Sand/tank RIP clean - During - After - Updates

Cwentz758

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I’m guessing that’s what this is. So some of you know I’ve posted some threads about diatoms in my established tank. I can’t rid them for the life of me with water changes and 2-5 ppm nitrate and .3 to .10 phosphate. My tank itself is stable and looks good except for this dang brown sand.

so the plan. I’ve got some big Rubbermaid containers I plan to drain the tank down into the containers, well about half the water. Add the rocks to the containers with the corals after scrubbing any brown algae and other junk off.

once the rocks are in going to take the sand and get it into a bucket and rinse it clean. After that re add the sand and rock along with the old water with the fish then have the rest pre mixed water go in after.

also during the breakdown I’ll be trying to remove as many Asternia star fish as possible. They’re slowly killing my GSP....

If there’s any thing I’m doing wrong or not a good idea I’m listening. Really didn’t want to do this but I thought about vibrant. But I feel like this is quicker and more instant on the cleaning.
 

KrisReef

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Try to keep the water warm, and new water should match old parameters- nutrients as best as you can.
It may take a few rinses with fresh water to remove the fines from the sand but if you are diligent your new reef should sparkle.
Oh and take before and after picture
 
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Cwentz758

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Also tested for silicates in my RO water container. Got a .1 to .25 reading so I came across a good grade container that I’ll fill before starting, unless it’s coming out of my RODI system. But that’s coming out 0 TDS
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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The key hidden factor in the few times people have messed up the process was incomplete rinse of sand.
they thought it was killing critical bacteria, we must wash the sand in tap water until it’s 100% clean, then you stack in rocks swished in saltwater only


rocks are swished in old tank water


what you do to the sand with tap water doesn’t matter, we don’t need sandbed bac. We only need rock bacteria.


that arrangement will skip cycle reassemble.

move no detritus to the new reef whether in rocks or sand, and the process is 100% repeatable tank to tank without a recycle.

I rip clean my 14 yr nano just to join in the work, there’s nothing wrong with the tank requiring a rip clean. I subject my delicate system to full disassembly cleaning to participate equally.


thats three years on that particular Sandbed. Blast rinse keeps it new, sharp.
a bunch of coral is sitting on the counter, in air, on dinner plates.
my corals aren’t given the luxury of water :)

I stack the rocks and corals back on this pristine sand, but last rinse is RO

to evacuate tap.

*drop your new tank light intensity and ramp back up. Don’t run full light power on new tank, re ramp, trick from the sr thread to prevent bleaching.
 
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Cwentz758

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The key hidden factor in the few times people have messed up the process was incomplete rinse of sand.
they thought it was killing critical bacteria, we must wash the sand in tap water until it’s 100% clean, then you stack in rocks swished in saltwater only


rocks are swished in old tank water


what you do to the sand with tap water doesn’t matter, we don’t need sandbed bac. We only need rock bacteria.


that arrangement will skip cycle reassemble.

move no detritus to the new reef whether in rocks or sand, and the process is 100% repeatable tank to tank without a recycle.

I rip clean my 14 yr nano just to join in the work, there’s nothing wrong with the tank requiring a rip clean. I subject my delicate system to full disassembly cleaning to participate equally.


thats three years on that particular Sandbed. Blast rinse keeps it new, sharp.
a bunch of coral is sitting on the counter, in air, on dinner plates.
my corals aren’t given the luxury of water :)

I stack the rocks and corals back on this pristine sand, but last rinse is RO

to evacuate tap.

*drop your new tank light intensity and ramp back up. Don’t run full light power on new tank, re ramp, trick from the sr thread to prevent bleaching.

I’ll just run the Red Sea acclimation Schedule for the lights.
 
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Cwentz758

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The key hidden factor in the few times people have messed up the process was incomplete rinse of sand.
they thought it was killing critical bacteria, we must wash the sand in tap water until it’s 100% clean, then you stack in rocks swished in saltwater only


rocks are swished in old tank water


what you do to the sand with tap water doesn’t matter, we don’t need sandbed bac. We only need rock bacteria.


that arrangement will skip cycle reassemble.

move no detritus to the new reef whether in rocks or sand, and the process is 100% repeatable tank to tank without a recycle.

I rip clean my 14 yr nano just to join in the work, there’s nothing wrong with the tank requiring a rip clean. I subject my delicate system to full disassembly cleaning to participate equally.


thats three years on that particular Sandbed. Blast rinse keeps it new, sharp.
a bunch of coral is sitting on the counter, in air, on dinner plates.
my corals aren’t given the luxury of water :)

I stack the rocks and corals back on this pristine sand, but last rinse is RO

to evacuate tap.

*drop your new tank light intensity and ramp back up. Don’t run full light power on new tank, re ramp, trick from the sr thread to prevent bleaching.

Last rock rinse is RO or last sand rinse?
 

sixty_reefer

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Also tested for silicates in my RO water container. Got a .1 to .25 reading so I came across a good grade container that I’ll fill before starting, unless it’s coming out of my RODI system. But that’s coming out 0 TDS

I was going to mention to check your silica, if you are getting silica readings on your ro this break down might be pointless.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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It would serve as removal of target mass and sandbed detritus, extending the overall lifespan of the system. Cleaned out rocks have better surface area exposure and they’re able to express detritus into the system without being plugged by accumulation.

reef tanks shine brightly after a deep waste removal.

Done preventatively it works great.
 

sixty_reefer

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The other question if I’m getting 0 TDS does it come from the container? Or do I need new filters?

Silicate will not show up well on a TDS meter unless the ph is high enough to form silicate (Si(OH)3O-; ph above about 9). Otherwise, it will mostly be in the form of silicic acid, Si(OH)4, which is not conductive. The ph of ro water is around 7
 
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Cwentz758

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Going to test the RODI in another container for silicate. But either way here are some before pics of the tank. The last one of the GSP looking at it about a month ago that whole rock was covered, since then it’s unstuck itself to the rocks and the coralline is going away. dang asterina stars are going to meet the maker tomorrow.

A88C24FF-4768-4289-A7FF-2569660E5A5D.jpeg 2247BD61-2FEB-4C91-972E-2A3ADB1573AE.jpeg FE053801-DDE9-45CC-8623-DCDDCFD89486.jpeg ADC08622-3260-4AF8-B181-CF90B1E20F90.jpeg
 
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Cwentz758

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Ok emergency in the final stage of this clean tank is empty.... there’s salt creep behind the glass between the rim as pictured. Seal looks good I’ve never leaked water or seen salt creep outside. Is this from the years of water over the glass here and there or is this a giant risk to refill????

D2F39919-C341-41A5-A1D4-E588541780AE.jpeg E6401CD2-2213-4BC2-BC91-66DC0BC8CE55.jpeg
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Team I'm not good with seams/ what do you guys think? Surely it's ok? Glad we ended up checking
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Substrate rinsed nice n perfect, no cloud right? Tap rinsed?

looks very clear
 

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