Proper use of Dr Tim's and adding livestock

[Daniel@R2R]

Hey guys, what is the proper procedure for using Dr. Tim's One and Only? For those who have used it, how quickly did you add livestock? I used dry rock and dry sand so I have no biofilter (other than what's in the bottle).

 

[reeferfoxx]

I just followed the instructions.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

I just followed the instructions.

The only instructions I find on the bottle are a little vague. It basically just says, "dump this in" (or at least that's how I interpret it). Did you find more detailed instructions elsewhere?

 

[reeferfoxx]

The only instructions I find on the bottle are a little vague. It basically just says, "dump this in" (or at least that's how I interpret it). Did you find more detailed instructions elsewhere?

Yeah. I too am being vague I suppose lol. I purchased mine from DFS and they provide a lot of info on it. Hope that helps. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18986

 

[Brew12]

The only instructions I find on the bottle are a little vague. It basically just says, "dump this in" (or at least that's how I interpret it). Did you find more detailed instructions elsewhere?

I hope you have ammonia, also. This is how I would do it.

Dump it in. Wait at least 30 minutes.
Dose pure ammonia to achieve 2ppm in your tank.
Test tank 24 hrs later. If ammonia and nitrite are both zero, you are good to add fish.
If you have detectable ammonia and/or nitrite, wait until they read zero and dose up to 2ppm ammonia again.
When you can go from 2ppm ammonia to zero with no nitrites in 24 hrs it is a very good sign you are good to go.

 

[reeferfoxx]

I use this on my QT tank and never had a problem. I will say I dump the bacteria in at least 4 hours before adding a fish.

 

[tankstudy]

Hey guys, what is the proper procedure for using Dr. Tim's One and Only? For those who have used it, how quickly did you add livestock?

Depending on how much you initially use, you can add it as early as 24 hours after.

This is straight off his page.

The Process:

• Day 1 – dose ammonia to 2 ppm ammonia-nitrogen [NH3-N] using our ammonium chloride (1 drop per gallon) [NOTE: do not expect your test kit to exactly read 2 ppm and it is not critical to get exactly 2 ppm. The key is to not add too much ammonia]. If using DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Nitrifying bacteria add it now (turn skimmer, UV and ozone off and remove filter socks for 48 hours).
• Day 2 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 3 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add more ammonia. One drop of our ammonium chloride per gallon.
• Days 4 & 5 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 6 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add 2 ppm ammonia. One drop of our ammonium chloride per gallon. [NOTE: since you have added the One & Only your ammonia kit will not read 2 ppm and DO NOT continue adding ammonia trying to get to 2 ppm – just add 2 ppm ammonia (1 drop per gallon of our ammonium chloride) and carry-on.
• Days 7 & 8 – Measure ammonia and nitrite. On the first measurement day (Day 2, 4, 5, 7 or 8) that BOTH ammonia and nitrite are both below 0.5 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) your tank is close to being cycled.
• Now start to measure ammonia and nitrite every day.
• When BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N), add another 2 ppm ammonia.
• Continue to measure every day. When you can add 2 ppm ammonia and BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) the next day your tank is cycled – congrats! You’re done!
• Do a partial water change and add some fish.

Tips and Troubleshooting:

• IMPORTANT – Do not let the ammonia OR nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm.
• If either ammonia or nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm, do water changes to lower the concentration.
• Do not let the pH drop below 7. If it does, do a partial water change to bring the pH back up.
• Do not add ammonia removers to bind the ammonia – overdosing with these products will just increase the cycling time.
• You do not have to add ammonia everyday – the bacteria do not have to be fed every day. Adding ammonia everyday will results in a sky-high nitrite reading and slow the cycling process.

 

[Brew12]

Depending on how much you initially use, you can add it as early as 24 hours after.

This is straight off his page.

The Process:

• Day 1 – dose ammonia to 2 ppm ammonia-nitrogen [NH3-N] using our ammonium chloride (1 drop per gallon) [NOTE: do not expect your test kit to exactly read 2 ppm and it is not critical to get exactly 2 ppm. The key is to not add too much ammonia]. If using DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Nitrifying bacteria add it now (turn skimmer, UV and ozone off and remove filter socks for 48 hours).
• Day 2 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 3 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add more ammonia. One drop of our ammonium chloride per gallon.
• Days 4 & 5 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 6 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add 2 ppm ammonia. One drop of our ammonium chloride per gallon. [NOTE: since you have added the One & Only your ammonia kit will not read 2 ppm and DO NOT continue adding ammonia trying to get to 2 ppm – just add 2 ppm ammonia (1 drop per gallon of our ammonium chloride) and carry-on.
• Days 7 & 8 – Measure ammonia and nitrite. On the first measurement day (Day 2, 4, 5, 7 or 8) that BOTH ammonia and nitrite are both below 0.5 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) your tank is close to being cycled.
• Now start to measure ammonia and nitrite every day.
• When BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N), add another 2 ppm ammonia.
• Continue to measure every day. When you can add 2 ppm ammonia and BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) the next day your tank is cycled – congrats! You’re done!
• Do a partial water change and add some fish.

Tips and Troubleshooting:

• IMPORTANT – Do not let the ammonia OR nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm.
• If either ammonia or nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm, do water changes to lower the concentration.
• Do not let the pH drop below 7. If it does, do a partial water change to bring the pH back up.
• Do not add ammonia removers to bind the ammonia – overdosing with these products will just increase the cycling time.
• You do not have to add ammonia everyday – the bacteria do not have to be fed every day. Adding ammonia everyday will results in a sky-high nitrite reading and slow the cycling process.

pffft... who read directions....

Thanks for posting this!

 

[reeferfoxx]

Depending on how much you initially use, you can add it as early as 24 hours after.

This is straight off his page.

The Process:

• Day 1 – dose ammonia to 2 ppm ammonia-nitrogen [NH3-N] using our ammonium chloride (1 drop per gallon) [NOTE: do not expect your test kit to exactly read 2 ppm and it is not critical to get exactly 2 ppm. The key is to not add too much ammonia]. If using DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Nitrifying bacteria add it now (turn skimmer, UV and ozone off and remove filter socks for 48 hours).
• Day 2 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 3 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add more ammonia. One drop of our ammonium chloride per gallon.
• Days 4 & 5 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 6 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add 2 ppm ammonia. One drop of our ammonium chloride per gallon. [NOTE: since you have added the One & Only your ammonia kit will not read 2 ppm and DO NOT continue adding ammonia trying to get to 2 ppm – just add 2 ppm ammonia (1 drop per gallon of our ammonium chloride) and carry-on.
• Days 7 & 8 – Measure ammonia and nitrite. On the first measurement day (Day 2, 4, 5, 7 or 8) that BOTH ammonia and nitrite are both below 0.5 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) your tank is close to being cycled.
• Now start to measure ammonia and nitrite every day.
• When BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N), add another 2 ppm ammonia.
• Continue to measure every day. When you can add 2 ppm ammonia and BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) the next day your tank is cycled – congrats! You’re done!
• Do a partial water change and add some fish.

Tips and Troubleshooting:

• IMPORTANT – Do not let the ammonia OR nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm.
• If either ammonia or nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm, do water changes to lower the concentration.
• Do not let the pH drop below 7. If it does, do a partial water change to bring the pH back up.
• Do not add ammonia removers to bind the ammonia – overdosing with these products will just increase the cycling time.
• You do not have to add ammonia everyday – the bacteria do not have to be fed every day. Adding ammonia everyday will results in a sky-high nitrite reading and slow the cycling process.

Wish I had known about this 2 years ago. I've been doing it all wrong. lol Though, I like my method more, I think lol

 

[NeuroticAquatics]

I've used it three times in various sized tanks and it was usually about 5 days before the "dose and give 24hrs" trick worked. I live the stuff, as it works, it doesn't smell and you can get fish in sooner than other ways of cycling. The comments/concerns that I have seen over the years seem to be from people that have not actually used the product.

 

[Brew12]

I've used it three times in various sized tanks and it was usually about 5 days before the "dose and give 24hrs" trick worked. I live the stuff, as it works, it doesn't smell and you can get fish in sooner than other ways of cycling. The comments/concerns that I have seen over the years seem to be from people that have not actually used the product.

I keep Biospira on hand since it is easier for me to get, but Dr Tim developed that too so it isn't much different. Nothing better to quickly prep a QT tank. One nice thing about these products is that if you don't want to wait you can always keep adding more until you get the 24hr drop.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I don't think I would put an animal in the tank after the 8 days. AS good as Dr T is. (he's nice too) Call me a chicken, but dry aragonite is still buffering at the highest possible level at that point. The salt water is likely not not considered raw anymore and there is enough bacteria to absorb ammonia but......
Most conventional wisdom says add inverts first as well. On my transfer to my current 55 I added dry sand and after 2 weeks added the cuc and they jumped off the sand like there were on fire and stayed on the established live rock.
Most experts recommend using live rock and and tank water to start a qt. (not treatment, qt, but rock can be used in treatment as well) and do small water changes rather than large ones for the same raw mixed saltwater reasons. Bottle Bacteria is just a backup.

 

[Brew12]

I don't think I would put an animal in the tank after the 8 days. AS good as Dr T is. (he's nice too) Call me a chicken, but dry aragonite is still buffering at the highest possible level at that point. The salt water is likely not not considered raw anymore and there is enough bacteria to absorb ammonia but......
Most conventional wisdom says add inverts first as well. On my transfer to my current 55 I added dry sand and after 2 weeks added the cuc and they jumped off the sand like there were on fire and stayed on the established live rock.
Most experts recommend using live rock and and tank water to start a qt. (not treatment, qt, but rock can be used in treatment as well) and do small water changes rather than large ones for the same raw mixed saltwater reasons. Bottle Bacteria is just a backup.

Good point! I guess I should have clarified... I would wait at least a week or two after filling the aquarium before I added the bacteria and start the process. Until then the water isn't stable for reasons other than cycling.
There are many different chemical balances in an aquarium. Not all minerals dissolve at the same rate. As some dissolve, it can shift some of these balances too far in one direction. As other minerals dissolve later these balances shift in other directions.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Great info, guys. This is the first time I've used dry rock and dry sand. Usually I'm using live rock from another tank and live sand and I've been lucky enough to never actually see the cycle, so even though I've had 6 different reef tanks (or maybe 7), it was always with use of a continued biofilter, so I'm a noob to the cycle from a bottle game.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Great info, guys. This is the first time I've used dry rock and dry sand. Usually I'm using live rock from another tank and live sand and I've been lucky enough to never actually see the cycle, so even though I've had 6 different reef tanks (or maybe 7), it was always with use of a continued biofilter, so I'm a noob to the cycle from a bottle game.

Right? I did two dry one was kinda cured the last one was more science experiment.
Both were tank water sea water and bottle.
The true dry one was the first time I've seen diatoms.

 

[john.m.cole3]

I had 50 lbs live rock, 50 lbs dry rock, and 40 lbs live sand. set that up. Next day added Dr. Tims. 12 hours later moved over CUC, 8 fish, and corals. No casualties. I did this recklessly at best and wouldn't advise anyone to do it this way, but somebody w/ more experience told me they had done it that way several times before and it had worked for them. Now I am more inclined to wait wait wait wait wait my way through a fishless cycle using ammonium chloride.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I had 50 lbs live rock, 50 lbs dry rock, and 40 lbs live sand.

yea that like half skip cycle and is pretty good. the dry dry Im a chiken.

 

[Mmbra]

I dumped in the bottle and immediately added 2 ocellaris. Had no probs.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Fish can't scream.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Fish can't scream.

You've clearly never seen Finding Nemo or Finding Dory...they scream all the time. #noob