Phosphate reduction with seaklear lanthanum

[Reefahholic]

Thanks for looking out for me! The difference is I am not dosing all of it. I just create an equivalence bottle of phosphate Rx, then use that according to the calculator in my link above , so that bottle can last a month, depending on phosphate releasing from my rocks. As of now, with the phosphate Rx bottle that I bought, I only use few drops per day. Thanks again

Best of luck. Be careful.

 

[Reefahholic]

If possible, avoid dropping PO4 by more than .05 ppm daily if SPS in the system. Definitely no more than .08. I know you can and people do it, but It’s just too much of a swing/ destabilizing event. Not healthy for the tank.

IMO, reefers should avoid dosing Lanthanum Chloride in 2024. Why? Because you can accomplish the same result with the amazing equipment we have today, controlled feeding, natural bacteria, and utilizing a carbon source. Not only will you be feeding the system, but you’ll be promoting stability. Lanthanum is a pollutant that’s likely to build up over time, and isn’t healthy for the corals.

 

[hdngo]

If possible, avoid dropping PO4 by more than .05 ppm daily if SPS in the system. Definitely no more than .08. I know you can and people do it, but It’s just too much of a swing/ destabilizing event. Not healthy for the tank.

IMO, reefers should avoid dosing Lanthanum Chloride in 2024. Why? Because you can accomplish the same result with the amazing equipment we have today, controlled feeding, natural bacteria, and utilizing a carbon source. Not only will you be feeding the system, but you’ll be promoting stability. Lanthanum is a pollutant that’s likely to build up over time, and isn’t healthy for the corals.

I have a lot of bio media and carbon dosing, but carbon dosing lower nitrate more and can’t lower phosphate after some initial lowering , and had been running GFO, but it’s just to expensive and I hate the brown stuff collecting in the Refugium. That’s why I want to start LaCl3. Thanks

 

[Reefahholic]

Controlled feeding, Skimmer, Rock, Bacteria, Organic Carbon, done.

No pollutants. :-)

 

[hdngo]

Controlled feeding, Skimmer, Rock, Bacteria, Organic Carbon, done.

No pollutants. :)

I wonder what I am doing wrong. I do have a lot of fishes for 90 gallons DT and 30 gallons sump though. In fact, I just start a new thread on FB for my lawnmower blenny, because I am worry that he may not have enough food because of my new control feeding, . thanks

 

[punchy7080]

I wonder what I am doing wrong. I do have a lot of fishes for 90 gallons DT and 30 gallons sump though. In fact, I just start a new thread on FB for my lawnmower blenny, because I am worry that he may not have enough food because of my new control feeding, . thanks

Not doing anything “wrong”. Every system is different. I’d love to not dose LC but nothing else I’ve tried controls the phosphate levels in my tank. If used correctly LC is very effective. Lots of successful tanks that use this approach.

 

[Reefahholic]

I wonder what I am doing wrong. I do have a lot of fishes for 90 gallons DT and 30 gallons sump though. In fact, I just start a new thread on FB for my lawnmower blenny, because I am worry that he may not have enough food because of my new control feeding, . thanks

Try to increase your export more w/o dosing Lanthanum. I’m assuming you’re fighting the Phosphates the most.? Maybe install a ATS. Or pick a good bacteria like Waste Away. Dose only 1/8 dose on a pump and spread it out over the course of a day. Feed it with organic carbon.

Let’s take Coral Euphoria for example since he’s well known in the hobby. This is what he’s feeding to 450/G daily. Many reefers feed 5-10x this amount and believe it’s normal, but most have a difficult time exporting all the food. Personally, I feed based on nutrient levels and what’s going on in the system.

If your tank is young, it could be lacking the maturity needed to help process all the waste. The microbial community may not be up for the task. Maybe they are starved, lack enough trace elements, or depleted. Feed them and give the traces needed to double and triple.

Reach out on Facebook “Reefahholic Houston”, and I can help lead you in the right direction if you’re interested. Measured feeding is good, but when the bacteria population gets large enough, you can feed more, and the corals benefit much more.

 

[Reefahholic]

Not doing anything “wrong”. Every system is different. I’d love to not dose LC but nothing else I’ve tried controls the phosphate levels in my tank. If used correctly LC is very effective. Lots of successful tanks that use this approach.

How does phosphate get into a system? :)

“We” add it.

If we add them, we also have the ability to control them. That could be by reducing the fish load, controlled feeding, or increasing nutrient export. This is 2024. Many systems are completely stripped of nutrients due to the amazing equipment we have today. If you’re fighting nutrients, it’s time to take a step back and consider another approach. They are much better options than Lanthanum Chloride.

Btw…I do not dose it anymore and haven’t in 6-8 years or so. If I can do it, anybody can do it.

 

[areefer01]

Thank you very much. I actually have good results so far with the phosphate Rx that I bought. So if my formula is right , it’s just continuing of what I am doing. I like to create the phosphate Rx equivalent because of the readily available calculator by Larry. Thanks again!

http://larryl.emailplus.org.user.fm/fish/dosing-instructions-phosphate-removers.html

The problem isn't the calculator. The calculator is nothing more than providing a front end, UI, to the recommended dosing guidelines from the product (instructions).

You state: 5.2ml of Seaklear lanthanum to mix with 25ml of RODI to make a 30ml bottle of phosphate Rx.

How did you come up with that formula/ratio? As mentioned earlier you can take a gallon of water, run the math on the calculator, and see how close it is. I would not test on your display.

 

[espinobj]

I know it’s been a while and I’m reviving an old post but this thread helped me and maybe some of my experimentation can help other people.

I decided to use SeaKlear and diluted it to a rate of 2.7ml : 200ml RODI
If my math is correct, 10ml of this ‘stock solution’ should reduce phosphate by 0.05ppm in my 250gal system.
About 3 hours after a 25ml stock solution dos I didn’t see a decrease in phosphate. Tangs (including achilles. Powder blue, blue, yellow and several others) all seem fine.
I’ll test again at the 12 hour 24 hour and 48 hour mark before I dos again to see if maybe there is some delay in seeing an impact on test results.

 

[|FATHOM|]

I know it’s been a while and I’m reviving an old post but this thread helped me and maybe some of my experimentation can help other people.

I decided to use SeaKlear and diluted it to a rate of 2.7ml : 200ml RODI
If my math is correct, 10ml of this ‘stock solution’ should reduce phosphate by 0.05ppm in my 250gal system.
About 3 hours after a 25ml stock solution dos I didn’t see a decrease in phosphate. Tangs (including achilles. Powder blue, blue, yellow and several others) all seem fine.
I’ll test again at the 12 hour 24 hour and 48 hour mark before I dos again to see if maybe there is some delay in seeing an impact on test results.

Any update on your results?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Hi @Randy Holmes-Farley
I have been dosing phosphate Rx to reduce my phosphate, without problems with my fishes (including yellow tang and wrasses). But I think my rocks keep releasing phosphate, I am almost done with the phosphateRx bottle. I would like to to use Seaklear phosphate remover next, but I can’t find a formula for that. Is there a safe way to use that? I found some post on diluting with RODI and slow dosing, but for now, I just want to use the dropper. Thanks

I don’t have a recipe for it. I do have a lanthanum recipe here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-lanthanum-dosing.969669/

 

[Robert Minett]

I agree, I mix 7ml of seaklear to 1 gallon and dose that at a continuous rate of 0.35 ml/min (504ml per day) in a 370g system. That lasts roughly a week and it knocks my phosphate down from 0.7 to 0.4.

I don't know why certain people kill off their entire fish population with this brand, perhaps they don't dilute it enough, but 7ml a week seems to work for me. @hdngo be extremely cautious with your diluting.

From reading your post, would it be safe to say that if I doubled the dose of seaklear in a gallon and ran at the same drip rate that I would go from .4 to .1 in a 650 gallon tank? Could you help me out with safe calculation?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

From reading your post, would it be safe to say that if I doubled the dose of seaklear in a gallon and ran at the same drip rate that I would go from .4 to .1 in a 650 gallon tank? Could you help me out with safe calculation?

One can only determine how much will be bound, not how much will remain in solution after a substantial amount desorbs from rock and sand to replace the phosphate you removed.

 

[Robert Minett]

One can only determine how much will be bound, not how much will remain in solution after a substantial amount desorbs from rock and sand to replace the phosphate you removed.

So, this is what I've tried this past week. Started with a gallon of RODI and 10ml of SeaKlear and dosing at a rate of 30ml per hr. After 48hrs of no changes I added 10ml of Seaklear and upped dosing to 40ml an hr. Saw a .02 drop from .4 to .38. Thought things were heading in the right direction until the next P04 test ran 24 hrs later. Went back up to .4 and has stayed like this for 2 more days. It is time to refill the gallon of RODI today and I'm not sure which direction to take, adding more Seaklear and dosing slower, or keeping Seaklear the same and dosing faster? Could use some help so I don't kill my tank.

650 gallon water volume. Want to achieve a .08 to .12 consistent P04.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

So, this is what I've tried this past week. Started with a gallon of RODI and 10ml of SeaKlear and dosing at a rate of 30ml per hr. After 48hrs of no changes I added 10ml of Seaklear and upped dosing to 40ml an hr. Saw a .02 drop from .4 to .38. Thought things were heading in the right direction until the next P04 test ran 24 hrs later. Went back up to .4 and has stayed like this for 2 more days. It is time to refill the gallon of RODI today and I'm not sure which direction to take, adding more Seaklear and dosing slower, or keeping Seaklear the same and dosing faster? Could use some help so I don't kill my tank.

650 gallon water volume. Want to achieve a .08 to .12 consistent P04.

As I noted, you cannot calculate how much is needed. If you really want to drop phosphate more, I would dose more each day.

If you do drop phosphate, let us know what happens to corals and such.

 

[Robert Minett]

As I noted, you cannot calculate how much is needed. If you really want to drop phosphate more, I would dose more each day.

If you do drop phosphate, let us know what happens to corals and such.

And I read that. You did say though that the amount of uptake can be calculated. I don't understand where to start with that formula. I see all these other posts where people are saying they add X amount to a gallon of RODI and dosed at X ml rate and are reporting progress. You can't tell me they just pulled a number out of the air and went with it? There's got to be a way to get a suggestable starting point and a way of deciding which way to go once results take affect with the amount of people that I see are either doing this or have done this.

 

[Robert Minett]

Any update on your results?

How did you decide on your solution mix? Like where did you come up with 2.7ml of Seaklear to 200ml of RODI? Same with dosing rate?