Sea hare for GHA - last resort

[Devaji]

Use Flux RX and it will definitely fix it.

Flux Rx (Fluconazole) Aquarium Treatment

Flux Rx is an extremely safe and effective aquarium treatment and can even be used in reef aquariums with corals present. It should be noted that if you have bryopsis or green hair algae present in your aquarium, fluconazole can cause rapid death of these algae species as a side effect. Hair...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

I used it 2-3 years back (and added Zebrasoma to keep algae proactively in check) .... 0 GHA since.

always wonder about this stuff. I'll have to do more research on this.
I am going to still ad an ATS.

OP: if you do this way let us know how it goes or what ever you do.
I know there are many many ways do deal with GHA

 

[LMSquire]

What kind of rock did you use for your aquascape?

Have you gotten your elevated nitrates under control?

Hi guys, sorry it’s a busy week with closing on our new home tomorrow

I used Carib sea rock.

The nitrates problem persists. Did a big wc Sunday and need to test again.

 

[BeanAnimal]

So my next move is to order a sea hare, but I’m worried about these stories I am reading where they die and nuke the whole tank.

Any reason why I shouldn’t do this? I have to get rid of this algae before it destroys all my corals.

Because they are very delicate, easily stressed and die and can nuke the whole tank.

 

[LMSquire]

Alright, well, I got one lol. And a nice new torch. Got them from Corals Anonymous. The sea here was alive on arrival, about 3.5”. I drip acclimated for a couple of hours and set him on the rocks. He crawled on a bit and seems to be “sleeping” as I read they are nocturnal. I’m gonna come out and check tonight to make sure he’s not lounging trying to collect unemployment because there’s no free rides in my tank. Everybody pulls their weight to make it a safe and productive community. Wish me luck! And thank you all for your replies! R2R is the best. Please believe you’ll see me whining on here a lot when I set up my 380 gal next month!

 

[slingfox]

Hi guys, sorry it’s a busy week with closing on our new home tomorrow

I used Carib sea rock.

The nitrates problem persists. Did a big wc Sunday and need to test again.

@LMSquire I had a feeling you used Carib Sea Liferock. There have been several threads on this board from people who used that rock and had to fight prolonged battles with the uglies. Reefbum, a YouTube personality who also runs a coral business recently gave up after fighting for 2+ years with CaribSea Liferock. See this video:

 

[LMSquire]

@LMSquire I had a feeling you used Carib Sea Liferock. There have been several threads on this board from people who used that rock and had to fight prolonged battles with the uglies. Reefbum, a YouTube personality who also runs a coral business recently gave up after fighting for 2+ years with CaribSea Liferock. See this video:

No wayyyyy…

That’s crazy. So on my new 380 I was planning on using dry rock (is that the term?) and letting it become “live” over the course of 2-3 months. Better plan? Other suggestions?

Hopefully this sea hare lawnmowers through this stuff now.

 

[slingfox]

No wayyyyy…

That’s crazy. So on my new 380 I was planning on using dry rock (is that the term?) and letting it become “live” over the course of 2-3 months. Better plan? Other suggestions?

Hopefully this sea hare lawnmowers through this stuff now.

If you go with dry rock then I would steer clear of CaribSea Life Rock since there is just too many threads from people fighting uglies 1+ year later. If you want to save some money then you could get a mix of dry Marco Rock plus live rock and/or live ocean sand from a place like KPAquatics or Tampa Bay Saltwater. Then let the dry rock + ocean live rock cook in your new tank with zero light for 2-3 months. I believe that setup will make the tank significantly more resistant to the ugly stage.

My prediction is that your sea hare will not do much for you. I assume CaribSea LifeRock will continue to plague your feeding life. I hope I am wrong.

I started my tank one year ago with just Marco Rock and ended up supplementing with a small order of ocean live rock from KP Aquatics. The live rock from KP has been near bulletproof and much more resistant to the uglies. I will never start a tank without some live rock and/or live ocean sand.

 

[deome]

No wayyyyy…

That’s crazy. So on my new 380 I was planning on using dry rock (is that the term?) and letting it become “live” over the course of 2-3 months. Better plan? Other suggestions?

Hopefully this sea hare lawnmowers through this stuff now.

I had GHA *bad* last spring. I tried water changes to reduce nutrients, added like $200 worth of snails, manual removal, lighting changes, GFO, and a lot of cursing, Knocked it out completely after adding the GFO reactor, adopting the World Wide Corals lighting schedule, and scrubbing just about every square inch of rock with a stiff brush. GHA still living in my refugium where it doesn't bother me, but completely gone from the two tanks using the WWC lighting schedule. Grows very slow in the refugium, and I think the GFO is keeping phosphates low enough to prevent GHA growth.

Currently running like 40ppm nitrates, 0.0ppm phosphates (chaeto using all available phosphates). I test every week, and when GHA was out of control I noticed that I could have as low as 10ppm nitrates and GHA kept growing like crazy as long as I had as little as 0.2ppm phosphates

I'm convinced now that phosphates are the key nutrient for GHA growth; in your case with the CaribSea rock, I would guess that the rock leaches out phosphates, or perhaps the GHA is able to easily access the phosphates locked in the rock itself--or both.

But I think the WWC lighting schedule prohibits GHA growth once phosphates are under control. It's worth a try if you haven't already.