Questions after reading the supreme guide

[deadman1204]

I read through the supreme beginners guide and have a few questions if anyone is willing to help out.

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium Introduction The marine environment is one of the most complex systems on the planet. The aquarium you are about to set up is only a tiny sliver of the vast ocean, but it is nowhere near simple. This task is going to take patience, a...

www.reef2reef.com

A few things I'm not sure about from it:
1. Is a "sump" a separate tank that you do all your utility stuff in (filter, skim, airate)?
1a. If so, does it need to be a significant size compared to the "display" tank? So a 75 gallon display might need a 40 gallon sump tank?
1b. Assuming all that is correct, why such a large sump tank?

2. Looking at a reef tank with a focus more on inverts over fish, will all tanks have the same amount of filters, even if theres lots of shimp, mollusks, filter feeders, ect? Assuming under 100 gallon tank.
2a. Is the "filtering" 2 things, a protein skimmer and something like a canister filter?

3. Are there water coolers? While I obviously need a heater, we try to be env friendly and don't close windows/turn on AC until it gets closer to 90. Is that a problem in the summer?

4. Quarantine. The guide mentioned keeping things locked up for 8 weeks. wow, so is there another tank with a complete setup (filters and such) for them before going into the main tank (since you cannot share water)?
4a. How do you manage lights for corals to feed them if they're in jail for 8ish weeks?
4b. Can everything share the same jail cell? Or do you gotta run several at once?
4c. How does this work with starting a new setup? Is quarantine skipped at first since there's nothing to make sick yet in the main tank? If its needed, how does this work with 8 weeks each?
4d. this seems too complicated and I feel like I'm missing something.

5. What exactly is a power head?

6. I have a well with safe to drink water. We do treat it to remove some metals and crap. Can I just use that (Assuming I treat it for stuff before hand), or will I need to get a reverse osmosis device that can produce 50+ gallons at a time?

Thanks for the help :)

 

[JTP424]

I read through the supreme beginners guide and have a few questions if anyone is willing to help out.

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium Introduction The marine environment is one of the most complex systems on the planet. The aquarium you are about to set up is only a tiny sliver of the vast ocean, but it is nowhere near simple. This task is going to take patience, a...

www.reef2reef.com

A few things I'm not sure about from it:
1. Is a "sump" a separate tank that you do all your utility stuff in (filter, skim, airate)?
1a. If so, does it need to be a significant size compared to the "display" tank? So a 75 gallon display might need a 40 gallon sump tank?
1b. Assuming all that is correct, why such a large sump tank?

2. Looking at a reef tank with a focus more on inverts over fish, will all tanks have the same amount of filters, even if theres lots of shimp, mollusks, filter feeders, ect? Assuming under 100 gallon tank.
2a. Is the "filtering" 2 things, a protein skimmer and something like a canister filter?

3. Are there water coolers? While I obviously need a heater, we try to be env friendly and don't close windows/turn on AC until it gets closer to 90. Is that a problem in the summer?

4. Quarantine. The guide mentioned keeping things locked up for 8 weeks. wow, so is there another tank with a complete setup (filters and such) for them before going into the main tank (since you cannot share water)?
4a. How do you manage lights for corals to feed them if they're in jail for 8ish weeks?
4b. Can everything share the same jail cell? Or do you gotta run several at once?
4c. How does this work with starting a new setup? Is quarantine skipped at first since there's nothing to make sick yet in the main tank? If its needed, how does this work with 8 weeks each?
4d. this seems too complicated and I feel like I'm missing something.

5. What exactly is a power head?

6. I have a well with safe to drink water. We do treat it to remove some metals and crap. Can I just use that (Assuming I treat it for stuff before hand), or will I need to get a reverse osmosis device that can produce 50+ gallons at a time?

Thanks for the help :)

I'll answer what I can, others can chime in :)
1- Yes. It can contain all the "utilitarian" items to help remove from your display. Before technology and understanding improved, you would want it to be significantly sized, almost the same size. Now, I believe the rule is simply however large you can make it comfortably. The larger it is the better for stability, as well as more room for more equipment etc. More answers to come!

 

[Jasonak]

A few things I'm not sure about from it:
1. Is a "sump" a separate tank that you do all your utility stuff in (filter, skim, airate)?
1a. If so, does it need to be a significant size compared to the "display" tank? So a 75 gallon display might need a 40 gallon sump tank?
1b. Assuming all that is correct, why such a large sump tank?

Ive not read that guide, but if it dosent explain what a sump is, its not very good one.

Anywho, the bigger the sump the better of course. But it is just what you said another tank, 40 gallon breeders are popular. That is used to hold your gear and normally macro algae also. With separate compartments for each. I have a 40 on my 75 and a 90 on my 330, Its just has to be big enough to hold your skimmer, macro algae, and return pump most people have there heater in there also. It does not have to be big but the more water volume you have overall the longer it takes for large shifts to happen. Some people use aquariums some use feed troughs. It can be under your aquarium off to the side or even in another room.

 

[JTP424]

2 - Not all tanks will have the same amount or types of filters. You can tailor it to your needs.
There are multiple types of filters. Mechanical Filtration, Biological Filtration, and I think they state Chemical as well.... (Don't quote me on the last one)
I read somewhere on here a protein skimmer is like the sewage treatment plant of your tank, that's a pretty good way to call it. Mechanical filtration is just some mesh/filter pads etc, biological is your media etc.
A canister can typically do mechanical and biological. You don't NEED a protein skimmer, but can be beneficial depending on your tank type etc.

 

[JTP424]

3 - yes, but the fancy ones are several hundred dollars. If you're going a large tank you would want to look into one. Smaller tanks can typically get away with fans across the surface etc.

5 - anything that moves water :)

 

[EnterName]

I read through the supreme beginners guide and have a few questions if anyone is willing to help out.

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium Introduction The marine environment is one of the most complex systems on the planet. The aquarium you are about to set up is only a tiny sliver of the vast ocean, but it is nowhere near simple. This task is going to take patience, a...

www.reef2reef.com

A few things I'm not sure about from it:
1. Is a "sump" a separate tank that you do all your utility stuff in (filter, skim, airate)?
1a. If so, does it need to be a significant size compared to the "display" tank? So a 75 gallon display might need a 40 gallon sump tank?
1b. Assuming all that is correct, why such a large sump tank?

2. Looking at a reef tank with a focus more on inverts over fish, will all tanks have the same amount of filters, even if theres lots of shimp, mollusks, filter feeders, ect? Assuming under 100 gallon tank.
2a. Is the "filtering" 2 things, a protein skimmer and something like a canister filter?

3. Are there water coolers? While I obviously need a heater, we try to be env friendly and don't close windows/turn on AC until it gets closer to 90. Is that a problem in the summer?

4. Quarantine. The guide mentioned keeping things locked up for 8 weeks. wow, so is there another tank with a complete setup (filters and such) for them before going into the main tank (since you cannot share water)?
4a. How do you manage lights for corals to feed them if they're in jail for 8ish weeks?
4b. Can everything share the same jail cell? Or do you gotta run several at once?
4c. How does this work with starting a new setup? Is quarantine skipped at first since there's nothing to make sick yet in the main tank? If its needed, how does this work with 8 weeks each?
4d. this seems too complicated and I feel like I'm missing something.

5. What exactly is a power head?

6. I have a well with safe to drink water. We do treat it to remove some metals and crap. Can I just use that (Assuming I treat it for stuff before hand), or will I need to get a reverse osmosis device that can produce 50+ gallons at a time?

Thanks for the help :)

I'll answer what I can, others can chime in :)
1- Yes. It can contain all the "utilitarian" items to help remove from your display. Before technology and understanding improved, you would want it to be significantly sized, almost the same size. Now, I believe the rule is simply however large you can make it comfortably. The larger it is the better for stability, as well as more room for more equipment etc. More answers to come!

Just a tiny addition: Remember that the sump needs to be able to hold enough water so when the return pump fails it doesn't overflow.

 

[EnterName]

6. Depends on what's in the water. You would need to get proper testing done. Very often there is a lot of nitrate, iron, or copper in the water that can cause a lot of trouble in a tank even though it's fine for human consumption.

I highly recommend having a Reverse osmosis system with de-ionization cartridge(s) so you consistently have pure water that is suitable for your tank. Well water can change in quality over time and even if it is fine during winter, it might not be fine in summer, etc.

 

[Jasonak]

5. What exactly is a power head?

What old people call wavemakers LOL

 

[Jasonak]

Ive not read that guide, but if it dosent explain what a sump is, its not very good one.

Edit: bwhaha LOL oops I just saw that Rev wrote that,,, so yeah I mean that sounds like a amazing guide :)

 

[deadman1204]

Ive not read that guide, but if it dosent explain what a sump is, its not very good one.

Anywho, the bigger the sump the better of course. But it is just what you said another tank, 40 gallon breeders are popular. That is used to hold your gear and normally macro algae also. With separate compartments for each. I have a 40 on my 75 and a 90 on my 330, Its just has to be big enough to hold your skimmer, macro algae, and return pump most people have there heater in there also. It does not have to be big but the more water volume you have overall the longer it takes for large shifts to happen. Some people use aquariums some use feed troughs. It can be under your aquarium off to the side or even in another room.

why would I Wanna keep my macroalgae (I'm assuming you mean like red seaweed or such) in the sump tank and not the display tank. Does the sump tank also need lights and stuff if your keeping algae in it?

 

[JTP424]

why would I Wanna keep my macroalgae (I'm assuming you mean like red seaweed or such) in the sump tank and not the display tank. Does the sump tank also need lights and stuff if your keeping algae in it?

Here's a thread that digs into that a bit :)

Why shouldn't macrogae be in your display?

If you've read my posts, you know that all of my displays are macroalgae dominant, with little to no coral. I recently was told by some hobbyists that macroalgae does not belong in a display, especially caulerpa, and only should be in a sump or refugium. That also makes me realize that I know...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Reef Jedi]

Let me try to answer the best I can in my personal ways and experience in the hobby. I started my reefing journey in 2003 and worked in 2 LFS through Highschool and college as some background info. Not everyone will agree with what I’m about to say however with many things in this hobby, there are multiple ways to achieve the same goal. So just keep that in mind as you move forward.


A few things I'm not sure about from it:
1. Is a "sump" a separate tank that you do all your utility stuff in (filter, skim, airate)?

—Yes, a sump is a separate tank under or next to your main display. The idea is to create more water volume for your entire system. A benefit is also the ability to house a lot of your equipment. Most people will put filters (filter socks or rollermat), heaters, protein skimmer, macro algae, and dosing equipment as some examples. It’s not required to have a sump, you can use mechanical filtration with a canister filter. However your experience will be much better if you use a sump. In the long run you will be much happier you did.

1a. If so, does it need to be a significant size compared to the "display" tank? So a 75 gallon display might need a 40 gallon sump tank?

—Yes, that is a good rule to follow. Most people will fit the largest sump they can fit into the stand. As an example, I have a 105 gallon tank and a 35 gallon sump. It’s the largest sump I could fit into this stand. It’s large enough I can house all my equipment. If my stand didn’t have a “dedicated” dry side, then my sump would be bigger. No matter what, you want to size it appropriately so if power is lost or the return pump is turned off, the sump does not overflow due to back syphon from the main tank. There’s always to prevent this further by adding a one way valve on your return pump so water can’t back-flow into the sump.

1b. Assuming all that is correct, why such a large sump tank?

—More water volume = more stable parameters. Essentially squeezing every ounce of water volume out of the space you have.

2. Looking at a reef tank with a focus more on inverts over fish, will all tanks have the same amount of filters, even if theres lots of shimp, mollusks, filter feeders, ect? Assuming under 100 gallon tank.

—Regardless of what is housed in the main display, you’ll want some sort of filtration like filter socks or a rollermat to help polish the water column.

2a. Is the "filtering" 2 things, a protein skimmer and something like a canister filter?

—A protein skimmer is a cone shaped tube that jets water around while sucking in air to create bubbles that get pushed to the top and into a collection cup. The idea behind it is to mimic the beach and natural ocean’s way of removing in organic material from the water like fish poop, pee and other inorganics. A protein skimmer is not necessary however it does help as another layer of filtration to keep clear water. Chances are you will not need a protein skimmer for at least the first couple months of running a tank and it also depends on bio load before you actually need one. Some people swear by them, some don’t use them and are also very successful. That choice is up to you, I’ve always run one.

3. Are there water coolers? While I obviously need a heater, we try to be env friendly and don't close windows/turn on AC until it gets closer to 90. Is that a problem in the summer?

—Yes that can be a problem! You want stable parameters as much as you can. You really don’t want temperature swings and want to avoid it as much as possible. Keeping the water at a steady 78° let’s say is ideal for the inhabitants and corals. Corals can handle a variance of temperature swings. However it’s not ideal. When water gets above 80°, it holds less oxygen and in a reef tank setting can be a big issue. Leading to death and loss. Remember everyone saying the reefs are dying and bleaching? That’s from water becoming too hot and unfortunately sunscreen. They do make Chillers that you can run that will keep your tank stable though the summer months. This was a constant battle I had with my wife this last summer. She wanted the windows open all the time and it caused the house to get pretty hot. I had some major issues in the reef tank because of it and next summer I’m buying a chiller and then I don’t care if the windows are open and it’s 90+ in the house.

4. Quarantine. The guide mentioned keeping things locked up for 8 weeks. wow, so is there another tank with a complete setup (filters and such) for them before going into the main tank (since you cannot share water)?
4a. How do you manage lights for corals to feed them if they're in jail for 8ish weeks?
4b. Can everything share the same jail cell? Or do you gotta run several at once?
4c. How does this work with starting a new setup? Is quarantine skipped at first since there's nothing to make sick yet in the main tank? If its needed, how does this work with 8 weeks each?
4d. this seems too complicated and I feel like I'm missing something.

— I’m going to lump all 4. Questions into one and this is where I may or may not get roasted for this info. I personally do not quarantine anything. I’ve never quarantined anything in my 22 years of reef keeping. Personally I watch fish in the store for a while and inspect them really well before buying one. I have dipped a couple corals for fun however same thing, I inspect and throw in. The only time this has ever been a problem for me is I’ve gotten flatworms twice in all my time. They are easy to get rid of and are more annoying than anything else. I’m not gonna say don’t quarantine, I’m just giving my personal expertise that I’ve never had a problem. I know there are parts of this hobby that can get super over complicated. I’ve seen far too many posts on here of people stressing fish while in quarantine and the fish not making it. It makes me wonder if they just threw it in the DT would it have had any problems at all? To actually answer your question, yes it’s a separate small tank with only a heater and a filter on it. No carbon in the filter depending on what you are trying to treat. Corals and fish can be in the same QT tank and go through the process together. For corals specifically, they really only need a dip in solution then they are good to go in the main tank. Fish are the ones who can carry diseases like Ich for example. That can spread to other fish and become a big issue if not treated. So take my thoughts on QT with a grain of salt. There will be a lot of people who completely disagree with this advice I’m giving you. Honestly this is just my experience over the years and everyone’s is different.


5. What exactly is a power head?

—A power head is a pump that is on the inside of the display tank. Its purpose is to move water around the tank creating surface agitation and current for fish and corals. There are many power heads on the market. So many you can get lost in what they all do. Some good ones are vortechs, tunze, AI or Jebo’s to take a look at. It’s best practice to place one on opposite ends of the tank and create random flow patterns. That’s been the gold standard for years.

6. I have a well with safe to drink water. We do treat it to remove some metals and crap. Can I just use that (Assuming I treat it for stuff before hand), or will I need to get a reverse osmosis device that can produce 50+ gallons at a time?

— In my opinion an RODI with booster pump is a must in your case. You’ll need a booster pump being on a well pump. That will make the RODI machine efficient due to your pressure on a well pump. No matter the water, the fish and corals we keep are very sensitive to water quality. You need a filter to remove all the crap out of the water so you are truly left with H2O. Then your salt mix will add back in trace elements that are beneficial to your reef inhabitants. If you simply use well water regardless what it’s treated with you’re going to have some serious issues. There’s a lot of stuff in water that you can’t see. However after using one for a little, you’ll be amazed what that pre filter will pull out and you’ll visually see it. A benefit of getting one is you can tap into it, run a separate spigot to your sink and have nice clean water for your self too. Just add a drinking water filter inline and enjoy clean water from the well. A 50 gallon a day RODI is most likely sufficient for your needs starting out. Just make sure it’s optimized with an inline pump to achieve 60-80 psi for efficency.

I hope this helps explain your questions from another perspective. There’s many ways to do this hobby and be very successful. A good mention is BRS videos on setting up a new tank as well as their 52 weeks of reefing videos.

Any questions don’t hesitate to ask and happy reefing!