Return pumps

[EZReefLife]

What’s everyone’s go to reliable Dc return pump for 100-150 gallon system? I have a 100 gallon IM EXT incoming and one of the things I’m doing from the get go is plumbing in a second return. Ideally I’d like something that’s going to put out somewhere between 2-2500 gph. I won’t be running it higher than 15-1600 I don’t think but I also don’t want a pump running at max all the time ideally I’d like to only be running at 75% of the pumps power.

DC pump recommendations only please and thank you to all who contribute!

Right now I am considering either reef octopus varios 6/8 or a sicce sdc 9.0. Their 5 year warranties make them attractive as possible reliable pumps at least in theory.

 

[GillMeister]

Varios. An 8 might be a little too big though. I would say the 6 is perfect for your tank.

I have a Varios 8 for my 250 and I run it at about 30%.

Also keep in mind that Coralvue doesn't carry parts for the 8. If it does fail you have to buy a new one.

 

[exnisstech]

I love jebao DCP return pumps. The ones I use don't have Wi-Fi but I have no need for that on a return. I run DCP 15000 on my 330 and have a 5000 on my Mariner MP100 that was on a reefer 300. I ran a 3500 on a reefer 170 for 6 years. They're cheap enough I buy two so I have a spare. They're reliable and quiet.

 

[jwaldbusser]

I would recommend the various 6 as well . I went with two various 8’s returns on my 380 gallon system and one more on my mixing station .

I like to get a larger one than I need and the. Back then down to 50-75 % flow .to extend the life . The various are super simple to use with their controller .

Having said all of that, the good old Sicee are really hard to beat . Have two smaller ones in my AIO and I am terrible about chaining them. Just bullet proof .

 

[mcarroll]

Are you going to use the variable speed or why are you spec'ing DC pumps only?

 

[BeanAnimal]

I have had a few Varios die, actually all of the, except the skimmer NW pump.

I have a few Sicce SDC 9.0s that are reliable but IMHO severely overrated with regard to flow.

I’m running old RD3s right now but they are on borrowed time. I will eventually replace them with Deltec e- Flows. They are expensive, but are a different class of pump.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Are you going to use the variable speed or why are you spec'ing DC pumps only?

I can tell you why I run them

1 - soft start.
2 - quietness.
3 - no mains voltage on submerged pumps.
4 - no mains voltage on external pumps.

I ran a ReeFlo Dart gold for 12-15 years, and prior to that Velocity T4 Titanium’s. Prior to that large Danner Mag Drives and an Iwaki and an MDM. The T4s were dead silent but maintenance nightmares. The calcified heavily due to the heat in the titanium volutes. The Iwakis and MDMs were bullet proof but not silent. The ReeFlo was quiet but not silent. The RD3s are silent.

 

[rtparty]

The new Tunze and there is absolutely no reason to run 1500-1600gph through your return

 

[BryanM]

I have a varios 6 on a 230g system fwiw. I like Sicce pumps as well, and you cant beat the pricing of the Jabeos.

 

[mcarroll]

I can tell you why I run them

Likewise.

I recently swapped my broken Mag 36 for a Jebao DCP-20000.

I'll validate that it's quiet. I'd like to have a brand new Mag36 to compare decibel output...mine was loud but had a massively broken impeller, shaft and pump cover. I actually don't understand how that Mag was pumping water at all, at any decibel level. Heroic! LOL

The Jebao starts soft, but I don't personally see an advantage to that.

It's a return pump so there's no value to the speed control. (...or it's a detriment due to the added components and increased probability of failure.)

I don't see any advantage to AC vs DC power in the water. Class II insulation seems to work very well. ⧈ (<- Class II icon)

Power efficiency of DC is overrated...nobody (including Jebao) seems to count the watts used by the power supply brick that gets SUPER HOT. (But I do. The Jebao is more or less comparable to the Mag when you include the brick.)

To the Jebao's credit (and my surprise), the provided flow curve for the Jebao seems accurate, possibly even conservative. (Again I would like to have a brand new Mag 36 to compare head to head with this Jebao.)

The only reason I picked the Jebao (besides the comically low price) is that it's the only other available submersible pump that can put out flow like a Mag36 under the head pressure requirements I have. (And I wanted to try one.)

I won't have a problem switching back to AC return pumps when this Jebao kicks the bucket...but I do hope that's not for a while!!

I'm still curious about the OP's intent for only spec'ing DC pumps.

 

[EZReefLife]

Are you going to use the variable speed or why are you spec'ing DC pumps only?

Because it allows me to oversize the pump a bit to the tank so I will only need to run them at 50-75% without stressing the pump by manually choking flow. That and most dc pumps come with a feed mode button to reduce flow for 10-20 min while feeding fish or coral. Also they’re typically quieter than ac pumps and our fish room is also my wife’s pc game room on the other side of it.

 

[EZReefLife]

The new Tunze and there is absolutely no reason to run 1500-1600gph through your return

That number is the specific recommendation from innovative marine.

 

[n1ng]

I use Jebao without issues. Much cheaper than the rest. You can purchase a backup for failures and have funds leftover.

I would image that when a pump fails under warranty you still need a working pump during the rma process.

 

[rtparty]

That number is the specific recommendation from innovative marine.

That’s an old, outdated myth. You don’t need more than 3-4x turnover with the return

 

[mcarroll]

Because it allows me to oversize the pump a bit to the tank so I will only need to run them at 50-75% without stressing the pump by manually choking flow. That and most dc pumps come with a feed mode button to reduce flow for 10-20 min while feeding fish or coral. Also they’re typically quieter than ac pumps and our fish room is also my wife’s pc game room on the other side of it.

Hm....why would you spec an oversized pump AND throttle it back with a valve? That seems like make-work – creating a problem (too much flow) just so you can solve it (with a valve). ;)

It would be more efficient to spec the right size pump for your specific application. It's more efficient than running a bigger pump slower or throttling with a valve.

I've never used a feed mode in my tanks – corals and fish all seem to appreciate the flow during feeding. But if that's how you're designing your system, then I get it. I would be tempted to run an AC pump and use a controller or timer to implement a "feed mode." A standard appliance timer with a 15 minute "ON" window would do it.....just crank the timer around to the "OFF" position for feeding, leave the timer on "TIMER" mode. 15 minutes later the "ON" trigger will come around and turn the pump, back on. But however you do it, I get it.

At this size, AC pumps are just as quiet as DC in my experience. For example I have several Mag18's (1800 GPH) and they are all dead silent. 24's make a little hum though.

That number is the specific recommendation from innovative marine.

From the IM website for this tank:

Features & Specs

Aquarium:

• Approximately 100 Gallons
• Dimensions: 47.3" x 23.6" x 19.7"
• Solid Glass Overflow DIMS: 15.7" x 3.5" x 5.9"
• Crated Package Weight: 334 lbs.
• Included Plumbing: 2 - NUVO Nozzles [Return] 1- Primary Drain Assembly [Overflow] 1 - E-Drain Assembly, 1 - Secondary E-Drain Assembly
• 3 - 1" Pre-drilled "Bean Animal" Internal Overflow [Primary Drain, Emergency Drain and Secondary E-Drain]
• 2 - 3/4" Pre-drilled Return Hole
• Laser Cut Black Acrylic Weir w/ Slot Cut Rear Glass Panel
• Ultra-Thick 15mm High Clarity Low Iron Glass
• Diamond Edged Flat Polished
• Signature Black Silicone
• Pre-Installed Rubber Leveling Mat
• Recommended Return Pump Flow Rate: 1000-2000 GPH

1000-2000 GPH flow in a 100 gallon tank is 10-20x turnover. I don't know if it's a typo (probably not), but there's no good reason in 2026 to run that much flow through a sump. (

If you were avoiding powerheads and running circulation via the return pump like it was the Year 2000, then maybe....that's how tank flow was done before modern powerheads were invented around 2002. Archaic and probably not what you're shooting for.

Sump flow anywhere rom 1x-4x (100-400 GPH) will be adequate.....but then it sounds like they are supplying the pump, so you don't really have a choice with this tank. (Weird. Will they sell you just the tank without all the extra gear?)

 

[EZReefLife]

Hm....why would you spec an oversized pump AND throttle it back with a valve? That seems like make-work – creating a problem (too much flow) just so you can solve it (with a valve). ;)

It would be more efficient to spec the right size pump for your specific application. It's more efficient than running a bigger pump slower or throttling with a valve.

I've never used a feed mode in my tanks – corals and fish all seem to appreciate the flow during feeding. But if that's how you're designing your system, then I get it. I would be tempted to run an AC pump and use a controller or timer to implement a "feed mode." A standard appliance timer with a 15 minute "ON" window would do it.....just crank the timer around to the "OFF" position for feeding, leave the timer on "TIMER" mode. 15 minutes later the "ON" trigger will come around and turn the pump, back on. But however you do it, I get it.

At this size, AC pumps are just as quiet as DC in my experience. For example I have several Mag18's (1800 GPH) and they are all dead silent. 24's make a little hum though.


From the IM website for this tank:

1000-2000 GPH flow in a 100 gallon tank is 10-20x turnover. I don't know if it's a typo (probably not), but there's no good reason in 2026 to run that much flow through a sump. (

If you were avoiding powerheads and running circulation via the return pump like it was the Year 2000, then maybe....that's how tank flow was done before modern powerheads were invented around 2002. Archaic and probably not what you're shooting for.

Sump flow anywhere rom 1x-4x (100-400 GPH) will be adequate.....but then it sounds like they are supplying the pump, so you don't really have a choice with this tank. (Weird. Will they

Hm....why would you spec an oversized pump AND throttle it back with a valve? That seems like make-work – creating a problem (too much flow) just so you can solve it (with a valve). ;)

It would be more efficient to spec the right size pump for your specific application. It's more efficient than running a bigger pump slower or throttling with a valve.

I've never used a feed mode in my tanks – corals and fish all seem to appreciate the flow during feeding. But if that's how you're designing your system, then I get it. I would be tempted to run an AC pump and use a controller or timer to implement a "feed mode." A standard appliance timer with a 15 minute "ON" window would do it.....just crank the timer around to the "OFF" position for feeding, leave the timer on "TIMER" mode. 15 minutes later the "ON" trigger will come around and turn the pump, back on. But however you do it, I get it.

At this size, AC pumps are just as quiet as DC in my experience. For example I have several Mag18's (1800 GPH) and they are all dead silent. 24's make a little hum though.


From the IM website for this tank:

1000-2000 GPH flow in a 100 gallon tank is 10-20x turnover. I don't know if it's a typo (probably not), but there's no good reason in 2026 to run that much flow through a sump. (

If you were avoiding powerheads and running circulation via the return pump like it was the Year 2000, then maybe....that's how tank flow was done before modern powerheads were invented around 2002. Archaic and probably not what you're shooting for.

Sump flow anywhere rom 1x-4x (100-400 GPH) will be adequate.....but then it sounds like they are supplying the pump, so you don't really have a choice with this tank. (Weird. Will they sell you just the tank without all the extra gear?)

DC pumps aren’t throttled back by a valve that’s AC, they’re powered down(I assume you know that probably just something with how I worded a response). I also like Dc because that’s what I’m used to, all of my Aio tanks run on small DC pumps. And I understand the current accepted rate of turnover is 2-10 times, but on the other hand multiple people run the dc pumps that this tank comes with at max or near max power which after head pressure ends up being just shy of 1500gph for the mightjet xl. When I started this thread all I wanted was recommendations on reliable DC pumps that I can run as a secondary to the mightjet xl for redundancy, not to justify why I like DC vs AC pumps, and because being newer to both the size of this tank and tanks with a sump almost none of the gear I currently use does me any good. And with QC in companies these days just because I’ve had great luck with my small dc pumps doesn’t mean it’ll translate into the larger models. Plus this upgrade has me looking at gear I have zero experience with. So when I said what I was looking to run the tank at, that’s coming from both the manufacturer and looking at what others with the same tank or tanks like it are running their systems at(in reference to complete reef setups purchased upfront). Obviously what I run the tank at may change as I get experience with it. All that said I am firmly on the DC side of gear. Sorry I’m not at all trying to be rude or anything, but this build is a first for me an their is a lot I’m trying to account for and get up to speed on as far as setup, working in redundancies, and what maintenance will be like. Probably nothing to you as you seem like you’ve dealt with sumped tanks for years but I have not.

And while I get your point of basically sizing the pump directly to the tank and just going ac, that’s probably not what I will do. However in retrospect I will agree that I was definitely looking at pumps too oversized for the tank. After looking at it more and understanding a few things better I won’t be going as big as I originally quoted for this thread but it will still be DC because as I’ve said that’s just the way I like to go. I like having feed mode features, I like that they’re variable which most of the time will be set it and forget it but there are a few situations I can think of where having the ability to dial the tank back as opposed to shutting it off or choking it way back will come in handy. Like coral feeding time I won’t have to yank the plug or turn off a WiFi plug I can hit a button or get on my controller app and dial back for a period of time. There’s a bunch of reasons why I prefer DC, I don’t have anything against AC it’s just not the way I go when I can afford it.

I apologize for the long winded response, and if any of it came off rude as it was not intended to be.

 

[EZReefLife]

Hm....why would you spec an oversized pump AND throttle it back with a valve? That seems like make-work – creating a problem (too much flow) just so you can solve it (with a valve). ;)

It would be more efficient to spec the right size pump for your specific application. It's more efficient than running a bigger pump slower or throttling with a valve.

I've never used a feed mode in my tanks – corals and fish all seem to appreciate the flow during feeding. But if that's how you're designing your system, then I get it. I would be tempted to run an AC pump and use a controller or timer to implement a "feed mode." A standard appliance timer with a 15 minute "ON" window would do it.....just crank the timer around to the "OFF" position for feeding, leave the timer on "TIMER" mode. 15 minutes later the "ON" trigger will come around and turn the pump, back on. But however you do it, I get it.

At this size, AC pumps are just as quiet as DC in my experience. For example I have several Mag18's (1800 GPH) and they are all dead silent. 24's make a little hum though.


From the IM website for this tank:

1000-2000 GPH flow in a 100 gallon tank is 10-20x turnover. I don't know if it's a typo (probably not), but there's no good reason in 2026 to run that much flow through a sump. (

If you were avoiding powerheads and running circulation via the return pump like it was the Year 2000, then maybe....that's how tank flow was done before modern powerheads were invented around 2002. Archaic and probably not what you're shooting for.

Sump flow anywhere rom 1x-4x (100-400 GPH) will be adequate.....but then it sounds like they are supplying the pump, so you don't really have a choice with this tank. (Weird. Will they sell you just the tank without all the

Hm....why would you spec an oversized pump AND throttle it back with a valve? That seems like make-work – creating a problem (too much flow) just so you can solve it (with a valve). ;)

It would be more efficient to spec the right size pump for your specific application. It's more efficient than running a bigger pump slower or throttling with a valve.

I've never used a feed mode in my tanks – corals and fish all seem to appreciate the flow during feeding. But if that's how you're designing your system, then I get it. I would be tempted to run an AC pump and use a controller or timer to implement a "feed mode." A standard appliance timer with a 15 minute "ON" window would do it.....just crank the timer around to the "OFF" position for feeding, leave the timer on "TIMER" mode. 15 minutes later the "ON" trigger will come around and turn the pump, back on. But however you do it, I get it.

At this size, AC pumps are just as quiet as DC in my experience. For example I have several Mag18's (1800 GPH) and they are all dead silent. 24's make a little hum though.


From the IM website for this tank:

1000-2000 GPH flow in a 100 gallon tank is 10-20x turnover. I don't know if it's a typo (probably not), but there's no good reason in 2026 to run that much flow through a sump. (

If you were avoiding powerheads and running circulation via the return pump like it was the Year 2000, then maybe....that's how tank flow was done before modern powerheads were invented around 2002. Archaic and probably not what you're shooting for.

Sump flow anywhere rom 1x-4x (100-400 GPH) will be adequate.....but then it sounds like they are supplying the pump, so you don't really have a choice with this tank. (Weird. Will they sell you just the tank without all the extra gear?)

DC pumps aren’t throttled back by a valve that’s AC, they’re powered down(I assume you know that probably just something with how I worded a response). I also like Dc because that’s what I’m used to, all of my Aio tanks run on small DC pumps. And I understand the current accepted rate of turnover is 2-10 times, but on the other hand multiple people run the dc pumps that this tank comes with at max or near max power which after head pressure ends up being just shy of 1500gph for the mightjet xl. When I started this thread all I wanted was recommendations on reliable DC pumps that I can run as a secondary to the mightjet xl for redundancy, not to justify why I like DC vs AC pumps, and because being newer to both the size of this tank and tanks with a sump almost none of the gear I currently use does me any good. And with QC in companies these days just because I’ve had great luck with my small dc pumps doesn’t mean it’ll translate into the larger models. Plus this upgrade has me looking at gear I have zero experience with. So when I said what I was looking to run the tank at, that’s coming from both the manufacturer and looking at what others with the same tank or tanks like it are running their systems at(in reference to complete reef setups purchased upfront). Obviously what I run the tank at may change as I get experience with it. All that said I am firmly on the DC side of gear. Sorry I’m not at all trying to be rude or anything, but this build is a first for me an their is a lot I’m trying to account for and get up to speed on as far as setup, working in redundancies, and what maintenance will be like. Probably nothing to you as you seem like you’ve dealt with sumped tanks for years but I have not.

while I get your point of basically sizing the pump directly to the tank and just going ac, that’s probably not what I will do. However in retrospect I will agree that I was definitely looking at pumps too oversized for the tank. After looking at it more and understanding a few things better I won’t be going as big as I originally quoted for this thread but it will still be DC because as I’ve said that’s just the way I like to go. I like having feed mode features, I like that they’re variable which most of the time will be set it and forget it but there are a few situations I can think of where having the ability to dial the tank back as opposed to shutting it off or choking it way back will come in handy. Like coral feeding time I won’t have to yank the plug or turn off a WiFi plug I can hit a button or get on my controller app and dial back for a period of time. There’s a bunch of reasons why I prefer DC, I don’t have anything against AC it’s just not the way I go when I can afford it.

I apologize for the long winded response, and if any of it came off rude as it was not intended to be.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Power efficiency of DC is overrated...nobody (including Jebao) seems to count the watts used by the power supply brick that gets SUPER HOT. (But I do. The Jebao is more or less comparable to the Mag when you include the brick.)

That’s simply not correct. The DC motor itself is far more efficient than a synchronous or shaded-pole AC motor. Even with PSU losses, the platform is still more efficient by almost a factor of two. A low end PSU and a crap DC pump vs a quality PSC motor narrow the gap, but that says more about the Jebao than about DC. A hot brick doesn’t mean much on its own, either. A sealed brick losing 10–15% of 100W will feel super hot. It is still not “overrated.”

It's a return pump so there's no value to the speed control. (...or it's a detriment due to the added components and increased probability of failure.)

The DC motors itself is typically more efficient, see above. Yes there are losses in the power supply, but those loses aren’t imparted to the water as they are with the losses in the AC motor.

It follows that the value is being able to run an oversized DC pump at partial power. At lower speed, it is quieter and runs cooler. Cooler means less calcification, less total heat added to the water per gallon pumped, less stress on components, and a decreased risk of failure.

I don't see any advantage to AC vs DC power in the water. Class II insulation seems to work very well. ⧈ (<- Class II icon)

That entirely misses the point. Insulation fails, and potting fails. When they do, the difference is exposed mains voltage versus low voltage DC, typically 24V on most DC pumps. The DC side is also current limited by its power supply, while an AC pump has the whole branch circuit behind it.

 

[BeanAnimal]

It would be more efficient to spec the right size pump for your specific application. It's more efficient

The oversized DC pump run at partial speed is more efficient and imparts less heat than the comparable AC pump. The other benefits were listed above.

1000-2000 GPH flow in a 100 gallon tank is 10-20x turnover. I don't know if it's a typo (probably not), but there's no good reason in 2026 to run that much flow through a sump. (

What does the year have to do with it? Powerheads, seaswirls, oceans motions, etc. have been around for decades. Are you saying that my tank is setup wrong? Are you saying high flow closed loops are wrong? I run 20x or more turnover through my sump. Are you saying that I have no good reason? Why is my system “archaic” if I don’t want a bunch of power heads visible in my tank?

Low flow sumps are fine, but don’t tell people high flow sumps are wrong, archaic or have no good reason.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Because it allows me to oversize the pump a bit to the tank so I will only need to run them at 50-75% without stressing the pump by manually choking flow. That and most dc pumps come with a feed mode button to reduce flow for 10-20 min while feeding fish or coral. Also they’re typically quieter than ac pumps and our fish room is also my wife’s pc game room on the other side of it.

Those are all very good reasons. The feed mode is great if you use it. For years I used to unplug the return pump to feed and then forget to plug it back in. It happened so often that I built a feed mode timer.

The soft start is also a huge bonus for me. I don’t get the huge rush of air and water on startup. So no salt creep, sandstorm or sudden jolt to the inhabitants. Just a nice quiet and smooth increase in flow from a trickle to full output over a few seconds.