RODI Upgrades Needed

[mginster]

In my last ICP I had Silicon, Copper and Zinc at high levels for my RODI water and in turn my tank. I know there is no metal corroding, it’s just a brute with one pump (inspected the heck out of it).

I assume my RODI isn’t removing it all. Would a second membrane or second DI chamber assist the most with Silicon,Cu,Zn?

I know silicon is next to near impossible to remove fully with RODI and it really doesn’t have adverse affects. I am having to clean my glass almost daily now though. It was about 1/week months ago.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

Copper and Zinc is a removed via carbon. You can add another inline. Silica is a DI thing. We have high silica here. So running a Anton, canton then a mixed bed. I run a eight stage, sometimes a 4 stage just doesn’t cut it.

 

[mginster]

Copper and Zinc is a removed via carbon. You can add another inline. Silica is a DI thing. We have high silica here. So running a Anton, canton then a mixed bed. I run a eight stage, sometimes a 4 stage just doesn’t cut it.

I run dual carbons now. Was thinking of getting the dual DI add-on from BRS. Then I can do anion, cation, mixed.

 

[tzabor10]

I run dual carbons now. Was thinking of getting the dual DI add-on from BRS. Then I can do anion, cation, mixed.

Copper and Zinc are the ingredients for brass. Are there any brass fittings? Even a small one can cause an issue.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

What you have should take care of the copper zinc unless it is exhausted. Is the feed to the filter coming from the hot or cold?

 

[KStatefan]

What is your rejection rate on your membrane? It should be removing around 95% of the zinc and copper then the DI the remaining?

I run 4 stage DI it was the easy way to upgrade when I needed for high CO2. Cation-Anion-Mega Max Cap- Endro

 

[mginster]

What you have should take care of the copper zinc unless it is exhausted. Is the feed to the filter coming from the hot or cold?

My Rodi in my garage is coming from my cold supply to my hot water heater. This is all brass connections and could explain it.

I don’t really have a better way of connecting.

I just tested. My tap TDS is 230-260. TDS after membrane is 3. So I have a really good rejection rate. Resin is only 1/3 depleted right now based on color.

Side question without posting another thread. Does anyone have a better connection method than shown here? I have a fear that tubing is going to bust and flood a closet I never go into. Note: I am switching that to BRS tubing soon for more longevity as that cheap stuff I used is brittle.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

My Rodi in my garage is coming from my cold supply to my hot water heater. This is all brass connections and could explain it.

I don’t really have a better way of connecting.

Nothing wrong with that. You might want to put a quarter throw shut off valve there that terminates in a 1/4" compression or 1/4" quick connect.

 

[mginster]

Nothing wrong with that. You might want to put a quarter through shut off valve there that terminates in a 1/4" compression or 1/4" quick connect.

I will be installing an in line murlok disconnect once I swap the tubing to the better BRS stuff. Does that fit what you are stating?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

No... I was talking about a valve like this:

Here's the tubing you're looking for: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/pe-tubing/

 

[mginster]

Ah ok, so what I have before the T, just another for only the Rodi line. I do have that tubing from BRS ready to install.

So I just need a male male coupler to go off the T to the shut off then add my existing compression on the other end.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

My Rodi in my garage is coming from my cold supply to my hot water heater. This is all brass connections and could explain it.

I don’t really have a better way of connecting.

I just tested. My tap TDS is 230-260. TDS after membrane is 3. So I have a really good rejection rate. Resin is only 1/3 depleted right now based on color.

Side question without posting another thread. Does anyone have a better connection method than shown here? I have a fear that tubing is going to bust and flood a closet I never go into. Note: I am switching that to BRS tubing soon for more longevity as that cheap stuff I used is brittle.

That connection should be fine. It is with hot water you can have heavy metal leaching.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Ah ok, so what I have before the T, just another for only the Rodi line. I do have that tubing from BRS ready to install.

So I just need a male male coupler to go off the T to the shut off then add my existing compression on the other end.

You can get the shut off valves in all sorts of configurations - there's a whole section in the plumbing isle at HD full of them.
Those male x male connectors are called "nipples": https://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbin...d-Free/Nipple/N-5yc1vZ1z18i42Z1z114xcZ1z1b2nh

If you need a male adapter with 1/2" threads x 1/4" quick connect rather than a compression fitting: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/male-adapter/

 

[mginster]

No... I was talking about a valve like this:

Here's the tubing you're looking for: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/pe-tubing/

Dumb questions, but do you know of a link for a 1/2 to 1/4 tubing compression made for plastic, preferably an elbow.

I have the 3/4 reduced to 1/2 brass and need to connect the tubing. What I had previously was a 1/4 compression adapter but it is using brass ferrules and I have read you never want to use that with plastic tubing as it cuts into it.

I have this right now:

Everbilt 1/4 in. OD Compression x 1/2 in. MIP Brass Adapter Fitting 800789 - The Home Depot

This Lead-Free Brass Compression Adapter is designed for higher pressure applications. Each adapter will connect 2 pipes of a different size. The brass material is naturally corrosion resistant. The adapter

www.homedepot.com

Can I use this with the link above?

Everbilt 1/4 in. Compression Sleeves and Brass Insert Fittings (2-Pack) 800599 - The Home Depot

The 1/4 in. Compression Brass Sleeves and Inserts are often used between fittings and tubes to help keep their shape. They are naturally corrosion resistant. Can be used with copper, brass, aluminum or

www.homedepot.com

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

How about a poly fitting with 1/2" male threads and a 1/4" quick connect?

Male Adapter

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

 

[mginster]

How about a poly fitting with 1/2" male threads and a 1/4" quick connect?

Male Adapter

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

I thought of that for simplicity, but have concerns over push connect vs compression which theoretically should be a better connection. Since this will be in a water heater closet it wont be monitored like my Rodi out on the wall on the other side of the garage. If it’s leaking I may never know.