RODI Unit Help

CFish4812

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Hello,

I have a 150 GPD water saver RODI unit. It was in storage for 3-4 years while I wasn’t in the hobby. I am now starting again.

I replaced both 75 GPD membranes and all filters. I started making water again but can’t get my TDS under 16-18 prior to DI. My source water is 180-190. The membranes are firmly inserted and there are no leaks that I can see. I have a booster pump and get 80 psi.

I thought I must’ve received bad membranes since my old membranes consistently made 1-2 TDS water prior to the DI stage. I ordered new membranes and installed them a few days ago.

I’ve flushed the unit for hours and made probably 50 gallons of water without the DI stage trying to get the TDS down and hoping that the membranes need more time to hydrate and break in but I’ve had no luck. The TDS actually went up to the 20-25 range.

Did I ruin my unit by not cleaning it when I took it out of storage? Do I need a new unit? I want to start my tank but am concerned I’ve messed up something. It is 0 TDS after RODI but I’m concerned I’ll burn through DI rapidly.

Can anyone help me? I’ll answer any questions or provide more info.

Thank you.
 
Hopefully you get better answers but since you mentioned "not cleaning"...
If you just want to spend some time trying something, you could sanitize the system using Buckeye Hydro's instructions here:
Sanitize RO System

I recently did that (just to do) for the first time ever on a 4 year old RODI unit and noticed a 1-2 TDS drop (after RO membrane) with no other changes and my unit had been running for 4 years, never stored.
*could've been coincidence but maybe you'd actually notice some improvement, dunno
 
Hopefully you get better answers but since you mentioned "not cleaning"...
If you just want to spend some time trying something, you could sanitize the system using Buckeye Hydro's instructions here:
Sanitize RO System

I recently did that (just to do) for the first time ever on a 4 year old RODI unit and noticed a 1-2 TDS drop (after RO membrane) with no other changes and my unit had been running for 4 years, never stored.
*could've been coincidence but maybe you'd actually notice some improvement, dunno
Thanks for sharing. I wonder if I do this if I have to replace all the prefilters again. I hope not. It’s just frustrating. I had no problems at all when I first got started. 1-2 TDS and 0 after DI for years. I had three tanks back then.
 
Thanks for sharing. I wonder if I do this if I have to replace all the prefilters again. I hope not. It’s just frustrating. I had no problems at all when I first got started. 1-2 TDS and 0 after DI for years. I had three tanks back then.
You don't have to replace anything. Just basically remove all filters/media to sanitize and put back after.
That's why I suggested as just something to try if you wanted to.
 
You don't have to replace anything. Just basically remove all filters/media to sanitize and put back after.
That's why I suggested as just something to try if you wanted to.
I did end up cleaning with bleach. I made sure the pre filter section is clean and flushed. We’ll see if it helps at all tomorrow.
 
You water pressure is probably the problem. You that dupon membrane says it only rated for max efficiency at 50 psi.
 
You water pressure is probably the problem. You that dupon membrane says it only rated for max efficiency at 50 psi.
Hi thanks for your advice. I’ve always used this pump with all the old membranes. If I don’t use it then my psi is only 35-40 and I was told that’s too low.
 
I know it sounds stupid, but can you post a picture of your whole unit and show exactly what resins or filters you changed?
 
IMG_4761.jpeg
 
my unit is shown above. I replaced the sediment filter and both carbon blocks. The carbon blocks are 1 micron rated for both chlorine and chloramines. The membranes were also replaced and are DuPont FilmTec 75 GPD in a water saver configuration.

The DI is currently not hooked up while I’m troubleshooting the high tds
 
So where are the other two DI resin canisters lol.
 
So where are the other two DI resin canisters lol.
They’re not connected because the TDS after the membrane using all new filters and membranes is nearing 30. After DI it is 0 but I don’t want to exhaust the DI resin while troubleshooting the problem.

My old membranes were 1-2 TDS before DI and 0 after. There is a big performance difference and I’m trying to figure out the issue.
 
What is your water source? Is it well water?city water? Since you haven’t used this thing for three or four years, I mean to expect the water sources to be exactly the same readings as back then, I don’t know if that’s plausible. I don’t really know that much about the scientifics of it but if you’re reading zero coming out of all your filters with your resins hooked up I don’t think there is much to investigate. The unit is doing its job. Sounds like a change in your source water maybe
 
What is your water source? Is it well water?city water? Since you haven’t used this thing for three or four years, I mean to expect the water sources to be exactly the same readings as back then, I don’t know if that’s plausible. I don’t really know that much about the scientifics of it but if you’re reading zero coming out of all your filters with your resins hooked up I don’t think there is much to investigate. The unit is doing its job. Sounds like a change in your source water maybe
City water that uses both chlorine and chloramines. Yeah I guess maybe something changed that the ro unit is struggling to remove. I don’t know.
 
https://spectrapure.com/products/ch...k3RawjL6NJuTr6Ega9DPoTdOEpJD7Z7bfHHaDk-we21-g

You can try replacing your carbons with a product like this if you are suspecting high chlorine/chloramines. Not using the correct carbon stage can have bad effects on the membranes. Also, where did you buy the membranes? Ive noticed amazon and ebay can carry counterfeits at times and you have to be careful.
I actually only use spectrapure products myself and either buy directly from their website or saltwateraquarium.com when the price is lower.

I would be sure to clean the system and keep an eye on your tds afterwards.
If nothing changes then its likely the membranes might be damaged or possibly not genuine. I would be suspicious if i was getting only 90% rejection on new membranes.

You can also attempt to reduce pressure your RO booster pump. I have wonderful luck with 60psi on my system but i do not use a pump.

Good luck!
 
https://spectrapure.com/products/ch...k3RawjL6NJuTr6Ega9DPoTdOEpJD7Z7bfHHaDk-we21-g

You can try replacing your carbons with a product like this if you are suspecting high chlorine/chloramines. Not using the correct carbon stage can have bad effects on the membranes. Also, where did you buy the membranes? Ive noticed amazon and ebay can carry counterfeits at times and you have to be careful.
I actually only use spectrapure products myself and either buy directly from their website or saltwateraquarium.com when the price is lower.

I would be sure to clean the system and keep an eye on your tds afterwards.
If nothing changes then its likely the membranes might be damaged or possibly not genuine. I would be suspicious if i was getting only 90% rejection on new membranes.

You can also attempt to reduce pressure your RO booster pump. I have wonderful luck with 60psi on my system but i do not use a pump.

Good luck!
I bought the membranes from BRS. All of my filters have been from them and the carbon blocks are their universal 1 micron blocks for both chlorine and chloramines.

I bought some total chlorine strips and I’m going to test after the carbon blocks to see if there is any chlorine. Two carbon blocks less than 6 months old shouldn’t be letting any chlorine or chloramines through.

I cleaned the system with bleach and made sure I disconnected the ro membrane so it wouldn’t reach it. I tested my rejection rates and I’m in the mid 80s which I don’t think is acceptable for a membrane rated for 96-98.

My only thought at this point is that chlorine and chloramines are getting past the blocks and ruining the membrane. Other than that I tested the waste to product ratio and it’s good. I tested each individual membrane and both are giving similar results - 187 tap water and 29 TDS before DI.

If I try spectapure instead I’d need to change the flow restrictor right? Those membranes are 90 GPD and mine are 75 GPD.
 
I bought the membranes from BRS. All of my filters have been from them and the carbon blocks are their universal 1 micron blocks for both chlorine and chloramines.

I bought some total chlorine strips and I’m going to test after the carbon blocks to see if there is any chlorine. Two carbon blocks less than 6 months old shouldn’t be letting any chlorine or chloramines through.

I cleaned the system with bleach and made sure I disconnected the ro membrane so it wouldn’t reach it. I tested my rejection rates and I’m in the mid 80s which I don’t think is acceptable for a membrane rated for 96-98.

My only thought at this point is that chlorine and chloramines are getting past the blocks and ruining the membrane. Other than that I tested the waste to product ratio and it’s good. I tested each individual membrane and both are giving similar results - 187 tap water and 29 TDS before DI.

If I try spectapure instead I’d need to change the flow restrictor right? Those membranes are 90 GPD and mine are 75 GPD.

Have you checked the flow restrictor/flush valve, and waste line to see if they’re clogged up?

You can do this manually, blasting some high pressure water through, or you can do a flow test to compare waste to product ratio! (Ideally do both)

You water pressure is probably the problem. You that dupon membrane says it only rated for max efficiency at 50 psi.

*ahem*

IMG_2423.png


https://www.dupont.com/content/dam/.../RO-FilmTec-BW60-1812-75-PDS-45-D01705-en.pdf
 
I bought the membranes from BRS. All of my filters have been from them and the carbon blocks are their universal 1 micron blocks for both chlorine and chloramines.

If I try spectapure instead I’d need to change the flow restrictor right? Those membranes are 90 GPD and mine are 75 GPD.
You would just need to test your P to W ratio if you change. Are you at 1:1 right now?

what micron sediment are you using?
 

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