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Looking great. Tagging along.
Really like the auqascape
Nice build!!
You are definitely brave by having your build on top of carpet...
I would run a small bead of silicone around the edge of the starboard to seal it completely. I'm figuring that if water gets under it it could create a dead zone and cause problems in the long runLet the starboard silicone set for 24 hrs with the weight on it and it seems to have set really well. No loose sections. Very happy with it. Pictures make it look grey but it has a nice black color in person.
Drilled out my 10g tank with the ESHOPPS eclipse overflow for the remote refugium. Happy with the kit and super simple install.
Set the finish control board in the cabinet as well. Tough to get good pictures with the cabinet lights on but worked out well. Still have room in front for storage / other equipment and power block mounting behind. Thinking about adding an exhaust fan to pull air out around the power blocks as well.
Waiting for a few final fittings to come in to plumb the return lines up and then we’re getting salty!!!
Yes... haha. The only spot I have carpet in my house is in my man cave but this was by far the best spot for the tank for a lot of reasons. Don’t share your thoughts with my wife either because the carpets brand new... Minus leaks, any other issues with carpet? I have a piece of thick poly, that I already cut to fit around stand for maintenance drips, etc but it’ll be a constant battle I’m sure. Neptune leak detectors going everywhere as well.
I would run a small bead of silicone around the edge of the starboard to seal it completely. I'm figuring that if water gets under it it could create a dead zone and cause problems in the long run
If possible, the flow meter should have a straight run of pipe on each end between the flow meter and any fittings to assure an accurate reading. Not sure if you have the space though.Thoughts on this return plumbing / manifold set up? Any comments for improvement? Tight on space and have to convert to standard plumbing because of Waterbox.
Notes:
- 10g remote fuge and calcium reactor will live directly behind the tank in the mechanical room. Thinking about keeping this feed line 3/4” to allow for future possibilities of adding something else off this. I will be putting a gate valve and 1/2” Neptune flow meter on this line. 1” drain off of ESHOPPS overflow. Should the fuge drain back into skimmer section?
- (2) 1/2” feeds for carbon and GFO reactors will have 1/2” gate valves and reactors will sit in sump or be supported above tank somehow. Going with the Aquamax standard reactors with barb fitting connections for now. Worth just flipping to RODI style push connect now or keep barb connections?
- Will have at least a foot to 16” of flex tubing between M1 return pump and barb return connecting to mitigate vibration issues.
Thanks in advance!
Not sure which model you have, but the newer platinum waterbox plumbing come with a ½ inch threaded input on the return line Tee already. I emailed them the other day and they confirmed the nut is ½" threaded input so you won't have to convert much unless you want to truly run ¾" off your return line.Thoughts on this return plumbing / manifold set up? Any comments for improvement? Tight on space and have to convert to standard plumbing because of Waterbox.
Notes:
- 10g remote fuge and calcium reactor will live directly behind the tank in the mechanical room. Thinking about keeping this feed line 3/4” to allow for future possibilities of adding something else off this. I will be putting a gate valve and 1/2” Neptune flow meter on this line. 1” drain off of ESHOPPS overflow. Should the fuge drain back into skimmer section?
- (2) 1/2” feeds for carbon and GFO reactors will have 1/2” gate valves and reactors will sit in sump or be supported above tank somehow. Going with the Aquamax standard reactors with barb fitting connections for now. Worth just flipping to RODI style push connect now or keep barb connections?
- Will have at least a foot to 16” of flex tubing between M1 return pump and barb return connecting to mitigate vibration issues.
Thanks in advance!
Thoughts on this return plumbing / manifold set up? Any comments for improvement? Tight on space and have to convert to standard plumbing because of Waterbox.
Notes:
- 10g remote fuge and calcium reactor will live directly behind the tank in the mechanical room. Thinking about keeping this feed line 3/4” to allow for future possibilities of adding something else off this. I will be putting a gate valve and 1/2” Neptune flow meter on this line. 1” drain off of ESHOPPS overflow. Should the fuge drain back into skimmer section?
- (2) 1/2” feeds for carbon and GFO reactors will have 1/2” gate valves and reactors will sit in sump or be supported above tank somehow. Going with the Aquamax standard reactors with barb fitting connections for now. Worth just flipping to RODI style push connect now or keep barb connections?
- Will have at least a foot to 16” of flex tubing between M1 return pump and barb return connecting to mitigate vibration issues.
Thanks in advance!
If possible, the flow meter should have a straight run of pipe on each end between the flow meter and any fittings to assure an accurate reading. Not sure if you have the space though.
Not sure which model you have, but the newer platinum waterbox plumbing come with a ½ inch threaded input on the return line Tee already. I emailed them the other day and they confirmed the nut is ½" threaded input so you won't have to convert much unless you want to truly run ¾" off your return line.
This is very similar to what I'm planning for my RSR 425XL (on order). I have the same idea for the fuge with that overflow, too. My plan is to T off the return through the wall to the unfinished part of the basement, then make branches off on that side for a BRS Carbon/GFO reactor & Refugium, but I'm going to add extra ball or gate valves for at least a future frag tank and UV sterilizer. This way I can get at everything and I have alot more room to play with.
I just asked that question about the fuge return in a separate thread today, and i have two votes so far for it returning, if possible, between the skimmer and return, basically into the baffle where there is a sponge/mat.
That's exactly why I asked the same question... do I want pods or microbubbles in the DT?Appreciate it Docta! I was thinking of returning right before the sponge to help avoid any micro bubble issues. I will be doing the same and leaving off a valve for a future UV or other equipment at some point. Much more room in the mechanical room haha.
I found this in a download I had from Neptune. Hope it helps.I tried finding a manual on the flow meter that would suggest mininum dimensions but couldn’t find anything. I’ve installed a ton of flow meters on big mechanical systems for work and there’s always minimim straight pipe lengths before so I will definitely be trying to maximize but space is definitely tight.
I found this in a download I had from Neptune. Hope it helps.