Removing cheap bio media

PeterEde

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So when I first started I bought these cheap bio media blocks. I was since told they were for freshwater?
So I bought 4 of the new bio bricks and have started removing the old ones. My no3 went up .3ppm
I expected a higher increase than .3.
Does that mean my new blocks can handle my tank?

I am removing a few blocks a day and testing.

received_363931228968885.jpeg
 

blaxsun

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I couldn't even guess without knowing the old/new brands. But it does take bacteria a little while to populate the new media, so you may see a gradual uptick followed by a gradual decline as you phase-out all the old media.
 

damsels are not mean

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I don't see how bio media can be "for freshwater" unless it dissolves in saltwater. It's just an object with a lot of surface area. Surface area is surface area no matter what kind of water it's in. I don't think there's any point in switching but since you've made the choice I also doubt it matters how you do it. Likely there is enough ammonia consumers in the system with or without the bricks at this point.
 

theMeat

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Agree, don’t get the freshwater thing, but if you want to change it do 1/4 every week or two
 

nat1881

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So when I first started I bought these cheap bio media blocks. I was since told they were for freshwater?
So I bought 4 of the new bio bricks and have started removing the old ones. My no3 went up .3ppm
I expected a higher increase than .3.
Does that mean my new blocks can handle my tank?

I am removing a few blocks a day and testing.

received_363931228968885.jpeg
 

nat1881

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If they have been in the system for long periods of time why bother to remove them, how do you know they are effective to nitrate.
 
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PeterEde

PeterEde

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If they have been in the system for long periods of time why bother to remove them, how do you know they are effective to nitrate.
these bricks are detritus collectors and break down over time.
If the new genesis and mantis bricks do the same it give me back room in the sump section.
 

trevorhiller

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I agree with the others that is probably fine and likely unnecessary to remove or even have any unless you have no rock or sand. Don't get me wrong, I've got some in my sump too just because I wanted to make a spot for copepods to refuge and the off chance I need to quickly start a second tank.

Edit to add: I'd love to see someone do an experiment and see if there is any value in these items at all.
 
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PeterEde

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I agree with the others that is probably fine and likely unnecessary to remove or even have any unless you have no rock or sand. Don't get me wrong, I've got some in my sump too just because I wanted to make a spot for copepods to refuge and the off chance I need to quickly start a second tank.

Edit to add: I'd love to see someone do an experiment and see if there is any value in these items at all.
I believe if you calculate the required amount of LR you probably don't need this media at all.
I had up to 60ppm NO3 for quite a while. I have in the last few months converted my 1section to a refugium.
Now due in part to the new blocks or the refugium or both my NO3 is now at 22 +_

I am removing the blocks to free up space. I wont remove it all but see no reason to keep it all either if removing is not making a difference to my NO3
 

Jay'sReefBugs

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You probably have enough rock and substrate in your display to handle the load . I would try searching for a local reef group and see if anyone wants the media . People use it for start up tanks and Qt
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So when I first started I bought these cheap bio media blocks. I was since told they were for freshwater?
So I bought 4 of the new bio bricks and have started removing the old ones. My no3 went up .3ppm
I expected a higher increase than .3.
Does that mean my new blocks can handle my tank?

I am removing a few blocks a day and testing.

received_363931228968885.jpeg

What is the nitrate level?

What nitrate measuring device are you using that accurately measured a 0.3 ppm rise?

If it were me I might remove it and not replace it just because I would not be convinced it is needed.
 
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PeterEde

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What is the nitrate level?

What nitrate measuring device are you using that accurately measured a 0.3 ppm rise?

If it were me I might remove it and not replace it just because I would not be convinced it is needed.
Hanna HR
Measured yesterday prior to removal then today 24hrs after. Difference was .3

Currently 23.1 down from 40 plus (off scale o redsea no3 test)
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Hanna HR
Measured yesterday prior to removal then today 24hrs after. Difference was .3

Currently 23.1 down from 40 plus (off scale o redsea no3 test)

the Hanna high range nitrate checker has an uncertainty of +/- 2 ppm (by Hanna's claim), so the 0.3 ppm may not be real. In any case, real or not it is super small.
 
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PeterEde

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the Hanna high range nitrate checker has an uncertainty of +/- 2 ppm (by Hanna's claim), so the 0.3 ppm may not be real. In any case, real or not it is super small.
You would think for the cost it would be more accurate but I guess it's only a colormetric reader?
 

homer1475

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The thing people sometimes don't understand with the hanna meters....

The only interpret the color! They are no different then any of the other color comparison test kits. They just remove the human eye from the equation.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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The thing people sometimes don't understand with the hanna meters....

The only interpret the color! They are no different then any of the other color comparison test kits. They just remove the human eye from the equation.

It’s the beginning is the rise of the machines. Next step, skynet!
 

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