Reef Tank Round 2 - Using Lessons Learned

Hardboiled

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Hi folks,

I thought I would share my progress so far in case it helps others with planning or upgrading a tank.

Tank_Labeled.jpg
tank_34.jpg


My tank is going on 4 months now. It was built around a Red Sea Reefer 170 (Hydra 26HD Light) that I reset with all of my lessons learned.
You can read about my aquascape experience in this thread.

My goals,
  • Fewer wires and parts overall
  • Everything controllable by phone and Alexa
  • No maintenance during the week
  • Minimal precipitation (clean sump)
  • Basic tragedy prevention
Fewer wires and parts overall
I started by building custom plumbing. I did this for two main reasons
  • The manifold reduced the need for additional pumps to feed reactor and refugium, supporting the goal of fewer wires and parts.
  • I think it looks really good (we spend a lot of time in the sump, it should be nice)
The plumbing build would need its own post, but I was largely inspired by SithRico's Youtube video. I did modify it for my sump as seen in the images. I further did not attach the refugium to the hard plumbing (only the output pipe). Instead, I ran the pipe over the top and dropped a section of flexible Loc-Line with a flare nozzle into the refugium chamber for easier removal and less glass drilling.

Tip: Don't skimp on unions in your plumbing. Make sure you can remove any major section for maintenance and cleaning in the long run.

To further reduce visible wires, I run everything immediately out the hole in the back of the cabinet. I use velcro straps to hold wires together. On the back of the cabinet, the wires all connect to a pair of power strips I have attached to the back of the cabinet with velcro tape.

The Nero 3 Powerheads were picked both for their performance and the fact that they only have a small inline controller (I use the phone app to control them). This avoids the large controllers associated with most powerheads.

The Kamoer X1 Pro Dosing Pumps also help reduce wire clutter by supporting chaining on one wall plug. One pump plugs into the next and that one plugs into the wall. Again, both are controlled via a phone app.

Everything controllable by phone and Alexa
To enable phone and Alexa control of all components, I use a pair of Kasa Smart Wi-FI power strips, 6-outlet. These are really amazing. From your phone or using Alexa, you can turn anything on/off, schedule on/off times (useful for refugium light), set a timer to turn back on (prevents forgetting to turn Skimmer back on after adding certain supplements), and allows easy labeling of each socket.

More specific control of specific hardware is provided through their respective apps on the phone. This includes apps for Kamoer pumps, Seneye and myAI for Hydra Lighting and Nero Pumps.

No maintenance during the week
I feed the tank myself to enjoy the fish, so I have not deployed an auto feeder.
Otherwise, the tank operates a full week+ with no interactions. I have a 5 gallon bucket behind the tank for the ATO. The filter sock usually makes it until weekend maintenance, the skimmer is also making it a full week. The Kamoer X1 is auto dosing Tropic Marin All-For-Reef, which has kept my Alk at a steady 8.5. The carbon and CO2 media both last over a month, so no issue there. I suppose the one other thing I do aside from feeding is rotate the Cheato occasionally.

Minimal precipitation (clean sump)
The tank previously ran on Kalk in the ATO water with 2-part dosing support as needed. While likely I never refined this process to perfection, it was a precipitation mess in the sump (white, crusty stuff all over). In time, the Kalk would build up on the pump and surfaces of the sump. It was very difficult to remove and did not look good. Tropin Marin has kept my parameters more stable and zero precipitation so far.

Basic tragedy prevention
While something like an Apex would offer even better awareness of the tank conditions, I have decent insight into trouble. Some of these would be useful even with an Apex.
  • Seneye: Warns me PH and Temp changes
  • InkBird: Audible alarm for Temp changes
  • Watchdog Leak Detector: I have 2 of these. One in the cabinet and another on the floor behind the tank. Audible alarm if water is detected.
  • Power Failure light: These plug into the same outlet as my power strip. If the power goes out, they product an audible alarm and flashing light. This is helpful if the power goes out while I am sleeping.
  • Double Eheim Heaters. Either can fail and the other can maintain the temp.
Additional Tips:
  • 3M Command Strip Broom hangers work great for hanging tools on the door. Easily removed later without leaving any marks.
  • I tried NFC tags on the door. Those are the white circles. You can program them easily with your phone to control things like the Kasa powerstrip. The idea was to label them and then I could just touch them with my phone and turn on/off the skimmer, return pump, etc... This can be made to work, but honestly I end up just asking Alexa to do the same thing anyways.
  • I added the Green Killing Machine UV system (very inexpensive) when my cloudy water phase hit during cycling (24/7). It cleared up in a day and has not returned.
  • I spray painted all the walls of my ATO (Refuguim) black with Krylon Fusion (recommended by community as reef safe). The goal here is to reduce any light spill from the Refugium LED and prevent unwanted growth in the sump.
  • Everything is attached to the walls of the sump with 3M command strips or Velco tape.
  • The return chamber (under refugium) is full of MarinePure balls to greatly increase surface for helpful bacteria.

Basic tank startup
Day 1
  • Added Rock structure and CaribSea Special Grade
  • Added Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt Rodi water
  • Let settle for a day

Day 2
  • Added FritzZyme Turbo Start (using fish for ammonia, no other startup additives used)
  • Added Seachem Prime (double dose, every other day, 1-2 weeks(until ammonia levels safe))
  • Same day, added 2 Clown fish (eating fine from day 1 with no signs of stress, quarantine tank ready if needed)
  • Monitoring Ammonia with Seneye
  • My PH is low in winter at about 7.8. This will naturally keep my toxic ammonia levels lower, but in case PH spiked for reasons and increased toxic ammonia, the Seachem Prime would prevent harm to the fish.
  • Kept lights on 3% just to add some shaping to the rock structure and make watching fish a bit more enjoyable
  • My ammonia levels were safe within a few days, I don't recall exactly
Week 1
  • Added Vibrant after first week, kept adding for first 8 weeks. (substituted Microbacter7 a couple times)

Week 3
  • Switched to full lighting schedule
  • Turned on Skimmer and Filter sock running (did not want either collecting the FritzZyme bacteria)
  • Added Clean up crew (fighting conch, 10 trochus, 2 blue leg hermits, 1 nassarius)

Week 4
  • Added UV system (cleared up cloudy water)
  • Added BRS Carbon to Reactor
  • Added anemones, GSP and rock flowers
  • Added Yellow Tang and spotted tail blenny

Week 5
  • Added CO2 Media to 2nd Reactor
  • Started dosing Tropic Marin AFR
  • Added 6 line Wasse

Week 6 - 14
  • Added random corals throughout
  • Disassembled, moved to garage for 4 weeks, then disassembled and rebuilt in main house. Most stressful thing ever. (HW floor refinishing)

Week 15
  • Turned on Refugium and added Cheato

Each week I did 5-10g. water changes (10-20%)
Feeding 1 Frozen Hikari cube each day (Mysis shrimp and Spirulina alternating), plus 2 small feedings of Hikari MarineS and Seaweed Extreme
I have not had an ugly phase yet. The rock and sand bed have remained clean throughout.

Thanks for reading. I'll look into a video for Youtube to walk through the system in more detail. Then I can more easily demonstrate the various tweaks I've made to using the system.

Thank you,
Tom
 
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Peace River

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Wow! Thanks for sharing! This looks like great info for a build thread (in the build thread section) where you can also journal how it goes from here - nice work!
 

vetteguy53081

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Well thought out - Well laid out !!
 

CMMorgan

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Hi folks,

I thought I would share my progress so far in case it helps others with planning or upgrading a tank.

Tank_Labeled.jpg
tank_34.jpg


My tank is going on 4 months now. It was built around a Red Sea Reefer 170 (Hydra 26HD Light) that I reset with all of my lessons learned.
You can read about my aquascape experience in this thread.

My goals,
  • Fewer wires and parts overall
  • Everything controllable by phone and Alexa
  • No maintenance during the week
  • Minimal precipitation (clean sump)
  • Basic tragedy prevention
Fewer wires and parts overall
I started by building custom plumbing. I did this for two main reasons
  • The manifold reduced the need for additional pumps to feed reactor and refugium, supporting the goal of fewer wires and parts.
  • I think it looks really good (we spend a lot of time in the sump, it should be nice)
The plumbing build would need its own post, but I was largely inspired by SithRico's Youtube video. I did modify it for my sump as seen in the images. I further did not attach the refugium to the hard plumbing (only the output pipe). Instead, I ran the pipe over the top and dropped a section of flexible Loc-Line with a flare nozzle into the refugium chamber for easier removal and less glass drilling.

Tip: Don't skimp on unions in your plumbing. Make sure you can remove any major section for maintenance and cleaning in the long run.

To further reduce visible wires, I run everything immediately out the hole in the back of the cabinet. I use velcro straps to hold wires together. On the back of the cabinet, the wires all connect to a pair of power strips I have attached to the back of the cabinet with velcro tape.

The Nero 3 Powerheads were picked both for their performance and the fact that they only have a small inline controller (I use the phone app to control them). This avoids the large controllers associated with most powerheads.

The Kamoer X1 Pro Dosing Pumps also help reduce wire clutter by supporting chaining on one wall plug. One pump plugs into the next and that one plugs into the wall. Again, both are controlled via a phone app.

Everything controllable by phone and Alexa
To enable phone and Alexa control of all components, I use a pair of Kasa Smart Wi-FI power strips, 6-outlet. These are really amazing. From your phone or using Alexa, you can turn anything on/off, schedule on/off times (useful for refugium light), set a timer to turn back on (prevents forgetting to turn Skimmer back on after adding certain supplements), and allows easy labeling of each socket.

More specific control of specific hardware is provided through their respective apps on the phone. This includes apps for Kamoer pumps, Seneye and myAI for Hydra Lighting and Nero Pumps.

No maintenance during the week
I feed the tank myself to enjoy the fish, so I have not deployed an auto feeder.
Otherwise, the tank operates a full week+ with no interactions. I have a 5 gallon bucket behind the tank for the ATO. The filter sock usually makes it until weekend maintenance, the skimmer is also making it a full week. The Kamoer X1 is auto dosing Tropic Marin All-For-Reef, which has kept my Alk at a steady 8.5. The carbon and CO2 media both last over a month, so no issue there. I suppose the one other thing I do aside from feeding is rotate the Cheato occasionally.

Minimal precipitation (clean sump)
The tank previously ran on Kalk in the ATO water with 2-part dosing support as needed. While likely I never refined this process to perfection, it was a precipitation mess in the sump (white, crusty stuff all over). In time, the Kalk would build up on the pump and surfaces of the sump. It was very difficult to remove and did not look good. Tropin Marin has kept my parameters more stable and zero precipitation so far.

Basic tragedy prevention
While something like an Apex would offer even better awareness of the tank conditions, I have decent insight into trouble. Some of these would be useful even with an Apex.
  • Seneye: Warns me PH and Temp changes
  • InkBird: Audible alarm for Temp changes
  • Watchdog Leak Detector: I have 2 of these. One in the cabinet and another on the floor behind the tank. Audible alarm if water is detected.
  • Power Failure light: These plug into the same outlet as my power strip. If the power goes out, they product an audible alarm and flashing light. This is helpful if the power goes out while I am sleeping.
  • Double Eheim Heaters. Either can fail and the other can maintain the temp.
Additional Tips:
  • 3M Command Strip Broom hangers work great for hanging tools on the door. Easily removed later without leaving any marks.
  • I tried NFC tags on the door. Those are the white circles. You can program them easily with your phone to control things like the Kasa powerstrip. The idea was to label them and then I could just touch them with my phone and turn on/off the skimmer, return pump, etc... This can be made to work, but honestly I end up just asking Alexa to do the same thing anyways.
  • I added the Green Killing Machine UV system (very inexpensive) when my cloudy water phase hit during cycling (24/7). It cleared up in a day and has not returned.
  • I spray painted all the walls of my ATO (Refuguim) black with Krylon Fusion (recommended by community as reef safe). The goal here is to reduce any light spill from the Refugium LED and prevent unwanted growth in the sump.
  • Everything is attached to the walls of the sump with 3M command strips or Velco tape.
  • The return chamber (under refugium) is full of MarinePure balls to greatly increase surface for helpful bacteria.

Basic tank startup
Day 1
  • Added Rock structure and CaribSea Special Grade
  • Added Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt Rodi water
  • Let settle for a day

Day 2
  • Added FritzZyme Turbo Start (using fish for ammonia, no other startup additives used)
  • Added Seachem Prime (double dose, every other day, 1-2 weeks(until ammonia levels safe))
  • Same day, added 2 Clown fish (eating fine from day 1 with no signs of stress, quarantine tank ready if needed)
  • Monitoring Ammonia with Seneye
  • My PH is low in winter at about 7.8. This will naturally keep my toxic ammonia levels lower, but in case PH spiked for reasons and increased toxic ammonia, the Seachem Prime would prevent harm to the fish.
  • Kept lights on 3% just to add some shaping to the rock structure and make watching fish a bit more enjoyable
  • My ammonia levels were safe within a few days, I don't recall exactly
Week 1
  • Added Vibrant after first week, kept adding for first 8 weeks. (substituted Microbacter7 a couple times)

Week 3
  • Switched to full lighting schedule
  • Turned on Skimmer and Filter sock running (did not want either collecting the FritzZyme bacteria)
  • Added Clean up crew (fighting conch, 10 trochus, 2 blue leg hermits, 1 nassarius)

Week 4
  • Added UV system (cleared up cloudy water)
  • Added BRS Carbon to Reactor
  • Added anemones, GSP and rock flowers
  • Added Yellow Tang and spotted tail blenny

Week 5
  • Added CO2 Media to 2nd Reactor
  • Started dosing Tropic Marin AFR
  • Added 6 line Wasse

Week 6 - 14
  • Added random corals throughout
  • Disassembled, moved to garage for 4 weeks, then disassembled and rebuilt in main house. Most stressful thing ever. (HW floor refinishing)

Week 15
  • Turned on Refugium and added Cheato

Each week I did 5-10g. water changes (10-20%)
Feeding 1 Frozen Hikari cube each day (Mysis shrimp and Spirulina alternating), plus 2 small feedings of Hikari MarineS and Seaweed Extreme
I have not had an ugly phase yet. The rock and sand bed have remained clean throughout.

Thanks for reading. I'll look into a video for Youtube to walk through the system in more detail. Then I can more easily demonstrate the various tweaks I've made to using the system.

Thank you,
Tom
Great read, Tom. Excellent detail! Thanks for putting this together. You did a nice, clean build here. Congrats!!
 

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I have been gathering everything for my newly acquired RSR170 (it was lightly used, got a dang good deal on it) and decided on x2 Nero 5's, x2 Kamoer WiFi's, Radion XR30 Blue w/ diffuser, gravity fed ATO, turn the factory ATO box into a refugium, 1/2 pound bag of carbon, ceramic beads for bacteria, and was going to plumb a manifold similar to yours but with soft tubing using the factory RSR170 pump.

So crazy that we both ended up with very similar setups, haha; but I'm still trying to decide on heaters, skimmer, and possible safety controllers.

How has that Bubble Magnus 5 been treating you? I was considering that one or a Reef Octo 110SSS or the Simplicity 260DC.

How well has the Seneye been working? Do you get any error's in PH vs a testing kit?
 
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Hardboiled

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Hi folks,

I thought I would share my progress so far in case it helps others with planning or upgrading a tank.

Tank_Labeled.jpg
tank_34.jpg


My tank is going on 4 months now. It was built around a Red Sea Reefer 170 (Hydra 26HD Light) that I reset with all of my lessons learned.
You can read about my aquascape experience in this thread.

My goals,
  • Fewer wires and parts overall
  • Everything controllable by phone and Alexa
  • No maintenance during the week
  • Minimal precipitation (clean sump)
  • Basic tragedy prevention
Fewer wires and parts overall
I started by building custom plumbing. I did this for two main reasons
  • The manifold reduced the need for additional pumps to feed reactor and refugium, supporting the goal of fewer wires and parts.
  • I think it looks really good (we spend a lot of time in the sump, it should be nice)
The plumbing build would need its own post, but I was largely inspired by SithRico's Youtube video. I did modify it for my sump as seen in the images. I further did not attach the refugium to the hard plumbing (only the output pipe). Instead, I ran the pipe over the top and dropped a section of flexible Loc-Line with a flare nozzle into the refugium chamber for easier removal and less glass drilling.

Tip: Don't skimp on unions in your plumbing. Make sure you can remove any major section for maintenance and cleaning in the long run.

To further reduce visible wires, I run everything immediately out the hole in the back of the cabinet. I use velcro straps to hold wires together. On the back of the cabinet, the wires all connect to a pair of power strips I have attached to the back of the cabinet with velcro tape.

The Nero 3 Powerheads were picked both for their performance and the fact that they only have a small inline controller (I use the phone app to control them). This avoids the large controllers associated with most powerheads.

The Kamoer X1 Pro Dosing Pumps also help reduce wire clutter by supporting chaining on one wall plug. One pump plugs into the next and that one plugs into the wall. Again, both are controlled via a phone app.

Everything controllable by phone and Alexa
To enable phone and Alexa control of all components, I use a pair of Kasa Smart Wi-FI power strips, 6-outlet. These are really amazing. From your phone or using Alexa, you can turn anything on/off, schedule on/off times (useful for refugium light), set a timer to turn back on (prevents forgetting to turn Skimmer back on after adding certain supplements), and allows easy labeling of each socket.

More specific control of specific hardware is provided through their respective apps on the phone. This includes apps for Kamoer pumps, Seneye and myAI for Hydra Lighting and Nero Pumps.

No maintenance during the week
I feed the tank myself to enjoy the fish, so I have not deployed an auto feeder.
Otherwise, the tank operates a full week+ with no interactions. I have a 5 gallon bucket behind the tank for the ATO. The filter sock usually makes it until weekend maintenance, the skimmer is also making it a full week. The Kamoer X1 is auto dosing Tropic Marin All-For-Reef, which has kept my Alk at a steady 8.5. The carbon and CO2 media both last over a month, so no issue there. I suppose the one other thing I do aside from feeding is rotate the Cheato occasionally.

Minimal precipitation (clean sump)
The tank previously ran on Kalk in the ATO water with 2-part dosing support as needed. While likely I never refined this process to perfection, it was a precipitation mess in the sump (white, crusty stuff all over). In time, the Kalk would build up on the pump and surfaces of the sump. It was very difficult to remove and did not look good. Tropin Marin has kept my parameters more stable and zero precipitation so far.

Basic tragedy prevention
While something like an Apex would offer even better awareness of the tank conditions, I have decent insight into trouble. Some of these would be useful even with an Apex.
  • Seneye: Warns me PH and Temp changes
  • InkBird: Audible alarm for Temp changes
  • Watchdog Leak Detector: I have 2 of these. One in the cabinet and another on the floor behind the tank. Audible alarm if water is detected.
  • Power Failure light: These plug into the same outlet as my power strip. If the power goes out, they product an audible alarm and flashing light. This is helpful if the power goes out while I am sleeping.
  • Double Eheim Heaters. Either can fail and the other can maintain the temp.
Additional Tips:
  • 3M Command Strip Broom hangers work great for hanging tools on the door. Easily removed later without leaving any marks.
  • I tried NFC tags on the door. Those are the white circles. You can program them easily with your phone to control things like the Kasa powerstrip. The idea was to label them and then I could just touch them with my phone and turn on/off the skimmer, return pump, etc... This can be made to work, but honestly I end up just asking Alexa to do the same thing anyways.
  • I added the Green Killing Machine UV system (very inexpensive) when my cloudy water phase hit during cycling (24/7). It cleared up in a day and has not returned.
  • I spray painted all the walls of my ATO (Refuguim) black with Krylon Fusion (recommended by community as reef safe). The goal here is to reduce any light spill from the Refugium LED and prevent unwanted growth in the sump.
  • Everything is attached to the walls of the sump with 3M command strips or Velco tape.
  • The return chamber (under refugium) is full of MarinePure balls to greatly increase surface for helpful bacteria.

Basic tank startup
Day 1
  • Added Rock structure and CaribSea Special Grade
  • Added Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt Rodi water
  • Let settle for a day

Day 2
  • Added FritzZyme Turbo Start (using fish for ammonia, no other startup additives used)
  • Added Seachem Prime (double dose, every other day, 1-2 weeks(until ammonia levels safe))
  • Same day, added 2 Clown fish (eating fine from day 1 with no signs of stress, quarantine tank ready if needed)
  • Monitoring Ammonia with Seneye
  • My PH is low in winter at about 7.8. This will naturally keep my toxic ammonia levels lower, but in case PH spiked for reasons and increased toxic ammonia, the Seachem Prime would prevent harm to the fish.
  • Kept lights on 3% just to add some shaping to the rock structure and make watching fish a bit more enjoyable
  • My ammonia levels were safe within a few days, I don't recall exactly
Week 1
  • Added Vibrant after first week, kept adding for first 8 weeks. (substituted Microbacter7 a couple times)

Week 3
  • Switched to full lighting schedule
  • Turned on Skimmer and Filter sock running (did not want either collecting the FritzZyme bacteria)
  • Added Clean up crew (fighting conch, 10 trochus, 2 blue leg hermits, 1 nassarius)

Week 4
  • Added UV system (cleared up cloudy water)
  • Added BRS Carbon to Reactor
  • Added anemones, GSP and rock flowers
  • Added Yellow Tang and spotted tail blenny

Week 5
  • Added CO2 Media to 2nd Reactor
  • Started dosing Tropic Marin AFR
  • Added 6 line Wasse

Week 6 - 14
  • Added random corals throughout
  • Disassembled, moved to garage for 4 weeks, then disassembled and rebuilt in main house. Most stressful thing ever. (HW floor refinishing)

Week 15
  • Turned on Refugium and added Cheato

Each week I did 5-10g. water changes (10-20%)
Feeding 1 Frozen Hikari cube each day (Mysis shrimp and Spirulina alternating), plus 2 small feedings of Hikari MarineS and Seaweed Extreme
I have not had an ugly phase yet. The rock and sand bed have remained clean throughout.

Thanks for reading. I'll look into a video for Youtube to walk through the system in more detail. Then I can more easily demonstrate the various tweaks I've made to using the system.

Thank you,
Tom
I just realized I never linked my Youtube video walkthrough based on this post. You can watch that here,

I will try to get an update video made soon, but generally speaking, everything is running great with no modifications.
 
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Hardboiled

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I have been gathering everything for my newly acquired RSR170 (it was lightly used, got a dang good deal on it) and decided on x2 Nero 5's, x2 Kamoer WiFi's, Radion XR30 Blue w/ diffuser, gravity fed ATO, turn the factory ATO box into a refugium, 1/2 pound bag of carbon, ceramic beads for bacteria, and was going to plumb a manifold similar to yours but with soft tubing using the factory RSR170 pump.

So crazy that we both ended up with very similar setups, haha; but I'm still trying to decide on heaters, skimmer, and possible safety controllers.

How has that Bubble Magnus 5 been treating you? I was considering that one or a Reef Octo 110SSS or the Simplicity 260DC.

How well has the Seneye been working? Do you get any error's in PH vs a testing kit?
The Bubble Magnus 5 has been rock solid for years. I used it in a previous 170 as well and it's still going strong. There is no controller for the pump of course, so something to consider if you want to have that control.

The Seneye provided a lot of confidence early when I was monitor ammonia and PH more closely. At this point though, I stopped replacing the test slide and just use it as an early warning system if my temperature fails me. Though I like that I can turn it back on so to speak as needed. The one time I tested PH with a kit, it was roughly the same as the Seneye. But I did not monitor that over time. If nothing else, you can see how the Seneye's reading holds up over time relative to themselves, even if they are not spot on. ex. my PH is dropping.

This is an older post, so I hope that build turned out great.

Thanks
Tom
 
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Hardboiled

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Hi folks,

I posted an update on the tank for anyone interested in how this particular set up as worked out over the course of a couple years.



Thank you
 

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