Rimless hanging over 1.5/16" problem?

Schulks

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I built this stand to fit the exact dimensions of a used IM Nuvo 50 EXT. I got excited with the sander and the plywood top is now a bit smaller on either side but I didn't realize it until after finishing plumbing, leak testing, and moving it to the spot. 1.5/16" on the length and maybe less than 1/16" on the width.
20240423_232126[1].jpg 20240423_232139[1].jpg
I've read with a rimmed tank this is definitely not acceptable but with a rimless I've read some mixed opinions.

All the tiny expenses of this build have added up, between the plumbing, leak fixes on the plumbing, the tools, all the reef gear, etc.
I also put the leveling mat on the stand because I figured that was easier so I'd need a new one of those if replacing the top with something bigger.

Also the time I've put into leveling the plywood top with shims under it and sanding down other high points would need recommitted..
I could buy a 3/4" HDPE sheet thick enough to keep it flat to avoid the leveling. HDPE + leveling mat is another $150...

I think I finally regret buying this used aquarium with all the time I've put into learning to plumb, figuring out how to get my unions to stop leaking, building the stand twice trying to square and level it, worrying about aquarium seams, and other countless things I've had to do... but now I'm just venting x(

Edit: not worried about the chip in this picture. It isn't as bad as it looks and is no where near the silicone.
 
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Schulks

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Thanks, I just sent them an email. I fear they will just say no buy one of ours. lol.
I wish I would have at this point..
 

KStatefan

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I would not worry about it if it was mine. It does not look like the "leveling mat" goes all the way out either so if your top did it still would not be supported.
 
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Yeah, I attached the mat to the plywood and then cut it to the size of the plywood. I would buy another mat if I redid the top of the stand.

I just got a quote for a 3/4" hdpe top locally for $83 bucks. A lot cheaper than I expected.
If you wouldn't worry though maybe I won't either..
 

mfinn

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I would wrap the top plywood with 3/4" thick hardwood trim.
I would use a good wood glue such as Titebond 3 and finish nails.
That would give you 1-1/2" more top space. Give a defined look with trim.
You would probably have to use a good wood putty to backfill between the trim and plywood. Doesn't perfectly plumb.
 

JustAnotherNanoTank

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I’ve seen tanks just like yours be fine for years like that. Even rimmed ones… but remember it’s about your comfort with it. I personally think you are going to be fine structurally.
 
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Innovative marine just responded with "The bottom of the tank should be fully supported.".
I'm going nuts thinking about this so I'm just going to get the HDPE sheet. ugh..
 

mfinn

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Innovative marine just responded with "The bottom of the tank should be fully supported.".
I'm going nuts thinking about this so I'm just going to get the HDPE sheet. ugh..
A little hardwood trim around the plywood edge and you would be good.
 
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Schulks

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@mfinn Thank you but I am not sure I am skilled enough or have the bandwidth to keep learning things. If I did it, I'm not sure if it would fit level with the plywood. Also the corners of the ply are rounded now so it wouldn't actually touch where the aquarium is overhanging.

I am thinking about trying to get a scrap granite cut instead of HDPE.
 

KStatefan

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I am thinking about trying to get a scrap granite cut

If I was doing my stand over again that is what I would do with a trim installed upside down to hide the bottom. I debated that when I built my stand.
 

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