Quarantine Tank

[swanedog]

Looking at getting my 30 gallon set up as a quarantine tank. What all does it take to get a quarantine up and running? Does it need to be “established”? Want to have it in case of emergencies.

 

[EnterName]

This is all I can think of right now:

• Heaters + Controller with temperature probe(s)
• Airstone/air pump
• Some large PVC tubes serving as hiding place for fish. Porous things like reef rock absorb copper, so you might want to avoid this.
• Test kits: Ammonia + Nitrate, and Copper.
• Medication (e.g. Copper)
• Space for mixed saltwater in case you need to change water in the QT tank when ammonia rises.
• Buckets for water changes and for carrying animals from one tank to the other.
• Some way of filtration, usually a hang-on-back (hob) filter. Some people use sponge filters as well.
• (Optional) cheap lights

QT tanks are very often not fully cycled and require water changes to keep ammonia from rising. There isn't enough surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to do their job, and cycling takes time.

To reduce the chance of cross-contamination between QT and display tank, you might also want to get certain tools a second time (e.g. feeding pipette, fishing nets, etc.)

 

[swanedog]

Thank you! That’s a great start. Much appreciated.

 

[Fish Fan]

This is the R2R QT protocol, which discusses setting up the tank:

Current Quarantine Protocol

2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...

www.reef2reef.com

Good luck!

 

[mfinn]

Looking at getting my 30 gallon set up as a quarantine tank. What all does it take to get a quarantine up and running? Does it need to be “established”? Want to have it in case of emergencies.

This is my basic quarantine 20 gallon tank.
I keep the sponge filter in my sump of my display tank until I need it for new fish.
If I'm getting multiple new fish I can add large pvc fittings for cover.

 

[swanedog]

Looking at getting my 30 gallon set up as a quarantine tank. What all does it take to get a quarantine up and running? Does it need to be “established”? Want to have it in case of emergencies.

This is my basic quarantine 20 gallon tank.
I keep the sponge filter in my sump of my display tank until I need it for new fish.
If I'm getting multiple new fish I can add large pvc fittings for cover.

Looks simple enough. Need to get mine up and running for sure. Just using a simple HOB filter?

 

[mfinn]

Looks simple enough. Need to get mine up and running for sure. Just using a simple HOB filter?

I use a back filter to help pickup free floating particles, a sponge filter for the main biological filtration that is pre cycled, a heater and a small powerhead.. The objects in the tank to act as hiding/cover places.

 

[Largeangels]

I always keep some bio media in my other tanks I put into the qt. I also like to have a HOB filter and use it to break up the water surface, in addition to the air stone. I also put in an ammonia badge.

 

[NeedAReef]

when i do a WC on my main tank it goes like this... take 5 gal from qt even when nothing in it....put in 5 from main tank, put new 5gal in main tank.... eventually there will be next to nothing for anything in the hospital/qt to get shocked by. I don't medicate unless it is absolutely required. I observe them for weeks before they go in.

 

[swanedog]

when i do a WC on my main tank it goes like this... take 5 gal from qt even when nothing in it....put in 5 from main tank, put new 5gal in main tank.... eventually there will be next to nothing for anything in the hospital/qt to get shocked by. I don't medicate unless it is absolutely required. I observe them for weeks before they go in.

Seems like a good method of utilizing already cycled water. Have had discussions with other individuals that utilizing the cycled water helps quite a bit with the nitrifying bacteria.

 

[fish_collector]

A good topic and all good responses.

I just have a petco10g, Seachem Tidal HOB with sponge, Fluval 50w heater, a $12 Amazon pump I put in the back corner and point straight up, Nicrew LED light and an ammonia badge. I only fill it when I'm expecting to acquire a new fish, and as mentioned I fill it with water from my display tank and refill that with fresh saltwater. I have an air pump, tubing and some large ceramic airstones if necessary but I don't like to use them because of the salt spray from the bubbles.

Sometimes I will keep a fish for several weeks without meds and only use what I think is necessary. My last 2 fish, both juvenile Pomacanthus angels, got no meds and stayed in QT for 30-40 days to get fattened up. I'm pretty good at picking fish that have no parasites, and in 30 days by themselves most everything would have showed up if it was present.

I keep Copper Power and a Hanna tester with 2 boxes of reagent, Metroplex, Kanaplex, PraziPro, Erythromycin, Fenbendazole treated flake food and hydrogen peroxide on hand. My reef club buddy who is 15 minutes away has some formallin and other meds as well.

I keep a fair amount of aged rock in the sumps of both of my tanks that I typically use for a QT, I can add fish immediately and not have to worry about ammonia. But...and very important...I do not place it back into the display sump if I have to medicate for something, it gets thrown into the dry rock pile outside to dry out. I have some rubble in nylon bags that's ready to be used as biological immediately as well.

 

[Fish Fan]

Seems like a good method of utilizing already cycled water. Have had discussions with other individuals that utilizing the cycled water helps quite a bit with the nitrifying bacteria.

If it helps, water is not something that can be considered "cycled", and using water from a mature tank will not help a brand new tank cycle faster

The nitrifying bacteria that process ammonia largely populate surfaces such as rocks, sand, bio media, glass, etc. Very few are free floating in the water column.

That said, using water from a mature display tank added to a QT tank can do a lot to keep water parameters similar across both tanks, which is what that poster you quoted is doing. But, using water alone cannot quickly cycle a brand new tank, as far as the initial nitrogen cycle is concerned

I hope that helps!

 

[fish_collector]

If it helps, water is not something that can be considered "cycled", and using water from a mature tank will not help a brand new tank cycle faster

The nitrifying bacteria that process ammonia largely populate surfaces such as rocks, sand, bio media, glass, etc. Very few are free floating in the water column.

That said, using water from a mature display tank added to a QT tank can do a lot to keep water parameters similar across both tanks. But, using water alone cannot quickly cycle a brand new tank as far as the initial nitrogen cycle.

I hope that helps!

Very good response. I like to use water from the display to fill the QT because it duplicates the parameters and you'll only have to acclimate the fish once.

I don't know how many nitrifying bacteria there would be in the water itself but it would be good to learn that info. I'm sure there's some present but in what amount I dunno, there's probably a lot of variables to consider.

 

[slingfox]

I keep the sponge media form my QT tank in a small bucket of saltwater. Can change out that water with some water from the weekly water change every so often

 

[fish_collector]

I wanted to add that unless one is bringing in a large fish or a number of fish, a 30g is big for a QT, especially if you are doing a treatment that requires a lot of water changes. I find my 10g to be adequate, a 20 might be useful in certain instances I suppose.

My buddy tried the hybrid tank transfer method once and decided it took too much water lol.

 

[slingfox]

I wanted to add that unless one is bringing in a large fish or a number of fish, a 30g is big for a QT, especially if you are doing a treatment that requires a lot of water changes. I find my 10g to be adequate, a 20 might be useful in certain instances I suppose.

My buddy tried the hybrid tank transfer method once and decided it took too much water lol.

I also use a 10g tank from Petco for QT. Would be nice to have a 15g or 20g but I don’t ever intend to have very large fish since my display tank is is only 5 ft wide. I alap started QT using the Tank Transfer Method but switched to medicated quarantine which is much less laborious.

 

[NeedAReef]

If it helps, water is not something that can be considered "cycled", and using water from a mature tank will not help a brand new tank cycle faster

The nitrifying bacteria that process ammonia largely populate surfaces such as rocks, sand, bio media, glass, etc. Very few are free floating in the water column.

That said, using water from a mature display tank added to a QT tank can do a lot to keep water parameters similar across both tanks, which is what that poster you quoted is doing. But, using water alone cannot quickly cycle a brand new tank, as far as the initial nitrogen cycle is concerned

I hope that helps!

correct. As I said I use the water to keep water params stable between the systems. I do find a lot more success this way. Also, like I said I do not use meds but I keep them in QT for weeks, often 4-6 weeks. They are all doing well and eating for sure by the time they go in the display and the transition, since the water params are basically the same, is much less stressful than the current inhabitants bullying that inevitably happens.
since I keep it running all the time, it is already cycled. There is a bag of bio media in the back and a return pump (it is an AIO tank) with a cheap amazon light (more for my viewing than anything else) and a few hidey holes.

I have put coral in there on occasion if I frag (til they heal or attach to plugs) things or if I have something I need a better look at that could be looking off. Doesn't stay long but, again, it allows me to take care of things without doing things in the main tank.

It may not be someone else's idea of how to do things but it has worked for me for years, so it is my way. Find you way with what works for you.

 

[Fish Fan]

correct. As I said I use the water to keep water params stable between the systems. I do find a lot more success this way.

I was not at all disagreeing with you, this goes a long way to keeping parameters consistent across the two tanks, which is great. I was just making the notable distinction that this does not really work for nitrogen cycling a brand new tank on its own. The water itself contains very little nitrifying bacteria, and it's best to add mature bio media or rock to a new tank to jump start the nitrogen cycle. I just wanted to be clear about that for anyone who may find this thread in the future.

 

[NeedAReef]

I was not at all disagreeing with you, this goes a long way to keeping parameters consistent across the two tanks, which is great. I was just making the notable distinction that this does not really work for nitrogen cycling a brand new tank on its own. The water itself contains very little nitrifying bacteria, and it's best to add mature bio media or rock to a new tank to jump start the nitrogen cycle. I just wanted to be clear about that for anyone who may find this thread in the future.

Yep I gathered that no worries. I was trying to help reinforce the distiction for the same reason...someone, some day looks at this. We are doing our part to help the future. Feels great