Nitrate reduction without water changes

TWYOUNG

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What types of things would cause nitrate levels to drop in a new system without algae or water change?
 

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Skimmer removing it.
Skimmers do not directly remove nitrates. It only may work by removing the foods and organics before it breaks down into the end product of nitrate. Or by skimming whole bacteria that incorporated nitrates/phosphates as biomass.
 

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@TWYOUNG

What kind of drop are you seeing?
 

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Here’s a quote by Randy. A little nitrite (new tank) can show a false high reading of nitrates. I’m probably thinking that the nitrites are getting turned into nitrates so the test kit values are showing closer to the actual range.


My concern here with nitrite is the false positive it creates in nitrate. A little nitrite can read as a lot of nitrate with many kits. The Tropic Marin kit will read 0.5 ppm nitrite as 50 ppm nitrate.
 

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10 to 4 in one week. 150 gallons, 8 small fish, aggressively dosing pods but otherwise taking it slow. Zero phosphates!
What test kits are you using for nitrates and phosphates?
 
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TWYOUNG

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Here’s a quote by Randy. A little nitrite (new tank) can show a false high reading of nitrates. I’m probably thinking that the nitrites are getting turned into nitrates so the test kit values are showing closer to the actual range.



NO nitrites for several weeks.
 

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Hanna UL phosphate and HR nitrate.
I’d get phosphates to around 0.02ppm-0.10ppm. Higher than that range is better than lower.

Nitrates are relatively unstable in new tanks as there are many different processes that happen. I’d just focus on ensuring it doesn’t go undetectable and not worry about the specific number. Usually 2ppm-10ppm is an ideal range for nitrates, although some established tanks can be successful at higher ranges of nitrates.
 
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TWYOUNG

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I’d get phosphates to around 0.02ppm-0.10ppm. Higher than that range is better than lower.

Nitrates are relatively unstable in new tanks as there are many different processes that happen. I’d just focus on ensuring it doesn’t go undetectable and not worry about the specific number. Usually 2ppm-10ppm is an ideal range for nitrates, although some established tanks can be successful at higher ranges of nitrates.
Do I need to focus on raising phosphates this early in the game? First fish were added one month ago and I don’t intend to add corals for several months. Focusing on avoiding nuisance algae blooms. I have been feeding fairly heavy so fish and cuc have something to eat.
 

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That is what you will get if you leave your phosphates at 0. If you have rock in your tank anaerobic bacteria live in side the rock and it will take care of nitrates just not alot. If your bio load is small it will handle it.
 

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Do I need to focus on raising phosphates this early in the game? First fish were added one month ago and I don’t intend to add corals for several months. Focusing on avoiding nuisance algae blooms. I have been feeding fairly heavy so fish and cuc have something to eat.
I’d recommend at least 0.02ppm phosphates. Stripping the water to absolutely no phosphates can lead to dinoflagellates. They look like brown snotty algae, but nothing eats them and they are toxic. You don’t want to deal with them.

Tanks that grow corals will grow algae. Your best bet is stocking up with algae herbivores (snails and urchins) and using scrapers. I’d not recommend hermit crabs since they’ll kill snails to steal their shells and they don’t consume algae to any noticeable extent.
 
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TWYOUNG

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I’d recommend at least 0.02ppm phosphates. Stripping the water to absolutely no phosphates can lead to dinoflagellates. They look like brown snotty algae, but nothing eats them and they are toxic. You don’t want to deal with them.

Tanks that grow corals will grow algae. Your best bet is stocking up with algae herbivores (snails and urchins) and using scrapers. I’d not recommend hermit crabs since they’ll kill snails to steal their shells and they don’t consume algae to any noticeable extent.
I’ve got a lawnmower blenny, Foxface, and snails thus far. Will be adding my 7” PBT from another tank and some other tang species,(Yellow or Bristle tooth). along with an Aptasia eating Filefish. Will heavy feeding raise phosphates? If not what do you suggest?
 

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+1 to getting your phosphates up; bio-diversity requires phosphates to flourish and stave off nuisances, like Dino’s
 
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TWYOUNG

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+1 to getting your phosphates up; bio-diversity requires phosphates to flourish and stave off nuisances, like Dino’s
I was planning to start a fuge as soon as my phosphates reached 0.03-0.05. Is that still a good idea or if not how do I decide when?
 

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Bacteria, protists, corals, etc. can all reduce nitrate. I wouldn't worry about it. It could also be some interference with the test (i.e. little imperfections when performing the test).
 

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I was planning to start a fuge as soon as my phosphates reached 0.03-0.05. Is that still a good idea or if not how do I decide when?
Every system is different; I’d suggest observing your tank and seeing how livestock and flora is responding when you get to and maintain those levels.

0.03-0.05 phosphate is not high at all and not something that necessarily requires correction via macros or otherwise
 

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Will heavy feeding raise phosphates? If not what do you suggest?
Yes, feeding a bit heavier (whether fish eat the food or not) should raise phosphates. A common misconception people have is that fish that eat the food won’t raise the phosphates while uneaten food will.

Fish will expel most of the nitrogen and phosphate. So feeding will work. You might have to feed quite a bit in order to get a reading. Using sodium phosphate is a much easier way to achieve your goal.

I personally suggest dosing over feeding if you have a small fish load.
 

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