Reef Flux and Turf Algae - Anyone have success with this combination

[joe-ejs]

Hello.

I continue to battle what I believe is Turf Algae. I removed 95% of it, and it has come back. I believe low nutrients are the cause as I continue to have to dose NeoPhos and NeoNitrate.

I am considering trying Reef Flux to see if it will fight this algae. I believe Reef Flux will not kill Turf Algae, but I am wondering if anyone has tried and had success. It might be possible that what I have is not exactly Turf Algae, although I believe it is. I just need to win this battle and continue to get frustrated.

Any feedback regarding experience would be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[jda]

Fluc does not usually kill hair algae.

You are directly feeding the algae with the Neo products. Directly.

You need consumers since the algae can grow with very little residual building blocks. Lots of snails, urchins and limpets will mow it down over time. Some fish can do it, but they are so hit or miss, they are hard to recommend. I have no3 at about .1 and po4 at 1-3 ppb and I would grow algae everywhere without things to eat it. The algae can use ammonia for nitrogen and does not even need nitrate, just like the corals.

If you want to give a tank size and amount or rock, you likely will get suggested on the number of things to get. Usually, we are talking dozens if not hundreds of snails.

 

[ReefEco]

+1 on the need for herbivores, and to work that out and nutrients before bombing the tank. What are your current nitrate and phosphate level? Algae is really good at life, so even very low levels it can keep growing. Is your tank large enough for tangs?

 

[joe-ejs]

Fluc does not usually kill hair algae.

You are directly feeding the algae with the Neo products. Directly.

You need consumers since the algae can grow with very little residual building blocks. Lots of snails, urchins and limpets will mow it down over time. Some fish can do it, but they are so hit or miss, they are hard to recommend. I have no3 at about .1 and po4 at 1-3 ppb and I would grow algae everywhere without things to eat it. The algae can use ammonia for nitrogen and does not even need nitrate, just like the corals.

If you want to give a tank size and amount or rock, you likely will get suggested on the number of things to get. Usually, we are talking dozens if not hundreds of snails.

Hello,

Tank size is 110 gallon. Even where there was no visible algae in the tank (for several months)...I could not get my phosphate and nitrates measurable readings. I use Hanna test kits BTW. I was under the impression that the nuisance was a result of low nutrients in the tank. So I then manually removed as much of the algae as I could, then water changes, etc. Once I had it under control, my test kits still showed zero phosphates. I then started dosing to try and get phosphate and nitrate levels detectable. I was also to get a consistent level of Nitrate around 2ppm, but the phosphates stayed at zero.

I did this for about 2 months, and stopped dosing due to bad follow through. Then the algae re-appeared.

Also, the algae I have is very short in height and thick.

what types of snails, urchins and limpets would you recommend?

 

[A Young Reefer]

blue tuxedo urchins were the only thing that worked for my turf algae.

 

[jda]

Tuxeudos, rock and pencils stay near the algae. Pincushions will eat it too, but they wander and can pick up your snails and stuff. Just regular limpets from the Florida Keys usually stay on the rocks and do a good job. Ceriths, astreas from Floriday or Trochus from Pacific are good, but they tend to take to the glass if they can, which is good since somebody needs to clean it. If your tank stays cool, like below 75, then margaritas can work out OK, but they hate higher temps and don't last long. Mexican and zebra turbos mow a lot of algae, but they also suffer with higher temperatures above 75 or 76.

There are people who think that low no3 and po4 on a test kit is a bad thing. Raising no3 and po4 can growth limit (kill) dinos, but the common thought that adding no3 and po4 allows things to grow to compete with the dinos is just wrong. If you have even a trace of no3 and po4, then you are not nitrogen or phosphorous limited and the competing things would have grown anyway. The higher levels kill the dinos or at least growth limit them until the other things can fill in. They dinos and cyano just can colonize faster than the more desirable things.

Don't worry about po4 unless you have a hannah ultra low checker in ppb. Your nitrate at 2.0 is fine. Any reading for po4 is fine. Juts feed your fish well and the corals (and algae, unfortunately) can get all that they need.

 

[joe-ejs]

Tuxeudos, rock and pencils stay near the algae. Pincushions will eat it too, but they wander and can pick up your snails and stuff. Just regular limpets from the Florida Keys usually stay on the rocks and do a good job. Ceriths, astreas from Floriday or Trochus from Pacific are good, but they tend to take to the glass if they can, which is good since somebody needs to clean it. If your tank stays cool, like below 75, then margaritas can work out OK, but they hate higher temps and don't last long. Mexican and zebra turbos mow a lot of algae, but they also suffer with higher temperatures above 75 or 76.

There are people who think that low no3 and po4 on a test kit is a bad thing. Raising no3 and po4 can growth limit (kill) dinos, but the common thought that adding no3 and po4 allows things to grow to compete with the dinos is just wrong. If you have even a trace of no3 and po4, then you are not nitrogen or phosphorous limited and the competing things would have grown anyway. The higher levels kill the dinos or at least growth limit them until the other things can fill in. They dinos and cyano just can colonize faster than the more desirable things.

Don't worry about po4 unless you have a hannah ultra low checker in ppb. Your nitrate at 2.0 is fine. Any reading for po4 is fine. Juts feed your fish well and the corals (and algae, unfortunately) can get all that they need.

jda: So I do use a Hanna ULR Phosphorous Test Kit which even at ULR phosphorous, I consistently get a zero reading.

I had this problem before I dosed NeoPhos and NeoNitrate. I attempted to dose with the "belief" that the nuisance algae was outcompeting the good algae due to low nutrients. Interesting enough, the Turf algae was gone for several weeks until I stopped dosing and then came back, causing my current confusion.

I understand that the slightest level of nutrients (phosphate) is enough for Algae to grow.

I am going order a few Tuxedo and Pencil urchins as part of the treatment plan.

Also, I run my tank at 80. If I get Mexican snails, will they die quickly before they get a chance to help remove the algae?

 

[GarrettT]

Fluconazole won't work on turf algae. You will need a variegated pincushion urchin. I don't think a tuxedo will help much.

 

[jda]

I would NOT get mexican turbos for a tank at 80 degrees. They will die quickly and then add to the bio load since they are quite meaty. Astreas, ceriths and trochus are your best bet at 80 degrees. You could consider turning it down to 74 and getting some mexican turbos. They do good work. I really cannot tell that much of a difference in mid 70s vs 78 anyway. I have never liked to run my tanks at 80 since that was too close to the bad line for me and my acropora if something happened like AC/Fan went out or heater stuck on.

The po4 that you dosed likely got bound to the rocks or gobbled up by the algae. No worry... nothing is likely limited by lack of phosphorous since there are other forms that we cannot test for.

You can get groups of pencils and rock urchins from Florida Keys divers like ReefTopia or caribbean tropicals (there are many more) for pretty cheap. I don't know where to get tux without paying full retail - the ORA ones are tiny like the size of a peanut M&M, so I would avoid those unless you have a really small tank, but they do grow fast. Those same divers sell large packs of crabs, astreas and certiths too. Some have limpets on their sites and some do not - just ask... these are usually small, family shops.

 

[ReefStash]

Worked for me. See here:

Thread 'Beating Bryopsis and Turf Algae with fluconazole'
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/beating-bryopsis-and-turf-algae-with-fluconazole.989288/

 

[joe-ejs]

Hello. So update...I treated 2x with Reef Flux and my Turf Algae (or whatever it was), it completely gone after 3 weeks. So sign of it anywhere at the moment. I also have added a good qty CUC and also 6 urchins to keep it under control if it re-appears.

With no visible algae at the moment, I ran my tests and Nitrate and Phosphate are both measuring undetectable amounts using Hanna Test Kits (ULR for Phosphate and High Nitrate).

So of course as we reefers know, fix one more and create a different one. So I am now getting a brown film or diatoms, silicates or similar on my sand bed and some of the rock. I just did a 30% water change. So what should my next step me to control this new problem? Should I just add some GFO or let it ride its course?

 

[ReefStash]

Hello. So update...I treated 2x with Reef Flux and my Turf Algae (or whatever it was), it completely gone after 3 weeks. So sign of it anywhere at the moment. I also have added a good qty CUC and also 6 urchins to keep it under control if it re-appears.

With no visible algae at the moment, I ran my tests and Nitrate and Phosphate are both measuring undetectable amounts using Hanna Test Kits (ULR for Phosphate and High Nitrate).

So of course as we reefers know, fix one more and create a different one. So I am now getting a brown film or diatoms, silicates or similar on my sand bed and some of the rock. I just did a 30% water change. So what should my next step me to control this new problem? Should I just add some GFO or let it ride its course?

Add some live bacteria… I just went through this whole process. Adding live nitrifying bacteria will help get things back in order.

Here’s a couple of options:
Brightwell Aquatics MicroBacter live bacteria for saltwater aquariums - https://amzn.to/3N5eD2u

Fritz Turbo Start 900 live nitrifying bacteria - https://amzn.to/42Qm4AN

 

[SinkyShippy]

Hello. So update...I treated 2x with Reef Flux and my Turf Algae (or whatever it was), it completely gone after 3 weeks. So sign of it anywhere at the moment. I also have added a good qty CUC and also 6 urchins to keep it under control if it re-appears.

With no visible algae at the moment, I ran my tests and Nitrate and Phosphate are both measuring undetectable amounts using Hanna Test Kits (ULR for Phosphate and High Nitrate).

So of course as we reefers know, fix one more and create a different one. So I am now getting a brown film or diatoms, silicates or similar on my sand bed and some of the rock. I just did a 30% water change. So what should my next step me to control this new problem? Should I just add some GFO or let it ride its course?

How big is your tank to have 6 urchins? I am just battling turf algae really bad right now so I am trying to determine how many I can put in my 75.

 

[joe-ejs]

How big is your tank to have 6 urchins? I am just battling turf algae really bad right now so I am trying to determine how many I can put in my 75.

I bought six for my 90 gallon tank. Also, all my Turf Algae is gone..(or what I believe was turf algae)...Reef Flux did work for me...it is all gone finally. I went with 150% of the dose amount.

 

[SinkyShippy]

I bought six for my 90 gallon tank. Also, all my Turf Algae is gone..(or what I believe was turf algae)...Reef Flux did work for me...it is all gone finally. I went with 150% of the dose amount.

Ok. Thanks! I dosed 150% a couple days ago as well. Fingers crossed. Also gonna get some hermits, chitons, more urchins, maybe some astrea snails