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Pictures: Dino or Cyano?

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vetteguy53081

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Hard to tell under heavy blue lights but both have similar behavior but cyano is more of a bacteria
For either, reduce white light intensity a little and add cleaner crew such as:
Nassarius snails
Turbo snails
Astrea snails
Nerite snails
8 blue leg hermits

keep an eye on phosphate levels and I assume you’re using RO water? If so- check TDS of RO or if tap water- add some RO in place
ChemiClean works well on cyano also
 
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blackstallion

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Hard to tell under heavy blue lights but both have similar behavior but cyano is more of a bacteria
For either, reduce white light intensity a little and add cleaner crew such as:
Nassarius snails
Turbo snails
Astrea snails
Nerite snails
8 blue leg hermits

keep an eye on phosphate levels and I assume you’re using RO water? If so- check TDS of RO or if tap water- add some RO in place
ChemiClean works well on cyano also
I have Nassarius, Trochus, Bubble Bee and Cerith snails. In addition, blue and red hermits and 2 conch's.

I will turn off the white light channels. What about the red and green, any affect on dino or cyano?
 

Jjhart6987

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Buy a cheap microscope to confirm, it doesn't have to be an expensive one I got mine for about £8 and it does 300, 600 and 1200x magnification. For the sake of 5minutes it could save you in the long run
 

DrMMI

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I have Nassarius, Trochus, Bubble Bee and Cerith snails. In addition, blue and red hermits and 2 conch's.

I will turn off the white light channels. What about the red and green, any affect on dino or cyano?
I would dose nitrates if you're not already. I'm fighting dinos and also had to go fallow. When I did, I had a hard time maintaining nitrates without fish poop and my dinos kept getting worse.
 
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vetteguy53081

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I have Nassarius, Trochus, Bubble Bee and Cerith snails. In addition, blue and red hermits and 2 conch's.

I will turn off the white light channels. What about the red and green, any affect on dino or cyano?
As with chaeto, red can promote algae and similar
Bring it down to 3-4%
 
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blackstallion

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Here's what's it's looking like now. I've only been running blue/violet/UV/Purple light channels for the last several days.

Is this a "run away" train if I don't intervene? Is it worth trying to treat for Cyano? Do I start dosing Nitrates if they're to low?

20200920_180445.jpg
 
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blackstallion

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The other day I scooped up most of the red area's but it was back within a day or two. I ordered some NeoNitro and Chemiclean.

Questions;

1) Should I dose Chemiclean first and then start dosing the Nitrates after the treatment? Do them concurrently? Dose only NeoNitrate first? I feel like I'll just be feeding the Cyano if I start dosing Nitrates without taking care of the Cyano first, although I don't know if this true.
2) With Chemiclean, the directions state to perform a 25% WC after 48 hours, is this necessary? On my 200g+ system, that's a significant WC. I have the RO/DI and reservoir to perform that type of WC, just want to make sure that's common practice and necessary.

Right now the tank is in month 2 of fallow period with no fish, so will have about another 1.5 months to go fallow. I plan on definitely dosing nitrates until I get fish back in, but just wanted to see if doing Chemiclean first is the way to go.
 

Dan_P

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The other day I scooped up most of the red area's but it was back within a day or two. I ordered some NeoNitro and Chemiclean.

Questions;

1) Should I dose Chemiclean first and then start dosing the Nitrates after the treatment? Do them concurrently? Dose only NeoNitrate first? I feel like I'll just be feeding the Cyano if I start dosing Nitrates without taking care of the Cyano first, although I don't know if this true.
2) With Chemiclean, the directions state to perform a 25% WC after 48 hours, is this necessary? On my 200g+ system, that's a significant WC. I have the RO/DI and reservoir to perform that type of WC, just want to make sure that's common practice and necessary.

Right now the tank is in month 2 of fallow period with no fish, so will have about another 1.5 months to go fallow. I plan on definitely dosing nitrates until I get fish back in, but just wanted to see if doing Chemiclean first is the way to go.
Dosing nitrates is a long term remedy which may not work for you.

Since the system is empty of wildlife (right? Or lots of coral but no fish?), dose Chemiclean to see if you can stop the growth. I have no idea why the manufacturer recommends a 25% water change. This removes only 25% of the dose, and that does what? The othe 75% is somehow rendered harmless? It is a common practice but you could take the risk of skipping it with an empty system.
 
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blackstallion

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Dosing nitrates is a long term remedy which may not work for you.

Since the system is empty of wildlife (right? Or lots of coral but no fish?), dose Chemiclean to see if you can stop the growth. I have no idea why the manufacturer recommends a 25% water change. This removes only 25% of the dose, and that does what? The othe 75% is somehow rendered harmless? It is a common practice but you could take the risk of skipping it with an empty system.
Yea, I was wondering the same regarding HOW a 25% WC would help.

The system is empty now AND I do not have a ton of high demanding coral. I have some LPS and sofies but minimal.

In practice, how are reefers taking the Chemiclean OUT of the water? WC's? Wet skimming? And what is the risk of leaving it longer term?
 

Dan_P

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Yea, I was wondering the same regarding HOW a 25% WC would help.

The system is empty now AND I do not have a ton of high demanding coral. I have some LPS and sofies but minimal.

In practice, how are reefers taking the Chemiclean OUT of the water? WC's? Wet skimming? And what is the risk of leaving it longer term?
Skimming and GAC can remove it, as does WC, but no one has actually studied its removal as far as I know or whether it is even detrimental. I also suspect it is subject to bacterial degradation.
 

SMSREEF

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The other day I scooped up most of the red area's but it was back within a day or two. I ordered some NeoNitro and Chemiclean.

Questions;

1) Should I dose Chemiclean first and then start dosing the Nitrates after the treatment? Do them concurrently? Dose only NeoNitrate first? I feel like I'll just be feeding the Cyano if I start dosing Nitrates without taking care of the Cyano first, although I don't know if this true.
2) With Chemiclean, the directions state to perform a 25% WC after 48 hours, is this necessary? On my 200g+ system, that's a significant WC. I have the RO/DI and reservoir to perform that type of WC, just want to make sure that's common practice and necessary.

Right now the tank is in month 2 of fallow period with no fish, so will have about another 1.5 months to go fallow. I plan on definitely dosing nitrates until I get fish back in, but just wanted to see if doing Chemiclean first is the way to go.
I had cyano in one of my tanks that I could not get rid of with suctioning it out. It would come right back.
I suctioned as much out as I could, then used chemiclean, waited a few day and did a large water change. It was more than 25%.
Never had a cyano problem after that.
 

vetteguy53081

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Cyano - Reduce white light brightness a little and add a few nassarius snails and blue leg hermits to break this up. Siphon as needed and what water source are you using (RO or Tap from Faucet) ?
 
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blackstallion

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Dosing nitrates is a long term remedy which may not work for you.

Since the system is empty of wildlife (right? Or lots of coral but no fish?), dose Chemiclean to see if you can stop the growth. I have no idea why the manufacturer recommends a 25% water change. This removes only 25% of the dose, and that does what? The othe 75% is somehow rendered harmless? It is a common practice but you could take the risk of skipping it with an empty system.
It just dawned on me that the reason a large WC (20% is actually recommended on the box) is recommend is probably as a safety in the case you had a bad case of Cyano and the associated die off could substantially raise toxic ammonia levels...just a theory.
 
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blackstallion

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Cyano - Reduce white light brightness a little and add a few nassarius snails and blue leg hermits to break this up. Siphon as needed and what water source are you using (RO or Tap from Faucet) ?
I've turned off the white, red and green light channels on my Radions until this passes.

I have Nassarius and blue leg hermit's but they don't seem to touch the Cyano.

I'm using RO/DI for water source.
 

vetteguy53081

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I've turned off the white, red and green light channels on my Radions until this passes.

I have Nassarius and blue leg hermit's but they don't seem to touch the Cyano.

I'm using RO/DI for water source.
Any idea what your RO TDS is and your phophate level is today?
 
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blackstallion

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I ran Chemiclean and it seemed to clear up that red slime, but, now I'm battling the below.

I ran the Hydrogen Peroxide test on the strands you see on the back wall and no noticeable bubbles formed in the flask that weren't already there (as you see there are A LOT of bubbles forming in the tank). According to the thread Dino's thread, this is indicative of Dino's correct? I couldn't get any amount of slime off of that rock you see in the foreground to test, but I assume it's the same as what you see on the back wall.

Nitrates are 0 and Phosphates are very low as well, last tested at 0.02. Right now the tank is fallow for another couple weeks due to an outbreak I had last month. Once fish are back in, I expect Nitrates and Phosphates will go back up.

Right now I have the tank covered up with a sheet for a 3 day blackout.

I also ordered some Dino X that should be here Friday.

I've also read people stating a raise in temperate to 82 helped eradicate Dinos? Any merit to this?

20201013_130452.jpg
20201013_130510.jpg
20201013_130526.jpg
 
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