What about the whole Flux rx is better than reef flux thing? They both have the same active ingredient, so why do some reefers claim that rx worked for their GHA while reef flux did not? Could it be because of different dosing instructions?
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Are you going to do a large water change after you dose? I don't want to do this because I also have a lot of water to change if I do but not as much as you. I dose elements and do ATI testing and don't do water changes.They are both Flucanozole, The Flux RX is in bulk powder form, no pulling tiny pill pockets apart to get to the powder.
I have never seen a LFS sell Reef Flux for anything close to but twice the cost. Look at grams your buying and how much you need to does. My system is 850 gallons, so I had to research this to death and this was less than 1/2 the cost. And easier to ditribute and treat the tank.
I would always follow the instructions exactly and do the water changes after treatment.Are you going to do a large water change after you dose? I don't want to do this because I also have a lot of water to change if I do but not as much as you. I dose elements and do ATI testing and don't do water changes.
Im on day 14 of treatment and there has been 0 decrease in GHA. If anything, because of the lack of WCs and no fuge, the gha became thicker and longer. I am starting to lose hope honestly.
Can you send your total water gallons in your system and the amount you dosed, I'd like to double check your dosage.Im on day 14 of treatment and there has been 0 decrease in GHA. If anything, because of the lack of WCs and no fuge, the gha became thicker and longer. I am starting to lose hope honestly.
I tried Flux Rx to kill my GHA and, as far as I can tell, it didn't have the slightest effect.
It might have been due to the fact that I have now a substantial amount of GHA in the system. So the regular dose may not have been enough.
I wonder how soon the treatment can be repeated and how big of an overdose is safe. All my corrals died already so the only things I'm worrying about are fish and anemones.
The algae actually really exploded after I did a long overdue large water change (somewhere between 80 and 90%).
The tank before the water change in December:
And just 2 to 3 weeks after the water change in January:
This here is great info and sound advice !!!Read up on how Fluc works. The more surface areas and negatively charged surfaces that you have for it to bind to, the more that you are going to need, depending on what you are looking to kill. With lots of hair algae, you are going to need to dose a lot over a long period of time. Nobody really knows the effect of doing this in every tank. This variance is why some people have quick, effortless successes and some have huge crashes. This is the same thing with Polyquat that is found in other popular algae supplements.
You can beat this for good, but it will take time, effort, patience and probably some learning. If you are interested in this, then let us know. Consumers, physical removal, managing your residual building blocks, growing other things on the surfaces like coralline algae, bacteria, etc. to deprive hair of places to grow. This works, when you understand how it all works together and stuff. However, you have to pick a way since some of the most effective consumers will not be happy with some of these chemicals.
FWIW - for now, be proud of your tank as-is. Those regals and anthias are amazing. You can get through this. Also, I have a very mature reef and I could have small patches where hair could take hold like that with .1n and 1-3ppb of p if I did not have reliable things to eat/consume it.
Well said. Agree completely.Read up on how Fluc works. The more surface areas and negatively charged surfaces that you have for it to bind to, the more that you are going to need, depending on what you are looking to kill. With lots of hair algae, you are going to need to dose a lot over a long period of time. Nobody really knows the effect of doing this in every tank. This variance is why some people have quick, effortless successes and some have huge crashes. This is the same thing with Polyquat that is found in other popular algae supplements.
You can beat this for good, but it will take time, effort, patience and probably some learning. If you are interested in this, then let us know. Consumers, physical removal, managing your residual building blocks, growing other things on the surfaces like coralline algae, bacteria, etc. to deprive hair of places to grow. This works, when you understand how it all works together and stuff. However, you have to pick a way since some of the most effective consumers will not be happy with some of these chemicals.
FWIW - for now, be proud of your tank as-is. Those regals and anthias are amazing. You can get through this. Also, I have a very mature reef and I could have small patches where hair could take hold like that with .1n and 1-3ppb of p if I did not have reliable things to eat/consume it.
I kind of suspected that the amount of algae has to be considered. So the plan right now is to reduce the algae first before doing another treatment.Read up on how Fluc works. The more surface areas and negatively charged surfaces that you have for it to bind to, the more that you are going to need, depending on what you are looking to kill. With lots of hair algae, you are going to need to dose a lot over a long period of time. Nobody really knows the effect of doing this in every tank. This variance is why some people have quick, effortless successes and some have huge crashes. This is the same thing with Polyquat that is found in other popular algae supplements.
You can beat this for good, but it will take time, effort, patience and probably some learning. If you are interested in this, then let us know. Consumers, physical removal, managing your residual building blocks, growing other things on the surfaces like coralline algae, bacteria, etc. to deprive hair of places to grow. This works, when you understand how it all works together and stuff. However, you have to pick a way since some of the most effective consumers will not be happy with some of these chemicals.
FWIW - for now, be proud of your tank as-is. Those regals and anthias are amazing. You can get through this. Also, I have a very mature reef and I could have small patches where hair could take hold like that with .1n and 1-3ppb of p if I did not have reliable things to eat/consume it.
I tried natural methods and manual removal and it's basically a fight against windmills.It is not just algae that it binds to. The compound is not selective. That is what makes this so hard. If the substance is positively charged, which I think that it is, it can bind to rock and sand too.
I would suggest that you decide if you are going to use chemicals or natural methods. Take your time because it is hard to switch once you decide.
In the mean time, get a siphon hose, fine net and bucket. Start manual removal down the hose, through the net and put the water back in the tank. If you need to, zip tie a stiff brush or something on the end of that siphon hose to get the stuff loose before you suck it down the hose. Do this as much as you have to to keep the algae short and tight.
This will help if you decide on natural methods since it will help urchins the the right snails get down to the "roots." It can also help with the chemicals since they will have less organic tissue in the tank to bind to.
As I was getting at earlier, cutting back in import is no way to win this battle. You have to add consumers and step up the export. Your future corals will always need the import.
All of that, Diadema urchins, snails and hermits by the bucket... The urchins and snails won't touch the long strands. To make matters worse, the urchins actually prefer to eat the coralline algae and by that create even more settling space for GHA.You tried an army of urchins and cerith snails along with a nice pack of real live rock from the ocean somewhere?