SCA 90 Gallon "Cube" Build

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Finished the side project...
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DIY canister filter for my pond.
Unfortunately it was an epic fail. The bucket i got didn't have the correct upper lip, and the gamma seal lid popped right off under pressure. Now to see if i can get it apart without wasting all the expensive 1 1/4" plumbing pieces.
 
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Don't let anyone tell you glued fittings are one time use!
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I would't necessarily recommend attempting this on indoor plumbing for a reef tank, but for an outdoor pond where worst case scenario is a small leak will water my plants, definitely worth trying to save your fittings.
 
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Starting mock-up on the plumbing. Putting the massive 1/3 horse chiller in the stand is taking up way too much room. there's not enough room beside or behind the stand, so most likely will build a hanging shelf in the stand to elevate the chiller, leaving room for a kalk reactor and other equipment where it is sitting now.
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Got the shelf made to hold the chiller. Made a world of a difference in laying out the equipment. 3' footprints are challenging...
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Continuing to mock up equipment layout. I think I've got it pretty much figured out. I just ordered the Avast Marine kalk stirrer kit that should just barely fit under the chiller.
The UV sterilizer will mount horizontally under the chiller, sort of how it is positioned in the photos.
The large Avast Marine skimmate locker is HUGE! way bigger than i was expecting, if anyone has the small or medium version they would be willing to trade, please let me know.
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Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions on a better layout. IMG_1290.JPG
 
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My Avast Marine K1 kit showed up today!
This is how the kit comes:
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Everything included in the kit (Milwaukee tools not included)
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In addition to what is included you will need:
Flat head screwdriver
PVC primer and cement
Some sort of semi-permanent glue
 
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Here's how it goes together:

Start by using the provided acrylic glue and applicator tip to run a thin bead in the groove of the base piece, and insert the clear body into the groove. make sure the outlet port is at the top! Run a second thin bead around the outside of the body where it contacts the base.
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Set that aside to cure (sets fairly quickly, several hours for full cure).
Next start on the lid/motor assembly.

Start by screwing the motor to the lid with a flathead screwdriver:
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Next glue the motor shroud to the lid in the same way as the body and base. make sure the small hole in the motor shroud is oriented in a way that will leave plenty of room for wiring.

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Next step is to complete the wiring. Insert the small grommet into the hole in the motor, then run the plug wires through the grommet. Trim off the extra wire on the end of the plug leads leaving around 3/8 to 1/2 inch of bare wire. use the included wire nuts to attach the plug wires to the motor (wiring orientation does not matter).
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Next, using the included zip tie, tidy up you wiring and insert down into the motor shroud. Clip the tail of the zip tie! (one of my pet peeves).
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Next step is to install the motor shroud cover. You want this cover to be water tight, yet removable in case you ever need to service the motor or wiring, so DO NOT use the included acrylic cement. Avast does not include an alternative glue for this. They suggest hot glue, which would work fine. I used a thin bead of RTV silicone:
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Next step is to assemble the stirrer rod. Apply a thin bead of acrylic cement to the end of the rod and the hole in the stirrer paddle. Insert the rod all the way so it is flush with the bottom surface of the paddle.
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Set that aside to cure. Attache the coupler to the motor shaft. there is a flat surface ground on the end of the shaft, align the screws in the coupler with this flat surface, Ignore the holes in the motor shaft. Once the stirrer rod has had some time to cure, insert it into the coupler and tighten the set screws (just snug, don't strip the plastic threads!). I put a dab of the acrylic cement over the end of the coupler set screws and the bottom of the motor screws, even though they are stainless, they will be exposed to kalk solution and could corrode, the cement should help.
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I left about 1/4" clearance between the mixing paddle and the bottom of the reactor.
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Next is to complete the plumbing. The kit includes a 1/2" union, a short section of 1/2" PVC, a 1/2" 90* spigot, and a 1/2" barb to spigot fitting.

First glue the small section of PVC pipe into the threaded end of the union. I use clear PVC primer and glue so no ugly purple or blue shows on the pieces.
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Next is to glue this assembly to the stirrer body. Use the included piece of sandpaper to scuff up the exposed piece of PVC and the inside of the hole in the body. Apply PVC cement to the pipe and the hole and insert all the way. I'm pretty sure the fitting in the body in not PVC so I did not use primer here. Be careful not to get any glue on the clear body of the stirrer as it will make it hazy.
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Next is to install the elbow inside the stirrer. There is a small hole drilled in the elbow, this hole must face up to prevent siphons. I used a small countersink to de-burr the hole before assembly. This piece does not need to be glued, but the glue makes it much easier to get it all the way seated (and it must be all the way seated, or the mixing paddle wont quite clear when you go to insert it).
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Last step in the plumbing is to install the bulkheads and RODI inlet pipe if you have not already.
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And that is pretty much it, you are done, and saved yourself some coin over buying the fully assembled stirrer.
Oh, and probably the most important step, DO NOT glue the lid to the stirrer body, this is designed to just sit on top and be removable so you can add your kalk powder, the system gravity drains and is not pressurized. Let the whole thing sit for at least 12 hours before use.
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Next to my size large Davey Jones Skimmate Locker (looking for a smaller size if anyone wants to trade).
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Just fits in the stand under my chiller shelf. The height of the output is perfect to dump right into the sump, I will probably add a 90 degree fitting here instead of the straight one they included.
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Time for more plumbing mock up.
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Taking full advantage of BRS’s plumbing return policy.
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I think something pretty close to this is how I will end up. Need to call Aqua UV to see if mounting with the lines horizontal is ok, as that would free up some more space. Shooting for about 900 gph flow rate, so I wouldn't expect air accumulation to be an issue. Will switch to the orange PVC, and nice straight runs after I get the layout finalized lol.
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Wish I had a better place for the BRS reactor, but space is tight. Still need to mount my fuge light too...
 
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Working on controller board layout.
looks like I’ve got just enough room for what I already have, plus room for a couple more apex modules. I can already see needing another Fmm.
was hoping to have room for a DOS down the line, but don’t see it fitting.
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Very nice so far. I have a SCA 50 now and plan to upgrade to a 90g later this year. How was it delivered?
 
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Very nice so far. I have a SCA 50 now and plan to upgrade to a 90g later this year. How was it delivered?

Thank you. It was packaged in a sturdy box with about an inch of Styrofoam on all sides, box was wrapped in plastic and strapped to a pallet (see the first few posts of this thread). Shipped via truck freight. I haven't actually taken it out of the box yet, but from what I can see it looks to be in good shape.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

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  • None.

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