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Nice build! We get our Waterbox 220.6 on Monday. Can't wait.
Beautiful build so far! Look forward to following along.
Thanks for the thread! I'm planning for a 130.4 build as well and this is super helpful. I have a few questions about your build.
Re: your ATO...
How did you plumb your ATO? It appears you have RODI in the Waterbox sump ATO section so are you filling that reservoir from your RODI holding tank every few days/weeks? I was thinking I could put my ATO pump directly in my RODI holding tank and re-use that ATO reservoir in the WB sump for a fuge. Any reason why you didn't do that or why I shouldn't?
- Tunze ATO is mounted on a suction cup stand I got off ebay. Worth the money all day long and the Tunze ATO is by far the best ATO I've ever used. I am using the Waterbox ATO chamber as my main ATO. It lasts about 2-3 days for me but that is very tight. I top it off everyday with a large OXO 5g watering pale and pull over a 10-20g tank in front of the cabinet for longer trips away from the tank. You certainly could use the ATO chamber as a fuge but I wanted a bigger fuge and didn't want to worry about light spread causing algae on other equipment. If you go this route, I would suggest an AI Prime Fuge with the Reefdudez light directors to control the lighting from leaking into the surrounding chambers. See link below:
https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/shop/alv-ai-visor-prime-led-light-shaping-visors/
Re: socks/roller...
What are your thoughts on this with this tank/sump setup? I am not interested in socks as well and short of performing surgery on the sump to fit a Clarisea, the Klir seem to be the only option but the reviews are far from stellar.
- I have been testing a Klir filter roller in the second chamber because I as well was completely sick of using filter socks. With the updated parts / pieces and motors they made to the Klir, mine has worked perfectly. I have the Klir sitting in the second chamber with a filter sock / filter media cup in the front sock chamber and I am getting 4-6 weeks off a roll easily. The front chamber sock / media is just to catch the larger detritus and keep the sump clean so I will swap that out every 2-3 days. If it loads up and overflows, you are adding a small amount of additional water into the system.
Re: flow...
I am considering the gyres as well. How happy are you with them? Do you have them integrated with Apex at all? Do you have them on a battery backup?
- My gyres are used for secondary flow only and for cleaning out detritus below my rocks more or less but I do love them. I run them on alternating ramp settings and run a clean out mode at night when the MP40's are on lower settings. My MP40's are on battery back-up so the gyres are not.
Re: your control board...
I love it, and will likely steal your design! One question I have is how did you attach it to the back of the stand so it stays in place? Did you just screw it into the back wall?
- I attached the control board to the side walls with cabinet door magnets from Amazon. They work perfect for this application. 3-4 of them will hold your control board in place perfectly. Leave 6" or so behind the board for power blocks and wire management if you'd like.
Sorry for all of the questions! Beautiful reef and I'm following for sure!
- Sorry for the delayed response and I am happy to help! Keep the questions coming! Thank you!
Follow the link below for the templates. If you search the Neptune systems site you can find templates for all of their products including the Apex head unit, powerboards, modules, DOS, etc.I am about to embark on my own 130.4 build and thought I would stop in for advice. Where did you get the templates for making your controller board? Also, how many pounds of each Marco Rock did you get?
was hoping this was an option!! Thanks for the through build documentation.Got the final metric conversion fittings in! It’s finally go time on plumbing this tank and getting salty. Bought (1) 25mm and (2) 32mm slip by slip unions and used only the bottom half of the unions to adapt to Waterbox plumbing. Then used BRS conversion fittings between 25mm and 3/4” return and 32mm to 1” for drains.
I was hoping this was an option!!! Thanks for the well documented build.Got the final metric conversion fittings in! It’s finally go time on plumbing this tank and getting salty. Bought (1) 25mm and (2) 32mm slip by slip unions and used only the bottom half of the unions to adapt to Waterbox plumbing. Then used BRS conversion fittings between 25mm and 3/4” return and 32mm to 1” for drains.