I have heard of a few people dosing ammonium on r2r but I don't remember who actually.Who here is dosing ammonia? I’ve heard it works well or better, but always dosed sodium nitrate.
I don't but have been thinking about dosing it.
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I have heard of a few people dosing ammonium on r2r but I don't remember who actually.Who here is dosing ammonia? I’ve heard it works well or better, but always dosed sodium nitrate.
I have heard of a few people dosing ammonium on r2r but I don't remember who actually.
I don't but have been thinking about dosing it.
I’ll read this when I wake up this evening.I did find this;
Post in thread 'Does anyone dose ammonia and/or how would one try?' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...-and-or-how-would-one-try.770535/post-8131607
Top Shelf has to dose it in a couple of their sps tanks. They use the seachem products for freshwater planted tanks.I have heard of a few people dosing ammonium on r2r but I don't remember who actually.
I don't but have been thinking about dosing it.
Top Shelf has to dose it in a couple of their sps tanks. They use the seachem products for freshwater planted tanks.
I say just feeding the fish more food and their by products are rich in ammonia is a much safer approach.I head it’s pretty dangerous. A small amount can nuke the tank.
I say just feeding the fish more food and their by products rich in ammonia is a much safer approach.
I have notHave you ever dosed it?
You can never look at one nutrient without looking at all other nutrients at the same time because they are all interconnected, including the micronutrients/trace elements.second I go above .2 I start seeing reduced PE and color, above .4 and I start seeing necrosis
Nitrate may be used by corals, but it should never be the only available nitrogen compound because this is the condition most likely causing burns (by the production of reactive oxygen species ROS) in corals and may even kill corals. This is established scientific knowledge. The proportions of nitrate in Plus-NP and NP-Bacto-Balance is only 20 and 25 % respectively. The remaining 80 and 75 % are reduced nitrogen compounds, also some ammonium.If he believes NO3 has little value in a reef, I wonder why he added it to Plus-NP, and NP-Bacto Balance. I’d like to hear his thoughts on that.
You can never look at one nutrient without looking at all other nutrients at the same time because they are all interconnected, including the micronutrients/trace elements.
If phosphate would really be that detrimental it should be all the time, independent from other conditions in the tank. In fact some reefers just didn't care much about phosphate or tried high phosphate concentrations intentionally (me included) without any negative effects. So the mechanism is most likely a different one: Phosphate or a combination of phosphate and some trace element are limiting coral growth in this tank. Adding phosphate will suspend phosphate limitation and intensifies other limitation(s) with detrimental effects.
Also the mechanisms behind darkening and browning of corals is similar. Phosphate is the limiting nutrient. Adding phosphate may cause a darkening for some time until another nutrient gets limiting to the zooxanthellae, then the colors may be normalizing or even getting better. Finally coral growth is nearly always limited by some nutrient or some combination of nutrients.
Nitrate may be used by corals, but it should never be the only available nitrogen compound because this is the condition most likely causing burns (by the production of reactive oxygen species ROS) in corals and may even kill corals. This is established scientific knowledge. The proportions of nitrate in Plus-NP and NP-Bacto-Balance is only 20 and 25 % respectively. The remaining 80 and 75 % are reduced nitrogen compounds, also some ammonium.
Nitrate is also less detrimental to corals if enough phosphate is available at the same time which is also made sure in both products. This effect is explained with repair mechanisms which are activated by phosphate.
The half saturation constants of nitrate uptake for dinoflagellates are at or below 0.5 ppm. This means concentrations above 1 or 2 ppm nitrate are not of much use as a nutrient. If there are additional effects of nitrate above these concentrations they must not be explained by nitrate as a nutrient but by other mechanisms, i. e. by nitrate being an oxidant, i. e. for bacterial and archaeal respiration and inhibiting iron(III) reduction.
So there is hardly any straightforward and easy approach to explaining the effects of nitrate but the situation is always a bit more complex.
As long as it works well for you and your corals everything is fine!Yeah, to be honest the only thing I noticed going up past 20ppm was thicker tissue and deeper colors. As long as I have at least 2-3 ppm I’m good. Never had anything die at that level. Currently I’ve been running around 10 ppm to give a little buffer zone just incase I get a strong growth spurt. When that happens I’ve had both N&P drop to zero pretty fast. That’s been repeated more than once. So now I just try to keep it a little more elevated to hopefully avoid becoming depleted. Not real sure if 10 or 20 is any better than 3. My gut tells me that maybe it gives the coral a little better chance of survival since our tanks are very different than the ocean.
As long as it works well for you and your corals everything is fine!
Explanation must follow observation, not vice versa. The challenge is to find the best explanation for an observation.
i can agree to this!I say just feeding the fish more food and their by products are rich in ammonia is a much safer approach.
I don’t buy into the nutrient thing, and certainly not ratios. Perhaps in the past high nutrients were related to poor husbandry and not reducing other invisible causes, build up of toxins, whatever.
40 no3
i can agree to this!
my no3 is very low(<1ppm), and my po4 is roughly .01-.03ppm(but more on the lower side).
i overfeed ridiculously. most of which settles in the sump and gets eaten by my CUC down there. i can say my corals have nice color, and could be better, but have their color and pop due to still getting the ammonia from the fish!
There are fundamentally different ways to run reef tanks and it is quite funny that it works in these different ways and corals grow. Maybe in natural reefs we also find these different ways of coral growth but for sure not with the same or even similar characteristics.I also try to keep a 50:1 or 100:1 ratio. I observe very little algae or tank issues at those numbers. Claude with Fauna Marine would agree with me there.
With the PO4 at say 0.15ppm, the question becomes just how low can we keep the NO3 without seeing all the funky algae on the glass. Every tank is so different it would be hard to pin down specific numbers.