Prazipro and wrasses

[nanomania]

Is prazipro safe for all types of wrasses? i have a flasher

 

[melypr1985]

Generally speaking Prazi is safe for most any fish...... HOWEVER... all fish are individuals and may respond to medications differently than the norm. some people have reported some issues with wrasse and prazi, though that is not something I've ever had a problem with and I treat many many wrasses with prazi weekly.
More info on prazi:
Prazipro (praziquantel): Treats flukes, black ich, and some internal parasites (worms).

How To Treat - In either a quarantine or display tank, dose Prazipro at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 20 gallons of water. DO NOT OVERDOSE (especially with wrasses), try not to mix with other medications (for various reasons), and provide additional gas exchange while treating with Prazi. Wait about a week, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. The reason for the second dose is to eradicate the “next generation” of worms before they can lay eggs of their own. Because while Prazi does kill worms, it doesn’t eliminate any eggs they might leave behind.

If you are treating a known prazi sensitive species (ex. wrasse), you can run carbon or perform a water change 24 hours after dosing in order to limit exposure time. While praziquantel does remain active in the water column for up to 72 hours, only 24 hours are needed for it to eradicate external worms. Don't forget to still do the second round though!

Prazipro is generally considered reef safe, although it may kill any tube worms/feathers dusters you have. It may also eradicate bristle worms. If you have mass quantities of these, the resulting die-off can lead to an ammonia spike. After treatment is done, activated carbon may be used to remove any residuals (if you need to use a different medication next). If using a protein skimmer post-treatment, be advised that it will “over skim” for at least a couple of weeks.

Pros - Reef safe, effective dewormer that is relatively gentle on most fish.

Cons/Side Effects - Mild appetite suppression, moderate oxygen depletion, wrasses are sensitive to overdosing.

 

[nanomania]

Generally speaking Prazi is safe for most any fish...... HOWEVER... all fish are individuals and may respond to medications differently than the norm. some people have reported some issues with wrasse and prazi, though that is not something I've ever had a problem with and I treat many many wrasses with prazi weekly.
More info on prazi:
Prazipro (praziquantel): Treats flukes, black ich, and some internal parasites (worms).

How To Treat - In either a quarantine or display tank, dose Prazipro at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 20 gallons of water. DO NOT OVERDOSE (especially with wrasses), try not to mix with other medications (for various reasons), and provide additional gas exchange while treating with Prazi. Wait about a week, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. The reason for the second dose is to eradicate the “next generation” of worms before they can lay eggs of their own. Because while Prazi does kill worms, it doesn’t eliminate any eggs they might leave behind.

If you are treating a known prazi sensitive species (ex. wrasse), you can run carbon or perform a water change 24 hours after dosing in order to limit exposure time. While praziquantel does remain active in the water column for up to 72 hours, only 24 hours are needed for it to eradicate external worms. Don't forget to still do the second round though!

Prazipro is generally considered reef safe, although it may kill any tube worms/feathers dusters you have. It may also eradicate bristle worms. If you have mass quantities of these, the resulting die-off can lead to an ammonia spike. After treatment is done, activated carbon may be used to remove any residuals (if you need to use a different medication next). If using a protein skimmer post-treatment, be advised that it will “over skim” for at least a couple of weeks.

Pros - Reef safe, effective dewormer that is relatively gentle on most fish.

Cons/Side Effects - Mild appetite suppression, moderate oxygen depletion, wrasses are sensitive to overdosing.

Thank you..

 

[pseudorand]

In case someone stumbles upon this thread, I'll throw my vote in the no prazi for wrasses camp. I have only one anecdote and there are other potential causes, but 48h after dosing prazi my 6-line went from looking-good to probably-dead. Never again for me.

 

[Miss_Wilks]

In case someone stumbles upon this thread, I'll throw my vote in the no prazi for wrasses camp. I have only one anecdote and there are other potential causes, but 48h after dosing prazi my 6-line went from looking-good to probably-dead. Never again for me.

Hi, I stumbled across this thread! Lol.
How would you suggest treating wrasse for flukes instead?
I have a Scots fairy wrasse and a Koi fairy wrasse if that makes any difference?

 

[pseudorand]

Hi, I stumbled across this thread! Lol.
How would you suggest treating wrasse for flukes instead?
I have a Scots fairy wrasse and a Koi fairy wrasse if that makes any difference?

I have since joined the no-QT camp, as I've only every had problems with QT. Why do you think the wrasse has flukes? Can you see them and see behavior indicating he's unhealthy, or are you just trying to pre-medicate before introducing the fish into your DT?

My experience has been that putting a fish in a mature, healthy environment is the most likely way for that fish to get better. Turns out half a billion years of evolution makes for a pretty effective immune system. This is not to say I don't believe in infectious disease or that I would ever put a fish I suspected was unhealthy in my DT -- I wouldn't. Just that I've been unable to maintain a QT tank in conditions that won't virtually guarantee any fish, coral or other invert will come down with something, no matter how healthy it looked in the store.

 

[Miss_Wilks]

I have since joined the no-QT camp, as I've only every had problems with QT. Why do you think the wrasse has flukes? Can you see them and see behavior indicating he's unhealthy, or are you just trying to pre-medicate before introducing the fish into your DT?

My experience has been that putting a fish in a mature, healthy environment is the most likely way for that fish to get better. Turns out half a billion years of evolution makes for a pretty effective immune system. This is not to say I don't believe in infectious disease or that I would ever put a fish I suspected was unhealthy in my DT -- I wouldn't. Just that I've been unable to maintain a QT tank in conditions that won't virtually guarantee any fish, coral or other invert will come down with something, no matter how healthy it looked in the store.

My Scotts wrasse was acting quite strange, almost lethargic in the corner of the tank at times and hiding away lying in the rockwork, wasn’t eating very much and was flicking against the sand/rocks, almost like he had a twitch! We noticed some white on him (not ich), my partner did a FW dip and it certainly appeared to be flukes .. He has since been progressively better day by day - out and about more, eating lots more - no weird lethargy in the corners and nowhere near as much of the flicking/twitching .. I’m under the impression a FW dip alone can’t cure flukes though? I’m somewhat new to the hobby, my partner however has been in the hobby for many years with a short break, but he has never experienced flukes before.

 

[pseudorand]

I’m under the impression a FW dip alone can’t cure flukes though?

I thought the theory was that flukes let go of the fish in freshwater and fall off before the freshwater kills the fish. This won't get rid of flukes in other stages of their life cycle, but perhaps get the fish healthy enough to resist when the next batch matures.

That said, I've only ever tried a FW dip once, on an already sick fish when I decided my previous diagnoses were wrong and it must have been flukes. I lost the fish. Obviously you've had more luck.

Are any of your other fish showing signs of flukes? I think I remember wrasses being particularly susceptible.

Prazi is supposedly safe for all but flatworms, but I'm not sure I'd trust it in my DT, even if I were willing to lose my feather dusters (which Hakari warns are at risk with Prazi). It's all a matter of trade-offs and what you're willing to risk though.

Alternatively, if the hypothesis is that the wrasse is susceptible where other fish aren't, you could move the wrasse to a QT with no meds for a few weeks. This site claims eggs hatch in 4-6 days and the flukes must find a host within 6 days. Keep the wrasse out of the tank while that happens and hopefully they all die, breaking the cycle.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I’ve dosed hundreds of wrasse with prazi, as well as many other fish species.There are only three issues: 1) not providing enough aeration to counteract the oxygen depleting effect bacteria has when it breaks down prazi. 2) treating a fish that has flukes so bad that when the prazi knocks the flukes off, the fish bleeds out through the hundreds of holes in its skin. 3) Not timing the doses properly to break the life cycle of egg laying flukes.
Jay

 

[LeftyReefer]

I've never had a problem with prazi and multiple wrasses.
I've never had a problem with prazi with any fish.

I've also never had luck ridding flukes with just 2 treatments. has always taken more. I now treat with prazi for the full 30 days my fish are also in copper.

 

[Spare time]

In case someone stumbles upon this thread, I'll throw my vote in the no prazi for wrasses camp. I have only one anecdote and there are other potential causes, but 48h after dosing prazi my 6-line went from looking-good to probably-dead. Never again for me.

The problem with that is you're arguing using a logical fallacy (arguable the most common one in this hobby). According to the same logic, I ate a sandwich and then my dog proceeded to take a dump on my staircase. Thus, eating a sandwich caused my dog to take a dump on the stairs

 

[Miss_Wilks]

I’ve dosed hundreds of wrasse with prazi, as well as many other fish species.There are only three issues: 1) not providing enough aeration to counteract the oxygen depleting effect bacteria has when it breaks down prazi. 2) treating a fish that has flukes so bad that when the prazi knocks the flukes off, the fish bleeds out through the hundreds of holes in its skin. 3) Not timing the doses properly to break the life cycle of egg laying flukes.
Jay

This is really reassuring .. doing my own research this was exactly my thinking too, then I stumbled across a few that disagreed and I doubted it. Thank you for this!
Abbie

 

[Saltyanimals]

Thanks for the updated data point. I’ve been careful to not prazi wrasses by giving them their own QT with this omitted whereas the other QT gets it. This update saves me a QT tank.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks for the updated data point. I’ve been careful to not prazi wrasses by giving them their own QT with this omitted whereas the other QT gets it. This update saves me a QT tank.

There is a fourth issue - people using an incorrect dose. For example, A 29 gallon tank only holds about 22 gallons and tank decorations can displace even more. It would be a mistake to dose it at 29.
Measuring errors and math issues can also be a problem.
Jay