ok. That is a part of the fan control circuit then. 3906 is a dual transistor. Only one transistor is used, the base is controlled by the mcu, the collector is probably connected to the fan mosfet.
Did you verify the mosfet is good?
Radion XR30 shuts off at high intensity on blue channel - repair
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Did you verify the mosfet is good?
yes。
After I disconnected the diode at the input of TPS62163DSGR, TPS62163DSGR did not work, the mcu did not supply power, and the fan worked normally at this time. When the mcu power supply is normal（I connected the usb interface so that I don’t need the TPS62163DSGR to power the muc）, the fan stops working, which should indicate that the fan control circuit can work normally.
Good job on creating the diagram.
I looked closer at the board over the weekend. I was wrong about the buck converter. The TPS62163DSGR creates the 5V rail, not the 3.3v for the MCU. The 3.3V rail is created elsewhere by another voltage regulator, located closer to the USB port.
If the control circuit is working, then what is wrong with the fan? From your diagram you can see that the purpose of all the transistors is to pull the mosfet gate on and off. The MCU pin controls the speed of the fan. Without the MCU, the fan runs at full speed.
Thank you for your help, the problem has been solved. The input pin of TPS62163DSGR is shorted to GND, and the chip itself can still work normally. As a result, the chip that provides 12v voltage has a working output of 5v to 8v. This causes the fan to not work at full power, and the mcu can still work normally.
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There is not a whole lot of heat generated by the mosfet when it's being run in saturation region under controlled current. Beside the mosfet is attached to the ground plane for heat dissipation.
They do heatsink the inductors though.
I was excited when I saw this thread, as I have a G3 XR15 that does the same thing as this XR30 - i.e. turns off within a second once the lights ramp up when turning on - and was hoping to be able to find a similar issue.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, I guess), I can't see any obvious failures/shorts/corrosion, and the lights kind-of turn on. There are, however, at least 2 LED's that aren't turning on - D8 and D21.
Is the behavior of a burned out LED like I'm seeing, or should things just not work at all?
Unfortunately (or fortunately, I guess), I can't see any obvious failures/shorts/corrosion, and the lights kind-of turn on. There are, however, at least 2 LED's that aren't turning on - D8 and D21.
Is the behavior of a burned out LED like I'm seeing, or should things just not work at all?
I see this almost daily at this point. Willing to bet that D21 is at an almost dead short. Once intensity increases, so does the load on the UV channel. Eventually, circuit protection kicks in and shuts down the light.I was excited when I saw this thread, as I have a G3 XR15 that does the same thing as this XR30 - i.e. turns off within a second once the lights ramp up when turning on - and was hoping to be able to find a similar issue.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, I guess), I can't see any obvious failures/shorts/corrosion, and the lights kind-of turn on. There are, however, at least 2 LED's that aren't turning on - D8 and D21.
Is the behavior of a burned out LED like I'm seeing, or should things just not work at all?
You should be able to test this by programming your light in ecotech live to completely turn off the UV channel. If the rest of the light stays on at high intensity - the problem is likely the burned out and shorted LEDs.
This should all be repairable by replacing LEDs.
Awesome. I'll give that a shot. I followed your Apex powerbar cap fix a few months ago and was able to resurrect one of those...So maybe this will be another win.
It is sad that of 3 XR15's, I'm down to one working one...But maybe we just need to expect this and learn to fix them ourselves...Not ideal for the amount of money we pay for them, but alas.
Thanks for the help.
Happy to hear you got your EB832 fixed. Glad I could help.
UV/Violet LEDs seem to be failing particularly often in these lights. They are also the most expensive and hard to find LEDs to replace.
Here's one of my videos doing a similar repair
Also, same thing discussed in this thread:
Water Damaged Radion Repair or The Mystery of The Red Sticker
FixReef is now also on YouTube! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMAmpCr_0gSwhmTNGzXTPtg Enjoy this repair, now in HD :) It has been awhile since my last repair article. And for a good reason, you guys have been keeping me busy with the repairs. Thank you. Let's take a short break from...
www.reef2reef.com
Yep. Looks like the "Royal Blue" is the culprit...I can go to 100% if I set that to 0. For now, I'll see about creating a program that excludes that but still gives me good spectrum, and then will look at replacing the LED.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
Ecotech is using what's available to them at the time of the design/assembly. Unlike capacitors, the selection of high power LEDs is quite limited, especially if you need to mix exotic colors. They don't have much of a choice. There is a combination of issues with available LED quality and the assembly process. I have seen everything from too little thermal compound, to obvious corrosion where it should have been prevented.
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