Reefers' Rules: An Old School Perspective

ReefGeezer

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REEFERS’ RULES
According to @ReefGeezer

I found this information on an old CD that I was getting ready to discard. Yep… I still have one computer with a CD- ROM! The file creation date was in May of 2004. I thought the information might be useful and decided to dust it off and share it. I did update the rules a little. I’ve learned a few things in the last 18 years!

REEFER’S RULE #1: Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank… Ever!
No need to change this one. I didn’t make it up. This is an old, and still ever so true, rule. Patience is an absolute requirement for establishing and maintaining a healthy reef tank. You will be waiting for something to happen from day one. You will also be tempted, and even prompted by others, to do things to make it happen faster. You must have confidence that what you are waiting for will happen, and have the patience to wait.

REEFER’S RULE #2: Change is bad… Even when it is good!
Making changes to an established system may set it back no matter how beneficial the change may be. Stability is the key to maintaining a sustainable and amazing reef. That stability extends to every part of the environment, measurable or not.

REEFER’S RULE #3: The KISS Rule applies… Sort of.
The requirements for keeping a reef tank are just not that simple, particularly if you want it to flourish in the long term. The goal is to keep the system as simple as possible without impacting its ability to meet its requirements. Simple means employing the right equipment to make performance of your maintenance and husbandry tasks simple and easy.

REEFER’S RULE #4: Systems must be planned for the long run.
Any system can work for a while. However, reef tanks take a long time to establish, corals grow slowly, and they aren’t truly impressive until they grow into larger colonies. “A while” is just not long enough. Well designed and operating systems are required to optimize the growth, color, and overall health of the reef and its inhabitants.

REEFER’S RULE #5: If you buy cheap, you will buy twice.
This is another old rule and it applies to many things, but is particularly applicable here. Even the simplest reef tanks require some equipment. I don’t know how many times I bought “inexpensive” equipment only to find it did not do the job or failed too quickly. That money was wasted. I had to pony up more cash to replace the substandard equipment. Remember, if you plan on keeping your reef long enough to see the fruits of your labor, the equipment will have to operate effectively for long periods of time without fail.

REEFER’S RULE #6: If maintenance is difficult, it will not get done often enough.
Place components that require frequent maintenance within easy reach and provide for isolation of the components requiring removal for maintenance. Planning your maintenance tasks should be a high priority when planning your system.

REEFER’S RULE #7: Chemical products advertised to solve problems simply don’t work.
I ADDED THIS ONE. I learned this one the hard way over the last 18 years. This is where I wasted a lot of money and caused myself lots of problems. I was pretty lucky though. I dodged the tank crashes that many of these products have caused. Unfortunately, these products either: 1) Do not work, 2) Solve one problem but affect a nutrient pathway that causes other problems; or 3) Simply cover up the symptoms until the actual problem gets bad enough to cause something worse to happen.

A Few More Important Things to Know
In addition to some minor changes in the rules above, I added a couple of things that my experiences since 2004 have taught me. I won’t call them rules. I prefer to think of them as an “Important Thing to Know” before planning your reef tank.

Establishing a nitrogen cycle in a reef tank is simple using old school methods.
Yep… Old school… Add an ammonia source like household ammonia, ammonium chloride, raw shrimp, or a hearty fish… maybe some bottled bacteria… and wait… and test… and wait. The ammonia rises, and then drops to zero, and voilà… cycled. The tank will support the reasonable stocking of fish and other organisms without an ammonia spike. Some will say to wait further until nitrite drops to zero. It is ok if you want to wait, and it maybe desirable if you plan on adding more sensitive specimens right away. However, nitrite really is not absolutely necessary as nitrite is not toxic at the higher pH of salt water. It is really just that simple. Many entities are making the process way more complicated these days in order to profit, help you rationalize violating Rule #1, and/or to gain recognition. It could also be because they just don’t understand. The old school cycling methods might not be the best way to create an environment where ammonia, and other nutrients, are properly managed. There is a holistic approach that
not only manages all the forms of nitrogen (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), but also phosphate and dissolved organic compounds as well.

Old school cycling processes work, but have a down side.
The organisms we want to grow that reduces the ammonia we have added do so slowly. While these organisms are low, other organisms can take advantage of the elevated ammonia levels to get a foothold in out tank. These unwanted organisms do great when the competition is low and the nitrogen level is high. Unfortunately, the old school method creates an environment where these unwanted organisms can get a head start in the competition and sets up a battle that can last a very long time. There may be a better way. If we stock the tank in a strategic manner with nutrient producers and users and provide just enough input, we can stock the tank and establish nutrient pathways without ever raising the levels quickly enough or high enough for those unwanted organisms to get a foothold. To do this, you will need to understand the next “Important Thing to Know”.

You must understand how food and nutrients, in all of forms, are used in the reef tank.
It took me a very, very long time to come to this realization. I guess I’m a little slow sometimes. It is so much more complicated than just understanding of the basic nitrogen cycle or monitoring and controlling the inorganic nutrients. It is about how food input is used and processed in interrelated pathways and food webs. Developing an understanding of the diversity required to complete the pathways, the inputs required to maintain them, and how limiting a pathway affects the others will help you reach your reefing goals. It will also reduce the difficulty of decision making and save you a lot of money where nutrient control is concerned.

The header image is of the author's tank in 2020.
 
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MnFish1

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This is a great synopsis. Nice Article - There is so much actual great information here - it should almost be posted on the front page of the site!! I'm going to take an issue with :
REEFER’S RULE #1: Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank… Ever!

Firstly - the older saying 'Never say never' seems to play a role here Thus - Rule #1 is probably not 'true'. . Somethings in reef tanks can happen 'fast' (of course there is no definition of 'fast'). But - on this site there seems to be a kind of pride with sayings like "I have been planning my build for 3 years, I finally bought the equipment, I will probably start cycling in a month, add rock and then 6 months later will add a CUC and maybe a clownfish a year later'. Of course this is a parody. But - IMHO - #1 is a much overused and misunderstood saying.

That said - The person that says 'I added 2 blue tangs, 3 chromis, 3 clowns and 2 BTA anemones to a 30 gallon tank thats a week old' is going to have a problem. BUT _ IMHO - many of the 'old-time' rules about cycling, timing, etc - have been markedly changed by new technology.

THAT SAID - IMHO - the key point is - don't make any changes quickly. I.e. my alkalinity is 10 - I want it to be 7 - I'll change it in a day.

With this minor criticism - the rest of your article is SPOT ON - and literally should be a pinned post somewhere. :). Thanks for taking the time to write it
 

Miami Reef

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I'm going to take an issue with :
REEFER’S RULE #1: Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank… Ever!

Firstly - the older saying 'Never say never' seems to play a role here Thus - Rule #1 is probably not 'true'. . Somethings in reef tanks can happen 'fast' (of course there is no definition of 'fast'). But - on this site there seems to be a kind of pride with sayings like "I have been planning my build for 3 years, I finally bought the equipment, I will probably start cycling in a month, add rock and then 6 months later will add a CUC and maybe a clownfish a year later'. Of course this is a parody. But - IMHO - #1 is a much overused and misunderstood saying.
YES, YES, YEEES!

I dislike black and white answers, especially “NOTHING good happens fast in a reef tank”. It’s so unhelpful and not an accurate statement. What’s even the point of that advice? What constitutes as fast?

If a fish is in a tank with ammonia, should one not add bottled bacteria to decrease the ammonia? That is a certainly fast solution. Or should you be slow and just let the fish suffocate?

Sometimes we need to act quick. Saying “never do things fast” is not helpful IMO.
 

Rmckoy

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reefgeezerrules-jpeg.2806573


REEFERS’ RULES
According to @ReefGeezer

I found this information on an old CD that I was getting ready to discard. Yep… I still have one computer with a CD- ROM! The file creation date was in May of 2004. I thought the information might be useful and decided to dust it off and share it. I did update the rules a little. I’ve learned a few things in the last 18 years!

REEFER’S RULE #1: Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank… Ever!
No need to change this one. I didn’t make it up. This is an old, and still ever so true, rule. Patience is an absolute requirement for establishing and maintaining a healthy reef tank. You will be waiting for something to happen from day one. You will also be tempted, and even prompted by others, to do things to make it happen faster. You must have confidence that what you are waiting for will happen, and have the patience to wait.

REEFER’S RULE #2: Change is bad… Even when it is good!
Making changes to an established system may set it back no matter how beneficial the change may be. Stability is the key to maintaining a sustainable and amazing reef. That stability extends to every part of the environment, measurable or not.

REEFER’S RULE #3: The KISS Rule applies… Sort of.
The requirements for keeping a reef tank are just not that simple, particularly if you want it to flourish in the long term. The goal is to keep the system as simple as possible without impacting its ability to meet its requirements. Simple means employing the right equipment to make performance of your maintenance and husbandry tasks simple and easy.

REEFER’S RULE #4: Systems must be planned for the long run.
Any system can work for a while. However, reef tanks take a long time to establish, corals grow slowly, and they aren’t truly impressive until they grow into larger colonies. “A while” is just not long enough. Well designed and operating systems are required to optimize the growth, color, and overall health of the reef and its inhabitants.

REEFER’S RULE #5: If you buy cheap, you will buy twice.
This is another old rule and it applies to many things, but is particularly applicable here. Even the simplest reef tanks require some equipment. I don’t know how many times I bought “inexpensive” equipment only to find it did not do the job or failed too quickly. That money was wasted. I had to pony up more cash to replace the substandard equipment. Remember, if you plan on keeping your reef long enough to see the fruits of your labor, the equipment will have to operate effectively for long periods of time without fail.

REEFER’S RULE #6: If maintenance is difficult, it will not get done often enough.
Place components that require frequent maintenance within easy reach and provide for isolation of the components requiring removal for maintenance. Planning your maintenance tasks should be a high priority when planning your system.

REEFER’S RULE #7: Chemical products advertised to solve problems simply don’t work.
I ADDED THIS ONE. I learned this one the hard way over the last 18 years. This is where I wasted a lot of money and caused myself lots of problems. I was pretty lucky though. I dodged the tank crashes that many of these products have caused. Unfortunately, these products either: 1) Do not work, 2) Solve one problem but affect a nutrient pathway that causes other problems; or 3) Simply cover up the symptoms until the actual problem gets bad enough to cause something worse to happen.

A Few More Important Things to Know
In addition to some minor changes in the rules above, I added a couple of things that my experiences since 2004 have taught me. I won’t call them rules. I prefer to think of them as an “Important Thing to Know” before planning your reef tank.

Establishing a nitrogen cycle in a reef tank is simple using old school methods.
Yep… Old school… Add an ammonia source like household ammonia, ammonium chloride, raw shrimp, or a hearty fish… maybe some bottled bacteria… and wait… and test… and wait. The ammonia rises, and then drops to zero, and voilà… cycled. The tank will support the reasonable stocking of fish and other organisms without an ammonia spike. Some will say to wait further until nitrite drops to zero. It is ok if you want to wait, and it maybe desirable if you plan on adding more sensitive specimens right away. However, nitrite really is not absolutely necessary as nitrite is not toxic at the higher pH of salt water. It is really just that simple. Many entities are making the process way more complicated these days in order to profit, help you rationalize violating Rule #1, and/or to gain recognition. It could also be because they just don’t understand. The old school cycling methods might not be the best way to create an environment where ammonia, and other nutrients, are properly managed. There is a holistic approach that
not only manages all the forms of nitrogen (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate), but also phosphate and dissolved organic compounds as well.

Old school cycling processes work, but have a down side.
The organisms we want to grow that reduces the ammonia we have added do so slowly. While these organisms are low, other organisms can take advantage of the elevated ammonia levels to get a foothold in out tank. These unwanted organisms do great when the competition is low and the nitrogen level is high. Unfortunately, the old school method creates an environment where these unwanted organisms can get a head start in the competition and sets up a battle that can last a very long time. There may be a better way. If we stock the tank in a strategic manner with nutrient producers and users and provide just enough input, we can stock the tank and establish nutrient pathways without ever raising the levels quickly enough or high enough for those unwanted organisms to get a foothold. To do this, you will need to understand the next “Important Thing to Know”.

You must understand how food and nutrients, in all of forms, are used in the reef tank.
It took me a very, very long time to come to this realization. I guess I’m a little slow sometimes. It is so much more complicated than just understanding of the basic nitrogen cycle or monitoring and controlling the inorganic nutrients. It is about how food input is used and processed in interrelated pathways and food webs. Developing an understanding of the diversity required to complete the pathways, the inputs required to maintain them, and how limiting a pathway affects the others will help you reach your reefing goals. It will also reduce the difficulty of decision making and save you a lot of money where nutrient control is concerned.

The header image is of the author's tank in 2020.
I don’t necessarily agree with rule #5 100% but it has tons of truth .
I’ve heard of even something such as a
Mp-40 burning out

I need to confess . I still have the same wp-40 and rw-15 I bought from fish street ( jeabo ) years ago .
although I’ve switched to the cross flow pumps . The others still
Work .
The trick is : never clean them with vinegar !
that being said . I’d rather spend $100 2-3 times compared to spending $500 in one shot .

all the savings can go directly towards corals and fish.
 

Daniel@R2R

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Great article!
 

ReefGeezer

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Firstly - the older saying 'Never say never' seems to play a role here Thus - Rule #1 is probably not 'true'. . Somethings in reef tanks can happen 'fast' (of course there is no definition of 'fast')...
...I dislike black and white answers, especially “NOTHING good happens fast in a reef tank”. It’s so unhelpful and not an accurate statement. What’s even the point of that advice? What constitutes as fast?

If a fish is in a tank with ammonia, should one not add bottled bacteria to decrease the ammonia? That is a certainly fast solution. Or should you be slow and just let the fish suffocate?

Sometimes we need to act quick. Saying “never do things fast” is not helpful IMO.

Sorry for the hyperbole. The rule has been around reefing forever. I added "... ever!" to be cute. I never thought the The "Rule" directed us to act slowly though. I always thought it simply encourages us to to be patient and try not to expect or make changes too quickly.
 

mfinn

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Pretty good.
These are guidelines that I was taught in the early 80's and IMO still apply today.
I'm sure someone can/will nitpick all of them, but these are simply guides to help approach being successful in the hobby.
 

Nano sapiens

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Pretty good.
These are guidelines that I was taught in the early 80's and IMO still apply today.
I'm sure someone can/will nitpick all of them, but these are simply guides to help approach being successful in the hobby.

Spot on. As is often quoted 'There are exceptions to every rule' and that certainly applies to reef keeping as well. So strictly speaking, perhaps we should call 'Rules' 'Guidlines' instead that were developed by the dedicated and persistent pioneers in this hobby when the scientific community was still proclaiming that stony coral could not be kept long term in captivity.
 
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ReefGeezer

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I don’t necessarily agree with rule #5 100% but it has tons of truth .
I’ve heard of even something such as a
Mp-40 burning out

I need to confess . I still have the same wp-40 and rw-15 I bought from fish street ( jeabo ) years ago .
although I’ve switched to the cross flow pumps . The others still
Work .
The trick is : never clean them with vinegar !
that being said . I’d rather spend $100 2-3 times compared to spending $500 in one shot .

all the savings can go directly towards corals and fish.
I had RW-15's in my 75 a long time ago. Admittedly a decent value. They were fine until they weren't... yes, vinegar killed them. I replaced them with used MP-40's. I think I gave $400 for both. That was about 5 years ago. They are both still working. I had Chinese LED lighting for a while also. Seemed good until I checked the PAR after about a year. Sucked! I bought a used 8X 54w ATI Sunpower fixture for $500 w/ good bulbs. It has been running for about over 3 years with just bulb replacements & have have PARto spare. I guess the "Cheap" in the rule refers to quality rather than actual price. But... I did buy twice each time.
 

Rmckoy

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I had RW-15's in my 75 a long time ago. Admittedly a decent value. They were fine until they weren't... yes, vinegar killed them. I replaced them with used MP-40's. I think I gave $400 for both. That was about 5 years ago. They are both still working. I had Chinese LED lighting for a while also. Seemed good until I checked the PAR after about a year. Sucked! I bought a used 8X 54w ATI Sunpower fixture for $500 w/ good bulbs. It has been running for about over 3 years with just bulb replacements & have have PARto spare. I guess the "Cheap" in the rule refers to quality rather than actual price. But... I did buy twice each time.
I wouldn’t know about leds .
I have 3 Chinese black boxes that have never been used. .
I can’t seam to justify changing from the 8 54watt t5’s
Even over my 230 I believe I still have par to spare
 

ReefGeezer

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I wouldn’t know about leds .
I have 3 Chinese black boxes that have never been used. .
I can’t seam to justify changing from the 8 54watt t5’s
Even over my 230 I believe I still have par to spare
Yep... I've never ran mine at 100% on my 90. Over a 12 hour cycle, mine ramp to 70% and immediately start ramping down. Best money I've ever spent. Was even worth the 5 hour drive each way to pick it up. Sucks to buy bulbs, but that's the price of excessive PAR over the entire tank with no shadows.
 

randalli

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I would add a Rule 1.5 as follows: If good happens fast then be on the guard

I had this last year when I was on vacation and my corals just started to grow as fast as never before. Reason was that tank temp was pretty high and the coral had a surge in growth and depleted all important elements by doing so. Two weeks later most of my coral started to die. Right move here would have been: When my tank sitter sent me "control pictures" I should have acted and let her do NO3/PO4 tests and replenish those elements. Yeah I f*cked up badly but learned my lesson that even if good happens fast a culprit might just be around the corner.
 

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I would add a Rule 1.5 as follows: If good happens fast then be on the guard

I had this last year when I was on vacation and my corals just started to grow as fast as never before. Reason was that tank temp was pretty high and the coral had a surge in growth and depleted all important elements by doing so. Two weeks later most of my coral started to die. Right move here would have been: When my tank sitter sent me "control pictures" I should have acted and let her do NO3/PO4 tests and replenish those elements. Yeah I f*cked up badly but learned my lesson that even if good happens fast a culprit might just be around the corner.

Painful lesson for sure, but it's part of the learning process that even the most experienced reefers have gone through.
 

Rmckoy

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Yep... I've never ran mine at 100% on my 90. Over a 12 hour cycle, mine ramp to 70% and immediately start ramping down. Best money I've ever spent. Was even worth the 5 hour drive each way to pick it up. Sucks to buy bulbs, but that's the price of excessive PAR over the entire tank with no shadows.
Mine is a old fixture I picked up . Changed the ballasts and put new bulbs .
The only thing I’ve done is replace the ballasts 2x and replace bulbs .
I don’t have a ramp up option . It’s on or off .
I can put times on each ballast if I wanted to turn on 4 bulbs at a time .
 

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