No wayyyyy…
That’s crazy. So on my new 380 I was planning on using dry rock (is that the term?) and letting it become “live” over the course of 2-3 months. Better plan? Other suggestions?
Hopefully this sea hare lawnmowers through this stuff now.
I had GHA *bad* last spring. I tried water changes to reduce nutrients, added like $200 worth of snails, manual removal, lighting changes, GFO, and a lot of cursing, Knocked it out completely after adding the GFO reactor, adopting the
World Wide Corals lighting schedule, and scrubbing just about every square inch of rock with a stiff brush. GHA still living in my refugium where it doesn't bother me, but completely gone from the two tanks using the
WWC lighting schedule. Grows very slow in the refugium, and I think the GFO is keeping phosphates low enough to prevent GHA growth.
Currently running like 40ppm nitrates, 0.0ppm phosphates (chaeto using all available phosphates). I test every week, and when GHA was out of control I noticed that I could have as low as 10ppm nitrates and GHA kept growing like crazy as long as I had as little as 0.2ppm phosphates
I'm convinced now that phosphates are the key nutrient for GHA growth; in your case with the CaribSea rock, I would guess that the rock leaches out phosphates, or perhaps the GHA is able to easily access the phosphates locked in the rock itself--or both.
But I think the
WWC lighting schedule prohibits GHA growth once phosphates are under control. It's worth a try if you haven't already.