Please Help ID

[coralboi56]

Not really entirely sure what these stringy bubbly boys are. Obviously I can only move forward with my tank once i figure out what I have (very well could have more than one algae problem). I've always had algae problems, but this one is real discouraging because I feel like I'm doing everything right this time. Keeping parameters in target, feeding on a schedule, testing PAR, etc, but yet I still have a problem.

They seem photosynthetic. They're not as abundant at night, and really only get the bubbles mid day.
No coral or fish have died. Only noticeable effect is my zoas won't grow.

Most recent water chems:
Alk: 7.73
Phos: .02
Nitrate: 2ppm
Mag: 1295
Calcium 540

 

[vaguelyreeflike]

This looks a lot like dinoflagellates to me, but a microscope is often necessary for a definite ID. However its following the characteristics of dinos that I have experienced in our systems. I would try to raise nitrates slightly to closer to 5ppm, and see if that helps to outcompete them. Manual removal is always beneficial as well, I just use a siphon hose to manually remove as much as I can and do a small waterchange at the same time. I use Neo Nitro for manually raising nitrates.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Not really entirely sure what these stringy bubbly boys are. Obviously I can only move forward with my tank once i figure out what I have (very well could have more than one algae problem). I've always had algae problems, but this one is real discouraging because I feel like I'm doing everything right this time. Keeping parameters in target, feeding on a schedule, testing PAR, etc, but yet I still have a problem.

They seem photosynthetic. They're not as abundant at night, and really only get the bubbles mid day.
No coral or fish have died. Only noticeable effect is my zoas won't grow.

Most recent water chems:
Alk: 7.73
Phos: .02
Nitrate: 2ppm
Mag: 1295
Calcium 540

These are gas bubbles associated with the start of dino. Often dino is triggered when nutrients are out of balance especially Po4 and no3. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive.
biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed. Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
If it worsens, Prepare by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[coralboi56]

These are gas bubbles associated with the start of dino. Often dino is triggered when nutrients are out of balance especially Po4 and no3. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive.
biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and tank is already doomed. Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
If it worsens, Prepare by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

Follow up question, how did I get Dinos when my Nitrate and Phosphate never hit double 0?

Just trying to know so I don’t ever cause this ugliness again

 

[vetteguy53081]

Follow up question, how did I get Dinos when my Nitrate and Phosphate never hit double 0?

Just trying to know so I don’t ever cause this ugliness again

They dont have to hit zero. Its a core belief that zero is a trigger when in fact the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more.