Hello…
I have been experimenting with different treatment options for Coral Boring Spionid Worms. I did not realize there was a worm that could tick me off more than Vermetid snails. When I finally kept the Vermetid’s out (100%), I’m so blessed to discover these little devils.
Pic unknown:
However, all is not lost. If they are in the base there seems to be very minimal damage other than being unsightly. I’ve never been a fan of worms or snails coming up through the base of a beautiful acro. It really destroys the pictures. To be quite honest, it looks like crap. What starts as one worm will likely turn into many over time depending on nutrient levels and feeds.
If the worms make it into the skeleton the damage can be much more severe. Over time it can completely stunt a smaller frag or mini colony.
Pic unknown:
Some will quit basing or growing. Others may loose PE. Small frags and smaller mini colonies suffer the most. Large colonies seem to tolerate better or be less affected. It may still slow growth somewhat or eventually stop growth if the infestation becomes more widespread.
I’ve been able to kill them with 1% Ivermectin, but I don’t believe this is a good option for in-tank treatment’s. It’s a bit harsh on some of the biodiversity, but very mild on the Acro’s themselves from what I’ve observed.
A dose of about 6 drops (via 1cc syringe) to 473 mL (1/8th of a gallon tank water) for about 45 minutes to 1 hour seems to kill them pretty well. Great as a dip for affected incoming frags or as a preventative.
—————————————————-
I’d like to move on to experimental Interceptor “in-tank treatments” with “Milbemycin Oxime” only as the Interceptor-Plus also contains “Praziquantel” which I do not think is needed and only makes the treatment more risky. Many have used Interceptor in the past for a lot of different bugs with good success and minimal issues. Of course die off will occur, but there are ways to minimize that.
Here’s what I’ve come up with so far. These are different doses used to give us a better understanding as to what a system is able to tolerate, and where some of us can start. I’m looking for a lower “standard dose”, but one that will get the job done.
Interceptor dose:
This appears to be one of the most standard doses after speaking with many old school veterans:
1 large dog tablet (23mg per tablet) per 400/G.
It’s advised to turn off Skimmer and UV. Remove GAC. Treat 3 consecutive weeks. (Special circumstances and different durations apply to these above. This is not a complete list, or an exact description. These are just general things I’ve heard.)
What does Interceptor kill?
Many Crustaceans such as shrimp, crabs, barnacles, etc. A significant amount of pods may die, but if the dose is standard, people report 50% or less. Higher doses kill a larger percentage. Pods seem to bounce back quickly though. Peanut worms weren’t affected. About 75% of bristle worms may die. Several have claimed all of their blue leg hermits died (remove all hermits if possible). Also consider fish like Mandarin Dragonet’s that rely on pods to survive. Basically, move anything sensitive to another tank that you want to keep, but also to prevent or minimize a nutrient, ammonia, or Alk spike. One guy reported his nutrients dropped (Reef Squad member I believe), but he stated alkalinity remained about the same with no significant impact.
[Caution advised for dose below]
This was a higher dose that was recommended from a fish vet. The dose he recommended was 75mg per 30/G which sounds a bit potent to me (at least to start maybe). He said to leave it in the system for 6 hrs. I think a lower dose would be better tolerated. That’s just a guess.
Other doses:
Red bugs: (1) 23mg tablet per 400/G
White/Gray/Black bugs: (6-7) 23mg tablets per 400/G.
—————————————————
Again these are just some notes I’ve gathered tonight, and I’m looking for any opinions, thoughts, experiences, experts, etc. With your help, maybe we can determine a safe and effective dose that could help us all battle different bugs, worms, and snails. I’m not saying there isn’t one out there or that you don’t have one already, but the doses kinda seem to be all over the place which is why I’m seeking more information and feedback. I’ve already talked to about 1/2 the reefers tagged below, but for those of you I haven’t talked to plz let me know what dose has worked for you or anything that needs to be considered.
Some of these pests will drive you mad, and if you have acro’s. We’re very limited on what you can do as far as in-tank treatments go. I do understand that most pests are best left alone, but these have really ticked me off. So I’m all in now. I want them gone.
So yeah, please let me know if there’s anything you’d like to add, thoughts about dosing, special considerations, etc.
I have been experimenting with different treatment options for Coral Boring Spionid Worms. I did not realize there was a worm that could tick me off more than Vermetid snails. When I finally kept the Vermetid’s out (100%), I’m so blessed to discover these little devils.
Pic unknown:
However, all is not lost. If they are in the base there seems to be very minimal damage other than being unsightly. I’ve never been a fan of worms or snails coming up through the base of a beautiful acro. It really destroys the pictures. To be quite honest, it looks like crap. What starts as one worm will likely turn into many over time depending on nutrient levels and feeds.
If the worms make it into the skeleton the damage can be much more severe. Over time it can completely stunt a smaller frag or mini colony.
Pic unknown:
Some will quit basing or growing. Others may loose PE. Small frags and smaller mini colonies suffer the most. Large colonies seem to tolerate better or be less affected. It may still slow growth somewhat or eventually stop growth if the infestation becomes more widespread.
I’ve been able to kill them with 1% Ivermectin, but I don’t believe this is a good option for in-tank treatment’s. It’s a bit harsh on some of the biodiversity, but very mild on the Acro’s themselves from what I’ve observed.
A dose of about 6 drops (via 1cc syringe) to 473 mL (1/8th of a gallon tank water) for about 45 minutes to 1 hour seems to kill them pretty well. Great as a dip for affected incoming frags or as a preventative.
—————————————————-
I’d like to move on to experimental Interceptor “in-tank treatments” with “Milbemycin Oxime” only as the Interceptor-Plus also contains “Praziquantel” which I do not think is needed and only makes the treatment more risky. Many have used Interceptor in the past for a lot of different bugs with good success and minimal issues. Of course die off will occur, but there are ways to minimize that.
Here’s what I’ve come up with so far. These are different doses used to give us a better understanding as to what a system is able to tolerate, and where some of us can start. I’m looking for a lower “standard dose”, but one that will get the job done.
Interceptor dose:
This appears to be one of the most standard doses after speaking with many old school veterans:
1 large dog tablet (23mg per tablet) per 400/G.
It’s advised to turn off Skimmer and UV. Remove GAC. Treat 3 consecutive weeks. (Special circumstances and different durations apply to these above. This is not a complete list, or an exact description. These are just general things I’ve heard.)
What does Interceptor kill?
Many Crustaceans such as shrimp, crabs, barnacles, etc. A significant amount of pods may die, but if the dose is standard, people report 50% or less. Higher doses kill a larger percentage. Pods seem to bounce back quickly though. Peanut worms weren’t affected. About 75% of bristle worms may die. Several have claimed all of their blue leg hermits died (remove all hermits if possible). Also consider fish like Mandarin Dragonet’s that rely on pods to survive. Basically, move anything sensitive to another tank that you want to keep, but also to prevent or minimize a nutrient, ammonia, or Alk spike. One guy reported his nutrients dropped (Reef Squad member I believe), but he stated alkalinity remained about the same with no significant impact.
[Caution advised for dose below]
This was a higher dose that was recommended from a fish vet. The dose he recommended was 75mg per 30/G which sounds a bit potent to me (at least to start maybe). He said to leave it in the system for 6 hrs. I think a lower dose would be better tolerated. That’s just a guess.
Other doses:
Red bugs: (1) 23mg tablet per 400/G
White/Gray/Black bugs: (6-7) 23mg tablets per 400/G.
—————————————————
Again these are just some notes I’ve gathered tonight, and I’m looking for any opinions, thoughts, experiences, experts, etc. With your help, maybe we can determine a safe and effective dose that could help us all battle different bugs, worms, and snails. I’m not saying there isn’t one out there or that you don’t have one already, but the doses kinda seem to be all over the place which is why I’m seeking more information and feedback. I’ve already talked to about 1/2 the reefers tagged below, but for those of you I haven’t talked to plz let me know what dose has worked for you or anything that needs to be considered.
Some of these pests will drive you mad, and if you have acro’s. We’re very limited on what you can do as far as in-tank treatments go. I do understand that most pests are best left alone, but these have really ticked me off. So I’m all in now. I want them gone.
So yeah, please let me know if there’s anything you’d like to add, thoughts about dosing, special considerations, etc.
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