Probe, tubing, ATO and AWC holder for GHL/Profilux

[PurePleX]

Hello! New to Reef2Reef and my first post; just cycling my first tank - Red Sea Max Nano Cube. Spending the time 3D-printing a holder for my GHL sensors: probes, level (ATO x 2 + AWC), 1/4" tubes (AWC fill + waste, ATO). ATO and AWC level adjustable! Work in progress...

 

[Scuba Dooba]

Hello! New to Reef2Reef and my first post; just cycling my first tank - Red Sea Max Nano Cube. Spending the time 3D-printing a holder for my GHL sensors: probes, level (ATO x 2 + AWC), 1/4" tubes (AWC fill + waste, ATO). ATO and AWC level adjustable! Work in progress...

I found this sensor holder to be good ... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2866145

 

[PurePleX]

Tx for the hint! It might fit my minimal AIO sump, but I'm looking for a all-in-all solution including tubing attachment (waste and fresh saltwater for AWC, and RODI-water for ATO). Also, and maybe most importantly, I'm looking for a height adjustable holder for the sensors for AWC and ATO. I don't know how much water I will change during my AWC, and I don't know how much that corresponds to water level in the return compartment. The final level (ATO) might also need adjustment to minimize noise.

The model above will fullfil all needs, and with space to spare.

However, I am concerned about the resin used in my SLA printer. Browsing the net and reading technical sheets I see toxic and non fish safe all over the place... But I also realize that mostly relates to uncured resin. There are anecdotal usage of Formlabs Tough resin without obvious detrimental results. Also, I already have a first version holder in the tank before realizing the toxic potential... And I carefully and completely cure the prints.

So, I'm now considering the following:
1. Print in Tough 2000 resin.
2. Cure according to instructions.
3. Post-process (get rid of supports, sand, apply (and rinse!) food safe paraffin oil.
4. Cure again to cure surfaces not reached before post-processing.
5. Just try it - somebody gotta do it...

As a backup/alternative I can dip the holder in epoxy, but that would alter the dimensions. An other alternative is to use the Dental resins - explicitly stating in the technical sheet that they are non-toxic.

Hmmm...Will keep posting here as I progress and learn. Any input is welcome!

 

[PurePleX]

Tx for the hint! It might fit my minimal AIO sump, but I'm looking for a all-in-all solution including tubing attachment (waste and fresh saltwater for AWC, and RODI-water for ATO). Also, and maybe most importantly, I'm looking for a height adjustable holder for the sensors for AWC and ATO. I don't know how much water I will change during my AWC, and I don't know how much that corresponds to water level in the return compartment. The final level (ATO) might also need adjustment to minimize noise.

The model above will fulfill all needs, and with space to spare.

However, I am concerned about the resin used in my SLA printer. Browsing the net and reading technical sheets I see toxic and non fish safe all over the place... But I also realize that mostly relates to uncured resin. There are anecdotal usage of Formlabs Tough resin without obvious detrimental results. Also, I already have a first version holder in the tank before realizing the toxic potential... And I carefully and completely cure the prints.

So, I'm now considering the following:
1. Print in Tough 2000 resin.
2. Cure according to instructions.
3. Post-process (get rid of supports, sand, apply (and rinse!) food safe paraffin oil.
4. Cure again to cure surfaces not reached before post-processing.
5. Just try it - somebody gotta do it...

As a backup/alternative I can dip the holder in epoxy, but that would alter the dimensions. An other alternative is to use the Dental resins - explicitly stating in the technical sheet that they are non-toxic.

Hmmm...Will keep posting here as I progress and learn. Any input is welcome!

 

[PurePleX]

Sorry for double posting. Compensate by posting a pic of my holder just after printing. The yucky stuff on the platform is uncured raw resin - really toxic as I've learned... Let's see how this develops.

 

[PurePleX]

Reading from the Dental LT Clear (V2) resin from Formlabs: "Non toxic". Anybody tried? I'll contact Formlabs and hear if it's suitable printwise (rigidity and threadability) for my application. They do have several other dental resins.

 

[PurePleX]

Denture Base and Teeth seems even better - probably more rigid/sturdy, and same (non) toxicity data.

 

[PurePleX]

Post washing and curing; pre finishing.

 

[PurePleX]

Post post processing and assembly!

 

[PurePleX]

And installed! Works great. Both levels (normal/ATO) and level when changing water - 320 ml, set to do 5 times a day sparing weekends to give opportunity to mix new salt. Probes nicely dipped. All cables handled/sorted. Works as a charm so far (less than a day…)!

 

[Tuan’s Reef]

Fantastic work! Mind sharing the files ? lol

 

[PurePleX]

Sure! No problem. Also attach a picture from the rear - the left two screews are for squeezing the whole holder in place (screws push against the glass) and the rigth clustered four screews are for adjusting the levels of the AWC Low (left) and ATO (right).

As for the holder, I'd make two adjustments (will do when/if I get a dental resin):
1. It turned out a couple of mm too wide. Don't know how I measured the available space in my Red Sea Nano Max, but I should have done better...
2. The "grid" on top to secure cable ties to the 1/4" lines (yellow - waste, white - new saltwater, blue - RODI) prevents the 1/4"-bulkhead from entering it's hole. I therefore had to set the bulkhead upside down. However, then the metalic stopper nut came on the upper side - further away from the corrosive water, so maybe it's actual better!

So far, so good and my (so far only) inhabitants the two percula Humle and Dumle are doing great and eating away!

PS. Hmmmm.... Fail to attach the SketchUp file - size limitation (only 786 kb)? Or only possible to attach pictures and pdfs?

 

[gbroadbridge]

Hello! New to Reef2Reef and my first post; just cycling my first tank - Red Sea Max Nano Cube. Spending the time 3D-printing a holder for my GHL sensors: probes, level (ATO x 2 + AWC), 1/4" tubes (AWC fill + waste, ATO). ATO and AWC level adjustable! Work in progress...

I just use black eggcrate tied together with cable ties.

Seemed like a lot of effort to design a 3D print, so I got lazy.

 

[PurePleX]

Seemed like a lot of effort

Isn't that the essence of the whole hobby...

Seriously, agree completely. The time, money and effort re-doing and re-re-doing can not be justified. Except that it is fun and a joy to see the finished product!

Anybody have a clue on how I attach a SketchUp file?

 

[nvcheeko]

Mate Happy purchase the STL off ya to give it a go

 

[PurePleX]

Yeah - I have no problem sharing it; money just complicates things. Just keep in mind my suggested modifications above. Still haven't figured how to attach .stl-files, so I attach it as a .pdf-file; just change the file extension and you should be all set. Use as you please - only condition is that you report your successes and failures (and modifications!) here.

And, interestingly, I've had a good conversation with FormLabs; personally I think the risk with properly and thoroughly cured (Tough) resin is exacerbated in the reef community. Surely there is an actual and definite toxicity of uncured resin, but cured dito needs to be proven. Epoxy is considered safe (I think?), but uncured dito I doubt. Anyhow, FormLabs doesn't guarantee marine safe (cured) resin, but not far from:

"...received a response from our material specialist team. They confirmed that any well processed resin should work for your application. We would suggest Clear Resin or possibly one of the Tough resins. Of course, as I mentioned before, please be careful with how you post process to ensure all residual uncured resin is removed."

So, all things considered: I personally will continue using well cured Tough 2000 until I see some negative effects on my system. So far it's newly cycled and with only two so far happy perculas. Time will tell, and I'll keep you posted here.

 

[nvcheeko]

Thanks Mate will let you know,
Ill Try print it in ASA i have heaps at work, Resin i only have stuff i wouldnt use in Reef tank.

 

[RSnodgrass]

Yeah - I have no problem sharing it; money just complicates things. Just keep in mind my suggested modifications above. Still haven't figured how to attach .stl-files, so I attach it as a .pdf-file; just change the file extension and you should be all set. Use as you please - only condition is that you report your successes and failures (and modifications!) here.

And, interestingly, I've had a good conversation with FormLabs; personally I think the risk with properly and thoroughly cured (Tough) resin is exacerbated in the reef community. Surely there is an actual and definite toxicity of uncured resin, but cured dito needs to be proven. Epoxy is considered safe (I think?), but uncured dito I doubt. Anyhow, FormLabs doesn't guarantee marine safe (cured) resin, but not far from:

"...received a response from our material specialist team. They confirmed that any well processed resin should work for your application. We would suggest Clear Resin or possibly one of the Tough resins. Of course, as I mentioned before, please be careful with how you post process to ensure all residual uncured resin is removed."

So, all things considered: I personally will continue using well cured Tough 2000 until I see some negative effects on my system. So far it's newly cycled and with only two so far happy perculas. Time will tell, and I'll keep you posted here.

The hard part with anecdotal observation in your case is it's a new system. You will almost certainly never know in the future if you're tank issues are from a print that continues to react to UV over time or a litany of other things. Similarly, if all seems well you still won't know if it's possibly holding your system back.

 

[PurePleX]

The hard part with anecdotal observation in your case is it's a new system. You will almost certainly never know in the future if you're tank issues are from a print that continues to react to UV over time or a litany of other things. Similarly, if all seems well you still won't know if it's possibly holding your system back.

Yes, you are absolutely correct and your statement is 100% true.

And you pinpoint the "weakness" of science. A scientific hypothesis is aimed at proving a causality between A and B (in this case liquid resin and bad outcome). But to prove the hypothesis of non-causality between A and B requires an infinite number of observations and an infinite time.

Let's just say that I'm happy so far in my infinite journey! I'll keep you all updated!