Quick Ammonia in QT

kkgaskin90 · May 21, 2015

Ammonia in quarantine I think I'm losing a fish to it-could a quick water change save it? Also, is there something I can put in that will help in jam? It's a bare bottom QT. how big of a water change?

tigerdragon · May 21, 2015

Do a 20% wc and hit it with prime get carbon in filter if you have one going. Do a wc now, day after tomorrow do another and so on and I would get an ammonia badge for qt.

4FordFamily · May 21, 2015

Do not use prime if you have any medication in the qt particularly copper products like cupramine

4FordFamily · May 21, 2015

Also if your fish is dying from ammonia poisoning, 20% isn't going to do much of anything...

kkgaskin90 · May 21, 2015

We lost the first one before we could even get water. Did a 50% water change and added prime. No medications running. The 2 remaining seem ok for now-hopefully they will still be ok in the morning.

4FordFamily · May 21, 2015

Sounds like your qt is heavily stocked. Frequent large water changes may be necessary. Also, invest in seachem' ammonia badge. It will show you true ammonia levels (even with cupramine in the water which reads false positives for most tests).

My 55 qt is very heavily stocked and requires 75%+ water changes daily.

4FordFamily · May 21, 2015

It may also help if we know the species of fish that are seemingly affected and that are in this qt

kkgaskin90 · May 21, 2015

There's 3 Bartlett's Anthias in there (it's only a 10g) each 1.5" long except the little guy was about 1". I was doing 20% changes every other day.
Definitely need Ammonia badge-I'll get on that tonight, thanks. Hubby asked at LFS but he was told "those don't exist anymore and are only for freshwater"...

Humblefish · May 22, 2015

kkgaskin90 said:
Hubby asked at LFS but he was told "those don't exist anymore and are only for freshwater"...

And this is why online is kicking every LFS *** (see links below)

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...X&subref=AA&ref=6111&cmpid=03csegb&kpid=21523

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116001007-Ammonia-Alert/dp/B000255R5G

4FordFamily · May 22, 2015

Humblefish said:
And this is why online is kicking every LFS *** (see links below)

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...X&subref=AA&ref=6111&cmpid=03csegb&kpid=21523

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116001007-Ammonia-Alert/dp/B000255R5G

Agree.

My lfs sells them. Both do actually.

kkgaskin90 · May 22, 2015

Oh I ordered Seachem badge last night from Amazon. Just annoyed that the LFS owner gave bad info... Again.

kkgaskin90 · May 22, 2015

I quarantine everything but still try to find reputable fish sources. Any tips on where to find them? Locally is a no-go.

Humblefish · May 22, 2015

OK let's resolve the ammonia in QT problem once and for all. There are many ways to do this, so below is just my preferred method:

First thing you need is an Aquaclear HOB powerfilter. Which model? Well, that depends on your size QT. Typically, I use the AC50 on my 10-20 gal QTs, but bump it up to the AC70 for my 29gal. They also make an AC110 for larger QTs (55-75). However, you can always turn the flow down if needed ... so don't be afraid to get a bigger one than you think you'll actually need.

Why Aquaclear? Because they come with these really porous sponge/foam inserts (see pics at bottom), great for housing nitrifying bacteria which breaks down ammonia once you run water thru it. You can also buy replacement foam inserts for cheap (online).

How do I "seed" my foam insert with nitrifying bacteria? There are two ways. First is the way I do it ... it's the cheap way but also takes about a month. I place the foam (or multiples) in a high flow area of my DT’s sump (or you can put it behind your rocks) for at least one month prior to QT. This one month allows time for enough beneficial bacteria to transfer onto the sponge, so that it may be used as biological filtration once placed back in the power filter and used in QT. In actuality, I always just keep a foam or two going down in my sump, so I'm always ready for QT. Option #2 is to instantly seed your sponge with one of these bacteria in a bottle products: Bio-Spira, Seachem Stability, Dr Tim's Nitrifying Bacteria, etc. If you go with this option, you will want to slowly pour the bottle over the foam while it is inside the powerfilter chamber with just a little SW covering it. Let it sit for about an hour, before turning the powerfilter on, so that the bacteria can "settle" into their new home (the foam.) Also, it's best not to use copper (or any medication) for a few days to allow time for the bacteria to begin colonizing.

As mentioned previously, these foams are highly porous and capable of housing mass quantities of nitrifying bacteria to break down ammonia. They also do not absorb medications (such as copper) like LR does. I've never had any absorption or ammonia issues while using them. The only WCS I ever do in QT (using airline hose) is to siphon uneaten food/fish poop off the bottom (only because it bothers me. ;))

P.S. I never use the carbon bag/ceramic noodle thingys that come with the Aquaclear HOB powerfilter. Only the foam/sponge insert. If I need to run carbon in one of my QTs (which is rare), I only use Rox 0.8 is a media bag (or reactor) due to HLLE concerns.

4FordFamily · May 22, 2015

kkgaskin90 said:
Oh I ordered Seachem badge last night from Amazon. Just annoyed that the LFS owner gave bad info... Again.

Not uncommon at all. Lfs deal only with repercussions of their actions in the short term (fish aren't around long term).

There are those that are true hobbyists and keep their own tanks at home - but those lfs employees that keep difficult or expert level fish and coral will give the best advice.

For instance, I didn't worry about ich at all for the first ten years in this hobby. My easy and intermediate fish (some of them anyway) could fight off ich and my display tanks always had them without issue. When I started keeping powder blues, Achilles tangs, clown tangs, powder brown, moorish idol, regal Angels, and even potters Angels (although I had a few make it in systems with ich I killed too many to get to that point) I had to change my strategy and handling.

My wrasse tank still has ich, with leopard wrasses, fairy wrasses, halichoeres wrasses, some fire fish, two clowns, a blonde naso, and a bangai Cardinal that are seemingly unaffected.

Long term though I am going to run them all through ttm and rid them of crypt. Probably when I upgrade to my two 10' tanks so that I can turn the 125 gallon wrasse tank in to a quarantine.

All fish that go in to either of my 180 must go through cupramine and a few rounds of ttm from here out.

kkgaskin90 · May 22, 2015

Very helpful! Thank you :) I've done the seeded sponge before... Don't have an excuse as to why I didn't this time :( bad

tigerdragon · May 22, 2015

Reputable fish suppliers so far I have good luck with live aquaria and blue zoo aquatics

kkgaskin90 · May 22, 2015

That's why mine are all QT'd now... I tore my display apart during an Ich outbreak and treated everyone. Ran fallow for 77 days. No 1 fish is worth my whole tank, so no exceptions.

rlman41299 · May 22, 2015

Are you sure ammonia is kiling them? I don't think 3 anthias will cause ammonia spike that bad. How much are you feeding them?
I currently am running 2 qt and one of them is a 10g and I have coral beauty, flagfin, goldflake, swallowtail and a pair of clown in there and have no ammonia spike. I do 40% WC every 4-5 days and feed every other day for just a pinch and what they can consume immediately.
Yes I know it's overcrowded

tigerdragon · May 22, 2015

Quarantining doesn't necessarily mean medicate its used to observe the fish for signs of disease and to make sure of its health and that it is eating good if no disease shows in a few weeks to a couple of months should be good to go

kkgaskin90 · May 22, 2015

Pretty sure

I'm feeding little amounts often.-usually 4 times per day. Anthias need to be fed often.

And I don't treat unless there's a problem. Might PraziPro just in case...