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I do not see a problem at all in this.If it makes a difference, the stand is for 75-09 gallon tanks. My tank is 30 gallons.
Good question. Yes, I took the doors off temporarily so they don't get in the way while I'm working on the sump.I do not see a problem at all in this.
30 gallon tank will weigh about 440lb (including water, sand, rock, tank, equipment) at the most.
That stand can take that, even if the tank is not in the complete center.
It will be more a visual issue, but asymmetrics has his virtues too. It would leave place to put an extra Two Hearted Ale when we come to visit. Lol
One question, does this stand has doors?
Additional, I like the idea to close the acrylic lid above the filter socks. Overflow pipes tend to create a lot of airbubbles in the sump which will cause a lot of salt creep.Calling all sump pro's.... In need of serious help figuring out drain placement in the sump/filter socks/etc.
Here's the sump.
As you can see I have one drain hole the leads to one of the filter socks. There was another hole for a second drain/bulkhead above the other filter sock but the previous owner of the sump hacked that part off - they said it made sock changing easier and the drain quieter.
I have a red piece of acrylic I'm thinking about gluing onto the sump and drilling a couple holes for the other two drains.
Sort of like these (minus this sock holder part):
Or am I better off leaving the sump as is - not adding the piece of acrylic and leaving the drains unsupported? Would that really make sock changing easier/the drain quieter?
I've never used filter socks before and don't quite understand how they work in relation to drain pipe placement. I've seen sumps with drain pipes terminating inside the filter sock, and some with separate filter sock and drain compartments. I assume it's easier to change the socks without having a pipe in the way or one that needs to be removed every time the sock is changed. If changing the socks requires too much effort, I'm more likely to go longer between changes...
Next, I have to figure out where the second and third drains should go on the sump.
One drain will go through the hole to the sock on the left side. I'm guessing that will be either the main or secondary drain.
For the other two drains, options are:
-Both empty into the filter sock?
-One into filter sock, and one right beside the sock?
-One into filter sock, and one to the fuge?
-Both into the refugium (second chamber)?
(I didn't take a pic of this plan, so an example from google...)
A couple other things to take into account...
Internal overflow box bean animal plumbing isn't setup yet. So the main full siphon, secondary trickle, and emergency drains can be put in any order. Wanted to figure out sump possibilities before deciding for sure on the internal box plumbing.
The main and secondary drain will terminate 1" below the water line, the emergency about 1" above the water line.
Can anyone tell me what to do here?
That bottle is in one of the earlier pictures... and not in the background at all.and wait a sec... how'd you know it is two hearted? it's in a cozey. either that was an insanely lucky guess or a bottle snuck in the background of a photo which is very likely cause there's usually one near by.... lol
Hiding.Look how many brittle stars I found/salvaged from my AquaSD order!
Put them all in my tank never to see them again. I spend a lot (seriously A LOT) of time watching my tank. Are they hiding or dead?
I think you hit all of my question that I had when I first saw the thread.Hello, Your build is looking good, the sump looks brand new and your skill with the drill in impressive. I see your thinking of offsetting the tank, That would be nice and leave room for a larger vase or something, the only concern would be the top sagging over time, is there a cross brace under the center of the top? you may want to consider doing doing that now regardless of tank placement. Is the top MDF or plywood? Im no expert on stands
But @jsker is a Cabinet Maker. The stand is designed to take all the weight on the Perimeter so you may need a little support in the center, what does the #reefsquad think.
Now about the Two Hearted Ale, It may be a Michigan thing but its my Favorite! Following along.
Hello, Your build is looking good, the sump looks brand new and your skill with the drill in impressive. I see your thinking of offsetting the tank, That would be nice and leave room for a larger vase or something, the only concern would be the top sagging over time, is there a cross brace under the center of the top? you may want to consider doing doing that now regardless of tank placement. Is the top MDF or plywood? Im no expert on stands
But @jsker is a Cabinet Maker. The stand is designed to take all the weight on the Perimeter so you may need a little support in the center, what does the #reefsquad think.
Now about the Two Hearted Ale, It may be a Michigan thing but its my Favorite! Following along.
That would be my solution too, maybe 1/2" Baltic Birch ply will be good. Its a quality ply that normally doesn't sag. A woodworking store like Woodcraft sells it. Let's hear from the pro's on this one.The stand is made entirely of MDF.
I'm thinking of cutting a 3/4" piece of ply to size and laying on top of the current top, for added support.
Nice catch.Now I'm not an expert, but I've seen the comment many times that the rubber gasket goes on the non-threaded side for bulkheads. Not 100% looking at the photos, but it looks like it's on the nut side on yours. Apologize if I'm wrong. Just want to bring it up just in case...nothing worse than the slow drip, drip, drip.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/installing-bulkhead-tips.34973/
And good on you with the Two Hearted...my main go to as well!