Sabellafella
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No thats advice lol poor thing is right the kid ob dont kno better juss feel bad for him
Reef dying
- Thread starter nport19
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ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
Ok cool. Yeah I definitely was not trying to bash at all. Never even had the intention. Sometimes digging out the root causes of our failures sometimes hits soft spots.
OP, to help assist with why your reef is dying - we will need to start with some parameters.
joshkirkland83
Valuable Member
chimmike
Active Member
Power compacts (the bulbs in your cube) generate a ton of heat. That's primarily why your temps are so high. Problem is, to refit LED's will take some MacGuyver-ing (aka DIY). Temp was another thing I battled with a biocube. Getting it below 80 will also stifle some of the algae growth once parameters are monitored and nutrient export is in check.
For the time being, decreasing your photoperiod will decrease the heat transfer from the lights to the water. Also adding something like a computer fan to the hood of the cube may help.
For the time being, decreasing your photoperiod will decrease the heat transfer from the lights to the water. Also adding something like a computer fan to the hood of the cube may help.
Naiad
Valuable Member
What kits are you using? If you have the kit you might as well test to get a base reading on calc. It will only be essential to monitor regularly in a heavily stocked stony coral tank though. I do agree to check phosphate lvls when dealing with an algae issue. You are headed in the right direction! Water changes with ro and the proper filter media to deal with phosphates should turn the rank around [emoji6]
Check foster and smith site for the bulbs. They are going to be, if not already - discontinued. I had the same problem with my daughters nano. I bought up a 2 year supply of them to buy her time to change out to another tank or led unit.
The best/ most accurate phosphate tester is a Hanna Checker. I got a good deal for one on amazon
Oceansize
Active Member
The API test for Phosphates does not have high enough resolution, do not use the API test for Phosphates. The lowest reading besides zero is 0.25 ppm, but you need a more accurate result than that to be of any use.
rygh
Community Member
Above I said you have a big problem with phosphates, but I am going to say something odd:
Don't bother to test for phosphates!
First, as pointed out, the cheap phosphate kits don't register low enough.
And the ultra-low range one is a pain. I have it, but rarely use it.
Key though: with all that Cyano growing, your phosphate levels IN THE WATER will be really low.
That mass will soak it up quick.
Many people are fooled by that.
Don't bother to test for phosphates!
First, as pointed out, the cheap phosphate kits don't register low enough.
And the ultra-low range one is a pain. I have it, but rarely use it.
Key though: with all that Cyano growing, your phosphate levels IN THE WATER will be really low.
That mass will soak it up quick.
Many people are fooled by that.
This.
You just got a ro buddie, IIRC. Use it.
Do big water changes using ro to make fresh salt mix. Do the maximum volume you have capacity to make up at a time.
Match temp and specific gravity (with a refractometer) so you are shocking your fish. I personally would do at several 50% water changes, like once a day for a week. Suck out the cyano as you syphon out water for the water changes. Blow off your rocks, either a turkey baster or powerhead will work, before you start the siphon as well.
Go ahead and order extra filters for the ro buddie as well. I don't think they tend to last very long. A TDS meter can be had for $25, watch that your finished water has a TDS of 0.
Phosphate is probably bound in the rocks, etc. Plan to do aggressive water changes for a bit.
You can get a phosphate tester, but who knows what else is in the tank water since have been using tap. The tank probably has higher levels of "stuff" than is in your tap, since you add more "stuff" every time you top off. Stuff meaning nitrate phosphate metals, all the unwanted things in tap, they don't evaporate, they accumulate with every top off.
IMO, a phosphate test will be handy to have but not a necessity. I think your money would be better spent on salt mix, refractometer, and TDS meter.
If you aren't able to get a handle on things with water changes, then I would worry about testing and using some sort of media to remove phosphates.
OP
OP
nport19
Active Member
Ok so from what I have gathered here you guys are saying no need to test for phosphates correct? I just did a water change of my usal 5 gallons today and sucked out a lot of the red stuff. It's still really thick on my frag rack but for the most part it seems to be gone from the rocks and sand. Everything is look much happier now that I use RO water.
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