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The lines are all the way up. The tank was drilled opposite what I wanted. My plan was for the overflow on the left. Return right, but it is what it is. I can make the sump turn around but it makes better sense to leave it as is. Wiring wise and stuff.The only thing I would suggest is removing the 90 degree elbows if possible, especially on the drain. They can cause air pockets to form causing a "flushing toilet" effect from time to time.
I'm assuming your crossing your lines because your sump layout was done before and is opposite of the tank layout. Crossing is going to limit workable space under the stand.
The lines are all the way up. The tank was drilled opposite what I wanted. My plan was for the overflow on the left. Return right, but it is what it is. I can make the sump turn around but it makes better sense to leave it as is. Wiring wise and stuff.The only thing I would suggest is removing the 90 degree elbows if possible, especially on the drain. They can cause air pockets to form causing a "flushing toilet" effect from time to time.
I'm assuming your crossing your lines because your sump layout was done before and is opposite of the tank layout. Crossing is going to limit workable space under the stand.
Doesn’t most drain to sump set ups have 90 degree elbows? How do you have yours set up (pic)? My apologies, trying to learn and understand myself (the more you know).The only thing I would suggest is removing the 90 degree elbows if possible, especially on the drain. They can cause air pockets to form causing a "flushing toilet" effect from time to time.
I'm assuming your crossing your lines because your sump layout was done before and is opposite of the tank layout. Crossing is going to limit workable space under the stand.
Doesn’t most drain to sump set ups have 90 degree elbows? How do you have yours set up (pic)? My apologies, trying to learn and understand myself (the more you know).
Hey thanks for your input. I have a few questions. Why don’t I want a gate valve on emergency? Does having 90 elbow bad for main drain or anywhere else? Would it be better to just hard plumb to sump in regards to main drain? It’s only a 10 gallon sump and I have been building around this filter sock holder, I don’t know why. I won’t be using it to my knowledge. I went out early this morning and took your advice and purchased clamps for the piping. Thank you for that. I also purchased 45 elbows in case of some piping changes. Also, if I plumb straight to first chamber, what do you suggest in regards to filtration. I am doing a refugium and the first chamber will house the skimmer. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.Hello
If I may chime in a few things.
Got the crisscrossing, should not affect anything. The first thing I will mention is the 2 unions below the overflow should be staggered. Next to each other will leave little working room. You do not want a gate on your emergency.
Look for some form of support for the pipes. Right now the only support is the tank. It wI’ll take a bit of engineering and trips to Home Depot, but there are varieties of clamps and other things you can use. Ideally I would look to clamp them down just below the tank where the stand is To that piece of frame
try to use plastic hose clamps to the secure the vinyl to the barbs, if you don’t have them stainless will do but keep an eye on them for corrosion and they cannot be used near or under the water line.
Hope that helps.