Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

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d2mini

d2mini

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The masterflex will pull (or push) water through the reactor. If effluent is steadily exiting the reactor into your sump you are fine there.
You are saying you are not getting enough c02 into the reactor. I assume this means that you can't get the reactor ph low enough.
As stated above, increase the c02 by increasing pressure and increasing bubble count.
You should be able to see a change in bubble size and number.
If you do not, then something is blocking your c02 or you have an issue with your carbon doser.
 

lennyd19

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Ok. So took all suggestions. Had it staying steady for about 2 weeks. Then bam! Ph rises again. @d2mini I am trying to keep the CARX between 7.1 and 7.2. How often does your controller turn your solenoid on and off. I was trying to balance it in that range with the least amount of of on and off. Maybe I am looking at this wrong. Idk.
 
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Ok. So took all suggestions. Had it staying steady for about 2 weeks. Then bam! Ph rises again. @d2mini I am trying to keep the CARX between 7.1 and 7.2. How often does your controller turn your solenoid on and off. I was trying to balance it in that range with the least amount of of on and off. Maybe I am looking at this wrong. Idk.
I have no idea.
Don't worry about on/off. Just set the required ph and forget it.
Effluent pH shouldn't rise if you are using a controller.
 

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My issue still is on going. What is happening is as the masterflex pump turns it is cause back pressure. So when bubbles are released the pressure changes in the counter and it either pushes bubbles back or pulls more than needed. At this point I am stumped. Any suggestions. I did try the set and forget and allow controller to turn on/off but emptied my Co2 tank in a week. The Alk load is not a lot right now.
 

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I cannot speak to the Carbon doser, since I do not use it. On my Milwaukee dual stage there is an adjustment knob for setting the pressure level for the second, low pressure stage. I run my CaRx under slight pressure and have to make sure that the pressure in the second stage is higher than the internal reactor pressure otherwise the CO2 delivery gets all messed up. Perhaps that is your issue also.
 

lennyd19

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The Co2 pressure is spot on if I turn the masterflex off. Very consistent bubbles. I did change out the carbon doser for a dual stage regulator. It is as the master flex is causing the issue. But I travel a lot and tried with a needle valve and it constantly got clogged. Idk. Haha.
 

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I'm using a masterflex on mine without any issues. Take a video and post it here so we can see if there's anything obviously amiss.
 

lennyd19

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This is my values for the last 16 hrs or so. You can see a lot of inconsistencies.

441a5b26ae3e146b844a19ac4b8aa663.jpg
 

ca1ore

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Silly question how to I put a video on here?

Haha not a silly question at all. I just learned recently. Easiest way I found was to publish it to YouTube and then paste the share link into a post here.
 

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Do you think I would have better luck if I went to the old way and bring ca rx ph down and lower the effluent to a drip rate instead of a stream?
 

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For those that run a masterflex with the digital display...Does it turn on and run after a power outage or do you have to manually press the start button for it to start pumping again?
 

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For those that run a masterflex with the digital display...Does it turn on and run after a power outage or do you have to manually press the start button for it to start pumping again?

Mine has a setting that will turn it back on after it loses power. You can google the auto start function for your model to set it up.
 

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I couldn't find that setting in the manual. It might just be the model I got. Anyone know how to change the setting for the pump to run after a power cycle with this unit face?

E83FE9F0-966F-4C33-B0B6-4E2B46DE6C47.jpeg
 

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When you buy one off ebay, you should have in mind what level of noise is acceptable to you. The digital drive type is more expensive, but whisper quiet. That is the type I got from tkeracer. The variable speed console drives are very accurate as well, but a bit noisier. If equipment is in basement or fish room, noise may not be an issue. But if your equipment and the pump will be located in an area you need quiet, you may want to pony up for a digital drive type, which is more expensive.

Another thing I would look at regarding these pumps is your pump head choice. Easy Load heads, wether Easy Load I, II, or III, are the way to go for ease of use. And, I would also look for the Easy Load pump head models that accept the greatest variety of L/S tubing.

The wider the variety of L/S tubing the pump head installs, the more flexible the pump is in its uses, in case you ever repurpose it. A pump head that only accepts 3/8" ID tubing suitable to run an auto water changing system may not be very adjustable if you are only trying to dose 2 ml increments of amino acids should you use it for something else, whereas a pump head that accepts 1/16" ID to 3/8" tubing is.

If you buy a digital Console like the first picture I posted below, the tubing ID may not be as important, as you actually program the tubing you are using and the desired ml/minute rate, but I think the majority of users will buy the less expensive AC motor drives like I have pictures in my last two pictures.

Also, if at all possible, buy variable speed and reversible drive units like I have in the bottom two pictures below if you do not go with a digital drive. They make it a lot easier to adjust amount and flow rates.

Here's some more example pics of commonly available drives.

CIMG5113_zpsb702a5fa.jpg


CIMG5114_zps97accee4.jpg



CIMG5201_zps3a2d327e.jpg
What is the tubing you are using in the 2nd picture? I have the same head that accepts l/s 24 tubing and want to use it for a nitrate reactor. Thanks
 

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