Radions G4 pro turning my blue corals green

[Chris Kelly]

Does anyone have direct experience on how to keep the blue color of the corals from changing or fading using radions?

 

[eric.battani]

Is it just changing with the spectrum? Or actually changing color?
What settings are you running?

 

[Jimbo662]

Have they been under radions for a while or did the come from maybe a T5?

 

[Chris Kelly]

changing the color, they have been under radions a while

 

[Mirkus]

Does anyone have direct experience on how to keep the blue color of the corals from changing or fading using radions?

Are you keeping LPS?SPS? softies? I think it might be a parameter issue. my LFS keeps a tank full of green sps under metal halide

 

[Chris Kelly]

sps

 

[oreo54]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/why-do-my-blue-corals-always-turn-green.302894/page-2

That thread "may" help..
From there.. see ToTM link

Having a PAR meter turned out to be indispensable - I was able to ensure proper light coverage and intensity. Once I’ve learned these tricks I was able to keep any high-end acro I wanted, bringing in corals that were grown and coloured under Metal Halides and not losing any color. At the end of the experiment I would consistently get a better color under LEDs than under T5 to everyone’s surprise. Having run this for a year I finally decided to upgrade my main tank lighting to Radions and as of this writing I’ve been running them for over a month with good results.

 

[Dana Riddle]

See here for some possible ideas:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature1

 

[Mirkus]

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/why-do-my-blue-corals-always-turn-green.302894/page-2

That thread "may" help..
From there.. see ToTM link

The op is the same as here

 

[Mirkus]

I'd increase the intensity on your lights (slowly of course)

 

[oreo54]

The op is the same as here

Well DUH on my part.. That was started 3/4 yr ago..

 

[Rakie]

New light = changes. It happens, you can't stop it, and if you pump up the intensity you're just gonna burn and kill the corals.

I can't run my radion above 55% with the diffuser on, or it will toast my SPS.

The stronger UV, and Violet, coupled with the intensity change is going to cause your corals to green. Happens to almost everybody. You will be back to normal in a month or two.

 

[Mirkus]

I don't think his lights are that new.....

I think it's all about acclimation for radions. I'm running mine at 80-82%

 

[Rakie]

I don't think his lights are that new.....

I think it's all about acclimation for radions. I'm running mine at 80-82%

Radion G4, or G3? Because I ran G3's at 85% and no issue at all, G4's my corals started dying at 55%, and that was with two months acclimation from 35% to 60%, I had to cut it short.

 

[Chris Kelly]

im running G4 pros

 

[Rakie]

im running G4 pros

I know you are, I was asking if @Mirkus was. Very often I find when people ask questions related SPECIFICALLY to G4 pro users, G3 users chime in with their outdated 2 cents. Not to be curt, but I had both the G3 and the G4 -- People who only have G3's spout off all kinds of nonsense related to the G4, which they both don't own, nor have any experience with.

This is a common PROBLEM. Because the G4 is significantly more powerful than the G3, and a G3 user may lead a G4 user astray by giving non-pertinent advice, such as running your Radion G4 at higher than X percent -- information not tied to settings is fine. But when a G3 user starts telling a G4 user "I run my radions at 200%, and nothing died !11!" they are not helping anybody. The G4 is outlandishly more powerful than the G3.

When you change a light source, or sometimes even light settings, your corals will react one way or another. Typically, you're going to have them darken up, or change colors. I've had yellow corals go deep purple, and red corals start bleaching.

Changing light is the most stressful thing you can do to a coral. In our tanks, they are not fed plankton -- the light source is where the significant majority of their health come from. Changing that on them is initially pretty troublesome in the LED world. They have to adapt, unlike going from T5 to MH, or vice-versa. Going from anything to LED, or even from LED to another LED, it's a big deal to corals.

 

[Fumanchu]

I know you are, I was asking if @Mirkus was. Very often I find when people ask questions related SPECIFICALLY to G4 pro users, G3 users chime in with their outdated 2 cents. Not to be curt, but I had both the G3 and the G4 -- People who only have G3's spout off all kinds of nonsense related to the G4, which they both don't own, nor have any experience with.

This is a common PROBLEM. Because the G4 is significantly more powerful than the G3, and a G3 user may lead a G4 user astray by giving non-pertinent advice, such as running your Radion G4 at higher than X percent -- information not tied to settings is fine. But when a G3 user starts telling a G4 user "I run my radions at 200%, and nothing died !11!" they are not helping anybody. The G4 is outlandishly more powerful than the G3.

When you change a light source, or sometimes even light settings, your corals will react one way or another. Typically, you're going to have them darken up, or change colors. I've had yellow corals go deep purple, and red corals start bleaching.

Changing light is the most stressful thing you can do to a coral. In our tanks, they are not fed plankton -- the light source is where the significant majority of their health come from. Changing that on them is initially pretty troublesome in the LED world. They have to adapt, unlike going from T5 to MH, or vice-versa. Going from anything to LED, or even from LED to another LED, it's a big deal to corals.

Do you have facts behind that

 

[Rakie]

Do you have facts behind that

The fact that I ran G3's at 85% but can't put G4's above 55% -- Side by side pictures showing how much brighter the G4 is. The 25-30 watt difference in maximum output (nearly an entire Kessil 160 or AI Prime stronger), etc etc etc.

Do you own both, and have a different opinion?

 

[Fumanchu]

No actually I don' but own hydra 52s with t5s but when you said outlandishingly more power I only questioned so I could read the literature myself I definitely was trying to challenge you ,just learn from you

 

[Rakie]

No actually I don' but own hydra 52s with t5s but when you said outlandishingly more power I only questioned so I could read the literature myself I definitely was trying to challenge you ,just learn from you

No worries I was curious too that's why I asked LOL. but It's more complex than just that. Not only is the G4 more powerful (by almost an entire AI Prime), but they boosted the UV, and added a stronger violet. UV is extremely powerful, and hard on corals, especially from an LED (LED penetrates water better than any lighting source we've invented, by a significant amount) -- So the UV/Violet being boosted AND in a stronger fixture = significantly more power than measurable in just PAR / Wattage.

Speaking of PAR, and PUR (which is still sort of vague), PUR is what corals can USE, PAR is just the total amount of light (including unused spectrum's). So an Actinic T5 for example is the lowest PAR bulb out there -- conversely, it's the highest PUR bulb out there. Meaning watt for watt, Actinic lights give more to corals than any other T5 bulb -- This is due to the UV/Violet range. This is why guys like Jason Fox run 100% Actinic T5 bulbs and Reef Brites. That UV/Violet is unmatched in coral health. This is what makes MH so strong, they have naturally higher UV in most of their bulbs than any non-actinic. They also have spikes in the red/yellow range that corals love (even the 20k radiums have this spike)

It's always more complex. Always. Nothing is ever 1+1=2, were always missing giant aspects of the equation, and must play retroactive detective.