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Fish Medic
The Undeniable Appeal of Puffers and Porcupines
By Jay Hemdal and Jeff Kurtz
Aquarists who are looking for a truly “pet-like” marine fish with loads of personality, a nimble brain (for a fish, anyway), wild coloration and patterning, and a body plan that borders on the bizarre, just might find the object of their search among the puffers or porcupinefishes. Given suitable aquarium conditions and proper husbandry, these hardy, long-lived fish will reward their keepers with years of fascination.
So named for their renowned ability to inflate their bodies to convince would-be predators that they’re biting off more than they can chew—or, if caught by ambush, to encourage a predator to spit them out—puffers are a wonderful example of the many extraordinary adaptations exhibited by sea animals.
Of course, not all puffers are found in the sea. In fact, many are at home in brackish water, and some species even favor fresh water. However, puffers and/or porcupinefishes are represented in all tropical seas.
Puffer or Porcupine?
Though both the so-called true puffers (family Tetraodontidae) and the porcupinefishes (family Diodontidae) are shaped more or less like footballs with fins, there is a distinction between these two groups that is implied by the common name of the latter. The “true puffers,” such as the aptly named dog-faced puffer (Arothron nigropunctatus) and guineafowl puffer (Arothron meleagris), have smooth, scale-less bodies whereas the porcupinefishes have spiny bodies. In some porcupinefish, e.g., the striped burrfish (Chilomycterus schoepfi), the spines are held constantly erect. Other species, such as the spiny puffer (Diodon holocanthus), can raise and lower their spines at will and typically keep them flat to their bodies unless provoked.
All Puffed Up and Nowhere to Go!
A puffer usually inflates itself in response to stress by rapidly swallowing water, which fills up a distensible section of the stomach called the diverticulum. In this case, once the danger has passed, the fish can evacuate the water from its diverticulum and go about its business with minimal difficulty. However, when removed from the water, a puffer is also able to inflate its body by swallowing air—a fascinating-yet-undesirable feat since the fish cannot expel air as readily as it can water.
Fatal Attraction
Along with their ability to inflate themselves to discourage predation, many puffer species have another, more potent, trick up their “sleeves” (fins?). That is, their viscera contain a poison called tetrodotoxin, which can be fatal to both predators and people. It’s this same toxin that renders the bite of the Australian blue-ringed octopus so deadly. Ironically, puffer is considered a delicacy in Japan where some sushi devotees tempt their taste buds—and fate—by consuming raw puffer meat (see sidebar #3). This culinary “joy ride” can have disastrous consequences, though, if the puffer meat, known as fugu, is prepared improperly. All too often, a thrill-seeking diner discovers the potency of tetrodotoxin the hard way!
Aquarium Requirements
Potential “tankbusters” that, depending on the species, can range anywhere from one foot to three feet in adult length, puffers and porcupinefishes are best kept singly in a large species aquarium. A tank capacity of 100 gallons or more is recommended. While some puffer species will adapt to life in a large community aquarium, puffers are notorious fin-nippers and can do considerable damage to piscine tankmates with their powerful dental plates.
Not surprisingly, puffers also make poor mini-reef inhabitants. Like the closely related triggerfishes and filefishes, puffers won’t hesitate to use those imposing dental plates to sample the resident invertebrates, which are a part of their natural diet.
This nibbling behavior may also extend to aquarium décor and equipment, so it’s wise to place heaters, protein skimmers, and other devices out of the fish’s reach, preferably in a separate sump. “Aquascaping” should consist of rockwork, with plenty of caves or overhangs where the puffer can seek refuge, as well as open sandy areas that the fish can pick through looking for tasty tidbits as it would in the wild.
Puffers for the Space-Impaired
Aquarists who would like to experience keeping a puffer but simply don’t have the room to accommodate a large aquarium need not despair! The so-called sharpnose puffers (a.k.a., the tobies), such as Valentini’s sharpnose puffer (Canthigaster valentini) and the white-spotted toby (Canthigaster jactator), seldom exceed five inches in adult length.
Many of the Asian brackish puffers are also just the right size for smaller systems. For example, the figure-eight puffer (Tetraodon biocellatus) grows to only about three inches in length, and the green-spotted puffer (Tetraodon nigroviridis) reaches its maximum size at about six inches.
Feeding
Puffers are omnivorous and, therefore, should be offered a variety of both meaty and plant-based foods. Fresh clams, fish, scallops, shrimp, mussels, oysters, and frozen herbivore formulations are all excellent food items to introduce. To minimize the impact of these messy feeders on water quality, feed small portions two or three times daily rather than one large portion once a day. Promptly siphon or net out any portions of food left uneaten. Frequent partial water changes and vigorous protein skimming are also essential.
Puffers are notorious for “guilting” their owners into overfeeding by putting on a most endearing “hunger display” whenever the food provider (whom they quickly learn to recognize) comes into view. However, no matter how irresistible this begging behavior might be, aquarists must adamantly resist overfeeding lest they ultimately kill their puffers with kindness.
Hand feeding of puffers, though it might be tempting given their puppy-like demeanor, is also to be avoided as they may unwittingly “bite the hand that feeds them” in the process.
My, What Big Teeth You’ve Got!
One interesting aspect of puffer husbandry is the fact that the dental plates of some species grow continuously and must be worn down lest they impair the fishes’ ability to feed properly. This can be achieved by routinely offering mollusks and crustaceans that are still in the shell, which allows puffers to feed in a more natural fashion (after all, no one peels shrimp and “shucks” clams for them in the wild!). If this approach is not successful, however, it may be necessary for the aquarist to wear the puffer’s teeth down by hand using a file.
Air Ingestion
Puffers are well known for their ability to swallow water to increase their girth so that predators will be less able to swallow them. During shipping and subsequent handling, puffers can become stressed and will react by ingesting water or, if they are lifted out of the water, by swallowing air. A puffer that inflates its body with air, instead of water, may have difficulty releasing the gas once the traumatic event is over. The stress on the animal while floating at the surface—often upside down—may cause it to retain the air.
One technique that may help is to hold the puffer underwater and give it a gentle squeeze. This will cause the fish to react by swallowing more water (rather than air). Give the fish a few more squeezes until it reacts by filling with water to its full capacity. Then, release the fish and observe it. Now that the fish has a mixture of air and water in its stomach, it may be able to expel both at the same time. The process may need to be repeated a few times. In stubborn cases, there may be a small amount of air remaining even after a week or so. Some aquarists have attempted to remove the residual air using a hypodermic syringe—but this is usually not completely effective.
Mimic Filefish
Two species of filefish mimic toby puffers. Paraluteres prionurus is an excellent mimic of the black-saddled toby (Canthigaster valentini). The Andaman filefish, Paraluteres arquat, mimics a more generalized “spotted toby.” Up to 5% of a school of these puffers may actually be mimic filefish (FishBase 1999). It is supposed that these filefish gain protection from predators that normally avoid eating the potentially toxic toby puffers.
However, there is one argument that both the toby and the filefish gain protection by resembling one another. Some predators are obviously able to prey on tobies, but filefish have their own anti-predator defense—sharp dorsal and anal spines. With a relatively high percentage (5%) of a school possessing sharp spines, most predators would pass on trying to make a meal of any fish in the group. In addition, the toby puffers that are supposed to be the “models” have some characteristics of the mimic, i.e., they have skin folds that resemble the filefish spines and they are thinner than other species of toby, more closely resembling thin filefish. This may actually be a rare case of two animal species that mimic each other for different reasons.
Fugu
Apocryphal stories abound of people eating fugu (raw pufferfish, such as Takifugu rubripes) and being poisoned because the fish was incautiously prepared by the sushi chef. The viscera of many pufferfish contain very high amounts of tetrodotoxin and, if not prepared with extreme precision, may poison the diner. References are made to the term “maki-maki,” which is purported to translate from Japanese to English as “deadly death” in reference to the dangerous nature of this dish. It seems, though, that “maki” actually means “roll” (such as in a sushi “roll”). So, while fugu-maki might be a dangerous main course, “maki-maki” may simply mean “roll-roll”—not nearly as interesting a story!
Recently, Osamu Arakawa of Nagasaki, Japan, headed up a project in which fugu puffers were raised in cages in the sea and in aquariums. His theory was that much of the tetrodotoxin produced by the fish was a result of them feeding on poisonous marine life (as has been seen with other toxic fishes, such as barracuda). His pufferfish were fed solely on mackerel and other “safe” foods and did not appear to end up containing dangerous amounts of the toxin.
For some people, though, it is the potential brush with death when eating fugu that holds much of the allure, and this “safe” seafood may not be of much interest to them!
For the aquarist, the lesson here is, never ingest any species of pufferfish and never feed their flesh to any of your pets or other aquarium animals.
Symptoms of pufferfish poisoning generally appear between 20 minutes and three hours after ingesting the toxin. The following are the most common symptoms, though each individual may experience a different set of symptoms:
• Numbness of lips and tongue
• Numbness of face and extremities
• Sensation of lightness or floating
• Dizziness
• Headache
• Vomiting
• Extensive muscle weakness
These symptoms may progress to paralysis, loss of consciousness, respiratory failure, and even death. If puffer poisoning is ever suspected, call emergency services (911) right away. If help is not available, vomiting should be induced if the victim is awake and alert and has eaten the fish within three hours. The victim may become paralyzed. Artificial respiration (rescue breathing) may keep the person alive until help arrives.
There is no known antidote for tetrodotoxin poisoning, so medical treatment consists of addressing the various symptoms as they progress.
Relative Cost
The cost of pufferfish species varies greatly among species, but each species’ price seems to be relatively consistent among dealers. Toby puffers, such as Canthigaster valentini, are the least expensive species available, while the map puffer, Arothron mappa, is the rarest, most expensive species routinely available to home aquarists. A map puffer may cost more than thirty times that of a common toby puffer. Gold-phase Arothron meleagris puffers vary in price depending on the quality of their yellow or gold coloration. Very fine examples of this species may even approach the map puffer in price.
Species Profiles
White-Spotted Puffer/Stars and Stripes Puffer (Arothron hispidus)
• Maximum Size: 20”, five pounds
• Habitat: Shallow reefs, seagrass, and brackish water
• Range: Widespread, East Africa to Baja California
• Notes: Commonly exported from the Philippines as a “filler fish” (a species not ordered by the importer). This species has become less frequently seen in recent years as demand for unordered specimens declined.
Guineafowl Puffer (Arothron meleagris)
• Maximum Size: 20”
• Habitat: Coral reefs
• Range: South Africa east through the Indo-Pacific to Mexico, the Galapagos, and Ecuador
• Notes: Feeds on tips of branching Acropora corals, sponges, mollusks, and other invertebrates. Coloration ranges from gray with white spots to jet black with bright white spots. Rare specimens are yellow or bright gold, commanding higher prices.
Blackspotted Puffer/Dog-Faced Puffer (Arothron nigropunctatus)
• Maximum Size: 14”
• Habitat: Coral reefs
• Range: East Africa through the Indo-Pacific to Micronesia
• Notes: Often found in yellow or partially yellow color phases. Feeds on crustaceans, mollusks, and sponges. Adaptable to captivity and commonly seen in the pet trade.
Caribbean Sharpnose Puffer (Canthigaster rostrata)
• Maximum Size: 4”
• Habitat: Reefs and seagrass beds
• Range: South Carolina through Florida and into the Caribbean
• Notes: Diet includes seagrass, sponges, and small invertebrates. Juveniles are often found near gorgonians to camouflage themselves.
Spotted Sharpnose Puffer (Canthigaster solandri)
• Maximum Size: 4.5”
• Habitat: Reef flats, lagoons, and fringing reefs
• Range: East Africa through the Indo-Pacific, straying to Hawaii
• Notes: Feeds on filamentous algae, corals, and small invertebrates. Often found in pairs or small groups.
Valentini’s Sharpnose Puffer (Canthigaster valentini)
• Maximum Size: 3.5”
• Habitat: Coral reefs
• Range: Red Sea, East Africa, north to Japan, and east to Micronesia
• Notes: Forms schools of up to 100 fish, often including mimicking filefish. Common in the pet trade, compatible in most fish-only aquariums.
Bullseye Puffer (Sphoeroides annulatus)
• Maximum Size: 18”
• Habitat: Soft-bottom areas
• Range: East Pacific, California south to Peru, including the Galapagos
• Notes: In the Galapagos Islands, these fish approach anchored boats seeking scraps of food. Their “bullseye” pattern is distinctive when viewed from above. This species has been successfully reared in captivity using artificial spawning and specific feeding regimens for the larvae.
Southern Puffer (Sphoeroides nephelus)
• Maximum Size: 15”
• Habitat: Bays, estuaries, and other coastal waters
• Range: Canada south to Northern Florida
• Notes: Feeds on invertebrates but may also prey on small, slow-moving fish. Known for burying partially in the substrate. Often housed in temperate-water aquariums by dedicated aquarists.
Diodontidae (Porcupinefishes)
Striped Burrfish (Chilomycterus schoepfii)
• Maximum Size: 11”
• Habitat: Seagrass beds and lagoons
• Range: Nova Scotia south through Florida, the Gulf of Mexico to Brazil
• Notes: Distinguished by spines always extended at right angles to their body. Often called “ick magnets” due to their susceptibility to Cryptocaryon irritans. They respond well to copper treatments for this condition.
Long-Spine Porcupinefish (Diodon holocanthus)
• Maximum Size: 24”
• Habitat: Pelagic juvenile stage; adults found on reefs and rocky areas
• Range: Circumtropical
• Notes: Nocturnal species, commonly seen hiding in coral caves during the day. Feeds on mollusks, crustaceans, and sea urchins. Often used as dried curios, such as bizarre lampshades.
Spot-Fin Porcupinefish (Diodon hystrix)
• Maximum Size: 36”
• Habitat: Pelagic juvenile stage; adults found in coral caves
• Range: Circumtropical
• Notes: Juveniles are pelagic and rarely collected. Adults are nocturnal and feed on hard-shelled invertebrates. Due to their size, they are not recommended for typical home aquariums.
References
• Bohlke, James E., and Chaplin, Charles C.G. 1968. Fishes of the Bahamas and Adjacent Tropical Waters. University of Texas Press, Austin.
• Fenner, Robert M. 2001. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. T.F.H. Publications, Neptune City, New Jersey.
• FishBase 1999. www.fishbase.org
• Garcia-Ortega, A., Abdo, I., Hernandez, C. 2003. Weaning of the Bullseye Puffer (Sphoeroides annulatus) from Live Food to Particulate Diets. Aquaculture International 11:183-194.
• Hemdal, J.F. 1999. Diving the Galapagos 1998: Post-El Nino. Freshwater and Marine Aquarium 22 (6):30-34.
• Michael, Scott W. 2001. Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H. Publications, Neptune City, New Jersey.
• Stokes, Joseph F. 1980. Coral Reef Fishes of the Caribbean. Lippincott and Crowell, New York.
• Thresher, Ronald E. 1980. Reef Fish. Palmetto Publishing Co., St. Petersburg, Florida.
By Jay Hemdal and Jeff Kurtz
Aquarists who are looking for a truly “pet-like” marine fish with loads of personality, a nimble brain (for a fish, anyway), wild coloration and patterning, and a body plan that borders on the bizarre, just might find the object of their search among the puffers or porcupinefishes. Given suitable aquarium conditions and proper husbandry, these hardy, long-lived fish will reward their keepers with years of fascination.
So named for their renowned ability to inflate their bodies to convince would-be predators that they’re biting off more than they can chew—or, if caught by ambush, to encourage a predator to spit them out—puffers are a wonderful example of the many extraordinary adaptations exhibited by sea animals.
Of course, not all puffers are found in the sea. In fact, many are at home in brackish water, and some species even favor fresh water. However, puffers and/or porcupinefishes are represented in all tropical seas.
Puffer or Porcupine?
Though both the so-called true puffers (family Tetraodontidae) and the porcupinefishes (family Diodontidae) are shaped more or less like footballs with fins, there is a distinction between these two groups that is implied by the common name of the latter. The “true puffers,” such as the aptly named dog-faced puffer (Arothron nigropunctatus) and guineafowl puffer (Arothron meleagris), have smooth, scale-less bodies whereas the porcupinefishes have spiny bodies. In some porcupinefish, e.g., the striped burrfish (Chilomycterus schoepfi), the spines are held constantly erect. Other species, such as the spiny puffer (Diodon holocanthus), can raise and lower their spines at will and typically keep them flat to their bodies unless provoked.
All Puffed Up and Nowhere to Go!
A puffer usually inflates itself in response to stress by rapidly swallowing water, which fills up a distensible section of the stomach called the diverticulum. In this case, once the danger has passed, the fish can evacuate the water from its diverticulum and go about its business with minimal difficulty. However, when removed from the water, a puffer is also able to inflate its body by swallowing air—a fascinating-yet-undesirable feat since the fish cannot expel air as readily as it can water.
Fatal Attraction
Along with their ability to inflate themselves to discourage predation, many puffer species have another, more potent, trick up their “sleeves” (fins?). That is, their viscera contain a poison called tetrodotoxin, which can be fatal to both predators and people. It’s this same toxin that renders the bite of the Australian blue-ringed octopus so deadly. Ironically, puffer is considered a delicacy in Japan where some sushi devotees tempt their taste buds—and fate—by consuming raw puffer meat (see sidebar #3). This culinary “joy ride” can have disastrous consequences, though, if the puffer meat, known as fugu, is prepared improperly. All too often, a thrill-seeking diner discovers the potency of tetrodotoxin the hard way!
Aquarium Requirements
Potential “tankbusters” that, depending on the species, can range anywhere from one foot to three feet in adult length, puffers and porcupinefishes are best kept singly in a large species aquarium. A tank capacity of 100 gallons or more is recommended. While some puffer species will adapt to life in a large community aquarium, puffers are notorious fin-nippers and can do considerable damage to piscine tankmates with their powerful dental plates.
Not surprisingly, puffers also make poor mini-reef inhabitants. Like the closely related triggerfishes and filefishes, puffers won’t hesitate to use those imposing dental plates to sample the resident invertebrates, which are a part of their natural diet.
This nibbling behavior may also extend to aquarium décor and equipment, so it’s wise to place heaters, protein skimmers, and other devices out of the fish’s reach, preferably in a separate sump. “Aquascaping” should consist of rockwork, with plenty of caves or overhangs where the puffer can seek refuge, as well as open sandy areas that the fish can pick through looking for tasty tidbits as it would in the wild.
Puffers for the Space-Impaired
Aquarists who would like to experience keeping a puffer but simply don’t have the room to accommodate a large aquarium need not despair! The so-called sharpnose puffers (a.k.a., the tobies), such as Valentini’s sharpnose puffer (Canthigaster valentini) and the white-spotted toby (Canthigaster jactator), seldom exceed five inches in adult length.
Many of the Asian brackish puffers are also just the right size for smaller systems. For example, the figure-eight puffer (Tetraodon biocellatus) grows to only about three inches in length, and the green-spotted puffer (Tetraodon nigroviridis) reaches its maximum size at about six inches.
Feeding
Puffers are omnivorous and, therefore, should be offered a variety of both meaty and plant-based foods. Fresh clams, fish, scallops, shrimp, mussels, oysters, and frozen herbivore formulations are all excellent food items to introduce. To minimize the impact of these messy feeders on water quality, feed small portions two or three times daily rather than one large portion once a day. Promptly siphon or net out any portions of food left uneaten. Frequent partial water changes and vigorous protein skimming are also essential.
Puffers are notorious for “guilting” their owners into overfeeding by putting on a most endearing “hunger display” whenever the food provider (whom they quickly learn to recognize) comes into view. However, no matter how irresistible this begging behavior might be, aquarists must adamantly resist overfeeding lest they ultimately kill their puffers with kindness.
Hand feeding of puffers, though it might be tempting given their puppy-like demeanor, is also to be avoided as they may unwittingly “bite the hand that feeds them” in the process.
My, What Big Teeth You’ve Got!
One interesting aspect of puffer husbandry is the fact that the dental plates of some species grow continuously and must be worn down lest they impair the fishes’ ability to feed properly. This can be achieved by routinely offering mollusks and crustaceans that are still in the shell, which allows puffers to feed in a more natural fashion (after all, no one peels shrimp and “shucks” clams for them in the wild!). If this approach is not successful, however, it may be necessary for the aquarist to wear the puffer’s teeth down by hand using a file.
Air Ingestion
Puffers are well known for their ability to swallow water to increase their girth so that predators will be less able to swallow them. During shipping and subsequent handling, puffers can become stressed and will react by ingesting water or, if they are lifted out of the water, by swallowing air. A puffer that inflates its body with air, instead of water, may have difficulty releasing the gas once the traumatic event is over. The stress on the animal while floating at the surface—often upside down—may cause it to retain the air.
One technique that may help is to hold the puffer underwater and give it a gentle squeeze. This will cause the fish to react by swallowing more water (rather than air). Give the fish a few more squeezes until it reacts by filling with water to its full capacity. Then, release the fish and observe it. Now that the fish has a mixture of air and water in its stomach, it may be able to expel both at the same time. The process may need to be repeated a few times. In stubborn cases, there may be a small amount of air remaining even after a week or so. Some aquarists have attempted to remove the residual air using a hypodermic syringe—but this is usually not completely effective.
Mimic Filefish
Two species of filefish mimic toby puffers. Paraluteres prionurus is an excellent mimic of the black-saddled toby (Canthigaster valentini). The Andaman filefish, Paraluteres arquat, mimics a more generalized “spotted toby.” Up to 5% of a school of these puffers may actually be mimic filefish (FishBase 1999). It is supposed that these filefish gain protection from predators that normally avoid eating the potentially toxic toby puffers.
However, there is one argument that both the toby and the filefish gain protection by resembling one another. Some predators are obviously able to prey on tobies, but filefish have their own anti-predator defense—sharp dorsal and anal spines. With a relatively high percentage (5%) of a school possessing sharp spines, most predators would pass on trying to make a meal of any fish in the group. In addition, the toby puffers that are supposed to be the “models” have some characteristics of the mimic, i.e., they have skin folds that resemble the filefish spines and they are thinner than other species of toby, more closely resembling thin filefish. This may actually be a rare case of two animal species that mimic each other for different reasons.
Fugu
Apocryphal stories abound of people eating fugu (raw pufferfish, such as Takifugu rubripes) and being poisoned because the fish was incautiously prepared by the sushi chef. The viscera of many pufferfish contain very high amounts of tetrodotoxin and, if not prepared with extreme precision, may poison the diner. References are made to the term “maki-maki,” which is purported to translate from Japanese to English as “deadly death” in reference to the dangerous nature of this dish. It seems, though, that “maki” actually means “roll” (such as in a sushi “roll”). So, while fugu-maki might be a dangerous main course, “maki-maki” may simply mean “roll-roll”—not nearly as interesting a story!
Recently, Osamu Arakawa of Nagasaki, Japan, headed up a project in which fugu puffers were raised in cages in the sea and in aquariums. His theory was that much of the tetrodotoxin produced by the fish was a result of them feeding on poisonous marine life (as has been seen with other toxic fishes, such as barracuda). His pufferfish were fed solely on mackerel and other “safe” foods and did not appear to end up containing dangerous amounts of the toxin.
For some people, though, it is the potential brush with death when eating fugu that holds much of the allure, and this “safe” seafood may not be of much interest to them!
For the aquarist, the lesson here is, never ingest any species of pufferfish and never feed their flesh to any of your pets or other aquarium animals.
Symptoms of pufferfish poisoning generally appear between 20 minutes and three hours after ingesting the toxin. The following are the most common symptoms, though each individual may experience a different set of symptoms:
• Numbness of lips and tongue
• Numbness of face and extremities
• Sensation of lightness or floating
• Dizziness
• Headache
• Vomiting
• Extensive muscle weakness
These symptoms may progress to paralysis, loss of consciousness, respiratory failure, and even death. If puffer poisoning is ever suspected, call emergency services (911) right away. If help is not available, vomiting should be induced if the victim is awake and alert and has eaten the fish within three hours. The victim may become paralyzed. Artificial respiration (rescue breathing) may keep the person alive until help arrives.
There is no known antidote for tetrodotoxin poisoning, so medical treatment consists of addressing the various symptoms as they progress.
Relative Cost
The cost of pufferfish species varies greatly among species, but each species’ price seems to be relatively consistent among dealers. Toby puffers, such as Canthigaster valentini, are the least expensive species available, while the map puffer, Arothron mappa, is the rarest, most expensive species routinely available to home aquarists. A map puffer may cost more than thirty times that of a common toby puffer. Gold-phase Arothron meleagris puffers vary in price depending on the quality of their yellow or gold coloration. Very fine examples of this species may even approach the map puffer in price.
Species Profiles
White-Spotted Puffer/Stars and Stripes Puffer (Arothron hispidus)
• Maximum Size: 20”, five pounds
• Habitat: Shallow reefs, seagrass, and brackish water
• Range: Widespread, East Africa to Baja California
• Notes: Commonly exported from the Philippines as a “filler fish” (a species not ordered by the importer). This species has become less frequently seen in recent years as demand for unordered specimens declined.
Guineafowl Puffer (Arothron meleagris)
• Maximum Size: 20”
• Habitat: Coral reefs
• Range: South Africa east through the Indo-Pacific to Mexico, the Galapagos, and Ecuador
• Notes: Feeds on tips of branching Acropora corals, sponges, mollusks, and other invertebrates. Coloration ranges from gray with white spots to jet black with bright white spots. Rare specimens are yellow or bright gold, commanding higher prices.
Blackspotted Puffer/Dog-Faced Puffer (Arothron nigropunctatus)
• Maximum Size: 14”
• Habitat: Coral reefs
• Range: East Africa through the Indo-Pacific to Micronesia
• Notes: Often found in yellow or partially yellow color phases. Feeds on crustaceans, mollusks, and sponges. Adaptable to captivity and commonly seen in the pet trade.
Caribbean Sharpnose Puffer (Canthigaster rostrata)
• Maximum Size: 4”
• Habitat: Reefs and seagrass beds
• Range: South Carolina through Florida and into the Caribbean
• Notes: Diet includes seagrass, sponges, and small invertebrates. Juveniles are often found near gorgonians to camouflage themselves.
Spotted Sharpnose Puffer (Canthigaster solandri)
• Maximum Size: 4.5”
• Habitat: Reef flats, lagoons, and fringing reefs
• Range: East Africa through the Indo-Pacific, straying to Hawaii
• Notes: Feeds on filamentous algae, corals, and small invertebrates. Often found in pairs or small groups.
Valentini’s Sharpnose Puffer (Canthigaster valentini)
• Maximum Size: 3.5”
• Habitat: Coral reefs
• Range: Red Sea, East Africa, north to Japan, and east to Micronesia
• Notes: Forms schools of up to 100 fish, often including mimicking filefish. Common in the pet trade, compatible in most fish-only aquariums.
Bullseye Puffer (Sphoeroides annulatus)
• Maximum Size: 18”
• Habitat: Soft-bottom areas
• Range: East Pacific, California south to Peru, including the Galapagos
• Notes: In the Galapagos Islands, these fish approach anchored boats seeking scraps of food. Their “bullseye” pattern is distinctive when viewed from above. This species has been successfully reared in captivity using artificial spawning and specific feeding regimens for the larvae.
Southern Puffer (Sphoeroides nephelus)
• Maximum Size: 15”
• Habitat: Bays, estuaries, and other coastal waters
• Range: Canada south to Northern Florida
• Notes: Feeds on invertebrates but may also prey on small, slow-moving fish. Known for burying partially in the substrate. Often housed in temperate-water aquariums by dedicated aquarists.
Diodontidae (Porcupinefishes)
Striped Burrfish (Chilomycterus schoepfii)
• Maximum Size: 11”
• Habitat: Seagrass beds and lagoons
• Range: Nova Scotia south through Florida, the Gulf of Mexico to Brazil
• Notes: Distinguished by spines always extended at right angles to their body. Often called “ick magnets” due to their susceptibility to Cryptocaryon irritans. They respond well to copper treatments for this condition.
Long-Spine Porcupinefish (Diodon holocanthus)
• Maximum Size: 24”
• Habitat: Pelagic juvenile stage; adults found on reefs and rocky areas
• Range: Circumtropical
• Notes: Nocturnal species, commonly seen hiding in coral caves during the day. Feeds on mollusks, crustaceans, and sea urchins. Often used as dried curios, such as bizarre lampshades.
Spot-Fin Porcupinefish (Diodon hystrix)
• Maximum Size: 36”
• Habitat: Pelagic juvenile stage; adults found in coral caves
• Range: Circumtropical
• Notes: Juveniles are pelagic and rarely collected. Adults are nocturnal and feed on hard-shelled invertebrates. Due to their size, they are not recommended for typical home aquariums.
References
• Bohlke, James E., and Chaplin, Charles C.G. 1968. Fishes of the Bahamas and Adjacent Tropical Waters. University of Texas Press, Austin.
• Fenner, Robert M. 2001. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. T.F.H. Publications, Neptune City, New Jersey.
• FishBase 1999. www.fishbase.org
• Garcia-Ortega, A., Abdo, I., Hernandez, C. 2003. Weaning of the Bullseye Puffer (Sphoeroides annulatus) from Live Food to Particulate Diets. Aquaculture International 11:183-194.
• Hemdal, J.F. 1999. Diving the Galapagos 1998: Post-El Nino. Freshwater and Marine Aquarium 22 (6):30-34.
• Michael, Scott W. 2001. Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-To-Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H. Publications, Neptune City, New Jersey.
• Stokes, Joseph F. 1980. Coral Reef Fishes of the Caribbean. Lippincott and Crowell, New York.
• Thresher, Ronald E. 1980. Reef Fish. Palmetto Publishing Co., St. Petersburg, Florida.
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