Idk what pins the equipment is tied to. When i add a outlet under system it doesnt show up under equipment.
My relay wont do anything. Ive tried putting it to the ground pin as well as the 5 volt pin and it dont change states.
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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- controller raspberry-pi
- Tagged users Ranjib
My relay wont do anything. Ive tried putting it to the ground pin as well as the 5 volt pin and it dont change states.
OP
OP
You have to add equipment after you add outlets. While creating a new equipment (under equipments tab), you should be able to choose the outlet. Its this outlet that will decide which pin is associated with the equipment
Gotcha!
Well with a multimeter i cant read a closure across the pins of the relay. But when i plug in the power cord for the relays they do work.
This must be a scr thing?
Ehen i take the sensor out of the water it comes on and when i put it in the water it goes off. I have it set to 1 sec. for testing.
What should i set it at for the real world?
OP
OP
To me 5 minutes interval is good enough. We have limitations from ds18b20 probe (can not be read multiple time within a single second) as well as adafruit.io (only 10 or so metric per minute) . And I dont think we need temperature per second or even per minute. At least my observation was tank temperature does vary, but lot slowly... I have shared my tank's trend in this thread, for reference. My recommendation will be 5 minute interval, but you can dial it down to 1 as well, if you want
OP
OP
I have got the initial driver code in place : https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/blob/master/controller/utils/dac.go
I still have to work on some API and finally the UI bits on this. Because each breakout board only support 1 channel, there will be more UI work for dac based lighting (users have to specify the DAC i2c address for each channel). Its not difficult, just bit tedious, and I have to spend some time on it. For what its worth, I want to get it done as part of 1.0 release,
OP
OP
Thats a very good question, i do not have answer to that, but I think there is. We need some electronics guru's help here :-/ . Meanwhile, let me google
OP
OP
Can you try this out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Analog-Output-Convert-PWM-to-Voltage/
This will solve the DAC issue without any code changes, and this should be lot cheaper
I wonder if something like this will work?
KNACRO PWM-to-voltage module / 0% -100% PWM converted to 0-10V voltage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XB6J4FV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u9DRzb3F2R5D7
Ill need two. One for the white channel and one for the blue.
OP
OP
@Brad Cox I just cut 0.2.1 release, it has the temperature controller fixes.
https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/releases/tag/0.2.1
happy reefing,
https://github.com/reef-pi/reef-pi/releases/tag/0.2.1
happy reefing,
OP
OP
From the earlier blog post, it seems all we need is an appropriate resistor and capacitor per channel. That seems lot simpler than this. I'll have access to a benchtop oscilloscope soon, so i'll know for sure. Is there a reason you dont want to try the simple capacitor+resistor low pass filter approach ?
OP
OP
STL files? is it in thingiverse ?3d printed my optical sensor mount.
This mounts to a 1/2" pvc pipe and hang on the side of my sump.
OP
OP
This is awesome by the way3d printed my optical sensor mount.
This mounts to a 1/2" pvc pipe and hang on the side of my sump.
njtiger aquariums
Well-Known Member
Yes its on thingiverse.
Its by mtwiley
1/2" pvc optical switch holder
Its fully adjustable as well. Slides up and down the pvc to set the water level.
Dude this is sweet. I wish I had a 3d printer and was that handy to print stuff out.
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