One last fish…

[Crabby48]

Sorry for the loss.
Wrasse slime coat makes it more resistant to ich but free swimmers still can be on the fish. Also ich will go to wrasse gills so then it by passes the slime coat. Yes wrasse are less risk to bring in ich.
Melanurus can be jerks and I don’t recommend one of you plan on other wrasse.
Leopards are great but you need one that is healthy. They can eat pods while they get use to eating frozen. A healthy wrasse will learn to eat frozen fast. Once eating frozen it doesn’t take them long to eat anything as they are food hogs
Sand sleeping wrasse will burry in the open area’s but most like to find a place against the rocks in the sand. They can be messy throwing sand looking for food but with time that tends to slow down as they eat more prepared foods. Also they like to eat so more you feed the less they hunt pods and throw sand.

 

[Crabby48]

Keeping and qt’ing a wrasse in a 10 can be possible. It’s more stressful being smaller tank and some don’t do as good. Leopards very much like a more natural established tank. I qt wrasse with sand and keep tank as natural as possible.
I qt all fish so can’t tell you to qt or not. Do you qt coral and inverts. Do you want to keep all trace of disease out of the tank or just a problem and always keep good husbandry.
I mostly treat for flukes and if I see it’s internal then treat internal. Most wrasse I only copper two weeks

 

[LMSquire]

Well I’d say as long as you’ve got at least 1.5 inches you’re fine. I’ve moved them into larger quarters with a bit of a deeper bed now but that’s what I was running with in the 60. They’ll find spots as long as the sand is at least that deep. Sometimes you’ll know where due to sand spray that happpwned when they went to bed.

This seems to be the consensus, thanks!

 

[LMSquire]

Keeping and qt’ing a wrasse in a 10 can be possible. It’s more stressful being smaller tank and some don’t do as good. Leopards very much like a more natural established tank. I qt wrasse with sand and keep tank as natural as possible.
I qt all fish so can’t tell you to qt or not. Do you qt coral and inverts. Do you want to keep all trace of disease out of the tank or just a problem and always keep good husbandry.
I mostly treat for flukes and if I see it’s internal then treat internal. Most wrasse I only copper two weeks

Super helpful. So just finding that healthy leopard wrasse in a LFS or from someone else’s tank seems to be the ticket and a thorough qt. I could qt in my 25 shallow that is very established w good sand bed.

This brings me to my last issue- both my 70 gal reefer and my 25 gallon shallow are rimless. I have a fairy wrasse in my 79 that jumped once and was found luckily unharmed. Never did it again. But I’ve heard they could be jumpers. Would I need to get a grate for the top? I mean I know you can’t predict fish behavior but what has been your experience?

 

[Crabby48]

Best to get one from lfs so you can see it eat and if it’s looks to act normal. I won’t say it needs a qt anymore than other fish. Prazi is safe and sand sleeping wrasse the most common is flukes. I qt and friends do not. I hate meds to be honest.
If you can have an lfs hold a dish that can help as the week only last a few days to a week. Two weeks is my magic number. If a new fish can live two weeks It should live for years.
If possible it’s fine to buy leopards online but for them to survive getting shipped to you after all the other shippings and holding in stressed tanks your survival rate goes down.
For an almost 100 percent survival rate buy one from a place that qt’s proper. The meds isn’t the real magic to fish surviving but them holding 30-60 and feed quality and let fish settle before reshaping.

Sorry this is so long

Seal the tank up tight! Soft tops better than hard. They can jump in to the top so mesh is better then eggcrate. Also they can jump through eggcrate. They jump from stress, bullying or something spooks them. Like you moving quick or other fish.

Qt’ing wrasse can be a little tricky. I don’t recommend starting with wrasse. Leopards are little more tricky then fairy.
It’s safer to add to an established aquarium then qt’ing.

For a great chance of survival and know fish is healthy
Fish hotel. Awesome guy and very good. More smaller business.

Tsm aquatics. Great guy and good. Bigger business.

Marine collectors and a few others.

 

[JoJosReef]

Super helpful. So just finding that healthy leopard wrasse in a LFS or from someone else’s tank seems to be the ticket and a thorough qt. I could qt in my 25 shallow that is very established w good sand bed.

This brings me to my last issue- both my 70 gal reefer and my 25 gallon shallow are rimless. I have a fairy wrasse in my 79 that jumped once and was found luckily unharmed. Never did it again. But I’ve heard they could be jumpers. Would I need to get a grate for the top? I mean I know you can’t predict fish behavior but what has been your experience?

Definitely a mesh lid. Wouldn't be fun successfully getting a leopard to find it dried up on the floor.

I got mine shipped from Dr. Reef pre-QT'd. I would recommend speaking with Mike directly to get the sand sleeper wrasses shipped in bags with sand.

 

[LMSquire]

R

Definitely a mesh lid. Wouldn't be fun successfully getting a leopard to find it dried up on the floor.

I got mine shipped from Dr. Reef pre-QT'd. I would recommend speaking with Mike directly to get the sand sleeper wrasses shipped in bags with sand.

Right on, this is exactly who I was looking at. And you put right into your DT?

 

[LMSquire]

Best to get one from lfs so you can see it eat and if it’s looks to act normal. I won’t say it needs a qt anymore than other fish. Prazi is safe and sand sleeping wrasse the most common is flukes. I qt and friends do not. I hate meds to be honest.
If you can have an lfs hold a dish that can help as the week only last a few days to a week. Two weeks is my magic number. If a new fish can live two weeks It should live for years.
If possible it’s fine to buy leopards online but for them to survive getting shipped to you after all the other shippings and holding in stressed tanks your survival rate goes down.
For an almost 100 percent survival rate buy one from a place that qt’s proper. The meds isn’t the real magic to fish surviving but them holding 30-60 and feed quality and let fish settle before reshaping.

Sorry this is so long

Seal the tank up tight! Soft tops better than hard. They can jump in to the top so mesh is better then eggcrate. Also they can jump through eggcrate. They jump from stress, bullying or something spooks them. Like you moving quick or other fish.

Qt’ing wrasse can be a little tricky. I don’t recommend starting with wrasse. Leopards are little more tricky then fairy.
It’s safer to add to an established aquarium then qt’ing.

For a great chance of survival and know fish is healthy
Fish hotel. Awesome guy and very good. More smaller business.

Tsm aquatics. Great guy and good. Bigger business.

Marine collectors and a few others.

Thanks for all of this great information! I’m going to look at getting a custom 3D printed top for my Reefer 350. Saw some cool ones on Kraken Reef.

 

[JoJosReef]

R

Right on, this is exactly who I was looking at. And you put right into your DT?

No, I had a landing pad tank set up with plenty of sand, a few rocks and cycled media. Getting them through the first week seems to be the major challenge. My wrasses were sent at 1.015sg, I think. I kept them in the holding tank (13.5g Evo) for a week slowly raising the salinity to 1.026 and making sure they were comfortable and eating freshly hatched baby brine shrimp and mysis (Reef Nutrition) before moving them to the DT.

You can just acclimate them by drip and put them into the DT because they've been through and survived a full QT regimen. Mine were meaty, so they were clearly eating before arriving to me. But, if you want to be extra cautious and give the wrasses a chance to get comfy before going into the DT, a landing pad tank isn't a bad idea. 1.015 to 1.026 in one day is a lot.

For transfer, I scooped the wrasses up in a container in the sand by dredging the sand and capturing the wrasses with a bunch of sand in the container. They went back into the sand in the container after trying to escape. Then I scooped them out with my hand and put them into the DT close to the sand, opened hand and they went right into the DT sand for a day. Out the next day exploring.

 

[Crabby48]

No, I had a landing pad tank set up with plenty of sand, a few rocks and cycled media. Getting them through the first week seems to be the major challenge. My wrasses were sent at 1.015sg, I think. I kept them in the holding tank (13.5g Evo) for a week slowly raising the salinity to 1.026 and making sure they were comfortable and eating freshly hatched baby brine shrimp and mysis (Reef Nutrition) before moving them to the DT.

You can just acclimate them by drip and put them into the DT because they've been through and survived a full QT regimen. Mine were meaty, so they were clearly eating before arriving to me. But, if you want to be extra cautious and give the wrasses a chance to get comfy before going into the DT, a landing pad tank isn't a bad idea. 1.015 to 1.026 in one day is a lot.

For transfer, I scooped the wrasses up in a container in the sand by dredging the sand and capturing the wrasses with a bunch of sand in the container. They went back into the sand in the container after trying to escape. Then I scooped them out with my hand and put them into the DT close to the sand, opened hand and they went right into the DT sand for a day. Out the next day exploring.

Having a landing pad is a number one in my book! Also it’s only way to raise slow salinity on wrasse. Good info