On the verge of quitting

terraincognita

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Green Hair Algae

hair algae 300x225
hairalgae2 300x181



Green Hair Algae or "GHA" is really a broad term that covers hundreds of species of green simple filamentous algae. These species tend to be simple, fine in texture, and have few distinguishable features. True species level identification requires a microscope.


Distinguishing it from look-a-likes: GHA is not coarse or wiry, it should break apart easily when pulled, and should lose form quickly when removed from water. If you can make out a root structure, or a stiff branching structure it is probably not GHA.


Manual Removal: Green hair algae can be pulled out easily, and tooth brushed or scrubbed off the rock work. This is easier to do if the rock is outside of the tank. If it is growing from the sand sift it out with a net.

Clean Up Crew: Assorted Hermits, Blue Legs, Florida Ceriths, Chitons, Turbograzers, Sea Hares, Conchs, Emerald Crabs, Urchins and a few others. It is readily accepted by many herbivores, but because it grows quickly it may persist even in a tank with a fair amount of cleaners.


Why it Happened: An excess of available nutrients, particular the majors like phosphates and nitrates. Keep an eye on possible iron and potassium sources which may also help fuel hair algae. Hair algae spores and fragments are so abundant that keeping it out of the tank via quarantine is unlikely to be successful. Your best bet to preventing this algae from taking hold is to maintain a weekly water change regimen, maintain your filtration and perform manual/natural algae removal as it forms. Proper magnesium and alkalinity levels are thought to discourage the growth of many species of GHA.


Starving it out: Use a phosban reactor or a macroalgae like chaeto to reduce nutrients. Increase the frequency of your water change routine, taking the opportunity to siphon out as much hair algae as you can each time. Older light bulbs tend to drift towards the red spectrum, and fuel the growth of hair algae so considered replacing them if need be.

----------------------

Bryopsis pennata and B. plumosa

bryopsisfts2 300x225



Some of the hardest to remove common species of macroalgae encountered in the hobby are B. pennata and B. plumosa. These two species have noticeable discernible midribs (center portion of the algae), that are wider than their branches. They also form a mat like root system on the rocks.


B. pennata (pictured on the left) has irregular and more sparse branching than its closely related cousin B. plumosa which has more symmetrical and fuller branching. (picture coming)There are many, many species of Green Hair Algae that have feathery branching, and are not necessarily members of the Bryopsis genus, nevermind B. pennata and B. plumosa. Simply because the hair algae in your system has branches does not mean it is one of these algae species.


The reason hobbyists despise finding this algae in their tank is because cleaner crews rarely finish it off when they snack on it. Sea hares, nudibranchs, urchins, emerald crabs, chitons, and even the larger Astrae tuber will nip at both of these species, but rarely consume it with any effectiveness.


If you do confirm you have Bryopsis:


1. Try to get on it quickly. If it is only on one rock remove the rock, remove algae, starve of light in a QT.
2. Manual Removal - If that doesn't work or get it all, remove all you can by hand. People will tell you not to do this because it will spread. Let me assure you, left untreated bryopsis will spread. Just be careful about it, and if you can pull the rock out to remove it all the better. If takes hold in the sand sift it out with a net. If you don't remove the base of bryopsis you are wasting your time.
3. Starve it out - As always if you can get down nutrients nuisance algae has a harder time taking hold, or coming back after manual removal.
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 aggressively.
5. If that doesn't work try raising your magnesium to very high levels. I don't want to be blamed if this causes losses in your tank, many people have done this with great success and minimal stress, but still....please do your research and don't blame me if something goes wrong. :)
 

terraincognita

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Can u get me one while ur at it lol


I got this one. It was only $200 and brought my TDS down from 240 to 3.

It's not 0. but f it. My tanks are beautiful. Also they say the meters have a margin error of 3% so it could be 0. who knows lol.

I was buying bottled water before that too, at least $40-50 a month.

So long run, it's just a money saver regardless of fish for me.

If you can understand and perform the most basic plumbing you can self install. I had to get a new kitchen faucet to support the hole for the Dispenser on my sink. Costs me $160 at home depot (I could've gotten a $60 one, but i wanted a nicer one)

All-in-all to get perfect water quality and a nice new kitchen faucet it was like $400, I had so buy some plubming wrenches and Compression adapters too for my water lines.

I had plumbers tape but it also came with a small roll.
 
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Texas Rick

Texas Rick

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The delicate stages of having a salt water tank. I will take measures and attack this. I will definitely get a RODI system. 7 stage and reduce light. But I just got a T5 set up. Is it wise to use it on a timer? I got 2 blue and 2 purple. It’s a addition to my kessil light.
 

terraincognita

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Sorry im like blowing up this frigging thread haha.

But reading more on other threads and posts to try to help. And apparently per my readings, poor RODI water will increase Algae and Byprosis greatly. Like to the point nothing else you do matters before you handle that.

That's a huge point. I never knew that, I guess cuz I always bought Salt Water from the LFS until i got RODI system.
 

bluprntguy

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The delicate stages of having a salt water tank. I will take measures and attack this. I will definitely get a RODI system. 7 stage and reduce light. But I just got a T5 set up. Is it wise to use it on a timer? I got 2 blue and 2 purple. It’s a addition to my kessil light.

I agree with @terraincognita. If none of your clean up crew are going anywhere near the algae in question, it’s likely bryopsis. A good close up photo will help confirm. Terra posted some information on the difference between hair algae and bryopsis so you can look.

While switching to RODI is likely going to improve your chance of success overall, it’s certainly not going to solve a bryopsis problem. That needs a different method of attack.

It’s important to find out what the problem is before you start making changes.
 
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Texas Rick

Texas Rick

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I agree with @terraincognita. If none of your clean up crew are going anywhere near the algae in question, it’s likely bryopsis. A good close up photo will help confirm. Terra posted some information on the difference between hair algae and bryopsis so you can look.

While switching to RODI is likely going to improve your chance of success overall, it’s certainly not going to solve a bryopsis problem. That needs a different method of attack.

It’s important to find out what the problem is before you start making changes.
Here is a picture of the problem. Can you tell what it is?

D0E1FCB6-6DC0-49F8-8039-A90C7401DA26.jpeg
 

ReefBeta

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Here is a picture of the problem. Can you tell what it is?

D0E1FCB6-6DC0-49F8-8039-A90C7401DA26.jpeg

Doesn't look like bryopsis. It doesn't seem to have the feather like structure. For bryopsis you will be able to pull the whole patch out and feeling the root attaching to the rock. If green hair algae, the algae will kind of melt in your hand when your pulling it.
 
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Texas Rick

Texas Rick

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Doesn't look like bryopsis. It doesn't seem to have the feather like structure. For bryopsis you will be able to pull the whole patch out and feeling the root attaching to the rock. If green hair algae, the algae will kind of melt in your hand when your pulling it.
Sounds about right on the green hair algae.
 

Ippyroy

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Sounds like you are ready to realign and attack the issues instead of quitting. I couldn't be happier for you. Remember the keys to success. Make a plan and then execute the plan. Also have plan b and c ready to go.
If your CUC doesn't eat the algae, they are getting food elsewhere. Simple fix is replace them, or put them in another tank and don't feed them for a few days. When adding new or readding after "time out", put them right on top of the algae. melevsreef has a great video about getting rid of GHA.
 
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Texas Rick

Texas Rick

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Sounds like you are ready to realign and attack the issues instead of quitting. I couldn't be happier for you. Remember the keys to success. Make a plan and then execute the plan. Also have plan b and c ready to go.
If your CUC doesn't eat the algae, they are getting food elsewhere. Simple fix is replace them, or put them in another tank and don't feed them for a few days. When adding new or readding after "time out", put them right on top of the algae. melevsreef has a great video about getting rid of GHA.

Great video
 

Ippyroy

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He is one of the guys I watch every week. His streams can hit 4 hours plus, but he is answering all kinds of questions. He is Top 3 for reefers on Youtube for me easily. I also highly recommend Mr.Slatwater tank TV and reefdudes. These three have taught me more about reefing than BRS by a long shot. BRS will teach all about the items and tools needed to make and maintain a reef tank, but these thre guys will teach how to use them and what else you should do to, but more importantly, how to do it. Inappropriate Reefer is another guy I like. He just cracks me up though.
 

SimbaAnto

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Hey I was in the same situation as you do because of diatoms and brown algae.

Started using RO water, Added GFO in Aquamaxx, Started dosing Brightwell Magnesion, Started doing Brightwell Razor. Now my tank is in better shape and lots of algae and brown algae reduction.

Ensure your skimmer is on full fledge as it will remove lot of waste.

I started seeing changes in a week
 

terraincognita

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Here is a picture of the problem. Can you tell what it is?

D0E1FCB6-6DC0-49F8-8039-A90C7401DA26.jpeg
That's GHA.

Here's your solution since everything else really looks beautiful in your tank.

All of these guys, will go to town and look cool.

Halloween Hermit
1598813011146.png


Astrea Snail
1598813122207.png




And if you don't have any fish that will clash.
Either
Lawnmower Blenny:
1598813168203.png



or Tailspot Blenny:
1598813196372.png



That. AND. Turn your whites way down. Get them to about 50% of what your blues are.

It should look more blue for sure. Algae feeds off the Red and Green pigments, corals don't really.
 

SimbaAnto

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Don't quit this hobby despite so much of loss and struggle. I am new to reefing and do lost a lot in fish due to newbie stupid impatienceness. But learning a lot and rectifying. What's there to do without any struggle. Satisfaction of doing this you will never get if you quit.
 

bluprntguy

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Sounds about right on the green hair algae.

That looks like regular old green hair algae. I’m surprised that you see much of that with an urchin in your tank. You can add some additional clean up crew, but before you do that, can you test you phosphates, post the results, and let us know what brand test you use for that?
 

ADAM

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Hey buddy! I haven't seen this til now, and sorry your having such an issue with the tank. I can say that GHA is beatable from first hand experience. My sons tank was a NIGHTMARE for a long time... I tried everything...extra CUC, carbon x10, GFO x10, light programs, super wet skimming, super dry skimming...and still it remained ...... but I did finally beat it!
The "FIX" that finally got me the upper hand is the hardest thing Ive done with a tank! I stopped all the "extra" filtering and added the recommended amount of carbon, the recommend amount GFO in a reactor (RowaPhos works best for me by far), changed socks and floss once a week, and I also added TLF Metazorb. That stuff was the easy part of course. The hardest thing to do was WAIT and not tinker trying to "fix it". In the meanwhile I did 20-25% weekly water changes and removed as much of the GHA I could easily pull off with the tongs before doing the WC so I could siphon out as much of the loose GHA as possible. Id change the socks the next day so the loose giblets of GHA missed by the siphon would have a chance to make there way to the socks and be removed quickly.
It took a couple months but finally it disappeared.

Fast forward to now... my son loved the look of xenia, well 80% of the rocks are covered and starting to choke out the other corals..... sometimes I miss the GHA days!

You can beat it, either with patience....... or baseball bat if you run outta patience!!! Hahaha
 

bishoptf

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I use RO water from the vending machines. It get serviced every week. The store makes sure it’s serviced every week because it’s a one of those health food stores and the only place I trust. The ones I don’t trust is the stand alone ones. Maybe I need to buy my own RODI system and plumb it into my kitchen sink. Another thing I’ve read. What is 0 TDS? How do I test for it and how does it affect my tank?

Here is my .02 (I'm a newbie too but went down the vending path myself initially). MyI guess would be that its the RO water from the vending machines. Before I purchased a RODI system I was getting my RO water from vending machines. Once I purchased a TDS meter I found that the water was not close to 0 TDS in fact it was 60-70 TDS and would vary by location etc. RO water is not the same as RODI, the DI step removes the last traces and should make the water have 0 TDS. I think if you get a RODI and start swapping out the water and physucally clean out the algae your problem will get much better, I am thinking your current RO water is the main problem...I would start with the RODI and see how things progress.

:)
 

Biglew11

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the ro water from the vending machines is for drinking water, which typically has a small amount of minerals added to it for taste. the 5 gallon water jugs we use at work have potassium bicarbonate, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride. i would expect vending machine water to be about the same.
 

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