RODI- tds higher output vs input??

[UncommonSense]

Yeah it’s a tds meter that is right before the first filter, and then the out is after the 2nd DI. Correct, first which is just the city water, shows 56, out shows 98 after the di

Okay, let’s try taking the TDS probe tee off the DI outlet, and attaching it to the RO tubing that feeds the DI stages instead!

Let the system run for a bit just making RO water and flowing it past the TDS meter… let’s see what the TDS out of your RO system only is!

This will tell us if the problem is in the RO system, or the DI stages specifically!

 

[Brah02]

Yeah it’s a tds meter that is right before the first filter, and then the out is after the 2nd DI. Correct, first which is just the city water, shows 56, out shows 98 after the di

Okay, let’s try taking the TDS probe tee off the DI outlet, and attaching it to the RO tubing that feeds the DI stages instead!

Let the system run for a bit just making RO water and flowing it past the TDS meter… let’s see what the TDS out of your RO system only is!

This will tell us if the problem is in the RO system, or the DI stages specifically!

Good idea! So did that, it’s at 62 in, 48 before the DI

 

[UncommonSense]

Good idea! So did that, it’s at 62 in, 48 before the DI

Okay! There’s your problem then!!

Your TDS out of your RO should be 1-2ppm tops with 62ppm city water!

First thing to look at would be RO membranes for missing seals, secondarily possibly a clogged flush valve!

 

[UncommonSense]

Good idea! So did that, it’s at 62 in, 48 before the DI

This would explain the rapidly depleted DI resin, which started leeching TDS back out into the DI product water once it got fully saturated…

This is what’s giving you a higher TDS in your product water than your city water!

— I haven’t looked at an RO membrane in a year or so, but I want to say that they have two seals on each end, and one around the fat part of the membrane body!

(RO membranes can also be installed backwards… don’t ask me how I know!)

 

[Tangdora]

1st have you tried flipping the in lines tds meters just to see if you get the same numbers. The in and out number shouldn just flip. If not you may have a bad meter.

2nd make sure your inline probes are the right direction. When the water passes by the prongs should be at a position where the water flows is passing between the prongs. If it turn in a way where the first prong is directly in line with the water flow and the second is behind it. It potentially can give false readings

 

[KStatefan]

That’s just what the guy that made the system I bought told me to do, and there’s a few folks with the same protocol that have posted it online. I had to clean it because I bought the system used and it had sat for months with water in the lines

@Buckeye Hydro recommends sanitizing the system annually. I normally do not do it that often.

 

[Brah02]

Good idea! So did that, it’s at 62 in, 48 before the DI

Okay! There’s your problem then!!

Your TDS out of your RO should be 1-2ppm tops with 62ppm city water!

First thing to look at would be RO membranes for missing seals, secondarily possibly a clogged flush valve!

I think maybe the flush valve was not flowing properly. Would you suggest getting all new filters/di resin?

 

[UncommonSense]

I think maybe the flush valve was not flowing properly. Would you suggest getting all new filters/di resin?

I would suggest starting by cleaning the flush valve, and see if the RO TDS drops significantly!

You’ll definitely need new DI resin, the RO membranes may not be shot though; they’re good for tens of thousands of gallons under typical usage…

 

[Brah02]

I think maybe the flush valve was not flowing properly. Would you suggest getting all new filters/di resin?

I would suggest starting by cleaning the flush valve, and see if the RO TDS drops significantly!

You’ll definitely need new DI resin, the RO membranes may not be shot though; they’re good for tens of thousands of gallons under typical usage…

It wasn’t the valve per se, there was a heavy object on the end of the flush tubing that I think probably caused a backup. Water was still flowing but not full force

 

[UncommonSense]

It wasn’t the valve per se, there was a heavy object on the end of the flush tubing that I think probably caused a backup. Water was still flowing but not full force

Aah! That could definitely do it!

Well, what is your TDS post-RO, pre-DI today with the waste line unclogged?

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Okay! There’s your problem then!!

Your TDS out of your RO should be 1-2ppm tops with 62ppm city water!

First thing to look at would be RO membranes for missing seals, secondarily possibly a clogged flush valve!

I think you mean a clogged flow restrictor (on the concentrate tube). A clogged flush valve would have nothing to do with this, unless that valve was stuck open.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Maybe you just want to give us a call when you are in front of your system. We can cut to the chase and get this resolved quickly.

Russ

 

[UncommonSense]

I think you mean a clogged flow restrictor (on the concentrate tube). A clogged flush valve would have nothing to do with this, unless that valve was stuck open.

I do!

— Since they are part of the same subassembly; I just referenced the part OP is familiar interacting with as the subassembly to be examined for a clog!