Hey guys it’s been a while since my last post, to sum it up I got my tank and was filling it with water when I found out I had to move, couldn’t have the tank in the new house, bought a house we close December 7th. Ok so I’m gonna set up the display upstairs in the main living area and do the sump downstairs, I’ve decided to get another cor-15 return pump to go with the one I have already to compensate for the increased head pressure of pumping water upstairs. What I’m thinking about now is how do I keep the sump from flooding if the power goes out with all the water that will be in the drain pipes without running a super low water level in the sump? I’m planning on doing trident method so I want as big of a fuge as I can get. I was thinking a drain hole in the sump if the level gets too high maybe but not sure exactly how I should accomplish that.
Overflow soloution for downstairs sump
- Thread starter Jake Watson
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Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Should be no different than a sump under the DT. Returns to the DT, have them stop just under the water line. That way if the power is off, the returns will break syphon. The amount that drains down to the sump will be small.
Ron Reefman
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I had a drain hole at the top edge of the side of the sump/refugium and ran a hose from there to the outside of our house. In your case you could run it to a drain.
The alternative is to have a big enough sump/refugium that it can absorb all the water in those long pipes that run to the tank on the next floor up.
Good luck.
The alternative is to have a big enough sump/refugium that it can absorb all the water in those long pipes that run to the tank on the next floor up.
Good luck.
lapin
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And as flipper said, make your returns high in the water or drill some syphon breaks in them so not much tank water flows back into the sump
dwest
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My pipes to the basement hold a negligible about of water compared to the volume of my system. I’m surprised you would need to run the sump level much lower with 2 pumps vs 1.
Cor 15 has 14 feet max head. Not going to work. On any dc pump, not going to work. May for 6 mos a year, then you will wish you bought a pump that is hi pressure rated, like panworld or iwaki.
As Flipper said it should work the same as if the sump was under stand. You should have a siphon break on return line. You should simulate a power outage and measure how much sump level increases, then establish a max fill line in sump with that calculation.
Good luck with build, post up some pics!
As Flipper said it should work the same as if the sump was under stand. You should have a siphon break on return line. You should simulate a power outage and measure how much sump level increases, then establish a max fill line in sump with that calculation.
Good luck with build, post up some pics!
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
I agree. Pressure rated pump is best. Running two non pressure rated pumps, even in tandem, will not work. The amount of flow, even if done, will be very small and will be a disappointment. Longevity of the DC pumps will be reduced running that much head pressure.
I run a basement sump. I run a panworld 150PS with around 13' of head for a turnover rate at 3x and still have enough pressure leftover to run a simple manifold.
I know lots of folks are against check valves however there are still many who do use these. Put one close to the return pump and check it often to ensure it's properly working and clean it out when necessary.. oops, sorry thought u were referring to the return line ... just reread the op.
Do you have a picture of this because that’s what I was thinking about doing.
So with the cor-15 I pretty much have to go under the sump?
Ron Reefman
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This is the best I can do. It's the bulkhead inside the red square. Ijust drilled a hole as close to the top of the sump as I could and still fit a bulkhead and it's flange. Then ran a pipe slightly downhill, through the concrete wall of the house and out into the lanai. Drilling the hole in the block wall was the hardest part. I had to rent a hammer drill bit from Home Depot and my first try at a hole I hit a chunk of rebar and had to try again a few inches off to the side and then fill the first hole with concrete. I inserted a PVC pipe into the hole as a liner and glued it in place with 3M 5200 marine adhesive. Then the plumbing line, small enough to fit inside the PVC pine liner, didn't chaff on the concrete. It's worked for over 10 years now. Flush a little saltwater through it to make sure it flows OK and the salt that dries inside the pipe will keep the bugs out... they don't like the salt.
On my new system I set the sump inside a watertight box made from sheet PVC and put a bulkhead in it rather than in the sump itself.
This is the PVC box or tray I made to set the sump in.
Here is the sump inside the PVC tray. BTW the sheet PVC is glued with PVC cement and clamped for 4 hours, then I siliconed all if the inside seams and screwed with coarse drywall screws.
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Yup, not just cor. Think any dc pump that’s currently on the market. On one of my builds that had 13’ head I first tried a Jebao that was rated for 21 feet. Worked ok at first, 6 mos later was a trickle. Then tried e-flux, way oversized, same result. Then drilled sump, installed external panworld, that was about 2 years ago with absolutely no loss in flow.
Buy it once and be done.
As far as drilling sump with emergency overflow is not necessary with proper set up and precautions.
And one way valve on saltwater tank is not reliable. Drill a hole on return line to serve as a siphon break. Failsafe and free
Btw, fwiw, am a big fan of dc pumps, just not for hi head applications. As well, am a big fan of basement sumps. Easier maintenance, keeps smells, mess and noise away from more easily damaged living space, and usually has less limitations on space.
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