Quarantining fish?

reefrage

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i know it is a good thing to do, but have any long term hobbyists got by without doing it? even if i do decide to quarantine, how would i go about it? just observe or treat with medication? thank you in advance!
 
Plenty of people do not QT at all. Others do observation. Others full medicated QT. I do not medicate but observe but I've been in the hobby a while and am very selective when I buy fish and never order fish online. Copper QT is recommended or purchasing from vendor that sells QTed fish is an option if you can't or don't want to QT. Not many things will ruin the hobby faster than loosing a tank to disease.
Here's some reading on current QT recommendations if you haven't seen it.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/
 
Thank you! i live in Tasmania, Australia and its an island so marine fish are limited. there is only two fish stores in the whole state that sell marine fish, and only one sells corals so buying fish local can be pricey.
If i really want a lot of options, i have to buy inline. also a quarantine tank is possible, just a bit of a pain to do 🙄.
 
I don't like to suggest it, especially with new hobbyists, but it can be done, I haven't qt'd in about 20 years. The idea is complete stress reduction. I feel that lots of rock is important, fish need to hide, and they like to swim in and out of the rocks. If you have a minimum rockscape or just that one arch in the middle of the tank, then forget you need to qt. Keep a light fish load, peaceful and compatible fish only, and feed them often. Its complete stress reduction, any amount of stress can trigger hidden illnesses or disease.
 
i think i have enough rock work, but ill let you be the juje
I don't like to suggest it, especially with new hobbyists, but it can be done, I haven't qt'd in about 20 years. The idea is complete stress reduction. I feel that lots of rock is important, fish need to hide, and they like to swim in and out of the rocks. If you have a minimum rockscape or just that one arch in the middle of the tank, then forget you need to qt. Keep a light fish load, peaceful and compatible fish only, and feed them often. Its complete stress reduction, any amount of stress can trigger hidden illnesses or disease.
i think i have enough rock work, but ill let you be the judge of that. here is a link to a youtube channel that has my videos on it.
https://www.youtube.com/@AquaMarineTanksFish
ignore the old tank, i got rid of it. the one i have now ins in the newest video called my new Waterbox 220.6

also interested to hear if you buy fish online? as mentioned above you cant tell how healthy the fish is that way? thank
 
i think i have enough rock work, but ill let you be the juje

i think i have enough rock work, but ill let you be the judge of that. here is a link to a youtube channel that has my videos on it.
https://www.youtube.com/@AquaMarineTanksFish
ignore the old tank, i got rid of it. the one i have now ins in the newest video called my new Waterbox 220.6

also interested to hear if you buy fish online? as mentioned above you cant tell how healthy the fish is that way? thank
I've never bought a fish online and that might be a big part of it too, I live in the city and there are many LFS's here
 
nice! glad i could get some input from an experienced hobbyist.
 
i know it is a good thing to do, but have any long term hobbyists got by without doing it? even if i do decide to quarantine, how would i go about it? just observe or treat with medication? thank you in advance!

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

If you are buying wild caught fish that have not been fully quarantined, you should set up a proactive process for them. This link is where we keep our updated quarantine protocol:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/

I'm not sure what medications you have available to you though.....
 
The two people that first responded to you are both very knowledgeable and IMO fish experts. Both of them have given me advice over the past year and a half.

I buy from two different local stores. One keep their salinity at 1.018 so they can be masking disease, even if all the fish look great. The other fish store I buy from keeps their tanks at 1.024 but always has copper and prazipro in them

From The first store I always do my own quarantine. For the second fish store I do observation first but I never put any fish directly into my display tank.

I also buy from Dr reef who pre-quarantines fish.

So I think a lot of it has to do with who you buy from.

With few exceptions the fish medics will recommend you quarantine 100% of everything that has not been quarantined by a reliable online vendor like Dr reef. And even then, some of them think you should do your own quarantining..

Mr. Mojo rising has a lot more experience than I do but in my experience shows a sick fish will break out even if stress-free with great rock work.

You of course will make your own decision, but I listen to Jay Hemdals advice on this subject.
 
Having experiencing marine velvet I will never add a fish to my display without a minimum of 45 days in observation. I have 3 tangs that survived that outbreak after I moved them all into copper for treatment and have now been with me for 6,9 and 10 years. I lost more than I saved 😥
Personally I would not skip QT because it's a hassle. A hassle to me is trying to rush a hospital tank set up to treat a tank full of sick fish.
I lost too many fish when I tried medicating every fish I purchased. I'm sure it was something I did but not knowing what I did wrong I decided to switch to observation.
I used it as an excuse to set up another tank 😉 I keep a 40g running with 2 small fish and all my new arrivals go in so I can monitor them. I also use the time to condition my new fish to tank life and get them eating foods I feed.
At the end of the day it's a personal decision and we all make our own choice based on our risk tolerance and experience. I don't recommend not to QT just because I don't because not everyone has the ability to be as selective as I can be when I buy fish. I feel that is the most important step to success and not everyone is able to complete that step so QT becomes more important.
I recently had a reefer 300 fail and used the opportunity to upgrade my observation tank. I know have a 40g complete with sump and reef mat. Thanks redsea lol

My observation tank 😀
PXL_20260823_185729518.MP.jpg


PXL_20260810_000100701~2.jpg


PS. I introduced velvet when unbeknownst to me I added a fish that was housed in 1.015 salinty and low level copper. 48 hours after acclimating it to 1.025 and adding it my DT it died and others began to follow.
 
i know it is a good thing to do, but have any long term hobbyists got by without doing it? even if i do decide to quarantine, how would i go about it? just observe or treat with medication? thank you in advance!

I am not a long term hobbyist, but I aim to be - 2 years and running now.

I am not a QT person and have gotten away with it. That said, when I buy fish NOW it is only from a trusted source. Either a place that does the QT, or my local guy that services aquariums.

And I 100% know this is not exactly safe, but it is what I do.
 

WHICH PART OF YOUR SETUP IS HARDEST TO REACH OR REMOVE FOR ROUTINE MAINTENANCE?

  • Glass behind or beside the tank

    Votes: 6 30.0%
  • Powerheads or wavemakers

    Votes: 2 10.0%
  • Sump or rear filtration chambers

    Votes: 2 10.0%
  • Skimmer or other filtration equipment

    Votes: 1 5.0%
  • Overflow or plumbing

    Votes: 6 30.0%
  • Lights or lids

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Mine is pretty easy to access!

    Votes: 2 10.0%
  • Other—tell us what I missed

    Votes: 1 5.0%
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