Optimum Parameters for Fish and Corals - to avoid Fish Dying

[jeswin1.jose]

Hi,

I am new to Saltwater Aquarium. However my setup is now 5 months old.
I am trying to find the reasons why fishes are dying in my setup.

Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 5 PPM
PH - 7.9 to 8.1
Temperature - 26 degree (With Chiller)
Salinity - 1.025 sg

I am monitoring above parameters on a daily basis. And always the results are as above.

Tank Size - 3.5 Feet around 84 Gallon / 317 Litres
Type - Sump System with AquaForest Medias, with Bubble Magus Curve 5 Skimmer

The water used to setup tank was drinking water with TDS Level less than 5 PPM.

Water Change every one month - 20% [Top Up water with TDS level less than 5 PPM + Salt Added overnight]

Long Tentacle Anemone (Surviving without Issue since 4 months)
Club Anemone (Surviving Without Issue since 4 months)
Other Inverts like Turbo Snail, Cerith, Hermit (Surviving without issue since 4 months)
Green Chromis (Surviving without issue 1 month)
Queen Wrasse (Surviving without issue for 1 month)
Blue Damsel (Not Surviving, tried 3 times, survived only less than a week)
Yellow Belly Clown (Not Surviving, tried 3 times, survived only less than a week)
Seabae Clown (Not Surviving, tried 3 times survived only less than a week)
Smoke Angel ((Not Surviving, tried 1 time survived only 1 weeks)
Redtail butterflyfish(Not Surviving, tried 1 time, survived only 2 weeks)
Algae Octopus (Not Surviving, treid 1 time - only survived 2 weeks)
Star Fish Red Lynthia (Not Surviving, tried 2 times - only survived for 2 days)


Please note always the ratio of fishes has been in the tank like only 5-6 fishes.

Please advise which parameter i have to look into.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hi,

I am new to Saltwater Aquarium. However my setup is now 5 months old.
I am trying to find the reasons why fishes are dying in my setup.

Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 5 PPM
PH - 7.9 to 8.1
Temperature - 26 degree (With Chiller)
Salinity - 1.025 sg

I am monitoring above parameters on a daily basis. And always the results are as above.

Tank Size - 3.5 Feet around 84 Gallon / 317 Litres
Type - Sump System with AquaForest Medias, with Bubble Magus Curve 5 Skimmer

The water used to setup tank was drinking water with TDS Level less than 5 PPM.

Water Change every one month - 20% [Top Up water with TDS level less than 5 PPM + Salt Added overnight]

Long Tentacle Anemone (Surviving without Issue since 4 months)
Club Anemone (Surviving Without Issue since 4 months)
Other Inverts like Turbo Snail, Cerith, Hermit (Surviving without issue since 4 months)
Green Chromis (Surviving without issue 1 month)
Queen Wrasse (Surviving without issue for 1 month)
Blue Damsel (Not Surviving, tried 3 times, survived only less than a week)
Yellow Belly Clown (Not Surviving, tried 3 times, survived only less than a week)
Seabae Clown (Not Surviving, tried 3 times survived only less than a week)
Smoke Angel ((Not Surviving, tried 1 time survived only 1 weeks)
Redtail butterflyfish(Not Surviving, tried 1 time, survived only 2 weeks)
Algae Octopus (Not Surviving, treid 1 time - only survived 2 weeks)
Star Fish Red Lynthia (Not Surviving, tried 2 times - only survived for 2 days)


Please note always the ratio of fishes has been in the tank like only 5-6 fishes.

Please advise which parameter i have to look into.

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Your water tests are fine - spot on in fact.

With only one exception, if you have fish that are dying, but the invertebrates are living fine, it is not a water quality issue. That exception is dissolved oxygen. If the tank has good aeration, you can rule that out. The octopus and red starfish dying is likely related to them being more delicate in captivity than other invertebrates.

I would say your fish dying is linked to lack of proper quarantine and/or poor quality fish to begin with.

Here is a link to our current quarantine protocol:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/
Jay