New RODI unit causing ammonia

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Oceanwave45

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Okay, clearly not the source water or the RO/DI then... :D

Hopefully this is just a minicycle, like a previous posted said. Or perhaps something died? My auto feeder fell into my 220 gallon once (aside from the algae nuisance it created), the ammonia rose slightly for 24-48 hours with not (obvious) affects...

Does everything 'look' okay?
Take a look everything is opened and seems fine fish seem to towards the bottom tho

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sbash

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="Oceanwave45, post: 4079717, member: 82647"]Take a look everything is opened and seems fine fish seem to towards the bottom tho

Everything looks fine... test it again tomorrow and the next day...

Makes me miss my lyretails...
 
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ndrwater

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Rule #1 don't chase numbers
Rule #2 slow down
Rule #3 see rule #1 &#2

As @sbash said, look at the tank. Does everything look happy? If so, enjoy the tank
I have a few corals in my tank that are my "Canary in a Coal mine" I can just look and see if something is off.
As for what numbers to be concerned with, ALK is a biggie. Stability is key. If your tank likes 7, great. 11, that's fine too. Just be consistent
Phosphates and Nitrates need to be in the proper ratio for good color and growth in SPS, but for now I would just look at the tank. I mean LOOK AT THE TANK... are the fish or corals in obvious distress? If no, then be more concerned with feeing the fish what they eat, make sure your ALK is stable, and enjoy it.. That is why we have tanks in the first place right?
 
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Oceanwave45

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Rule #1 don't chase numbers
Rule #2 slow down
Rule #3 see rule #1 &#2

As @sbash said, look at the tank. Does everything look happy? If so, enjoy the tank
I have a few corals in my tank that are my "Canary in a Coal mine" I can just look and see if something is off.
As for what numbers to be concerned with, ALK is a biggie. Stability is key. If your tank likes 7, great. 11, that's fine too. Just be consistent
Phosphates and Nitrates need to be in the proper ratio for good color and growth in SPS, but for now I would just look at the tank. I mean LOOK AT THE TANK... are the fish or corals in obvious distress? If no, then be more concerned with feeing the fish what they eat, make sure your ALK is stable, and enjoy it.. That is why we have tanks in the first place right?
Thank you I need that! Just difficult at times I love animals and I just don’t want to hurt and kill anything
 

EriksOasis

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Doesn’t look like you have a lot of rock in the tank. What are you using in your filter for biological filtration? Maybe adding more bio filtration would eat up the ammonia quick enough to not see it anymore.
 
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Oceanwave45

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Doesn’t look like you have a lot of rock in the tank. What are you using in your filter for biological filtration? Maybe adding more bio filtration would eat up the ammonia quick enough to not see it anymore.
I have 40 lbs of rock.
Media for HOB Filter - Purigen, Metrix, foam. Protein Skimmer
 

AquaFX

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I did not read all these posts, so I apologize if the answer has been posted. What is happening is the carbon is stripping the Chlorine component of the Chloramine. You can add 2 Chloramine Blasters in front of your system to get rid of the ammonia. I am surprised the DI is not taking care of that. How many gallons have you made through your DI? The DI maybe be used up or just too small to do the trick. Also using the DI to remove the ammonia is more expensive than using the proper prefiltration. We use a medical grade Media in our Blaster, it is used in Kidney Dialysis so we feel very confident that we achieve significant ammonia removal/reduction. The more Blaster media upfront the more removal of ammonia. Contact time is essential.
 

AquaFX

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Just an aside; Newer membranes perform well at lower pressures. Our membranes are tested and rated at 50PSI. Now with that said, efficiency does increase at higher pressures. But with the newer TFC materials, excellent results can be achieved at lower pressures. Achieving 65 PSI requires most folks to purchase a booster pump, that should not be necessary for most RODI domestic installations.
 

Hitman

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Also I see your using a API test kit the ammonia number your getting is that brands famous false reading with saltwater. You may not even have a issue. For a few dollars more I suggest getting a salifert test kit.
 

EriksOasis

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Also I see your using a API test kit the ammonia number your getting is that brands famous false reading with saltwater. You may not even have a issue. For a few dollars more I suggest getting a salifert test kit.

My thoughts also. If your first inverts and coral are all doing good there cannot be an ammonia issue or you would see suffering of the following.
 

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