As the title says what would you use. I had a refugium and all the chateo up and died now phosphate is going up and I got this gross brown hair algae. So I was thinking of getting a brs mini reactor and running GFO for phosphate control what you all think?
Refugium or GFO
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rapid
Well-Known Member
i like the idea of the refugium i just cannot to save my life grow any macros. I can sure grow some GHA tho !
I use the GFO method to keep my phosphate level steady atm. eventually i will use it to lower the Phosphate.
GFO is atleast a sure method that will not die on you but is the more expensive route !
I use the GFO method to keep my phosphate level steady atm. eventually i will use it to lower the Phosphate.
GFO is atleast a sure method that will not die on you but is the more expensive route !
The problem with most "refugiums" is that they are vastly undersized and so unable to effectively do the job expected of them.
When I needed a method of nutrient control for my 150g predator tank (4' Gymnothorax Undulatus) I chose to go the refugium route and it worked very well. Nitrates went from untestable out of range high after a 100g water change to nearly undetectable with 6 weeks between water changes, so I know that they can, indeed, work very well.
I used a spare 120g tank with 6-8" of sugar fine sand (~400lb) as my refugium. Very slow flow-through to allow plenty of contact time. I also had a forest of kenya trees and fields of texas trash (green) palythoas.
It was amazing what a change the DT went through.
I now use GFO in a reactor as needed for my 120 sps dominate DT. (the eel passed after 25 years and I sold that tank off) I just don't have the space needed for a refugium that would actually do anything but create problems for me.
When I needed a method of nutrient control for my 150g predator tank (4' Gymnothorax Undulatus) I chose to go the refugium route and it worked very well. Nitrates went from untestable out of range high after a 100g water change to nearly undetectable with 6 weeks between water changes, so I know that they can, indeed, work very well.
I used a spare 120g tank with 6-8" of sugar fine sand (~400lb) as my refugium. Very slow flow-through to allow plenty of contact time. I also had a forest of kenya trees and fields of texas trash (green) palythoas.
It was amazing what a change the DT went through.
I now use GFO in a reactor as needed for my 120 sps dominate DT. (the eel passed after 25 years and I sold that tank off) I just don't have the space needed for a refugium that would actually do anything but create problems for me.
fish farmer
2500 Club Member
What are your nitrate and phosphate levels? Also size of tank/refuge space and light used?
I'm just wondering why your chaeto died, either not enough nutrients, or not strong enough light. Did the chaeto ever grow?
Ok I'm using a kessil h80 for my lights
Tank is 75 gal with approx 15 gal of sump water
Refugium is approx 13in x 5in
Nitrate undetectable (Api)
Phosphate 0.24 (Hanna) holy crap way too high
Ph 8.2 (api)
Tank is 75 gal with approx 15 gal of sump water
Refugium is approx 13in x 5in
Nitrate undetectable (Api)
Phosphate 0.24 (Hanna) holy crap way too high
Ph 8.2 (api)
muggle reefer
Community Member
How about some more details, I am in same boat as OP, for now I have decided on GFO, my tank is similar size to op, probably similar sump, I am running waterbox 100.3. So on the converse, how big of a refugium do you need for a 70 ish gallon display and a 85 to 90 gallon system? Can you simply simple add a baffle about in the middle of my waterbox sump?
I am starting for sure with GFO, although not implemented yet but might switch to a refugium as my tank gets more established.
I am starting for sure with GFO, although not implemented yet but might switch to a refugium as my tank gets more established.
fish farmer
2500 Club Member
You may not have enough nutrients to keep the chaeto growing. I had nitrates at 40ppm and phos at 1ppm when I started growing it.
GSnake
Well-Known Member
chaeto refugium is great and has always worked for me, you need to make sure you get the right lighting.. that special red magenta for plant growing does the trick . it keeps my nutrients in check no problem, <5 ppm nitrates <.1 ppl phos. after using biopellets too, i was at undetectable nitrate and .02 phos.
italquam
Valuable Member
I highly recommend using a algae scrubber , I personally use Turbos algae scrubber and it works excellent . You will grow algae like a champ using it and see your display tank be algae free
Reef and Dive
Valuable Member
Your nitrate : phosphate are not in equilibrium.
My opinion is to go for GFO.
A refugium or carbon dosing would require quite a bit of nitrate to fuel the methods.
Heart of Dixie
Active Member
If you are fighting Dino’s try maintaining no3 between 5 & 10 and P04 around .03 - .04, they will go away. I have a 150 gal tank and a 20 gal refugium with rubble and chaeto. The lights are 2 Home Depot $ 9.95 clamp ons with 5 k spots mounted 2” above the surface.The chaeto grows very well with this setup. N03 is 2.5 to 5, p04 .015 to .04
Dkmoo
Valuable Member
For a successful refugium there are 3 key things that you should understand (and most failures is almost always due to not properly addressing one of the below:
1) its not just about the light for the fuge - need to think about what lights are in your dt too. Whether you run 24hr fuge, or off cycle, the fuge like need to be at least output a similar par as ur dt so that the chaeto in your fuge can effectively compete with the algae growing in your dt. If you have some fancy dt lighting. The A80 may not be enough as i think depending on now far you put it, ur chaeto only receives like 100PAR. Consider getting the h380,
2) not enough chaeto - it needs to have a critical mass to effectively outcomplwte the algae growing in your DT, otherwise it will just starve and die.
3) too strong light - can see this when the middle of your chaeto ball directly under the light starting to melt.
Think of it like a tug-of-war analogy - to win you need to either add more people on your side, or shoot them up with steroids to make them stronger, but of you shoot too much they will OD and die.
1) its not just about the light for the fuge - need to think about what lights are in your dt too. Whether you run 24hr fuge, or off cycle, the fuge like need to be at least output a similar par as ur dt so that the chaeto in your fuge can effectively compete with the algae growing in your dt. If you have some fancy dt lighting. The A80 may not be enough as i think depending on now far you put it, ur chaeto only receives like 100PAR. Consider getting the h380,
2) not enough chaeto - it needs to have a critical mass to effectively outcomplwte the algae growing in your DT, otherwise it will just starve and die.
3) too strong light - can see this when the middle of your chaeto ball directly under the light starting to melt.
Think of it like a tug-of-war analogy - to win you need to either add more people on your side, or shoot them up with steroids to make them stronger, but of you shoot too much they will OD and die.
My refugium (approx 5 gallons) serving my waterbox 130.4 depleted my nutrients to the point that I grew dinos.
almost regretting the refugium now.
but I’ll dial it in once the dinos are gone and my nutrients are higher and I’m sure I’ll be happy with the biodiversity it serves. There’s most definitely a learning curve.
almost regretting the refugium now.
but I’ll dial it in once the dinos are gone and my nutrients are higher and I’m sure I’ll be happy with the biodiversity it serves. There’s most definitely a learning curve.
My cheato melted phosphate hit .76 then it melted I had the h80 set to grow and still melted. While it was still there it was almost to effective and couldn't get any nutrients. I was running it reverse my dt light. Then when it died I got this brown snot stuff was hoping it was cyano but after 2 rounds of chemi clean it did nothing. So I just pulled the light and wrapped the tank in black plastic and dosing 8ml of hydrogen peroxide gonna do this for 3 days fingers crossed
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