Researching Fish...

NC122606

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So I have got some fish in mind I really like and will be posting what I learn about these fish every day and hopefully, you can learn something new from this or you can tell me something I missed or something you knew that I did not. I will be researching the following fish...
Regal Angelfish
Flame Angelfish
Potters Angelfish
Blue Hippo / Yellow Belly Hippo
Purple Tang
Achilles Tang
White Tail Bristletooth Tang
Leopard Wrasse
Starry Blenny
Harlequin Tusk
One Spot Foxface
Copperbanded
Flame Hawkfish
Green Mandarin
Banggai Cardinalfish
Orange Blood Clownfish
Marine Betta
Zebra Moray

Hopefully, this is fun! Suggestions on which to start with?
 

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Achilles tang for sure be interesting, always wanted to try one but definitely after some research and hearing people’s experience .. I will hold off on it for a while
 
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Banggai Cardinalfish

Tank Conditions:

The Minimum Tank size should be at least 30 Gallons but I think a 10 *Could* work.
74 - 82 Degrees F / PH should be 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 5+ Years / Cost: $13 - $30 / They get about 3 inches

Behavior:
They seem just float in place making quick dart-like movements. They are also reef safe and do not eat inverts but are aggressive towards their own kind not towards others though, when the pairing does not work or one is left out of pairing they will flare their fins before attacking, but since there is nowhere to run they are forced to fight. This is why they are usually best kept in a bonded pair or solo.

Tankmates:
Banggai Cardinalfish is good with a lot of fish but of course, there are some fish that will not take them. Some fish that are not suggested with them are Anglers, Eels (Rounded Toothed Eels are ok), Groupers (Marine Betta are fine), Lionfish / Scorpions, Seahorses / Pipefish, Sharks and Rays, and most Triggerfish. Mostly not anything that it will out-compete for food or big enough to eat them.

Feeding:
They could be fed feeder shrimp, Pellets, Brine Shrimp, Copepods, Mysis Shrimp, Flakes, Frozen, Krill, Clam and etc.
They should be fed Live or Frozen to start out if they are not taking the Pellets and Flakes, as you go on they should get used to it and start eating Flakes and Pellets. These are more Crepuscular so feeding near that time would be best but anytime would work Dusk working the best.

Breeding:
They should be easy to breed, the female should go up to the male making a trembling like movement. The male should tilt and this is repeated until the male swims away or opens its mouth. If the male does open its mouth the female will lay eggs for the male to pick up in its mouth, they should produce up to 90+. These are mouthbrooders so when it opens its mouth you can see all the eggs/fry this should last maybe a month. After they are released and should be fed brine shrimp and other things. Also, removing the male is best and after he spits them out you can put him back.

-----------------------------------------------
There we go one down! Anything I missed and I hoped you learned something like I did!
 
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Achilles tang for sure be interesting, always wanted to try one but definitely after some research and hearing people’s experience .. I will hold off on it for a while
I will do Achilles soon but I am going to get the easy ones out of the way first. :)
 
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Green / Red / Blue Mandarin Goby

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 75+ for a good pod supply, not so much size but diet.
The temperature should be at least 75 - 81 Degrees F / PH of 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.023 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 5+ Years / Size: 4 Inches / Cost: $15 - $40 / Reef Safe: Yes

Behavior:
Mandarins are typically slow-moving scanning for food at the bottom of the tank, they tend to be shy and ignore most tankmates it is put in with. It is recommended not to keep males together as they will fight. That is why they are kept solo or in an m / f pair.

Tankmates:
Tankmates should not contain Anglers, Sharks, Rays, Eels (Rounded Toothed Eels are ok), Groupers (Marine Bettas are ok), Lions, Scorpions, Triggerfish, Certain Anemones, Fish that can eat it, and fish that will out-compete it for pods. It can be put with a lot of species but Seahorses and Pipefish are usually best.

Feeding:
Mandarin fish can be fed snails, worms, frozen food and, fish eggs. But most importantly they must be fed copepods, to get copepods and enough to be sufficient you must have around 75+ LBS of liverock. If not then you will have to try to get it eating frozen or somehow supply enough copepods for it to live, this will be expensive and challenging so I do not recommend it. The secret to feeding these is having a large enough tank to support a lot of pods.

Breeding:
Mandarins are pretty hard to breed but, first, you need to get a bonded pair and make sure your parameters are on point. They usually spawn at night and the eggs will float to the surface and up to 200+ Eggs will be made in half of the first day and in a month they should get colors. Spawning can happen every week to several months, but make sure to move them as most fish will eat the eggs.
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There we go another easy one! :)
This is going pretty good so far and I have got tons of info I need.
Also, I forgot to say if they are Reef Safe or not. But Enjoy!
 
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Regal Angelfish
Flame Angelfish
Potters Angelfish
Blue Hippo / Yellow Belly Hippo
Purple Tang
Achilles Tang
White Tail Bristletooth Tang
Leopard Wrasse
Starry Blenny
Harlequin Tusk
One Spot Foxface
Copperbanded Butterflyfish
Flame Hawkfish
Green Mandarin
Banggai Cardinalfish

Orange Blood Clownfish
Marine Betta
Zebra Moray

________________________________________
Still got quite a few to go... Next up is Flame Hawkfish! :)
 
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Flame Hawkfish

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 30 Gallons.
The temperature should be at least 72 - 78 Degrees F / PH of 8 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 10+ Years / Size: 4 Inches / Cost: $60 - $70 / Reef Safe: With Caution

Behavior:
Flame Hawkfish do not have a swim bladder so they must "walk" across the rocks. They may be aggressive towards other bottom dwellers and dive-bomb them, these must-have hiding places and large tanks will help stop this. They could try and eat invertebrates such as shrimp, snails, and etc. These fish like to perch next to corals so they can then camouflage next to them. Also, keeping them in highly oxygenated waters and fast moving is suggested to keep them in larger tanks for a pair, smaller should have a solo.

Tankmates:
Tankmates should not contain Eels (Round toothed Eels are fine), Groupers (Marine Betta are fine), Lionfish, Scorpions, Seahorses, Pipefish, Sharks and Rays. Also, other hawkfish if the tank is small.

Feeding:
Flame Hawkfish will eat small crustaceans, some corals (So they can nip at them), invertebrates, snails, crabs, feather dusters, ornamental shrimp, fresh or frozen food, flakes, pellets, mysid shrimp, and dried shrimp. They can also eat smaller fish in tanks!

Breeding:
Once you have a bonded pair the female will lay eggs and the male will fertilize them. They will then float to the surface where you can collect them and they will hatch in 3 weeks.
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Now I understand why they are $60 maybe the 10+ lifespan!

Who is next? :)
--------------------------------------------------------------
 

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Banggai Cardinalfish

Tank Conditions:

The Minimum Tank size should be at least 30 Gallons but I think a 10 *Could* work.
74 - 82 Degrees F / PH should be 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 5+ Years / Cost: $13 - $30 / They get about 3 inches

Behavior:
They seem just float in place making quick dart-like movements. They are also reef safe and do not eat inverts but are aggressive towards their own kind not towards others though, when the pairing does not work or one is left out of pairing they will flare their fins before attacking, but since there is nowhere to run they are forced to fight. This is why they are usually best kept in a bonded pair or solo.

Tankmates:
Banggai Cardinalfish is good with a lot of fish but of course, there are some fish that will not take them. Some fish that are not suggested with them are Anglers, Eels (Rounded Toothed Eels are ok), Groupers (Marine Betta are fine), Lionfish / Scorpions, Seahorses / Pipefish, Sharks and Rays, and most Triggerfish. Mostly not anything that it will out-compete for food or big enough to eat them.

Feeding:
They could be fed feeder shrimp, Pellets, Brine Shrimp, Copepods, Mysis Shrimp, Flakes, Frozen, Krill, Clam and etc.
They should be fed Live or Frozen to start out if they are not taking the Pellets and Flakes, as you go on they should get used to it and start eating Flakes and Pellets. These are more Crepuscular so feeding near that time would be best but anytime would work Dusk working the best.

Breeding:
They should be easy to breed, the female should go up to the male making a trembling like movement. The male should tilt and this is repeated until the male swims away or opens its mouth. If the male does open its mouth the female will lay eggs for the male to pick up in its mouth, they should produce up to 90+. These are mouthbrooders so when it opens its mouth you can see all the eggs/fry this should last maybe a month. After they are released and should be fed brine shrimp and other things. Also, removing the male is best and after he spits them out you can put him back.

-----------------------------------------------
There we go one down! Anything I missed and I hoped you learned something like I did!
I just added two Cardinals, they have not bonded yet, lot of hiding and chasing. Hopefully soon though. They are eating though. Thanks for the write up.
 
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I just added two Cardinals, they have not bonded yet, lot of hiding and chasing. Hopefully soon though. They are eating though. Thanks for the write up.
Hope it goes good, good thing they are eating! :)
You are welcome anyone is welcomed to use what I am writing here for info!
 
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Starry Blenny

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 30 Gallons.
The temperature should be at least 72 - 80 Degrees F / PH of 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 5 - 6 Years / Size: 5.5" / Cost: $10 - $20 / Reef Safe: Yes

Behavior:
Starry Blennies should be provided with live rock as it likes to perch and graze for algae on them. They can also dig so be careful of the stability of the live rock. They can be peaceful as long as their tankmates do not have the same body types as them. This is why one blenny is suggested per tank and this fish going solo or m / f pair is suggested.

Tankmates:
Tankmates should not contain Eels (Round toothed Eels are fine), Groupers (Marine Betta are fine), Lionfish, Scorpions, Seahorses, Pipefish, Sharks and Rays, and similar shaped Blennies.

Feeding:
Starry Blennies will eat algae off of the live rock and should be fed things such as algae and vegetable-based items. Also, if they are kept underfed they will start taking bites of corals or clam mantles.

Breeding:
Not much is actually known on this as they are hard to raise, anyone breeding Starry blennies would be a lot of help! Thank you!
_______________________
I am really surprised there is not a lot of info on these species even though they are popular...
 
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Leopard Wrasse

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 50 Gallons.
The temperature should be at least 74 - 79 Degrees F / PH of 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 5 - 8 Years / Size: 6" / Cost: $30 - $60 / Reef Safe: Yes

Behavior:
Leopard Wrasse can be kept in groups, but will not nip coral but eating micro inverts is something they will do. They will also dive into the sand it is best just not to stir up the sand, also lids should be kept on as they are in fact a wrasse.

Tankmates:
Tankmates should not contain Eels (Round toothed Eels are fine), Groupers (Marine Betta are fine), Lionfish, Scorpions, Seahorses, Pipefish, Sharks and Rays.

Feeding:
Leopard Wrasse can be fed Mysis, Cyclops, copepods, flakes, pellets, black worms, feeder shrimp and most frozen foods should work.

Breeding:
Little to nothing is known about raising fry in captivity.
______________________________________________________________
Really not that much I found on Leopard Wrasse...
I am also going to be adding a one...
+ Blue Gridled Angelfish
 
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Cool fish coming up soon! Just let me get Clownfish out of the way and onto the One Spot Foxface!!!
 
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Orange Blood Clownfish

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 30 Gallons.
The temperature should be at least 72 - 78 Degrees F / PH of 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 7 - 20+ Years / Size: 6" / Cost: $30 - $50 / Reef Safe: Yes

Behavior:
This is a hybrid between a Maroon and Black Ocellaris Clownfish, their aggression should be somewhere between those 2 species. These can be pretty aggressive so it is suggested to either keep solo or a pair, also can be hosted by anemones netting is not suggested as it could injury their cheek spines.

Tankmates:
Tankmates should not contain Eels (Round toothed Eels are fine), Groupers (Marine Betta are fine), Lionfish, Scorpions, Seahorses, Pipefish, Sharks and Rays, and other clownfish are fish that I would not suggest with these.

Feeding:
They will eat brine shrimp, Mysis, frozen foods, flake, pellets, and they may also eat some algae as they are not just carnivorous.

Breeding:
When breeding they will clean rocks close to the anemone, and starts the rituals. When they are ready they will simply nip the anemone so it reacts and then the female lays its eggs. The male will fertilize them, spawning can last as long as 2 hours+. They should produce somewhere to 1,500 eggs and will hatch within a week.
___________________________________________________________________
These are acutally really cool how they have the size of a maroon and colors of a ocellaris!
 
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Foxface

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 75 Gallons.
The temperature should be at least 72 - 78 Degrees F / PH of 8 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 8 - 12 Years / Size: 9 - 10" / Cost: $40 - $140 / Reef Safe: With Caution

Behavior:
These fish are herbivores and will graze on algae they find, while it is uncommon they could nip on coral. These fish have spines on their back which is venomous and can pierce through your skin and you should find medical attention fast. If not soaking in hot water (Not enough to scold) but you should still find medical attention. Also, if you do get cut get your hand out of the water as fast as you can as it will or can get infected from bacteria. Even though they are peaceful they can be aggressive the first day or 2 chasing others. Other than that they are pretty peaceful and a better option than the yellow tang.

Tankmates:
Tankmates should not contain Seahorses and Pipefish since these are furious eaters.

Feeding:
They should be fed Nori, Vegetable Flakes, and Algae.

Breeding:
Very Difficult and not a lot of knowledge about this.
______________________________
Very cool fish! Anything I missed?
 
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Marine Betta / Comet

Tank Conditions:

The tank should be at least 55 Gallons.
The temp should be 72 - 78 Degrees F / PH of 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.020 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 10+ Years / Size: 8" / Cost: $70 - $140 / Reef Safe: With Caution (May eat small inverts and fish)

Behavior:
Not a lot of people know this but Marine Bettas are not Groupers (I put them with groupers so people get an idea that it is safer), they are really roundheads and have beautiful coloration almost like a midnight sky. These fish are very shy often hiding in caves and rock, this is why most people do not see this awesome fish often. Also, this fish swims very weirdly moving without moving its eyes, this used to trick prey because of the eye like shape on their body just like lionfish using this technique will confuse them and they will attack. This eye will often make them think it is a Moray Eel which is good for technique, they will not touch corals but will go for small inverts, shrimp, and small fish.

Tankmates:
They should not be kept with fish smaller than its mouth and non-torpedo shaped fish, overly Aggressive fish, and smaller inverts.

Feeding:
They should be fed Mysis, Frozen Food, Flakes, Pellets. To entice them to eat you should use feeder Ghost Shrimp, they also might eat small fish, small inverts, and shrimp.

Breeding:
If you do end up getting a bonded pair they should lay up to 500+ Eggs and should hatch in less than a week. The fry will have yolk sacs which will be consumed over a week. It should take almost a year for them to get their adult coloration. Sometimes this is hard to breed but it can be done.
_________________________________________
I really had fun with this one! Hopefully, this can help someone!
 
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Zebra Moray Eel

Tank Conditions:

The Tank should be at least 125+ Gallons.
Temp should be 72 - 78 Degrees F / PH of 8.1 - 8.4 / SG: 1.022 - 1.025 / Lifespan: 10 - 15+ Years / Size: Nearly 5' / Cost: $120 - $300 / Reef Safe: With Caution (May eat inverts some may not, also make sure rockwork is sturdy so it does not knock it down.)

Behavior:
Zebra Moray Eels are one of the best community tank eels and they are very unlikely to eat tankmates as they have rounded teeth. They might eat inverts but some may not, providing it caves is best also have a tight-fitting lid is good so they do not escape. You must be careful because they do not have the best sight and may knock over corals and live rock.

Tankmates:
There is not a lot of things that these are not able to live with, I suggest not keeping with crustaceans. (Tridacna Clams should be ok) Also, small gobies might not work if they are not careful.

Feeding:
You should feed these every couple times a week, these should be fed Frozen food, clams, squid, shrimp, and scallops.

Breeding:
These will breed in warmer waters and they will wrap onto each other for hours at a time. The female lays and the male fertilizes them, young will only be a few inches at best and in about a year after floating they will come back down to live.
 

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Nice work on your Write-ups!! I read them all.. Knowledge is power and all that, jokes aside great job!!
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 44 22.3%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 68 34.5%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 62 31.5%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 19 9.6%
  • Other.

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