Please critique my plumbing

[cobray]

I think I've got the return line to the display the way I want it, just needs paint.

The overflow down to the sump needs a gate valve, then some sort of a bracket to hold it in place.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Syntax1235]

Is there a pull on the bulkheads? The pipes don’t look supported. Will this work with only a single drain and no overflow box? I don’t think this design will work. Looks like a flood waiting to happen.

The bulkheads are backwards.

You shouldn’t need silicone on bulkheads.

Ball valves need to face front of the tank in order for you to reach them.

Just a few thoughts.

Edit: just saw the comment about bracing and paint…. But where will you put the support?

 

[cobray]

Yes, the pipes are not supported. Suggestions?

I can add another drain, where do you suggest I drill?

I put silicone on the one bulkhead at the suggestion of another member because I had chipped the glass while drilling. Then I figured I might as well hit them both.

I'll get the valves where I can reach them.

Thank you for the input. I want to get this right on the first try.

My main concern at the moment is supporting the dangling pipes. Anyone have an idea as to how I should support them?

Thanks!

 

[Reefering1]

Agree with everything above and will add that I like to use pvc/vinyl tubing section to connect to the pump. Cuts down on vibration/ resonation from pump, particularly once you secure piping to stand. Any plans for emergency drain line?

 

[Syntax1235]

I would use both your holes as returns and install a modular marine overflow box…. You will need to drill two more holes, but you are given a template.

Support with strapping of sorts at the bottom of your tank attached to the stand.

I would use flex pvc for return plumbing, easier to position. 3/4 inch is very flexible and not very expensive.

IMO, you holes are cut too low. When there is a power outage, a lot of water can/will drain into the sump from your return line. That check valve will fail. You may be able to remedy some of this by an upward facing elbow to get it closer to the top of the tank.


Sorry to keep bringing things up. It’s better to deal with things now instead of with your insurance company later.

 

[Reefering1]

You can use a metal strap wrapped around the pipe secured to stand. Placed under the valve or a union so that it actually supports the pipe rather than just holding it close

 

[cobray]

I appreciate the input.

I'll get some flex hose for the return line.

I have the siphon style overflow box, but don't want to use it since the siphon will fail, that's why I started drilling.

How does this box look? Or should I get one that requires 2 holes?

 

[cilyjr]

Yes support your plumbing using straps at the stand.
Your bulkheads are technically backwards but they will work this way if you've got your heart set on it.

If you are going to use 1 as a drain like this I would not turn it into a siphon. I would make a good old fashioned external durso and control turn over with either a dc pump or an old fashioned diverter in the return.

 

[cilyjr]

This is what an old fashioned external durso looks like.
Be aware it will only handle a certain amount of water volume, but will be more reliable than a siphon. This is why people use two or three standpipes when they are using a siphon drain.
Edit: do not put a gate valve on a durso overflow drain. Those are for siphon overflows.

 

[Syntax1235]

I appreciate the input.

I'll get some flex hose for the return line.

I have the siphon style overflow box, but don't want to use it since the siphon will fail, that's why I started drilling.

How does this box look? Or should I get one that requires 2 holes?

Yes, that could work. Your tank 60ish gallons? Check out modular marine and you can go with a true bean animal drain.

 

[BOYERZ]

Sorry. No this will not work, I'll give you an A for effort. Unless you want a flood the minimum is 2 drains. I can post pics of mine if you want.

Look into the herbie drain and bean animal drain.

 

[cobray]

This is what an old fashioned external durso looks like.
Be aware it will only handle a certain amount of water volume, but will be more reliable than a siphon. This is why people use two or three standpipes when they are using a siphon drain.
Edit: do not put a gate valve on a durso overflow drain. Those are for siphon overflows.

Thank you for the reply and diagram.
Modular marine isn't taking orders at the moment so ordering a bean animal box might have to wait.

 

[cilyjr]

Sorry. No this will not work, I'll give you an A for effort. Unless you want a flood the minimum is 2 drains. I can post pics of mine if you want.

This is incorrect. Many of us ran single drains through the '90s and early 2000s. The common drain was a durso drain. You will not have a gate valve on it.

Before DC pumps were common we controlled the flow by placing a t coming off of the return pump that returned water back to the sump. Opening that poured less water into the display tank. Closing it put more water into the display tank.

A 1 in dorso drain with a strainer on the end is difficult to clog.

 

[BOYERZ]

Not gonna work, he seems new at this. Show him the new way.

 

[cobray]

Wondering if I can convert this by drilling it (and the glass) and putting 2 bulkheads through.
Anyone ever try something like that?

 

[cobray]

Sorry. No this will not work, I'll give you an A for effort. Unless you want a flood the minimum is 2 drains. I can post pics of mine if you want.

Look into the herbie drain and bean animal drain.

Yes, please post pics.

 

[BOYERZ]

I use the herbie with a diy overflow. You'll have to piece the pics together and if you want more info feel free to pm. Happy reefing!

 

[cilyjr]

If you want a siphon drain system then by all means, do one!
Doing a search on either the Herbie or bean animal overflow will provide all the information you need.
However, it is not necessary and it would be unlikely to have a flood with a properly made durso and pump combo.

The purpose of the siphon overflow system is to move large volumes of water. It's especially helpful to people who have large systems who want a greater sump to display tank turn over rate. For people with smaller systems, moving a large volume of water from one tank to the other may not be beneficial. Do a search on sump and skimmer dwell time.

The tank you have has a hole in each upper corner. This was pretty common about 25 years ago and you will still see this in a lot of aquarium stores. The disadvantage do not having an overflow box is you will not get surface skimming, not to be confused with protein skimming which is a completely different aspect. The other is when the return pump is off, the entire display will drain to the level of the stand pipe, which may not be an issue if you're sump has enough extra space to handle that volume of water.

I personally would not have drilled there, but that's what you are working with. The external durso provides a cost-effective option for draining to the sump.

If this were my tank, I would build an overflow box where one of those holes were and then a second external box to run the drain line or lines out of. I do not know how handy you are at working with glass or acrylic.
Someone above suggested using both of those holes as return lines and drilling a new third hole probably somewhere in the middle for a modular drain system, there are several on the market now. That's probably the next best option.

 

[BOYERZ]

Durso is dead. Unless you want a loud tank. Water rushing, water trickling, water dripping.

Wake up in the middle of the night and have to pee sound.

 

[cobray]

I think I'll go with one of these. It means more drilling, but not a big deal.