]

what do you consider "Warm"

By my numbers, I should prob. lower lights to at least 5 inches if not just go down to 3 and cut intensity.

btw, thanks for you imput. Lighting is new to me as with the RS it was decided already!

 

[Susan Edwards]

@mcarroll very true as I know from my other tank. In this one I'm trying to be proactive to avoid issues that can be avoided. So for now, as there are only 2 corals in there, I'll cut back to where I was, with maybe upping the red and green some and adjust as I add new corals.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

My tank looks like this in person.
Only a slight tinge of blue. Esp compared to a t5 C+ B+

Most would consider this warm.

 

[mcarroll]

My tank looks like this in person.
Only a slight tinge of blue. Esp compared to a t5 C+ B+

Most would consider this warm.

Reminds me of the light from some of the better PC tanks back in the day – I like it! :)

I think Current USA's LED lights somewhat mimic this today.

 

[Susan Edwards]

ah, more white, less blue. More natural I'm thinking. I'm not a fan of tanks that look purple or blue. My sil keeps his almost all blue the majority of the time. I never feel as though I'm actually seeing what is there. I do like the balance of white which makes everything look a bit brighter.

 

[Susan Edwards]

Oh, nice by the way!

 

[Susan Edwards]

with 2 lights, spread 3 inches apart, does that double my par or make the par slightly higher or just make that par more even across and down?

question from one of my earlier posts bottom of page 1. Just asking if 2 lights doubles the par of one as I can only hold meter under 1 light. Also, does it matter the spacing apart on the 2 lights? Better just a couple inches apart or more?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

It actually make the middle , bottom a bit higher as the beams mix more there.

But the ball is picking up some of both Lights at the top.

 

[Susan Edwards]

Not sure if auto correct did something to your first sentence as it doesn't seem to make much sense. I figure the lights mix or combine going down. If the par of 1 light is say 200, where the lights mix or intersect is it 400? If the 90 deg lens are like an "A" going down by the time the lights hit the water, is the par going to be double that of say just one light or maybe less than double but more than just a single.

Example: 1 light being 300 at water surface 7" above, what will 2 be, say in the middle of the 2 lights on the surface. Or even 5-6 inches below water surface.

Just trying to get a handle on what I might be looking at for coral placement. With one light, especially with a bit of light spill from the other, I'm not getting very good par at water surface and the rocks start another 4-6 inches below that.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Just trying to get a handle on what I might be looking at for coral placement. With one light, especially with a bit of light spill from the other, I'm not getting very good par at water surface and the rocks start another 4-6 inches below that.

Before we get technical , how do you decide on placement in your other tank?

 

[Susan Edwards]

with 6 t5's I assumed that 5-6 inches from water (lights about 3 inches above that) is pretty bright so also assumed that sps would do fine higher up. I have one acro with nice PE. So mostly went by trying the corals in different places and going by the top third, middle third, lower third ideas for the individual corals. Maybe even going more by flow. I guess with LED's I'm afraid I won't have enough light. I know the hydra 26's on the coral frag tank--RS-- are so much brighter. With a 6 foot long tank, what I got for the new tank was the most I could afford with the ability to ramp up and down and have moonlights. So I guess I'm basically angsting :confused:a bit on that knowledge/choice and wanting to be sure I can provide for most of what I want.

I have a handful of new coral ready to add but need to get my alk/ca/mg up and in line first. couldn't believe how low hte numbers were with water in tank, no corals for a month! So while waiting for that I want to be sure where I planned to put my corals would work. Here's my anal map plan below. Just a plan, and ideas based on research and wish list.

If you think I'm fine, feel free to tell me to chill ;)

 

[Susan Edwards]

dup post

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'm basically angsting :confused:a bit on that knowledge/choice and

Right??
It’s fine. Been there. Done that(today in fact, twice!!)

So mostly went by trying the corals in different places and going by the top third, middle third, lower third ideas for the individual corals. Maybe even going more by flow.

do it just like that.

A lot of corals have such a wide range of par they will take that kinda doesn’t matter where in the tank they are. I have spas and Xenia at 400 par. (I lowered it a little was 700).
If you look back at the reccomend leave a few posts back. You’ll see you’ll probalt want a mixed reef level of par rather than traditional sps. I’d wager your t5 tank is about those types of levels.

In my highlight tank, I can grow acros in the sand and the clams love it. A few of the shrooms. Not so much. It’s about 200 par.

So hilariously, I had an acro that kept greening out On me up on the rocks and on the side of the tank.
Guess what. Deep water acro. Lower par coral. Loves the sandbed. Lol so 18 months later , I found out it was yellow, not green, or brown like when I got it.

So there’s always some guess work and finger crossing no matter the meter.


An interesting experiment would be to put the lux meter on the other tanks. (T5 devide by 50)

 

[Susan Edwards]

I'll try the other tank. Will have to raise lid as I can't fit the meter under without hitting water <g>

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'll try the other tank. Will have to raise lid as I can't fit the meter under without hitting water <g>

Eww. Don’t go to a lot of trouble if ya don’t have to.

 

[Susan Edwards]

lol's. Not a big deal Lid lifts easy enough. It's one of the rsms c250

 

[diver22]

I know this is an old post, but why do we choose x100 multiplier instead of x10, I’m learning and still not sure what makes it x100 or x10 on my Lux meter ?

When I put it under my lights I get a reading of 1300, if I do times x100 is a crazy number is why I'm asking... this is the Lux Meter I have maybe I need to just use the first 3 numbers When I check my lights I have a reading 1360.


Intell Sensor Instrument AS803