Radion g6 pro vs blue
- Thread starter Calireefer92
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buruskeee
Well-Known Member
Definitely find out if you’ll run the AB spectrum. If you want more of a halide (white) look get the pro. If you end up getting pro and find yourself running AB spectrum more, you’re losing out on PAR/efficiency.
Try looking at both spectrums in person (go look at a pro and look at it at full spectrum and then AB)
Try looking at both spectrums in person (go look at a pro and look at it at full spectrum and then AB)
Calireefer92
Well-Known Member
I think I would be using ab+ looking to achieve better growth and color
Calireefer92
Well-Known Member
Why would you go with the pro?
buruskeee
Well-Known Member
Then get the blues for the most efficient use of your watts. You’ll still have the ability to use a white spectrum (10-12k at lower par/higher intensity) for viewing/pics, but you want whatever spectrum you’ll be using the most as your default spectrum.
cubalibre79
New Member
Hello together,
If u have the blues pls can u send me a picture with ab+ on mobius with 100%. I have the pro‘s but I love the blue …
If i use ab+ or wwc i feel it’s maybe not enough power the pro version reach ~ 70% mark @ 100% Intensity.
greetings
Kevin
If u have the blues pls can u send me a picture with ab+ on mobius with 100%. I have the pro‘s but I love the blue …
If i use ab+ or wwc i feel it’s maybe not enough power the pro version reach ~ 70% mark @ 100% Intensity.
greetings
Kevin
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sean151
Community Member
AB+ on Blues are 100% by default. For the Pros AB+ is a lower percentage of total output on the device because the Pros have less blue coloration available to push. So to hit AB+ spectrum it requires a mix and match of intensities across the individual LED coloring. Like everyone said if you want AB+ then do get the Blues or you will lose PAR running AB+ on Pros. If you prefer a more customized and whiter look, then the Pros are generally the more preferred option. Both will grow corals just fine and if you don't plan to run 100% intensity then maybe you can choose Pros and have options.
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djkms
Active Member
I first started to purchase the Blue's for my 600. Sold them and went with the Pros. I have 8 over my tank. If you want even somewhat of a natural looking spectrum you will want to go with the pros. If you are fine with the windex/blue only look then blues will be somewhat better.
The blues were just way to blue and I was not able to get them white enough for my liking. You can almost get the pro's "blue enough" to mimic the blues. There is no way you can even remotely come close to get the blue's to mimic the pros. The pros will give you more PAR but you are punching the PAR numbers up with white spectrum to achieve this. There is just a ton more flexibility with pros then there are with blues IMO. I run a white schedule half the day and more blue the other half the day.
The blues were just way to blue and I was not able to get them white enough for my liking. You can almost get the pro's "blue enough" to mimic the blues. There is no way you can even remotely come close to get the blue's to mimic the pros. The pros will give you more PAR but you are punching the PAR numbers up with white spectrum to achieve this. There is just a ton more flexibility with pros then there are with blues IMO. I run a white schedule half the day and more blue the other half the day.
buruskeee
Well-Known Member
Camera shots with LEDs tend to be bluer and you really have to look at the spectrums in person to figure out what you prefer.
This is not 100%. I have to run 50% because I have 3 fixtures. I’m at 450PAR (mind you higher PAR using a heavy blue is more sensitive to coral than whites) at the top rocks and 250PAR center sand (180PAR in corners). 100% would just be brighter. I also took PAR readings to run 10k spectrum and I needed about 65% overall intensity since there’s less whites.
Figure out what you want to run at your peak schedule and then choose your fixture. Pro and Blue all can run the same spectrums, but at what PAR is the difference. Regardless of blending spectrums in your scheduled, if you know you’re going to run high PAR for your peak schedule in AB+ get the blues. If you’re going to run high PAR in your peak schedule with whiter spectrum, get the Pro. That way you’re being efficient with your fixtures and not over driving one set of LEDs to get your preferred spectrum.
buruskeee
Well-Known Member
What are you talking about? I can easily run 10k or even 6500 spectrum if I wanted to with sufficient PAR in the exact same spectrum. Unless you already have to run a single XR30 over 70% to achieve your PAR goals, then why would this be a problem?
I’ve had both pros and blues. Originally was going to run more 10k spectrum but then found out that AB+ wasn’t as blue as I first assumed so I swapped out to all blues to be more efficient. In either case both were able to run any spectrum I chose so long as I had the head room for the PAR I wanted.
djkms
Active Member
Guess I should elaborate - In my experience with both lights - I was not able to get the blues nearly as bright as the pros - visually. I had to crank the blues up a lot higher to appear brighter - again to me. Sure, the can probably give the same spectrum but at what cost? Lower visual brightness and cranking up % higher then what I would do with the pros. But hey, this was just my experience with them. Yes, they can both run the same spectrums but its a give and take of what you prefer your lights to look. I prefer a more natural look and the pros suited me better.
cubalibre79
New Member
You‘ve 3 „blues“ ?Camera shots with LEDs tend to be bluer and you really have to look at the spectrums in person to figure out what you prefer.
This is not 100%. I have to run 50% because I have 3 fixtures. I’m at 450PAR (mind you higher PAR using a heavy blue is more sensitive to coral than whites) at the top rocks and 250PAR center sand (180PAR in corners). 100% would just be brighter. I also took PAR readings to run 10k spectrum and I needed about 65% overall intensity since there’s less whites.
Figure out what you want to run at your peak schedule and then choose your fixture. Pro and Blue all can run the same spectrums, but at what PAR is the difference. Regardless of blending spectrums in your scheduled, if you know you’re going to run high PAR for your peak schedule in AB+ get the blues. If you’re going to run high PAR in your peak schedule with whiter spectrum, get the Pro. That way you’re being efficient with your fixtures and not over driving one set of LEDs to get your preferred spectrum.
Pls load wwc sps 1500g and make a screenshot from your mobius @ 100% ( just for the screenshot ).
I‘m fine with my radions, it’s just a thing that i wanna know for me….
when someone load the same schedule with different xr30 (pro/blue).
buruskeee
Well-Known Member
White light is more visible than blue light. This brings back to the fundamental recommendation - buy the fixture that is capable of putting out the most PAR at the preferred spectrum you want to use as peak. If you prefer white lights more, you’re being inefficient by buying blues. Also vice versa. If you like AB+ look more and run that at peak, the buying pros would be very inefficient.
buruskeee
Well-Known Member
I’m not completely sure what you’re asking here. I understand your directions but I’m not understanding the need for the mobius screenshot.
All running modified ab+. I add a bit more white during peak intensity. I get the added bump of higher par on the blues.
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