Official: Masterflex Calcium Reactor Setup Thread

d2mini

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What you see below was originally posted by tkeracer619 from another forum.
He's been super busy so he gave me permission to copy and paste this info here.
If anyone is running a Calcium Reactor, I highly suggest you at least read the info below.
There are two things that can make a world of difference in operating a CaRx... an ultra precise and steady feed pump, and a quality dual stage regulator.
This thread covers the first of those items. It also talks some about the AP Carbon Doser regulator which is also a fine option. But for the same price, you can build a high end dual stage regulator that will last you a lifetime. But that is for another thread. ;)
I hope you all find the info below helpful. And again, a big thank you to tkeracer619 for bringing this to us in the first place.

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PART I

There are many ways to run a saltwater reef tank. In regards to supplementing alkalinity and calcium most people choose one of four methods. Kalkwasser, Two Part, Water Changes, and Calcium Reactors. This is the official thread for Calcium Reactors fed with Cole-Parmer Masterflex continuous duty peristaltic pumps. Many of the things here will cross over to other peristaltic pumps and I welcome posts showing high quality alternatives. The critical criteria here is that the pump is continuous duty and adjustable. Plastic hobby pumps will not survive this application and should be avoided at all costs.

This focus of this thread is to discuss the system, its benefits, and to assist in hardware selection with each individuals specific setup in mind.

Calcium reactors are great when they work well but when they don't they can be a serious pain. Consistency is often praised more then the actual tested number itself so often reefers find themselves frustrated at their expensive calcium reactor. They cannot get it dialed in and when they do it only lasts a few days. There are several reasons for this. The primary is that you are trying to adjust a living stream of water with a needle valve. Saltwater environments are very hard to regulate with needle valves, they simply clog with organic matter. On top of that you will have at minimum a sponge or two that can clog and media that will dissolve. This causes fluctuations in head pressure that when combined with the needle valve can create some headaches. With this setup the effluent is pumped through the reactor at a metered rate and has enough pressure capability to overcome any inconsistencies.

As far as gas delivery is concerned I am a big fan of the Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser electronic regulator. The only thing I would recommend above the AP Carbon Doser is the Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser add-on box with a digital screen attached to a Harris 15psi two stage regulator. As far as I am concerned this is the ultimate hobby regulator setup. Beyond that there are digital metering systems for medical and lab work. Use what you have and when you have to buy again look at the carbon Doser.

In regards to calcium reactors I prefer traditional style reactors as opposed to reverse flow. Both will work fine but reverse flow reactors will need the effluent output line plugged (if it is on the plumbing) and the effluent taken from the lid of the reactor.

When you combine the peristaltic pump, the electronic regulator, and a high quality reactor what you will end up with is a very stable reactor that is predictable, easy to adjust, and reliable. It works and it works incredibly well as you will surely see from the following posts.

Like most things that are built to a higher standard there is a sticker shock with this setup. Expect to pay $250-$550 for a used pump. New you are looking $1,800-$2,400. The regulator is $270-$300. The reactor can be anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand depending on your needs. I expect a typical system following this setup will cost between $1000-$1600 depending on options.
 
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d2mini

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PART II

The pumps I prefer are the Digital Brushless units. In the brushless line the most commonly available units are model numbers 7523-60, 7550-30, 77301-20, and 77301-30. The 77301-30 controller is in a waterproof case. The rest of them will need to be kept free of moisture and salt creep as they are either in a modular (motor and controller separate) or a console (motor and controller in the same case).

They have a couple other variations that change things such as cord length, operating voltage, color, and rpm range so don't let those model numbers necessarily be your only search terms. Often they are labeled as a Barnant if custom ordered. A simple phone call to Cole-Parmer can usually solve any questions you might have about an unknown pump.

Ideally for calcium reactors you are looking for the pump to be 6-600rpm. IME for most peoples applications we will be using LS17 tubing. It has a 1/4" ID and a 3/8"OD. Masterflex tubing comes in two types, precision and performance. Both will work as long as you have the proper head but we will focus on precision tubing since the tubing is more readily available. **You have to match the tubing to the head or the unit will malfunction.**

Pump heads vary. Standard load, easy load, quick load... ect ect. I prefer easy load heads but as long as you have the right size tubing any head is fine. They come in Cold Rolled Steel (CRS) and Stainless Steel (SS) variations. Both work but stainless are often in better shape. If you can get stainless go for it, if you can't don't let it keep you from getting a good drive.


Most of the calcium reactors currently use is the 1/4" John Guest tubing. For longer runs or commercial units use 3/8 JG tubing. These are my suggestions for LS17 tubing. Each situation might require something different but for most of us this first group will be the one. The best tubing I am aware of right now is Pharmed Tygon supplied by US Plastics. It has a long life exposed to this environment. I change the tube once every quarter. It will last longer but... its cheep to be proactive. The qty suggested is good for about 2.5 years if kept away from radiation.

**** For 1/4" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36204

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42009

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534



**** For 3/8" OD John Guest to LS/17 ****
(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34898

(QTY3)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=42012

(QTY4)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=34082

(QTY10)http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=25534
 
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d2mini

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PART III

Stability.

reefangelportalscreensh.jpg


The Ph reading is my reactor however I am not controlling it. That straight line is the reactor without any external forces keeping it at that ph. The only adjustments you will need to make to the system are when demand increases. You will not need to touch anything after you break down the reactor for cleaning even after refilling the media. You are running a metered amount of gas and effluent so without any sort of controller intervention as the media dissolves and there is less of it the reactor just dissolves more media resulting in a stable output over the entire media cycle without having to compensate or fiddle with any knobs. It just works.



This is my current setup. Its a MRC CR2 Dual With a mag3, Masterflex 77301-20, and an original AP Electronic Regulator. I use ARM standard media and buy it in the 50lb bags. If you shop around you can find a great deal on it. I feel it works better in most reactors then the coarse stuff. I haven't re-installed this since the crash but its time is coming. It has to wait until a little scuba trip is over :)

Lets see some current setups and results! I know they are out there, now lets see them.

If you have questions this is the place to ask!

ntqf.jpg
 
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d2mini

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When you buy one off ebay, you should have in mind what level of noise is acceptable to you. The digital drive type is more expensive, but whisper quiet. That is the type I got from tkeracer. The variable speed console drives are very accurate as well, but a bit noisier. If equipment is in basement or fish room, noise may not be an issue. But if your equipment and the pump will be located in an area you need quiet, you may want to pony up for a digital drive type, which is more expensive.

Another thing I would look at regarding these pumps is your pump head choice. Easy Load heads, wether Easy Load I, II, or III, are the way to go for ease of use. And, I would also look for the Easy Load pump head models that accept the greatest variety of L/S tubing.

The wider the variety of L/S tubing the pump head installs, the more flexible the pump is in its uses, in case you ever repurpose it. A pump head that only accepts 3/8" ID tubing suitable to run an auto water changing system may not be very adjustable if you are only trying to dose 2 ml increments of amino acids should you use it for something else, whereas a pump head that accepts 1/16" ID to 3/8" tubing is.

If you buy a digital Console like the first picture I posted below, the tubing ID may not be as important, as you actually program the tubing you are using and the desired ml/minute rate, but I think the majority of users will buy the less expensive AC motor drives like I have pictures in my last two pictures.

Also, if at all possible, buy variable speed and reversible drive units like I have in the bottom two pictures below if you do not go with a digital drive. They make it a lot easier to adjust amount and flow rates.

Here's some more example pics of commonly available drives.

CIMG5113_zpsb702a5fa.jpg


CIMG5114_zps97accee4.jpg



CIMG5201_zps3a2d327e.jpg
 

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Is the 6-600 RPM pump really needed for a Ca Reactor? or would a 1-100 unit work fine? I guess I just cant see needing that much flow for a Ca reactor unless you have a HUGE system but I could be wrong.
 

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You’re right in that you probably won’t need such a high rpm ever. However one of the virtues of brushless masterflex pumps is that they are just about silent when run on towards the lower range of rpm. When I increase my rate super high, it gets noisy. If it’s in a garage or somewhere where sound doesn’t matter, then this is less important.

Also, flow rate through the pump depends on the inner diameter of the tubing that you choose. Each head is rated to accommodate different tubing and you can generally choose from smaller to larger inner diameter. Flow is not just about the rpm.
 

Gablami

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I would also add that prices have gone up since this original post. A very nice model that is not included in the original post is the 7523-80. Also you can stack heads or have multichannel heads for automatic water change.

In this photo the top pump is for carx and the bottom is a dual channel for awc.

081e458dc9c5cd90efb9b173f46f941d.jpg
 
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d2mini

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I would also add that prices have gone up since this original post. A very nice model that is not included in the original post is the 7523-80. Also you can stack heads or have multichannel heads for automatic water change.

In this photo the top pump is for carx and the bottom is a dual channel for awc.

081e458dc9c5cd90efb9b173f46f941d.jpg

How are you handling variances in your awc set up? That was one problem I had. Slightly different lengths of tubing (I assume) gave me different amounts per head. I ended up adjusting my fresh saltwater salt level to compensate.
 

Gablami

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I haven’t noticed any differences. Instead of using stacking two heads, this is a two channel head, so the fluid moved is equal since they are on the same roller. The ro tubing from my mixed sw station is much longer than my drain line, but I feel like the masterflex is more than able to overcome any change in head pressure from that.

I think using stackable heads may give you slightly different volumes since some tensions on the roller head may be more than another head.

I don’t know why this popped up in my feed this morning. Was embarrassed to realize after I posted that the last post was from 2016.
 

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Does anyone have a link to documentation that deciphers the various masterflex pump head product codes? For standard heads, I am pretty sure the product code is something like 70xx-yy, where xx=the tubing size, and yy refers to various options like roller material, shaft length, etc. I know I have seen the explanation somewhere, but I am coming up empty with a search ...
 

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I have really enjoyed having my masterflex on my Calcium reactor. I managed to snag a brushless with a head I could use for $220 shipped on eBay...buyer couldn't fully test the unit but said it ran both ways. Got it in and works perfectly. My load is still pretty low, so I'm only running 20mL/min with reactor pH dialed in at 7 using a carbondoser regulator. I had a ton of issues dialing in my reactor before this combo, and am now convinced that it is the best way to get consistent results!
 

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I have really enjoyed having my masterflex on my Calcium reactor. I managed to snag a brushless with a head I could use for $220 shipped on eBay...buyer couldn't fully test the unit but said it ran both ways. Got it in and works perfectly. My load is still pretty low, so I'm only running 20mL/min with reactor pH dialed in at 7 using a carbondoser regulator. I had a ton of issues dialing in my reactor before this combo, and am now convinced that it is the best way to get consistent results!

I also had a hard time dialing before and then I got a masterflex pump. Hooked it all up worked great for about 2 weeks now I am have I got an issue with proper co2 amour. I am using a carbon doser also. How do you have yours setup? Is it pushing or pulling through the reactor.
 
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d2mini

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I also had a hard time dialing before and then I got a masterflex pump. Hooked it all up worked great for about 2 weeks now I am have I got an issue with proper co2 amour. I am using a carbon doser also. How do you have yours setup? Is it pushing or pulling through the reactor.
Pull or push shouldn't matter much but I'd pull just to avoid pressure build up inside the reactor.
What exactly is your issue with the c02?
 

lennyd19

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Not getting enough co2 into the reactor now. Tried putting carbon doser lower and still no luck. 2 weeks ago I was getting to much co2 it was almost like it was sucking co2 bubbles out of the supply tube every rotation of the masterflex. I am pushing water through so maybe I will try pulling. I am almost at my whitts end. Lol
 

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I am pulling with the masterflex. On the carbon doser, there are 2 adjustments you can make. I assume you’ve been increasing the bubbles per second with the main dial which is one adjustment. The other is the bubble size based on the PSI you are putting into the solenoid. I am running 5psi and a bubble every 8 seconds to keep 20ml per minute of effluent st 7.0 pH. My tank is only about 4 months old so my demands are still pretty low.

I would try increasing the bubble size by increasing the PSI (right gauge).
 

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I am pulling with the masterflex. On the carbon doser, there are 2 adjustments you can make. I assume you’ve been increasing the bubbles per second with the main dial which is one adjustment. The other is the bubble size based on the PSI you are putting into the solenoid. I am running 5psi and a bubble every 8 seconds to keep 20ml per minute of effluent st 7.0 pH. My tank is only about 4 months old so my demands are still pretty low.

I would try increasing the bubble size by increasing the PSI (right gauge).

Yes I have tried both. My demand is not high either as it is a newer setup also. So this just dawned on me. I may have the feed hooked up incorrectly. With use of the masterflex pump the inlet from the sump should just be static correct no feed pump right. I swear smh. Lol
 

Caravanshaka

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As long as the reactor is filled that should be fine. Will create a vacuum to suck the water through the reactor.

Do you have a separate bubble counter to make sure it is pushing cO2 out? If not, but the end of the cO2 line into a cup of RODI and turn it on and make sure you get bubbles. Easy to overlook something like a check valve installed backwards.

What pH are you trying to get to? Do you have a probe in the reactor? Has it been calibrated with 4.0 and 7.0 fluid?
 

lennyd19

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It is a Lifereef ls1 reactor with bubble counter and ph probe to apex. Been calibrated twice now. I was just thinking before I had the masterflex I had it plumbed of my Fuge pump to feed it. Not thinking just hooked the masterflex right up to that. Thinking it is maybe building pressure before each rotation of masterflex.
 

lennyd19

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As long as the reactor is filled that should be fine. Will create a vacuum to suck the water through the reactor.

Do you have a separate bubble counter to make sure it is pushing cO2 out? If not, but the end of the cO2 line into a cup of RODI and turn it on and make sure you get bubbles. Easy to overlook something like a check valve installed backwards.

What pH are you trying to get to? Do you have a probe in the reactor? Has it been calibrated with 4.0 and 7.0 fluid?

I was trying to get around 7 for now.
 

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